LN-25 wiring

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I'm hooking up my LN-25 temporarily to my DialArc 250.  In the picture, the black arrow points to an electrical spade that was open so I put the ground clip lead on itas shown in the picture.  There is an additional wire with a female spade end coming frombelow as pointed out by the red arrow.  What is this wire and where does it go? Attached Images
Reply:I have two LN25s, one with a contactor and one without. The feeder without a contactor has that wire and it is plugged in to the polarity switch where you have the black wire numbers 67. The feeder with a contactor doesn't have that wire. It has a wire from the contactor to that position on the polarity switch.Looks like it's a sensor to ensure the polarity is set correctly. If the black wire marked 67 is connected to your contactor, you should be good to go.Weller 15W
Reply:If the blue wire 67 is connected to the brass gun block and the black wire 67 is connected to the input side of the contactor. Then your LN-25 is wired right. The blue 67 is there because your LN-25 came from the factory with out a contactor and a contactor kit was added later.When I put in a contactor kit I always remove blue 67 to prevent These kind of problems.So just tuck it down behind out of sight.On a CC (stick) welder you can only do larger wire flux core welding. It will not do 035 short arc with gas. You will be fighting it to get a good weld. On a CV (mig) welder It will just about any type of wire and size, Just change the drive roll and gun.
Reply:Got the LN-25 working very nicely when powered by my Dialarc using CC mode.It ran .035 and .045 fluxcore both great, I didn't attempt solid wire/gas.When hooked to my SAM-400, not so good.  The SAM has a toggle switch wired into activate the contactor.  When idling, the contactor magnet vibrates/bounces on and off, but when the SAM is revved to full power, the toggle switch snaps the contactor magnet shut and hold it solid.  That seems to be working as it should.  My LN-25 has its own contactor.This was the result:  LN-25 was set to CV mode, SAM set to 16-MAX arc volts, CV control to 4.5.  Of course nothing at all happens unless everything is set to CV, and the connections are secure.The voltmeter on the LN-25 is immediately pegged to the max as soon as the contactor on the SAM is closed, but the wire/torch is not hot until the trigger on the gun is pulled.  Thenit's nearly an explosion!The second attempt resulted in the diffuser being welded to the gun liner.  The literature from Lincoln doesn't address anything like this, and actually is fairly scant on both the LN-25 and the SAM-400 when it comes to using them in combination. Attached Images
Reply:I can't see your "lo High" switch, but if you have .045 flux cored wire in the LN-25, your feed it WAY too slow for where the power supply is set.I would try turning the CV to low on the welder and the feed to 1/2 way up on the wire feeder to see if you get any different results.The volt meter on the LN-25 is only good when you are welding.  Have some one read it and try to match the specs for the wire.I have 2 of those feeders and always ran them with a hot electrode.   It worked for me.DavidLast edited by David R; 11-13-2011 at 07:41 AM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:the foto of the gun tip reminds me of my tig torch when i went to tig some steel hooked up electrode +...blew the snot out of the ceramic gas cup...