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hello my name is Karm, I'm 31, my background is ME, work in IT and like to fabricate parts for my car and recently wanted to get my hands into TIG welding, i picked up this old lincoln machine, i hooked it up to 240 volt, single phase, w/ 100 amp breaker, but i can't seem to start the spark, i followed the lincoln manual for this machine, put in the correct settings, set to highest amp, but the thing just makes burn marks in the material, see video, i tried another piece, a 3/8 cast, started to penetrate the material nicely but the tungsten just melted in a few seconds and the amptrol was fully open, i just get can't the spark going, have to tap on the material sometimes it starts but most of the time the tip just sticks to the material, i must be doing something wrong, switches the ground from electrode to work, same thing, just grazes on the material, tried a real thin pieces, pops a hole right in it, hooked up the argon as well, just scratches the material, spark to on, off, start, nothing, same thing, is there a ground missing, because thats what i think is one problem, is there another ground on the back of the machine, am i using the wrong thickness tip? please help
Reply:same machine as mine.1 need to set spark switch to on (in pic it is off.2 for steel TIG electrode polarity use DC -- (neg--,,,,,,,,,,,,,DC+(pos for stick welding . 3 for alumi tig use AC i run mine most of the time in med current selector adjust (fine tune current control about half way for 1/8-- 3/16 metals turn post flow (after flow ) down way down--- use 100% ARGONGO to lincoln electric and down load manual using code from machineidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:Torch is hooked to electrode stud (((RIGHT side same as the stick lead work ground clamp goes to ((LEFT sidetake off the clamp its for the work ground [[me tinks you got hooked up aszbarckwardsidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:Argon isn't optional, it is absolutely necessary; no exceptions. Make sure the argon tank is open and that the flowmeter is set at about 15-20 cfh. Make sure that argon is flowing out of the torch when you are trying to make it spark. It looks like you might not have argon flowing.I can't quite tell whats going on in the picture where the cables attach. Why is the work clamp attached to the stud that says "electrode" under it?Connect the torch to where the machine says electrode, and the clamp to the other one.You are using tungsten in the torch, right? That is absolutely necessary too.When you get a chance, put a new cup (pink thing) on the torch. That one you have is past end of life.Go you youtube and watch a lot of tig welding videos.. you will get a good idea of how it works.Last edited by razer; 11-24-2011 at 05:48 PM."Great spirits have always encountered violent oppostion from mediocre minds." -- Albert Einstein
Reply:thank you, i'll switch it back, i tried it both ways, same result, what about a ground for the machine itself, does the machine need one? the manual says something about one and it has to be 10 ft deep in the ground, i can't find a ground lug, can this thing even weld 3/16 - 1/4 aluminum 6061,i think the electrode isn't tungsten, i'll order a new one but need the inside nozzle that keeps the tungsten from moving, you all know what i'm talking about, its threaded, what type do i need? what size electrode do i need, thing just melted, also where do i find the nozzle for larger electrodes? thank you thank you
Reply:you will need 3 wire on back where it is open usually green goes to ground of the machine,, will be a 5/16 stud other 2 wires go to line1 and line 2 those will the 120 /120 making 240/220 volts i am using 8 gauge stranded wire DO YOU HAVE manual ????idealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:hmmm.....i do have the manual from the lincoln archives but can't find the lug they are talking about, the 3 wire plug is wired correctly, checked it reads 240-250, the thrid wire ground goes to the ground on the breaker box that comes into the house, got 8 gauge wire going all the way to the breaker box, the mill and lathe work fine but concerned about this lug they are talking about, i'll take a picture and report backwhat about the nozzles, and electrode size?
Reply:i found the 5/16 lug your talking about, that's all hooked up correctly, none of the wires behind the rear cover were fiddled with, for some reason i was looking for a lug on the chassis itself on the outside
Reply:the electrode seems to be tungsten since i can't take a magnet to it, just can't believe it melted so quickly
Reply:the electrode holder is 5/32
Reply:5/32"?! You won't need or want tungsten that large with this machine.Get some 3/32", 2% Lanthanated or Ceriated tungsten.Unless you got more results than what we see in the video, the tungsten should not have melted.. if it is tungsten.It is hard to tell what kind of torch you have. Without knowing what kind you have, it is hard to suggest parts. Look at the neck between the business end and the handle.You're an ME, weigh the electrode, measure its diameter and length, find the density and determine what it is what way, or hit it with a PMI gun, or just dump it and get something where you know what it is."Great spirits have always encountered violent oppostion from mediocre minds." -- Albert Einstein
Reply:ok mostlikely it 3/32 i use red for all but thats an other thread are you using a air cooled or water cooled torch ?guess we need to take all the leads and hoses off and start a newidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:am guessing it is an air cooled torch you have not said if you are using Argonand lets start off with steel to make thing easyer your aluminum is DIRTY if that is alum learning to Tig steel is easyer to learn puddle control,,,,, then move to alumLast edited by prop-doctor; 11-24-2011 at 06:47 PM.idealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:thanks for the replies, i don't have enough electrode to even stick it out of the torch so no more videos until i figure out what electrode i need, , 3" of it just melted when i was able to get the spark going, so i want to weld 1/4" aluminum, the chart says 3/16 minimum thickness electrode. i found the parts and electrode, just need to know whats good for 1/4" and this machine in particular. the welder recommends 275 amps should be plenty for what i'm doing.prop-this is a air cooler, i don't see an attachment on the torch for water, although the machine does. do i need water?
Reply:not for real short welds using that high of amps, and using an 1/8 tungsten will take the heat better3/32 will work .. you will be on the high side of that welder with 1/4-3/16if you have never welded alum i highly suggest starting with steel when you get more tungsten guess we can help morewhat CFH are you running for gas ?/idealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:thank you, i can mig all day long, excellant with puddle control on mig from 1/8-1/2" steel, but TIG is new to me, i think i found the torch model either 17 or 26, i figured a thicker electrode would be better but guess not, perhaps its like MIG where .023 wire is a lot better than .030" on a smaller household welder. i cleaned that workpiece with the grinder but like i said the spark would not start unless i touched it, it would just stick to the material and i'd have to yank it off. thats what made the piece turn black with burn marksso turning the switch to on position will help, would the spark initiate before it touches the material?edit-i'm using my mig setting for the argon/co2 22 psi, i don't know the flow rate though, im' guessing i need 100% argon as wellLast edited by kazx9r; 11-24-2011 at 07:21 PM.Reason: edit
Reply:We trained our new TIG students starting with a 1/8" thoriated tungsten. They didn't destroy it as fast so they got more practice.They'd practice on steel plate for a couple of days just running straight beads with no filler.Bead runs were approx six inches to start then to about ten. Longer runs will smooth you out.Clean the plate with an angle grinder to remove all mill scale. Ensure your plate is positioned so you can get a comfortable brace position you can consistently repeat.
Reply:thank you, that's all i wanted to do was just doing straight beads with no filler but i only got it to work once with the case aluminum 3/8 piece but it melted the electrode in the process, its a lot softer than the piece i showed in the video but still was a pain to get the spark going.
Reply:You guess right. You have you have to run 100% pure argon. You cannot use any CO2 at all... period.You're just wasting time using CO2. You will never get anything good from trying to TIG weld with CO2."Great spirits have always encountered violent oppostion from mediocre minds." -- Albert Einstein
Reply:yes 100% Argon for Tig welding alum,steel,and stainlesswith tig you may want to get a flow meter i can't tell you the psi conversion to Cubic feet per hour CFH you should be running about 12-20 Cfh argon the spark switch is for the High freq to make arc jump you may want to check the spark gap on the points you only need about an 1/8-1/4 " stick out past the cupidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:i'm certain this welder has the potential to weld, because it straight punished the cast piece i had along with the electrode, and the transmission casing i plan to weld is a lot thinner i won't see more than 1/4",its cast, and i'll probably preheat it. if this thing can't weld that no point in dumping more money and just go straight to the welder
Reply:it has the power to weld its a tank been running mine for over 20yrs so good a bought a second one if this tranny is for use and not practice there will be some practice on scrap needed ,,,cast can be hard to learn on cause it gota be CLEAN cleanidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:thank you all, i just wanted to practice today, plenty of trans casing's to practice on, didn't think i would need the argon, i had some argon/co2 for the mig, so just hooked that up temporarily, no worries, i'll get some next week, i have another gauge with a flow meter although its an import and measures lit/min, i checked the gap on the machine when i had the cover offi believe i did put the spark switch to on, and down for on start, the machine made a funny noise but the spark did seem way more intense, i figured the spark was contolled from somewhere else, and turrned it back to off
Reply:i apologize the electrode is a 3/32, the torch is a cni-17vh, so what style nozzle will fit this thing?
Reply:i think the cup may work (its not burnt off or chipped) unscrew it an scrape it off make sure it is clean inside if its not cracked or broken it will work ,,but a pressure gauge can work may use more gasand yes a flow type meter will be bettergoing by the miller calculator:: 3/16 alum butt weld, 125-150 amps, 21cfh or 20 psi 3/32 ,tungsten,7/16-1/2 in cupidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441Update, got some 1/8 2% thioriated tungsten, 100% argon, and it works good, had no problem's fully penetrating 1/4" 6061-t6 test piece, didn't even prep it, I put a separate power wire to the torch for now, since the one-piece had a hole in it, fixed it with a barb, its a bit heavy but I'll fix that later.One question, how does it increment the current control min 0 max 10, so I put the AC on high, so it will be like 130 at min and 275 at max on the turn knob, so if I set it a min, then the amptrol will give me control from 0-130or something else?I took a big risk on this welder, I thought I bought a lemon, we couldn't check it out at the buyer's place, he had a storage and was a liquidator not the original owner, ..plus buying the argon I was just getting in deeper and deeper, it was stressing me out. All said and done, $650 including owner owned argon bottle, caster wheels, $30 for the electrodes, $20 for the pressure gauge. I think its a good deal.Last edited by kazx9r; 12-18-2011 at 12:59 PM.Reason: none
Reply:only thing not addressed already is melting your tungsten - if you had the polarity wrong you will melt it. $650 sounds like a great deal! no idea on your current control question, hopefully someone is familiar with this exact machine and can answer for you.Update us with some pics!miller syncrowave 250hobart handler 140home made 400 amp engine driven in progress...
Reply:Originally Posted by kazx9rAll said and done, $650 including owner owned argon bottle, caster wheels, $30 for the electrodes, $20 for the pressure gauge. I think its a good deal.
Reply:bump help on the question above
Reply:http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...OLN3/IM402.pdfseen this already?miller syncrowave 250hobart handler 140home made 400 amp engine driven in progress...
Reply:It kind of helps but doesn't answer anything about the amptrol
Reply:Most machines like that, when you set the range, you are limited by the bottom end. So 130 - 275 means that the lowest current you can put out is 130. The dial just sets the peak (approximately linear from 130-275. So a setting of '1' would give something like 130-135Amps. Setting of 10 would be 130-275 amps.Take a few minutes and make a quick spread sheet with the different settings vs. Amps desired.Take the thickness of the metal you are welding and convert to .001 inches. That will give you the ball park amp settings. With aluminum go +10%, on stainless or some smaller parts, -10%. That will get you in the ball park.A foot control will fine tune as you need. The problem is when you try to stop. If you snap off the current at say 130 Amps, you are going to leave a nice crater at the end. You can cure this by backing up as you lift from the pedal. Backup to the point were the metal has solidified and it should be safe to cut off the current.There are a couple of other ways to control heat, but that should get you started. I would suggest you consider buying Miller's student pack. Lots of good information there. Consider it an investment in your education. Once you know the 'book' way, your next step is to practice practice practice.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:That's clear, thank you. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:20:12