Hose about to burst on wp20 tig torch?

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Today at work I stripped off the black tape I had wrapped around the bottom of my torch handle and the hoses. I was a bit surprised to see the red coolant hose had a bit of a bulge in it.  I taped it back up good and tight but I am wondering if there is a fix for this, other then ordering a whole new torch and hoses. I don't see any screws or anything holding the torch together. I am gonna put in a request for a new set just to have a backup anyway. But kinda wanna avoid having downtime just in case it decides to blow, say tomorrow (which is usually my luck )If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:the   handle   should  screw   or   pull  off the   torch  ,  and  thats  were  the power  lead is attached to the   torch .      pretty  sure ur gonna need a new   line.>Innovations are what i leave behind for History
Reply:There may be some variation with different brands, but on the WP-20 models I've seen, the hoses (two coolant, one with internal conductor, one gas) are removable and can be purchased separately. I'd guess that hose has been locally overheated and is the one with the lead inside; it probably has been used without enough coolant, or perhaps the conductor is just getting old and the wires have begun to seperate, causing localized higher resistance there.
Reply:So is your red coolant hose a power cable line or just coolant hose. I think the red fabric must have worn thru and the amber rubber hose is bulging from what you describe. In a pinch you could wrap the bulge area in cloth backed tape and then some self fusing silicon tape. That will hold back the bulge.You really should look at spare hoses too. Or even a complete torch, as you get a spare of everything. At some time or another a hose failure is going to happen.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Emergency repair kit for anything that is bulging, leaking or whatever.Get an old truck inner tube and cut it up into strips. One inch is great but can make them various. Temporary repair wrap and pull that sucker to good tension and wrap a bunch of times. Then can finish off with some duct or electrical tape just to hold it from coming off.Also use it for glue ups on wood working projects, in your car, hold anything that is irregular. Zillion uses and usually pretty much free. I've even used it to fix the leaking olde lead main water service from the street in some houses. Telling the guy, now that is temporary until you get them to come and change the whole service. Find out later the guy still ain't done nothing more after years of being wrapped.Pretty much a must have stuff for the toolbox. Only limited by your imagination. Don't conduct electricity either. Some of that rubber roofing stuff can also be used, I sort of tended to like the inner tube deal.
Reply:Make sure that the return water line is not plugged. Check the large brass connector that the power cable connects to, unscrew it and look for small bits of copper in the water passage. I believe the power lead is a return line for the coolant, so if it's plugged up in the block it will heat up and the hose will swell til it bursts. Believe half of what you read and none of what you hear.
Reply:Hey thanks for the replies guys. CosmicRambler thats a great trick with the intertube, have to store that in the back of my brain, may come in handy someday.I finally got some time today to work on it. The handle does just unscrew from the torch body. I simply cut the lines back about 12" and reattached them to the body. The red hose IS the power lead and has a copper cable inside the hose that connects to a crimped fitting the screws into the torch body. I  did have a bit of a time GENTLY undoing that to recrimp the cable. I also pulled the hose cover up and ziptied it to the handle so maybe it wont wear again.If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:The mesh outer liner is required to withstand pressure; it needs to be crimped under the ferrule (or whatever style termination).Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Originally Posted by MikeGyverThe mesh outer liner is required to withstand pressure; it needs to be crimped under the ferrule (or whatever style termination).