amperage control?

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I have a problem. I have a Lincoln 250 idealarc welder and I want to tig weld some 23 gauge stainless for a maple syrup evaporator. I have a problem getting it turned down far enough. I was just wondering if I hooked up a light bulb to my leads where they come out of the welder to use up some of the amperage if it would work? Harold
Reply:I didnt think I had ask a question that was so far out or so hard for so many on the forum here.
Reply:I'd try an old electric heater before a light bulb, but either way it probably ain't right.
Reply:Thanks that is another possibility. Thanks
Reply:You would definitely have to hook it in on parallel (across) the the output lugs.Series would use up voltage.  (I am not sure which you were picturing. I mention it for completeness)I really like the heater idea because, if you get one with a coiled heater wire (rather than a ceramic heater), you can use some suitable hookup cables at various points along the heater wire and use that to adjust the leakage current (amps).  You could possibly even start with it bleeding more current than you want, an then you can use the pedal to increase the heat as necessary.Be careful not to over heat the heater wire, definitely disconnect the fan and power it separately so that the heater wire continues to have air cooling or you will probably melt it.In any event, exercise all due caution."Great spirits have always encountered violent oppostion from mediocre minds."  --  Albert Einstein
Reply:I found a large reostat I put in series on one of my machines..  It worked the balls.  I had a hose clamp I could slide along to change the resistance.  Now I have machines with foot pedal.  Can you silver solder the pan?  You should only need 20 amps or so.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Here is a quick and dirty way to drop the amps. Dropper resistor trick for CC constant current machines only! You need to use a dropper resistor made from a piece of 3/32" or 1/8" filler rod, depending on the amount of amps you want to drop. Attach the 1/8" filler rod to the welding bench with a vise-grip and let it hang vertical then attach the ground clamp to the other end of the filler rod. As the arc is established the filler rod (dropper resistor) will begin to heat thus lowering out-put amps at the torch / stinger. CAUTION as the filler rod can become cherry red depending on the amount of amps being dropped. To adjust for the correct amount of amps required of the weldment, one could trim the filler rod to different lengths or change the diameter although I've never found this to be necessary.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:CEP... what?!The fill rod is in series, it cannot drop amps.Everything in a series sees the exact number of amps as anything else in the series.I'm not saying the process you describe won't work, just that it doesn't work by dropping amps.It will drop voltage, and that will reduce the maximum arc gap you can maintain before the arc goes out."Great spirits have always encountered violent oppostion from mediocre minds."  --  Albert Einstein
Reply:Good one!   I never heard of the "Drop" thing.  I agree the current is the same through out the series circuit, but the resistor I used worked an I was welding cheap THIN aluminum.  It worked  Small enough arc still control.I have no picture of my resistor, I gave it to my dad when I bought an Arcmaster 185.  It was a cermaic center with coils wound around it like this    //////////////////////////   Wire hooked to one end and a hose clamp slid along the middle.  I got these resistors from old electric fork lifts.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by WelderskelterI have a problem. I have a Lincoln 250 idealarc welder and I want to tig weld some 23 gauge stainless for a maple syrup evaporator. I have a problem getting it turned down far enough. I was just wondering if I hooked up a light bulb to my leads where they come out of the welder to use up some of the amperage if it would work? Harold
Reply:I have talked to an old timer who claimed that he used a long strip of stainless steel as a resistor in parallel.  Stainless has more electrical resistance and can take more heat without melting/breaking.  I notice my old Hobart portable has flat stainless strip coils about 12 inches high and 3 inches in diameter.  A repair guy told me that when those finally fail I might as well chuck the old machine because parts not available.  Really I think silver brazing that light stainless might be the way to go.
Reply:Originally Posted by razerCEP... what?!The fill rod is in series, it cannot drop amps.Everything in a series sees the exact number of amps as anything else in the series.I'm not saying the process you describe won't work, just that it doesn't work by dropping amps.It will drop voltage, and that will reduce the maximum arc gap you can maintain before the arc goes out.
Reply:OK, you want me to change amps to heat? Or voltage? Sorry for not being 100% correct. I just thought the guy wanted some help. Oh did I miss spell any words too?
Reply:Originally Posted by farmall I don't care if it works in practice, I want to see it work in theory!
Reply:u should not have to hook anything up to get the right amperage.just a few test pieces to set the amperage right...bbuuttt ..in looking up the specs for that machine it has a minimum output of 40amps on DC...so u really cant weld 23ga anything with it without it being extremely frustrating...http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...053-9/e270.pdf
Reply:I appreciate the help guys. I will experiment more maybe tomorrow. Was thinking about hooking up an electric stove element also to try to cut it down too. Thanks
Reply:Try a light bulb.  What's it gonna cost anyway?My welding instructor gave me a Lincoln 225-AC for free.  When he showed it to me he had it hooked up to a light bulb of all things.  Showed me the switch worked on on all range settings.  The bulb changed light intensity with each switch setting.   It did not burn out and was lit even on the lowest setting.Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:see nest messageLast edited by con_fuse9; 11-28-2011 at 09:02 PM.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:Originally Posted by WelderskelterI appreciate the help guys. I will experiment more maybe tomorrow. Was thinking about hooking up an electric stove element also to try to cut it down too. Thanks