Total Noob Here...

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Hey guys, new member here with zero metalworking experience. I first got interested in welding when a friend of mine who welds professionally was telling me about his 3 month long work trip to Minnesota. I thought "This might be a cool thing to learn", so I started watching MIG lessons on YouTube and got hooked on them since. I don't really see myself welding professionally, I've got enough on my plate with graduate school. Whatever I'd do it would be mostly weekend projects, home repair, basic fabrication, etc. I'm pretty set on getting a Miller 211, along with a Miller 625 X-treme. I think they strike a perfect balance between performance and what my 8000W generator can actually handle. If anyone thinks this is a bad combo, speak up  What I can't seem to find though, is a cart that can hold both of these at the same time. I saw the multi-unit cart from Eastwood but I have no way of telling if it'd work without actually buying it, and Miller wants $600+ for theirs... Any suggestions or tips regarding a cart are appreciated.
Reply:Welcome to the family. Welding advice and experience are not me. However, there are tons of guys/gals here that can weld in their sleep and do a very professional job while doing so. Forget buying a cart.... Build one... Don't like it, cut it apart and rebuild it. Sooner or later, you will have the cart that is perfect for you. Search this forum for ideas. People here have wicked skills. Maybe some of them will rub off on me.... Maybe not. However, I am learning a lot and collecting a lot of design ideas just from reading this forum.Again, welcome to the group!!!Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkQualified & experienced at welding scrap metal
Reply:Those machines will handle any job most hobbyists will show them without even breaking a sweat. I have a spectrum 375X and its awesome. Can't speak on the 211 cause I've never used one. My .02, you can do a huge amount of garage work with some hand tools an angle grinder and a used lincoln sp175 or miller mm180 or similar. And you will save yourself probably a grand or more. Also, an O/A setup is a nice alternative to a plasma cutter as it's way more versatile, more portable and less expensive.An O/A is good for welding, brazing, cutting, heating material, etc etc. vs just cutting with the plasma. For "general" fabrication and weld repair a O/A setup is great tool to have on hand. If you know what you are going to be cutting and a PC is the best tool for the job then it's a no-brainer Also, using a genny for power and an electric air compressor with your plasma then amp draw becomes an issue. EX: A/C 7A@240V= 1680W P/C 27A@240V(rated load)=6480WThat's 8160W, more than a 8kw gen can handle. Just my thoughts. Welcome to the forum
Reply:Under no circumstance will you "buy" a welder cart. You will build this Young Jedi. In the meanwhile beat down a homeless person, take his grocery cart and dump his schitt. Put you welder in that until you.......... get ready for it......................build your own.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:Originally Posted by rgfab242Those machines will handle any job most hobbyists will show them without even breaking a sweat. I have a spectrum 375X and its awesome. Can't speak on the 211 cause I've never used one. My .02, you can do a huge amount of garage work with some hand tools an angle grinder and a used lincoln sp175 or miller mm180 or similar. And you will save yourself probably a grand or more. Also, an O/A setup is a nice alternative to a plasma cutter as it's way more versatile, more portable and less expensive.An O/A is good for welding, brazing, cutting, heating material, etc etc. vs just cutting with the plasma. For "general" fabrication and weld repair a O/A setup is great tool to have on hand. If you know what you are going to be cutting and a PC is the best tool for the job then it's a no-brainer Also, using a genny for power and an electric air compressor with your plasma then amp draw becomes an issue. EX: A/C 7A@240V= 1680W P/C 27A@240V(rated load)=6480WThat's 8160W, more than a 8kw gen can handle. Just my thoughts. Welcome to the forum
Reply:You'll need an air compressor that puts out a bare minimum of 5 SCFM for the 375.   Get your garage hardwired for 240v.  Running a ( ( ( L O U D ) ) ) genny in a neighborhood is a RPITA.  Definitely BUILD your own cart.  Don't buy some piece of crap.  Keep it on a temporary table or floor until you get your first project (cart) built.  If you need to, buy a $10.00 harbor freight wood framed furniture dolly and set the MM211 on that for the time being.  Welcome to the forums.  Originally Posted by rgfab242P/C 27A@240V(rated load)=6480W. That's 8160W, more than a 8kw gen can handle.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcYou'll need an air compressor that puts out a bare minimum of 5 SCFM for the 375.   Get your garage hardwired for 240v.  Running a ( ( ( L O U D ) ) ) genny in a neighborhood is a RPITA.  Definitely BUILD your own cart.  Don't buy some piece of crap.  Keep it on a temporary table or floor until you get your first project (cart) built.  If you need to, buy a $10.00 harbor freight wood framed furniture dolly and set the MM211 on that for the time being.  Welcome to the forums.
Reply:Go to your local metal supplier and buy some small hunks of scrap metal to practice on. They usually sell the scrap by the pound or based upon weight. Once you get into welding, you will find an excuse to weld everything you can get your hands on (LOL). Your friends will bring you their broken junk and ask you to weld it back together. It's good practice, doesn't cost you much, and it helps a friend... Everyone will be Happy, Happy, Happy :-)Do a search on this forum for cart ideas. There have been some totally awesome builds posted hear. Steal the basic idea, then add your personal touch to it. As you use the cart, you will probably add to it. It will evolve to meet your needs and desires. Take lots of photos, keep them in a photo album so you can see your progress as a weekend welder, as well as how the size and scope of your projects change over time. Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkQualified & experienced at welding scrap metal
Reply:Hello and welcome.When you get a minute, go to the top of the page and enter your location in your profile so we always know where you are at. The instructions are stickied in the Forum Support section. You may be surprised to find someone local who is willing to help you learn..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by little JeepGo to your local metal supplier and buy some small hunks of scrap metal to practice on. They usually sell the scrap by the pound or based upon weight. Once you get into welding, you will find an excuse to weld everything you can get your hands on (LOL). Your friends will bring you their broken junk and ask you to weld it back together. It's good practice, doesn't cost you much, and it helps a friend... Everyone will be Happy, Happy, Happy :-)Do a search on this forum for cart ideas. There have been some totally awesome builds posted hear. Steal the basic idea, then add your personal touch to it. As you use the cart, you will probably add to it. It will evolve to meet your needs and desires. Take lots of photos, keep them in a photo album so you can see your progress as a weekend welder, as well as how the size and scope of your projects change over time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:All kinds of options on handles. They don't have to be rounded. Several guys have done square cornered handles using mitered corners, or "bends" having 45 deg corners.If you know an electrician, they probably have a bender that will do heavy wall 1/2" or 3/4" conduit. You can also buy "sweeps" made out of heavy wall electrical conduit, but most are galvanized, so be sure and grind off the galvi really well and weld outside as well as keeping your head out of the fumes or wearing a respirator.1/2" pipe ( either heavy wall electrical conduit or water pipe), can be bent by hand if you have something solid to bend it around. I've seen guys use an old truck rim as a die for bending, or even a tree. You can also do it with a smaller radius "bender" if you "bump" it. Rather than do the whole bend in one shot, make a series of small bends in a line so if forms the radius you want..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcThe 375 Xtreme only draws 13.6A on a 240v circuit.  (240v x 13.6A = 3,264W).
Reply:Originally Posted by rgfab242The OP's question was regarding the power consumption of the 675. Which is 27a on 240v @ rated load.
Reply:They do that because the 6-50 is the "standard" 230v plug for most welders and plasmas that are not direct wired. It won't hurt the machine to plug it into a 50 amp circuit since the breaker is there just to protect the wall wires.  You can simply build your own adapter as that's what the majority of guys do. All you need is the correct plug for the genny, a 6-50 outlet and a length of cord of at least 10 ga with 3 wires, 2 hot and a ground. There's a thread here on building your own 230v extension cord that covers the basics pretty well. All you are really doing is building a short extension cord to match both ends to what is needed..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by kestrel452That doesn't sound like a bad idea at all! How much does a few pieces of scrap cost? --Snip--
Reply:As for the palsma vs. the torch, Measure with a micrometer, mark it with a soapstone, cut with a gas axe. There is more to know about plasma than o/a learn with the simple things. Then spend money on extras. Swanny
Reply:Originally Posted by rgfab242The OP's question was regarding the power consumption of the 675. Which is 27a on 240v @ rated load.
Reply:I have a question about pulling versus dragging a MIG gun. In a lot of the videos on Youtube I've seen, people have claimed dragging the tip offers more heat and better penetration. However, after reading the comments on this video (), one person claiming to be an almost 20 year welding veteran emphatically proclaimed that one should *never* drag a MIG gun. I was also under the impression that you should do a lower case 'e' or 'u' pattern with the gun, but that video says to just go straight or just waver slightly side to side. After watching ChuckE2009's strength test of pulled versus dragged welding I'm inclined to believe that pulling is indeed incorrect.Sorry for the catch-all question I'm about to ask, but...what exactly is right and wrong here??? I don't think any video has made trying to learn MIG welding more intimidating than that video I just linked... Short circuit, globular, spray, argon mix, argon rich, beveling, etc....what a huge jump from all the other lessons I've watched!Last edited by kestrel452; 01-10-2014 at 01:04 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by kestrel452I have a question about pulling versus dragging a MIG gun. In a lot of the videos on Youtube I've seen, people have claimed dragging the tip offers more heat and better penetration. However, after reading the comments on this video (watch?v=5mcTl0VrvWQ), one person claiming to be an almost 20 year welding veteran emphatically proclaimed that one should *never* drag a MIG gun. I was also under the impression that you should do a lower case 'e' or 'u' pattern with the gun, but that video says to just go straight or just waver slightly side to side. After watching ChuckE2009's strength test of pulled versus dragged welding I'm inclined to believe that pulling is indeed incorrect. Sorry for the catch-all question I'm about to ask, but...what exactly is right and wrong here???
Reply:Fired up my Millermatic 211 for the first time ever today and decided to try and lay some beads. My first beads were terrible. At first I had no idea what the heck was going wrong, but then I tried putting the ground clamp directly on the piece being welded and suddenly it started going much better. My beads are still all over the place, but the nice shiny ones in the middle are the ones i laid after i figured out merely attaching the clamp to the welding table didn't make a good enough ground... Any comments are welcome. What you're going to see below is pretty ugly, but have mercy!Last edited by kestrel452; 01-31-2014 at 11:29 PM.
Reply:In general, push for mig, pull for flux core... the rule is "if it slags, it drags"... you won't always be able to do it that way, and you learn to adjust for weird positions and situations.  Sometimes you have to drag using mig... As Jody says, sometimes you gotta do what it takes to get it done.FYI... The most common problem I see with mig welding is poor ground connection.  Grind a clean spot for the connection, use a good clean(-ish at least) clamp and don't clamp to the front bumper and try to weld the rear.  Give your welder a chance to do what it's designed to do - make a good circuit with as little resistance as possible so it can heat the metal your trying to weld. You're okay in that picture but you should grind a clean spot so you're not trying to push electrons through millscale.  Same goes for the piece you're welding - clean shiny metal.  You can get away with some scale and crap with some stick rods and flux core, but even then if you have the time and tools available, why not clean the parts and give yourself and the machine the best possible conditions to make the weld good. At least good enough for the intended service and the worst conditions it might end up serving in.So, get thee a grinder and a flap wheel, wire wheel and grinding disk and some alcohol and clean that plate before you keep,welding.  It'll make a new man outta you.
Reply:Originally Posted by blawlessUnder no circumstance will you "buy" a welder cart. You will build this Young Jedi. In the meanwhile beat down a homeless person, take his grocery cart and dump his schitt. Put you welder in that until you.......... get ready for it......................build your own.
Reply:Originally Posted by RodJIn general, push for mig, pull for flux core... the rule is "if it slags, it drags"... you won't always be able to do it that way, and you learn to adjust for weird positions and situations.  Sometimes you have to drag using mig... As Jody says, sometimes you gotta do what it takes to get it done.FYI... The most common problem I see with mig welding is poor ground connection.  Grind a clean spot for the connection, use a good clean(-ish at least) clamp and don't clamp to the front bumper and try to weld the rear.  Give your welder a chance to do what it's designed to do - make a good circuit with as little resistance as possible so it can heat the metal your trying to weld. You're okay in that picture but you should grind a clean spot so you're not trying to push electrons through millscale.  Same goes for the piece you're welding - clean shiny metal.  You can get away with some scale and crap with some stick rods and flux core, but even then if you have the time and tools available, why not clean the parts and give yourself and the machine the best possible conditions to make the weld good. At least good enough for the intended service and the worst conditions it might end up serving in.So, get thee a grinder and a flap wheel, wire wheel and grinding disk and some alcohol and clean that plate before you keep,welding.  It'll make a new man outta you.
Reply:Dont' waste any time / grinding wheels / flap disks grinding the snail trails.  Get about a 1 foot square piece of 1/4" plate and start laying stringer beads from left to right and back again right to left.  Start at the far side of the plate and overlap each successive bead about 1/3 with the previous one.  When you completely cover the square, rotate 90 degrees and start over.Oh, and keep a bucket of water by the side of the table and quench the thing every few stingers or so.  Obviously as you go you will be getting the effect of a hot pass as the thing heats up.  The welding characteristics change as you go and the metal gets preheated.  Quenching allows you to learn how to start up on a cold plate and then work into it being hotter as you go.Save the flap and grinding disks for when you need them... unless you just enjoy grinding metal.  If so, there's a whole world of pipeliners that would like to hire you.
Reply:By the way, just in case you hadn't read this anywhere or haven't been told.  If you need to degrease / remove oil before welding DO NOT USE CHLORINATED SOLVENTS of any kind (Perc, TCE, some brake cleaners and electronics cleaners, etc.)  Any amount of it remaining when you start welding will turn into phosgene gas which can kill you...  and it takes only a wiff of a few parts per million.  Here's the famous article on it:http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htmWhile I'm at it, never is the grinder your friend.  It is the bas**** child of the devil himself.  Don't use (or disable) any trigger lock that locks it in the "on" position.  Keep the guard on it and in good condition.  Wear eye protection, remove your jewelry, tuck in any loose clothes, etc. because a grinder strikes like a rattlesnake. A grinder WANTS TO CHEW THROUGH YOUR JEANS AND MANGLE THE FLESH IN YOUR THIGH TO THE BONE. A grinder WANTS TO GRAB YOUR SHIRT AND CUT INTO YOUR ABDOMEN AND DISEMBOWEL YOU.  A grinder WANTS TO MAKE A CUTTING WHEEL EXPLODE AND SEND SHARDS AT A MILLION MILES AN HOUR INTO YOUR FACE. A grinder WANTS TO AND WILL BREAK OFF WIRE NEEDLE DARTS FROM THE WIRE WHEEL INTO YOUR EYEBALLS AND BLIND YOU. Hmmm, what other horrors are there... maybe take a look at Jody's website weldingtipsandtricks.com for his top 10 list of things that will "kill your a$$".  It's funny but it's real.Last edited by RodJ; 02-01-2014 at 05:14 PM.Another sad attempt at trying to lay beads. Kept burning through that 22ga sheet until i figured out you can only tack weld something that thin. The beads on the 18ga sheet on the right turned out okay but still a few burned through spots. Any here's my UGLY attempt at making a pyramid out of 22ga sheet. This basically resulted in my lesson of the day which is that trying to cut precision shapes with a torch isn't that great of an idea! For some reason my tacks each have a tiny amount of semi-melted wire sticking out like points.
Reply:Get some (at least) 1/8 inch and use that. Anything smaller will cause you to have burn through when laying beads. Also, an idea from Jody (weldingtipsandtricks.com), is made dice. I drill the holes to fit pencils. You get a cool pencil holder when learning to welding. Plus, its good to learn how to tack stuff and keep it square.Keep trying. You will get it.
Reply:Originally Posted by Canadian WeldingGet some (at least) 1/8 inch and use that. Anything smaller will cause you to have burn through when laying beads. Also, an idea from Jody (weldingtipsandtricks.com), is made dice. I drill the holes to fit pencils. You get a cool pencil holder when learning to welding. Plus, its good to learn how to tack stuff and keep it square.Keep trying. You will get it.
Reply:Well, pretty. Anything smaller is just auto body trash. I find any MIG or Fluxcore machine to run on 1/8" all day, with out even trying. I dont know where you live, but i can get metal from a scrap yard for 30 cents a pound. And, %90 of the time the metal is REALLY nice stuff. Rust free. Nice big sizes, or small strips etc. But ya, anything smaller is a little to thin for laying good beads. You can, but is pretty near impossible and makes life WAY harder then it has to be.
Reply:Originally Posted by Canadian WeldingWell, pretty. Anything smaller is just auto body trash. I find any MIG or Fluxcore machine to run on 1/8" all day, with out even trying. I dont know where you live, but i can get metal from a scrap yard for 30 cents a pound. And, %90 of the time the metal is REALLY nice stuff. Rust free. Nice big sizes, or small strips etc. But ya, anything smaller is a little to thin for laying good beads. You can, but is pretty near impossible and makes life WAY harder then it has to be.
Reply:Originally Posted by kestrel452 Like my location field says I'm in the chicago burbs
Reply:1st list all the info when posting picts. It makes it easier than if we have to dig thru the whole thread to see if you bothered to post the info.Machine used, If dual voltage are you on 110v power or 220v. Machine settings, power and wire speed, Wire used FC or solid and size. Gas used and flow rate. Material used and thickness. Position weld was made in if other than flat.22 ga you almost have to do a series of very short welds or tacks with mig. Thicker material can be done as actual beads. 16 ga is about the thinnest most guys can do using solid .023 wire and c25 gas. 14 ga isn't that hard and 1/8" is pushing the max on a 110v mig under ideal conditions.There are a number of "tricks" you can use on thinner material. One is to increase the gun to work distance. This makes the weld colder for a given set of voltage/wire speed. Next is to move around so you keep working on cold areas to reduce heat. You can also backstep the welds. That's where you work into a previous weld and move around to spread the heat. A series of small tacks can be done on really thin sheet, but there are some issues with this method. There's a chance you don't fuse the new weld with the older ones and have a series of weak points all thru the bead just to name one issue.Thin sheet with mig is an art all it's own. Thicker stuff is much easier to do than thin stuff. Woorking with someone who knows the "tricks" can really help you..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW1st list all the info when posting picts. It makes it easier than if we have to dig thru the whole thread to see if you bothered to post the info.Machine used, If dual voltage are you on 110v power or 220v. Machine settings, power and wire speed, Wire used FC or solid and size. Gas used and flow rate. Material used and thickness. Position weld was made in if other than flat.22 ga you almost have to do a series of very short welds or tacks with mig. Thicker material can be done as actual beads. 16 ga is about the thinnest most guys can do using solid .023 wire and c25 gas. 14 ga isn't that hard and 1/8" is pushing the max on a 110v mig under ideal conditions.There are a number of "tricks" you can use on thinner material. One is to increase the gun to work distance. This makes the weld colder for a given set of voltage/wire speed. Next is to move around so you keep working on cold areas to reduce heat. You can also backstep the welds. That's where you work into a previous weld and move around to spread the heat. A series of small tacks can be done on really thin sheet, but there are some issues with this method. There's a chance you don't fuse the new weld with the older ones and have a series of weak points all thru the bead just to name one issue.Thin sheet with mig is an art all it's own. Thicker stuff is much easier to do than thin stuff. Woorking with someone who knows the "tricks" can really help you.
Reply:.030 wire is part of your problem. .023 wire melts with less volts, so it's easier to do thin sheet with. 18 ga can be done with bigger wire, but requires more skill.PM Stickman. He's in the Chicago area and he can probably tell you who else here is in your area and may know who offers classes. Most of the high school votec programs here run night classes. Most "welding" classes are geared towards thicker material. However the autobody class also has a mig and they do sheet metal work. That might also be an option.I've got to run and get ready for snow, I'll add more info on thin stuff later when I can try and dig up the threads..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks for recommendation on .023 wire, I just got a spool of Hobart .024 based on that.Now, this might come across as an incredibly dumb question, but can an observer just watching the person welding use a helmet shade less than 10 if they're not putting their face right in the arc? Like say, around 5-10 feet away?Second question: Is using a stainless steel wire brush on mild steel welds going to cause an issue? I got a stainless brush for the whole durability aspect, but then i read stainless being introduced to carbon steel causes rust...Last edited by kestrel452; 02-06-2014 at 02:09 PM.
Reply:The brush won't be an issue. The problem occurs when you use carbon steel brushes on stainless. That can cause the stainless to "rust" due to the carbon steel getting stuck to the stainless.As far as the observers, yes that will work. The welding curtains on the weld booths at the tech school are nowhere near a shade 10 and they do an adequate job of blocking the light to casual observers. I wouldn't stare at the arc though or you'll still see spots just like if you stared at an incandescent bulb..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Hey guys, I ran a few more beads today. I took some 1/8", cut some squares, and tacked them into a couple different shaped pieces. One an "L" and one into an "X". I would have done more, but I pulled a really noob move and seriously burned my hand by grabbing a piece of metal i had just plasma cut without gloves on...   I also was mistakenly running my Millermatic 211 a little to hot, had it set to 1/4" instead of 1/8". I was running .030 solid wire. Anyway i took some pictures of the welds, let me know if you spot anything glaringly wrong with them. Last edited by kestrel452; 02-07-2014 at 10:13 PM.
Reply:Remaining photograph.
Reply:Very nice work. Looks 100 times better then on the thin stuff.
Reply:Originally Posted by Canadian WeldingVery nice work. Looks 100 times better then on the thin stuff.
Reply:Originally Posted by kestrel452Thanks  Notice anything wrong? All my untrained eyes can tell is that I'm not nearly consistent enough with my speed, and keep missing the edges of the joint. For some reason I'm getting a ton of spatter too.
Reply:Hey guys, I REALLY need help diagnosing a problem. For some reason today, I just cant seem to get my machine welding right. It isn't melting the wire fast enough, and it ends up pushing the gun away instead of melting. I have tried increasing gas flow, changing the voltage, new contact tip, changing where i put the ground clamp, and I can't seem to get it welding. If i stay with it for more than 10 seconds my machine turns itself off and gives me a temp warning. I have a 2 minute video showing what's going on.http://i.imgur.com/lag5bBD.jpgLast edited by kestrel452; 02-09-2014 at 05:09 PM.
Reply:Turn down the wire feed speed if its stubbinThat is when the wire is pushing the gun back because it cannot brun it fast enoughIf it is thermaling ...getting so hot its blow its heat breakerYou are exceeding its duty cycle at its output settingSent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2Backed my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Originally Posted by killdozerd11Turn down the wire feed speed if its stubbinThat is when the wire is pushing the gun back because it cannot brun it fast enoughIf it is thermaling ...getting so hot its blow its heat breakerYou are exceeding its duty cycle at its output settingSent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
Reply:Originally Posted by killdozerd11Turn down the wire feed speed if its stubbinThat is when the wire is pushing the gun back because it cannot brun it fast enoughIf it is thermaling ...getting so hot its blow its heat breakerYou are exceeding its duty cycle at its output settingSent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
Reply:Originally Posted by kestrel452The thing though is that I shouldn't be overheating it after only 10 seconds of welding, and I've tried using both the door chart wire speed and the wire speed Auto-Set.
Reply:Originally Posted by Canadian WeldingThe door chart is not always right.
Reply:Tried lowering the WFS, and it did alleviate the stubbing once i just about halved the door chart value. But now the puddles have this tendency to pile up instead of flow out, as if not enough heat is getting put in. Still confused why using the Auto-Set worked the other day but not anymore There has to be some sort of electrical problem. For some reason too I'm getting some spatter all the way back into where the contact tip adapter and gas flow holes are.Last edited by kestrel452; 02-09-2014 at 06:43 PM.
Reply:Finally think everything is working... I ran some beads on top of the old ones, let me know what you guys think! And some new flat beadsLast edited by kestrel452; 02-14-2014 at 07:12 PM.