What size legs should I put on my welding table?

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Hey there, new to this forum. I'm building a welding table, and I would like some advice on leg sizing. I have bought the table top, got a 1200mm x 1200mm x16mm (4ftx4ftx5/8) sheet off trademe (our eBay). It's good and heavy and should take a beating. I have also bought locking castors (found them before the top, hence my questions) to move it round with, they are rated to 100kg each (220lb). Top is 180kg (400oddlb) So wanted to keep the weight of the legs down, to give me some leeway with the castors weight limit. However id rather build it properly, and if that means finding other castors, I will. My plan for the legs was 50x50x3mm shs (2"x2"x1/8"). What do people think? Thanks Jeff Sent from my GT-I9300 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Sorry it's done smile faces for my typing. Supposed to read 5/8in.Sent from my GT-I9300 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:2x will work for legs, but 4x4 will be much more rigid. It also depends on how much you put on the table. Also be sure you have two fixed wheels  as 4 casters do not steer well.
Reply:Yes, I have 2 fixed and 2 steerable and lockable castors. What wall thickness would you recommend if I were to use 4x4?Sent from my GT-I9300 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:My table size is about 4'x5'x3/8", 2.5"x2.5"x1/4" angle for the frame and 2"x2"x1/4" angle for leg brace/shelf support down lower. I used 2"x2"x1/4" square tube legs, the leg and frame material where left over from a previous project. I plan on making a set of retractable wheels later, so the wheels don't support the table all the time, just when I need to move it. You might want to think about doing something like that so the table sits solidly on the ground when in use, and the wheels are only in use when moving it around.
Reply:4-500 lbs. 2 x 2 x 1/4 is fine. Ever seen 2 drunk fat girls sharing a bar stool ? Attached ImagesBubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Larger diameter legs can be thinner and still carry more weight. Problem is most large diameter tubes don't come in thin walls. Even super thin diameter legs would take the weight. The problem is that unbraced, they will buckle with even a light side load on them no matter how thick the walls are. Larger legs are stiffer and don't need as much or any bracing to prevent buckling.2" should be plenty if built right. My 1 1/2" thick 3'x12' table has legs made of 2" sched 40 pipe. The table alone is over 2000lbs and right now it's got a 1200 lb breaker sitting on it and we've had 1000lb + buckets in addition to the breaker on the table and it's never even wiggled. Key is the legs are heavily braced by the lower shelf..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:My table is almost the same specs as yours and it had 2x2x1/8" legs and works great. Use some corner gussets to stiffen them a bit and it should work. I put a tie tube around between the legs about 1/2 way down to brace them and I wouldn't recommend that. It's nice for some things like hanging tools and such but they are in the way too much.
Reply:I used 14gx2"sq legs on my 3/4"x3'x4'.  Guess really depends on what you are doing.  If you plan on dragging it around the shop without wheels, then go heavier.
Reply:Originally Posted by Burpee4-500 lbs. 2 x 2 x 1/4 is fine. Ever seen 2 drunk fat girls sharing a bar stool ?
Reply:Don't be stuck on the idea that the legs HAVE TO BE right out at the edge of the table perimeter.  welerj pointed out about the "tie tubes" being in the way too much.  A simple re-thinking of WHERE you attach the legs can take care of that concern.With your table dimensions of 48" X 48" you have plenty of leeway to move the attaching points inboard to get rid of the inevitable knee and shin banging aspects of having the legs.....and any bracing...too close to the edge.I suggest you move the legs attaching point inboard 3 inches on all sides.  Then brace the legs using an "H" shaped pattern about half way down each leg.This configuration will keep your knees and shins away from the bangers. Attached Images
Reply:2 x 3 x 1/8" wall worked well for me with minimal bracing.Gizzmo Attached ImagesSyncrowave 250 CK aircooled tig
Reply:leg size  0,7 x 3 mm = 2.1 mm   2,1 x 1,4 = 2,94 mm   4mm is good
Reply:Originally Posted by denlow60leg size  0,7 x 3 mm = 2.1 mm   2,1 x 1,4 = 2,94 mm   4mm is good
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldDon't be stuck on the idea that the legs HAVE TO BE right out at the edge of the table perimeter.  welerj pointed out about the "tie tubes" being in the way too much.  A simple re-thinking of WHERE you attach the legs can take care of that concern.With your table dimensions of 48" X 48" you have plenty of leeway to move the attaching points inboard to get rid of the inevitable knee and shin banging aspects of having the legs.....and any bracing...too close to the edge.I suggest you move the legs attaching point inboard 3 inches on all sides.  Then brace the legs using an "H" shaped pattern about half way down each leg.This configuration will keep your knees and shins away from the bangers.
Reply:Originally Posted by gizzmo2 x 3 x 1/8" wall worked well for me with minimal bracing.Gizzmo
Reply:Originally Posted by Burpee4-500 lbs. 2 x 2 x 1/4 is fine. Ever seen 2 drunk fat girls sharing a bar stool ?
Reply:If you consider that around 95% or so of the total weight will be confined inside of a 45" X45" square (except for the meager offset due to 2 swivel caster wheels) you will not have any inherent loss of stability at all by moving the legs in 50mm or 75mm.In fact, you would actually have a hard time tipping it at all, let alone worry about it falling over.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jeff McDonaldSorry want dies this mean? Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
Reply:Just like to thank everybody body that suggested ideas for my welding table. Ended up with 50x50x4mm legs and body, 16mm top, castor wheels(although I think they may need replacing at some stage as they may be a bit light, and detachable vice/other tools when I get them that I can make adaptor to connect them in too. Total finished weight with vice is 270kg. Cheers guys!  Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk Attached ImagesUsing Tapatalk
Reply:That looks good. I really like the removable vice. I'm in the process of building mine right now. I have everything but the top. I plan on using channel iron like the one posted above but so far I haven't found a decent deal on any.
Reply:Thanks. I'm a farmer, so the table will get used for a lot more than just welding, hence the removable vice. I'd like to get a drop saw and make it so it sis flush with the table and hook in where the vice goes, so can have a good works space around the saw. Good luck with finding the channel steel mate.  Sent from my GT-I9300 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk