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I have heard mention that this is a great way to cope tubing..Now I am wondering what the preffered setup to do this usually is..(I can barely run a mill yet if this seems like a dumb question)..
Reply:A few quick picts of the rig a friend of mine uses to do his copes. Attached Images.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:With a single point tool it will take forever. I doubt the vise grips will hold it if you actually do any real cutting. The fixture is not rigid enough and the work will vibrate like a tuning fork. It will work but ... he can't be paid by the hour.
Reply:He precuts the angle on his Ellis saw and then just copes the ends. He uses it for production work in the shop for fabbing up lacing for cranes. Since if he's doing lacing, all he does if cut and fit tube, I'm betting it's fairly productive. It doesn't take all that long to cut, and if you want you can simply set the power feed and go do something else like cut the next piece on the Ellis saw. Probably as fast as doing the same thing on mine with a bimetal hole saw. The high tensile alloy tubes probably wreak havoc on most hole saws, and the wide variety of tube sizes he uses probably negates using standard size hole saws anyways.There was no vibration at all when I did that cut. The pict is a bit deceptive. I think that's a piece of at least 2" or 2 1/2" in the unit. The base angle is 10" x 14" angle 3/4" or 1" thick, and the pivot plate is either 5/8" or 3/4" IIRC. I believe that's a set 11" vicegrips in the jig. It's definitely not a 6" set of vicegrips..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:a milling machine with an adjustable head is the way to go.
Reply:I use a end mill set up from Mittler Brothers works awesome!!
Reply:I used a hole saw with good sucess on .062 stainless tube, you will need one deep enough to cut thru the tube without bottoming out in the hoe saw. A milling cutter works well too as mentioned above, the larger ones are expensive though.mike sr
Reply:Id be willing to bet you can find something used and cheap. ebay or craigslist.. find a machine shop selling tooling or something like that. Like an endmillHTP Invertig 201Lincoln Idealarc SP250Miller 180 AC StickBy farmall:They should have held the seagull closer to the work, squeezing evenly for best deposition.
Reply:Just go with a fly cutter like DSW suggested. There isn't a cheaper route than the lathe tool bit that it uses and its operator resharpenable. Easy to adjust for tubing diameter using just one size tool bit, just as DSW said.As for the jig, while it may be useful in a production environment, just chuck the tubing in the a vise and swivel/tilt the mill's head for low volume work.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:I like the idea of the fly cutter, I'll have to give that a try. I generally use a roto-broach. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:When you are doing production work then roughing cutters of various sizes are the "weapons of choice". We use them all the time on our Sprintcar chassis repairs and for speed they can't be beaten.You'll notice we tend to notch with the tube at an angle to the bed, we could tilt the head of the machine but the way we do it is much quicker.Regards Andrew from Oz.
Reply:i also notch with the tube at an angle to the bed , but useing a toolmakers machining vice since i sold my clausing. I made up half dozen different jaws to solve problems with thin tubeing getting crimped and bent. I also mitre on my 13x40 , clamped to the carriage. Attached Images thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:I'd like to try the fly cutter too. I would guess you could measure the OD of the cutter holder and calculate the stickout of the tool. Even if you off a few thou it would be more accurate than the hole saw. It also would work nice for the steep angle cuts. I don't know if I could get the boss man to spring for the hog mills. That would be the way to go. Just have to keep the shop weasles away from them.
Reply:hole saw. all day. Just make sure the tube is in a rigid fixture. I daily cut 0.028 and 0.038 wall tubing this way.
Reply:Are you using the hole saws in a Bridgeport or other mill?? Very poor and expensive luck there. I just busted another new arbor. The drill chuck grabs the hex nice but the machine simple over powers the saw if it sticks or digs in and twists the arbor shank off. It make a horrible grinding ripping sound. I fixed it by cutting off the damaged hex and welding a 3/8 x .058 wall 4130 tube about 1 1/4 in long to it. I used a transfer punch for a line up on the id. Then I added a 1/2 x .058 wall 4130 tube over the 3/8 tube. Mainly I did this to give more weld area. The hole saw arbor is probably a leaded screwmachine stock and it didn't weld real nice. So far it works pretty well It runs more true than the original. since the shank is now round rather than hex it can slip in a drill chuck.
Reply:Originally Posted by bentwingsAre you using the hole saws in a Bridgeport or other mill?? Very poor and expensive luck there. I just busted another new arbor. The drill chuck grabs the hex nice but the machine simple over powers the saw if it sticks or digs in and twists the arbor shank off.
Reply:Cheeze wiz ones. Guess that why they get busted. I'll have to look into those R-8 ones.
Reply:I do not use those arbors you get at the local box store. I've got arbors from paragon machine works, much like the ones in the pic above.(R8 setup)Also, unlike your good ole 'joint jigger' setup that uses a handheld drill for power, My feed rate is fairly slow (roughly 0.250 per minute) and using a cutting RPM of 180 to 200.Your setup has to be rigid or you will rip the hole saws to pieces. This setup works beautifully.Another good alternative, especially if you want to 'get one with the work', is to hand file the miter. Takes less than a minute, just a bit more elbow grease.
Reply:Here's my setup. A little much for occasional use, but I am coping tubing almost every day. I use tooling from Anvil Bikeworks and the arbors are the 3/4" ones from Paragon Machine Works mentioned above.
Reply:nice zank , i think i hav don at anvil bikeworks on my freindslist....that guy is a sik machinist , i think he frowns on bridgeports , i think his lowest vert mill is a tree sheesh he's all cnc'd out......does that clamping method ever crimp the tubeing .? ever .? thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:Not once. The Vs cradle the tubing nicely. Works great on oval and funky shaped tubing as well.Don has helped me a ton over the years. I use photos of his welding like the one below as inspiration. And he has great taste in whiskey.Last edited by zank; 12-14-2011 at 08:28 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by zank
Reply:welding porn to aspire to....miller syncrowave 250hobart handler 140home made 400 amp engine driven in progress...
Reply:This topic has been talked about before. Here is a link to a thread about this. http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...l+notch&page=2A horizontal mill is much better suited for this specific task due to the horizontal spindle orientation. Allows you to avoid the precarious set up in one of the above pictures where the vise is only clamped a a part of the tube at an angle!If you jump to post #34 you can see my horizontal mill take a notch in a few seconds.Definitely want to use a roughing cutter as it allows for a fast plunge cut. A single point cutter like a fly cutter will work but it will take a lot longer and tool life is SIGNIFICANTLY shorter.Granthttp://jackalopefab.com/MM210Synchrowave 200DXMiller XMT350 w/60series feederMiller Bobcat 250 with SGA 100 and spoolgunHTP PlasmaFull Machine shop with everything
Reply:Originally Posted by jackalopeThis topic has been talked about before. Here is a link to a thread about this. http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...l+notch&page=2If you jump to post #34 you can see my horizontal mill take a notch in a few seconds.GrantOriginally Posted by slag magnetNow that is fast. I would like to see it with some .028 or .035 wall 4130 or stronger. What type of heat is this generating? What speed is the mill turning? Pretty cool.
Reply:The fly cutter would not be covering a lot of surface area, therefore I believe it moves thru pretty quick!AEAD 200LE, Lincoln precision tig 185, Millermatic 251, Spectrum 625 extreme, Victor torch , Smithy 1220LTD. and Do all C-4 band saw , Always adding.
Reply:Originally Posted by houseoffireThe fly cutter would not be covering a lot of surface area, therefore I believe it moves thru pretty quick!
Reply:Originally Posted by jackalopeA horizontal mill is much better suited for this specific task due to the horizontal spindle orientation. Allows you to avoid the precarious set up in one of the above pictures where the vise is only clamped a a part of the tube at an angle!Grant |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:20:11