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I saw a video where a guy made a hanger for his Milwaukee portable band saw and want to make one too except I’m doing mine a little different. Anyway I have a pile of 5/8 rebar and I want the bend approximately a 2” diameter loop to hold the saw. It’s pretty hard to bend that small of a radius and I was just wondering if it would be better to heat it up with a torch first. Besides the possibility of burning myself. would it be a waste of time or should I just try to bend it cold in the vice? I have some smaller sizes of rebar like 3/8" but i want to have it extended out approx 2ft from a swivel point and don't want it to sag from the weight of the Band saw. I'm hoping that the 5/8 will be strong enough, but I guess I'll have to wait and see.
Reply:Rebar will break being bent that small cold. Heat it red hot is your only chance.Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:You need to spend money see KBR Machine and Rebar Machine Sales and see what rebar fab shops use for no touch operation.
Reply:You can bend it cold with no problems if it is Grade 2.
Reply:Originally Posted by BobYou can bend it cold with no problems if it is Grade 2.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPRebar will break being bent that small cold. Heat it red hot is your only chance.
Reply:Originally Posted by PavinsteelmanYou need to spend money see KBR Machine and Rebar Machine Sales and see what rebar fab shops use for no touch operation.
Reply:sleeperBend it Cold - and bury in concrete.Bend it Hot - and bury in concrete.Without 'Grade with Certs', welding Rebar for anything structural is irresponsible.Exterior of concrete - welding Rebar is only suitable for Art - because Art has no rules.Opus.Last edited by OPUS FERRO; 02-14-2014 at 10:18 PM.Reason: Truncation
Reply:Originally Posted by sleeperYou mean like this? LOL
Reply:WOW, I don't think we are on the same page here. This what I'm going to do and it has nothing to do with construction or concrete.
Reply:This is the video that gave me the idea for the hanger to hold my band saw. It shows the hanger within the first minute. He has his hanging from the roof, but I don't want to hang anything from the ceiling. I'm going to weld a piece of pipe to my bench and swing the hanger out of the way. The rest of video is something else and I'm not interested in it.
Reply:May just be a lack of experience with rebar, but I have trouble seeing that 2 foot lever holding the weight of a portaband without flex. The comments about concrete are implying that concrete is the only legitimate use for rebar. A point that can be argued very well. I say give it a shot and tell us how it works. Sent from my SPH-L900 using TapatalkMultimatic 200Ellis 1800Haberle S225 9" cold sawMM 300; Spoolmate 30A w/ WC-24TB 302GDynasty 280 DX Tigrunner
Reply:the 2 foot leg is gonna sagif you want a 2" radius you'll need heat, maybe a short cheater bar, and a piece of pipe to bend it around..freehand it and it will probably go out of plane on you..Last edited by weldbead; 02-14-2014 at 11:38 PM.
Reply:I couldn't imagine having to use a Portaband often enough to want to hang it by the bench.I cringe every time I need to use one.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by DrooopyMay just be a lack of experience with rebar, but I have trouble seeing that 2 foot lever holding the weight of a portaband without flex. The comments about concrete are implying that concrete is the only legitimate use for rebar. A point that can be argued very well. I say give it a shot and tell us how it works. Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
Reply:sleeper . . . I found your page . . . I over drove my head lights - I supposed a welding componentto your project.Welding aside . . .In a home shop, #3 can be formed cold, with a Hickey Bar. #3 will not carry your saw load with stability at 24". #5 is adequate, but requires heavy tooling for cold forming,or large O/A capacity.The down side is that both are Rebar.Tech TipThe convenience of Rebar as a building material is off-set by its consistent structural failure, and the recurring problems in service with it surface deformations. Use standard forms.Opus
Reply:Oh I got side tracked and forgot to address the 2ft sagging. I figured if it did sag I could weld on a brace or something afterward as long as the drop down hook remained thin. I'll just push the thing back out of the way when I'm not using it and swing it out to where I can pull it off the hook when I do need it.
Reply:Thanks Opus, I didn’t want it to become a major project and I had a 10ft piece of rebar and figured it would be quick and easy to bend it up until I tried bending the small hook. I originally was thinking of welding a piece of unistrut to a piece of 1” black iron pipe and stick the pipe inside a 1 ¼” or 1 1/2" black iron pipe so it would rotate around. I have some 3’ x ½ in cold rolled rods to use for the hook, but then I figured I should save the rod for something more important.
Reply:Talking about rebar got me to thinking about all the stuff I used to make out of it working as a ranch handyman back in the ‘70s. We always had a supply of rebar lying around from constant concrete projects. I used it for everything like welding it into gates for the cattle, made baskets for the tractors to carry tools and even used it for quick repairs on almost all of the farm equipment. I had so much of that stuff welded on to the hay baler that it wasn’t recognizable anymore. LOL The other thing I made a lot of was non-slip steps not only for the equipment but also for water towers and the trucks.
Reply:I think it could be a cool project, quick and easy. I'm all for stuff that makes life easier to. I would probably run a brace to the arm, cheap insurance instead of your saw dropping on the floor.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPRebar will break being bent that small cold. Heat it red hot is your only chance.
Reply:Heat it to a bright red heat about 900 to 1000C and have hammer and 5cm rebar and loop it by hammering around 5cm rebar.
Reply:Thanks guys,I was trying to figure the height of the hook and Im limited to how high I can lift it. I have a bad shoulder with two severed tendons and the maximum height Im able to lift anything is about 52. I might be able to go as height as 55 if I can throw it up and hook it although I may have to experiment with that, but as long as it clears anything on top of my workbench, it will be OKId like to have total height at least 6 and a maximum of 7 to clear my lighting and air hose, so figuring at 52 high, the drop down would be about 20 .I came across an old blacksmith anvil for sale a few years and now I wish I would have bought it.
Reply:Why the concern and focus on BENDING the hook or loop? From what I saw in the video you cited as the inspiration for you to make something similar for yourself, the loop that engaged the saw handle was more like a squared off, 3 sided rectangle than a loop. (as I am thinking "circle" when I think loop)You have a band saw and can weld (?), so, why not consider cutting the pieces that will comprise the tool rest as individual sections and just weld them together to form it, instead of being hung up on the idea of bending it out of a single long piece of rebar?And as you already stated your indifference to people's opinion of how you use rebar, please don't say something about the desire for an artistic look or sinuous curves.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldWhy the concern and focus on BENDING the hook or loop? From what I saw in the video you cited as the inspiration for you to make something similar for yourself, the loop that engaged the saw handle was more like a squared off, 3 sided rectangle than a loop. (as I am thinking "circle" when I think loop)You have a band saw and can weld (?), so, why not consider cutting the pieces that will comprise the tool rest as individual sections and just weld them together to form it, instead of being hung up on the idea of bending it out of a single long piece of rebar?And as you already stated your indifference to people's opinion of how you use rebar, please don't say something about the desire for an artistic look or sinuous curves.I am no stranger to rebar projects. I have even buried some in concrete! I have used cut and welded pieces to fabricate items where bending would be impossible, or at least impractical.All the things I have used rebar for (other than concrete reinforcement) have been either temporary jig work or things that simply do not merit using higher priced or higher quality stock.Since you use rebar, it might interest you (or not) that the rebar sizing strategy/nomenclature is based on increments of 1/8". As such, 1/4" rebar is # 2 (because 1/4 = 2/8). 3/8" becomes #3 rebar. 1/2" is #4 (4/8) and so on up the size list.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldI am no stranger to rebar projects. I have even buried some in concrete! I have used cut and welded pieces to fabricate items where bending would be impossible, or at least impractical.All the things I have used rebar for (other than concrete reinforcement) have been either temporary jig work or things that simply do not merit using higher priced or higher quality stock.Since you use rebar, it might interest you (or not) that the rebar sizing strategy/nomenclature is based on increments of 1/8". As such, 1/4" rebar is # 2 (because 1/4 = 2/8). 3/8" becomes #3 rebar. 1/2" is #4 (4/8) and so on up the size list.
Reply:I would expect home improve stores to use an inch based system because they must market to the general public who may not be privy to the official sizes.Ring-ring "Hello, big box home improv store, how may I help you?" Uh, you got any 1/2" rebar? "No, we have #4." Uh, OK thanks. I guess I'll try some other place.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerweldI would expect home improve stores to use an inch based system because they must market to the general public who may not be privy to the official sizes.Ring-ring "Hello, big box home improv store, how may I help you?" Uh, you got any 1/2" rebar? "No, we have #4." Uh, OK thanks. I guess I'll try some other place.
Reply:Heat with a cutting torch preheat tips won't take but a few seconds. I use an old wheel hub clamped with one stud as a bending jig clamped to my bench. The hotter the better, in general, so the metal has a chance to relieve itself of stress on the outside of the bend. A little gentle peening would help.Takes longer to unroll the hoses and open / adjust the gas.My only concern is the bed at standing pipe end is going to be constantly bouncing up and down. That's where I'd reinforce. Or consider making the cross bar out of smaller diamter pipe and an elbow to run it inside the vertical pipe. Then just have the rebar in the shape the video shows. A lot less stress on it.Better yet. If the vertical pipe is threaded at the top, get an elbow fitting and a 2 foot piece of threaded pipe. Let the elbow be your pivot on the threads (antisieze) of the vertical pipe.
Reply:Originally Posted by sleeperLOL, something similar happened to me a while back at a rental store. I called about renting a core drill. I asked if they had something big enough to drill a hole for 1 ½ conduit through a concrete wall and the guy said sorry we dont have 1 ½ and hung up on me. A coworker said that they rented a 2 core drill from them before so I called back and asked if they rented core drills and the guy asked what size you need. So before he hung up on me again I asked what sizes do you carry and he said they only carried 2 and 4. I couldnt contain myself and just had to ask why he didnt say that before hanging up on me the first time.
Reply:Originally Posted by RodJHeat with a cutting torch preheat tips won't take but a few seconds. I use an old wheel hub clamped with one stud as a bending jig clamped to my bench. The hotter the better, in general, so the metal has a chance to relieve itself of stress on the outside of the bend. A little gentle peening would help.Takes longer to unroll the hoses and open / adjust the gas.My only concern is the bed at standing pipe end is going to be constantly bouncing up and down. That's where I'd reinforce. Or consider making the cross bar out of smaller diamter pipe and an elbow to run it inside the vertical pipe. Then just have the rebar in the shape the video shows. A lot less stress on it.Better yet. If the vertical pipe is threaded at the top, get an elbow fitting and a 2 foot piece of threaded pipe. Let the elbow be your pivot on the threads (antisieze) of the vertical pipe.
Reply:If you want to make the device portable instead of welding to one specific location on the bench you can use a 3/4 pony pipe clamp. Here's a 3/4'' pipe pony clamp that I bent a 90 on for a portable table light. My eyes aren't what they use to be. Plus you can still use it as pipe clamp. I was just gonna post this in the project forum.Attachment 622051
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1If you want to make the device portable instead of welding to one specific location on the bench you can use a 3/4 pony pipe clamp. Here's a 3/4'' pipe pony clamp that I bent a 90 on for a portable table light. My eyes aren't what they use to be. Plus you can still use it as pipe clamp. I was just gonna post this in the project forum.Attachment 622051 |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:20:08