Fuel tank build question?

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Hey , i had a friend ask me to build him a diesel tank for his pickup. Its one that fits in the bed of a truck with a fill hole and a pump. Does anyone know where to get the threaded insert   for the fill hole that the cap goes on? I think its a bung? Also the threaded insert for the pump?
Reply:Try http://www.southtownsllc.com/FabTech Metalworks10100 Belknap Road Ste. A3Sugar Land, Texas 77498-1140Office: (832) 510-WELDToll-free/Fax: (800) 270-4316www.fabtechmetalworks.com
Reply:What material, steel, local plumbing supply, aluminum,  McMaster Carr online.  How many gallons and what are you using for material.  Unless you are a good friend and doing it for free, or it is a very custon shape I would suggest you could buy one at Tractor Supply or other for a reasonable price. If you build it, also put a drain bung on the bottom.  Fill hole usuall a 2 inch like a home oil tank. If you build it take some pictures for us.      Also if you build it and you decide you want to pressure test it or air it up and spray soapy water on the joints, 3-4 PSI, no more than 5 PSI bad things can happen.Last edited by kolot; 07-30-2012 at 07:55 PM."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:Cool guys! , thanks! It will be tread plate aluminum...he's gonna buy material of course. I was thinking 1/8'' , L shaped where the tool box can be put as close as possible to it. I doubt I can build it cheaper than ts can sell it , but I'm pretty sure i can get tread plate at cost from a local supplier.
Reply:What will you be using for baffles?Lincoln SA200's... at least 15 - 20. They come and go. Growing partial to the "Short Hoods" in my old age. Last count on Short Hoods was 13 in possession.
Reply:Define baffles? Im sure I'm showing ignorance here but , I've build several aluminum structures , repaired pontoons , etc... Thought id try this one for fun. Hobo you seem to know something i don't , please share.
Reply:What is your skill level with alum, and what process are you planning to use. The reason I ask is seal tight welds on an alum transfer tank will be a nightmare for someone new to alum especially running mig.Hobo already asked my other question about baffles. You will need them in the tank, probably at least 2 if not 3.The fill cap/adapter that fits a 2" female can be picked up from most farm supply stores like tractor supply. The pump adapter usually comes with the pump to fit a 2" NPT female. If you don't have it with the pump, call the pump manufacturer..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by setterdogDefine baffles? Im sure I'm showing ignorance here but , I've build several aluminum structures , repaired pontoons , etc... Thought id try this one for fun. Hobo you seem to know something i don't , please share.
Reply:I'll add one other thing, someone chime in here but I think once you get up around 100 or maybe 110 gallons you get into DOT regs and now the tank has to wear a placard so try to keep it under 100 gallons and to be safe check, my numbers might be wrong."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:I was just looking at tanks the other day and I noticed a lot of manufacturers were stating that they were for carrying non flammable liquids. I'm sure it was just a little CYA for them, but they are obviously advertised as fuel tanks. I'd imagine it has to do with being DOT approved.I'm working on modifying a 40 gal alum boat tank to use as a tank to refill my airplane. I'm having troubles finding a 2" aluminum FPT to weld on to put the pump into. For the baffles just use whatever you are using for the outside just with portions at the bottom cut out.
Reply:DSW , I will be be t.i.g. welding the tank. Ive used aluminum mig just a few times and always choose TIG when possible. I hadn't considered baffles honestly but was going to run some bracing ( square tube or angle) through the center. The plan is for 50-75 gal. Baffles will definitely be in the plans now. Im going to use either my lincoln 300/300 or a miller aerowave TIG at work. I will look into what a placard must be posted on , thanks for all advice!
Reply:Originally Posted by BCTimberwolfI was just looking at tanks the other day and I noticed a lot of manufacturers were stating that they were for carrying non flammable liquids. I'm sure it was just a little CYA for them, but they are obviously advertised as fuel tanks. I'd imagine it has to do with being DOT approved.I'm working on modifying a 40 gal alum boat tank to use as a tank to refill my airplane. I'm having troubles finding a 2" aluminum FPT to weld on to put the pump into. For the baffles just use whatever you are using for the outside just with portions at the bottom cut out.
Reply:Using a 2" threaded, thin, electrical conduit nut allows locking of the 2" threaded pipeend of the pump into whatever position is needed for clearance and access.This sidesteps trying to 'time' the threaded AL pipe coupling or bung welded into the tank top, to 'time' or position the pump itself.The AL threads in the bung or coupling are very sensitive to damage.I treat them with extra care, do 'extra' things to not screw them up.Positioning the pump mounting flange/coupling fairly close to a tank corner,then adding a doubler plate under the coupling, fully welded at all edgesprevents cracking and bowing on the tank top. Costs more time and money,that's 'why?' factory tanks don't do this nonsense.The pump hanging up and over adds significant stress to the tank. The steel telescoping tube coming down from the pump needs to have a washer welded on the inlet bottom, to keep the sharp edge of that tube from puncturing the bottom tank wall.It's either 105 or 110 gallons as Kolot sez, for max. capacity--unless youwish to classify this as a bulk DOT tank, the truck and driver as DOT bulkfuel, which can be wholly expensive and difficult.('small' nurse tanks are still DOT covered.....but nobody seems to notice or care)The mounting of the tank to/thru the flooring needs to allow for the truckbed flexing--without cracking the tank mounts and/or the tank wall.Adding a bonding/grounding tab and wire to the tank to ground it tothe vehicle is a good idea.Welding baffles without any flanged, mating legs, straight to the inner tankwall and especially doing only tacks or stitch welds of straight baflfle plates tothe tank wall is prescription for cracking thru the tank wall.Constructing the tank using press broke materials creates a stronger tank.Some of us have done 'a bit' of tank construction/repair. The sillyprattle you've just read is from my own experiences.There's good and bad examples of tank builds on this site.Last edited by dave powelson; 07-31-2012 at 01:24 PM.Reason: additionBlackbird
Reply:dave , good advise , I was going to do all the press break bends that i can to minimize welding. The conduit nut is a great tip for sure , would never have thought that. Im planning on bending my baffles with opposite flanges , by this i mean in a z shape if that makes any sense.