How can an o/a torch be cleaned???

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I have a question. If I were to buy a o/a torch used, or even new, how can I be sure that oil hasn't been put on anything (So there isn't a boom when put onto the oxygen tank)? Is there something safe to clean out oil with? The reason I am asking is the risk of buying a used torch from someone that doesn't know the risk (of putting oil/grease on oxygen fittings) is high. Because I didn't know till recently, and I have owned torches for 25 years.Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:I am 61 and welded all my life and never thought of this. I believe you are being paranoid. If it looks like it has oil on it then squirt it with some ether or alcohol and let it dry.
Reply:Go over your new/old torch with a small handheld propane torch?I have owned hundreds of torches. Have never once worried about oil, have never had a problem.
Reply:Just put flashback arrestors on your tanks/torches, that way if anything happens its more of a pop/fizzle than a boom. There is more danger of oil IN the regulators causing trouble, or much worse- oily clothes, gloves, boots, work area. It could be a potential problem but there are much worse ones to worry about.
Reply:So is rubbing alcohol a safe cleaner of oil and if so would it cause a problem on any o rings etc? It occurred to me that if a torch body sat around it could get oil in a fitting. Or if some schmuck put some oil on a valve to get it to turn easier ( not knowing or careing ) that I would be the one to pay the price and would rather not find that deal. So I thought I'd ask the question. Also I may want to clean my torches who knows.Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:I might be wrong but I think the problem with oil would mainly be on/in the fitting that connects to the bottle itself. This is where the high pressure side is and the potential for spontaneous combustion.  In any case, inspect all fittings and threads for oil and debris. Dust and dirt can clog the valves to your torch causing them to never quite shut off fully.
Reply:I would not introduce solvent into the torch itself.If you want to be sure, you can stretch out your oxygen hose outdoors to full length and, with flash arrestor connected, open the torch oxygen valve(s) a few turns. Do not connect the acetylene hose. Open your oxygen cylinder and let it run for about ten seconds..That "purges" the torch and if there were anything unfortunate therein it should react. Rather like purging an aircraft oxygen system. You aren't standing next to it if it goes boom. I've never needed to do this since I haven't found or smelled any traces of oil on any torch I've purchased. I leak check torches when I get them using clean, dry compressed air and a bucket of clean water. They get a good visual inspection first especially O-rings and seals. I blow out the torch thoroughly afterward. That ensures the hoses will seal to the torch, that the valve packings are properly adjusted, and that the cutting oxygen shuts off properly.The manuals on the Victor website show procedures applicable to most other torches too.
Reply:When in doubt, you could always send it in to be refurbed professionally. There are any number of cleaners that are recommended for O2 service on things. I won't list them publicly since O2 isn't something most people should F with if they don't know what they are doing. I'm trained to do 100% O2 service on dive regs and I still wouldn't F around with a HP O2 welding reg. I'd send it in for service myself if there was any doubt in my mind. If you really want to know, do a search on O2 cleaning procedures for the US Navy, NOAA, or NAUI. My NAUI O2 service and blending manual lists several methods, and is based on the US Navy and NOAA guide lines IIRC. At least these sources will tell you all the correct procedures. There's another book, the Oxygen Hackers Companion, that I would not recommend. The author takes a very cavalier attitude toward O2 cleaning. Some of the things he suggests are just plain wrong. As said the biggest issue is with the HP side of the regs. My biggest concern would be if someone pulled of the regs and dropped them in a box with oily rags  or spilled something on them. One thing to be very careful of is that you don't get any cleaning solvents inside the reg. It may carry contaminants inside that were not there before. If anything I'd simply replace the CGA 540 nut and nipple so I'm 100% sure it's clean. The torch is a bit different. Since it's on the LP output side, chances are significantly lower that there will be any issues. Here a basic disassemble and cleaning may be possible. I'd have no issues doing the torch since it's LP O2 and I'm familiar with the basic precautions and cleaning procedures. You want to make sure you don't get any contaminants on packings and other parts that may absorb them. You don't need to be super paranoid about O2. You just need to use common sense and be aware about how it needs to be handled. basic general precautions will protect the average user. If buying used regs, take a close look at the condition of the units and if possible take a look at the way the seller takes care of his tools. If they are all dirty/greasy, lumped in a big pile, you might want to think about whether the deal is worth the risk. If the guy takes good care of his tools, they are clean and neat, chances are he takes reasonable care of his stuff and you probably won't have any issues..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:DSW I was, about 30 years ago, factory trained to do dive regulator stuff too but got out a long time ago. But I got to thinking that if a guy was to get his torches near oil  and sell them and I bought them is there a danger? I am (in my thread title) talking mostly about the inside (of the torch) as opposed to the outside. Say a valve packing was tight and someone that didn't know oiled it and put it back together. Say the torch set was dumped in a box with a bunch of crap and a rag.. Would rubbing alcohol be safe as someone suggested to disassemble and rinse with?Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:Rubbing alcohol is dilute and weak. I'd pass it by.  Acetone is oxygen safe. So is this:http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/...safety-solvantIf you take the torch apart, put a new seal kit in the thing while it's disassembled.Last edited by farmall; 12-24-2011 at 06:29 PM.
Reply:Alcohol isn't on my list for O2 cleaning agents. Generally I don't use acetone for that, but it is very good for removing heavy crud. I'd probably still do standard O2 service after I used it however. Just me.O2 service is a bit different than a standard dive reg rebuild in some ways. The basic training will serve you well in this with some of the references above. It will give you a start point to work from as far as understanding. My greatest concern would be packings and such that might absorb contaminants. I don't pull torches apart generally, so I can't say what exactly is inside each individual unit. When in doubt, I'd simply go with the way they do scuba reg rebuilds and replace all the "disposable" parts after O2 servicing the hard parts.The site Farmall listed above is probably where I would send any regs I needed to get rebuilt. OAdoctor and I have conversed several time on the subject of O2 fires and such when these topics have come up in the past. I also would probably send them any torches I'd have that were in serious need of an overhaul, and probably where I would go for torch parts like packings if I did choose to do one myself for some reason.I'll list a few of the cleanliness tests listed in my NAUI Mixed gas blender and oxygen service manual.(Assuming the unit has been torn down and cleaned... )Immerse the parts in a clean bowl of hot water and let sit for several minutes. Inspect the surface of the water for any oil sheen. If so, reclean the items. (obviously this can not really be done to an assembled torch  and get good results.)A water-break test means water should not bead on the component surfaces for at least 5 seconds. reclean if beading occurs, but not rinsing a surfactant completely away will mask oil residue underneath the sheen of water.Expose components within 15" under an U/V black light preferably between 3600 and 3900 angstroms for at least 5 minutes. Many oils and greases, inks and dyes fluoresce, however most compressor oils will not. Evidence of oils, grease, particulate or fibers is cause for recleaning and rinsing. However lack of fluorescence can not rule out the absence of oil contamination.Wipe the cleaned parts twice with a clean filter paper or lint free cloth. Evidence of oil, grease, particulates or fibers is cause for recleaning and rinsing..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I would say that if you think its been serviced with oil then it wasn't a professional job since they know what to lube it with, it should not be purchased.   What other 'improvements' were done to the equipment by the tinkering owner?
Reply:If you get it cheap enough just send the thing off for rebuild and call it good. The easy way to avoid risk is to be the person who unpacks and cares for OA gear throughout it's lifespan.