I want to punch something

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So i have a Hobart EZ tig, which is same thing as the Miller Diversion 165.  Very basic home tig machine.I welded up some intercooler aluminum piping with it not more than like 2 months ago, and it was pretty damn easy.  Not as pretty as stainless welds, but not difficult by any means.  I was welding up an intake tonight, and for some reason, i just can't get it cooperate whatsoever.As far as i know, i'm cleaning the seam very well.  I'm using a hand drill with a stainless brush wheel (which i have used to clean mild steel before, so i'm guilty of that).  I'll start my arc, and swirl it around to clean up the metal and then focus in on where i want to tack or start my bead.  It'll puddle up fairly normal.  And i'll go in to add some filler and many times the filler will oxidize instantly, and sit there and just bubble around like a snake firework lol.  I've bumped the argon flow up to 25 CFH, but that just seems way too high, considering i did alot of aluminum in the past with much less gas flow on this same setup.  But the increased flow did seem to help a bit.Only other thing that has changed is that i used 2% thoriated in the past, and now i'm using ceriated and pure (trying both out).My thoughts of what's possibly wrong are these:- My filler rod has gone bad... i even tried sanding my rod down with sand paper, and it didn't help.  I have no clue if this is possible or not, but who knows.  I keep it in the container it came in.- I got bad or different gas at the gas place?  This doesn't seem so cause i can pull beads somewhat decently on flat stock.  though it does seem different than before, and by no means easy like it used to be.- could the tungsten types really make that much of a difference?I've also tried various lengths of extending the tip out, and different angles.  It seems like i'm not getting the gas coverage like i used to, considering the filler will oxidize before i even get it near the puddle.Tomorrow i'm gonna go buy a gas lens and some lanthiated tungsten.  The stuff i'm welding is fairly thin stuff, 16 gauge aluminum piping for car parts.I'm just pissed right now.  I don't get how i was able to whip out a gob of piping just a couple months ago, and now it's like i'm learning all over again... Granted though, i'm still a noob, and all advice is very much appreciated.This is my first welding forum, so i look forward to being part of the community.  Thanks in advance I hate aluminum...
Reply:Jesus, just saw how long that post was.... sorry for the wall of text... i promise all future posts will be much smaller.
Reply:A picture is worth a thousand words... so here's some pictarz:Here's a pic showing a piece of scrap i had practiced on in the past on bottom, and the most recent attempt on top:Some close ups of what i'm talking about.  It's like i'm getting no shielding at all or something:And a close up of my old practice piece.  It's just an example of how easy it used to be.  I know it's not gorgeous, but it also shows how i hardly even cleaned the metal, and still was able to make a decent weld:And here's some beads i did only like 2 weeks ago for a buddy's intake manifold:I hope someone has some good suggestions on what happened.  i guess it's possible i just started failing that bad... but it sure seems like something changed.  My fail started with this change to ceriated / pure and a new fill up of argon.
Reply:Wouldn't be the 1st time I've seen someone get a bad bottle of gas, but I have no idea if thats actually the case. I'd highly suspect that has something to do with this if it happened at the same time. My 1st thought would be to take the gas back and see if they'll swap it out for another cylinder. That would eliminate that from the equation.Your welds on the manifold look cold to me. The beads too high and the toes don't look tied in well at all. From the looks of it there was a lot of mass there, and that machine doesn't have all that much power. I also see any number of craters in the beads from start/stops. I'd suggest you get some scrap and practice a lot more..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Yeah, def cold looking welds.  I made sure (as best i could) that the pieces were at least fused while welding, even though it looks cold.  But it shows at least how i was able to pull a bead at least, even with a piece of alum that was pretty old (the mani).Maybe i'll take my tank down tomorrow when i go to get the gas lens, and have them drain and refill with pure argon.Thanks DSW!  I'm a noob, but i'm determined to get good at this **** lol.
Reply:Tungsten, gas, check the collet and lens. Check the ground.  I'll guess gas, then tungsten. Some welders really like one type of tungsten, some won't work at all with some stuff. Go back to red, to eliminate one possible issue easily.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Don't waste your time with the pure tungsten and an inverter machine. Ceriated or Lanthanated will do it just fine. Or Thoriated if you must. I prefer Lanth with an inverter....not that I have that much time on one. I mainly use Zirconiated on my transformer machine for Alu.Could well be bad gas. Dummies could have put pure AR in a cylinder that used to have CO2 in it. That is a huge no-no. It can definitely ruin your day weld -wise.QamuIs Heg qaq law' lorvIs yInqaq puS
Reply:Thanks guys!  I like this place, should have joined a long time ago.They actually fill up my tank each time i take it in, they don't swap it out, but still could have filled it with something wrong.Tomorrow at lunch i'll refill tank, buy some thoriated and lanthiated (saw that video comparing them all, and indeed lanth looks like the best), and pick up a gas lens.If i'm still having trouble after that... then i think we need to start blaming the welded lol.
Reply:Originally Posted by djuosnteisnThey actually fill up my tank each time i take it in, they don't swap it out, but still could have filled it with something wrong. lol.
Reply:Originally Posted by DDA52Right there may be the culprit, Bet they didn't purge either the old tank or the manifold or lines before they filled it. You either got some of what the other guy before you got or you got some atmospheric contamination. Get the tank refilled. Bet that solves the trouble.
Reply:^ great info here.I'll bring up the idea tomorrow, and see if they purge or are willing to swap tanks.  Thanks a ton.And here's some more pictarz of my current project and the whole purpose behind my struggle On top is a garret 3071r which i made 450 all wheel horse power (awhp) with and 540 all wheel torque (awtq).  On bottom is my new borg warner 88-75.  It's a massive 75 lb/min turbo, and i'm hoping for an additional 200hp!Here's the mani i started.  I'm awaiting some stainless steel sched 10 el's to finish it up, but i have the right angle and positioning between the flanges to give me the desired turbo placement:The rod is like a half inch diameter stainless rod lol.  I want to brace the **** out of this manifold cause the turbo is pretty damn heavy, and i don't want it to crack.here's how the turbo sits in the car:Yeah, the hood should close.. but just barely hahahahaha.  currently i'm building up the intake, and thus all the problems.Thank you guys so much for you help on this.  I plan on sticking around and reading up as much as i can.  I wanna really get good at welding so i can whip out performance parts whenever i need.Okay, i'm drunk now, and going to bed.  I'll post up results tomorrow evening.
Reply:I didn't see it suggested, and it seems likely to be common sense, but have you made sure that all of your connections are tight?  Be certain no gas is leaking or any air is getting in some how.I am sure you meant 25 cfm, you said you knocked it down a bit, I'd try it at 15, who knows.  I know that a few times I've had the argon so high that it was sucking air into the welding area.Tungsten is a pretty big deal when TIG welding.  Personally, if I could, I would go back over those welds on the manifold with more heat, the weld won't just look better if you do.Miller 330 a/bp water cooledI believe in gun control, I hold my gun with two hands.  If you want to know why, click here.Buy American or bye America.
Reply:Originally Posted by djuosnteisnAs far as i know, i'm cleaning the seam very well.  I'm using a hand drill with a stainless brush wheel (which i have used to clean mild steel before, so i'm guilty of that).
Reply:Also looks like you may want to drop down a filler size, whats your ambient air temperature, so your not trying to weld something in a 5 degree shop and sinking all that heat away.
Reply:I suspect you already know these things, but since you were generous enough to share pics of these contaminated melted blobs of aluminum oxide, I'll reiterate what others have already said.  You may want to punch yourself, and then concentrate on properly preparing and handling aluminum for AC TIG welding.First any/all grease, oil, moisture, fingerprints, wax, and any other hydrocarbon must be removed with a solvent such as acetone.  Then the surface oxide must be removed immediately prior to welding with a clean stainless steel wire brush dedicated only to aluminum.  Then use clean gloves to handle the workpiece and filler.   I question the sanding of filler to remove it's oxide, I think you can contaminate the filler with the sanding material, which commonly could be aluminum oxide itself, not sure what may be a good method.  Just use clean fresh filler that has been stored covered and dry.  Finally, weld with Argon you know is good using a gas system that you know does not leak.Do not use any type of metal brush other than stainless steel.  If you insist on using a power brush, do not over do it with too much pressure or high speed, this will cause the formation of excessive oxide due to contact heating in an air enviroment.  I suggest using a hand wire brush, the toothbrush size, and you can tell when you have removed the oxide because at first the surface is hard and slick, then as you get through the oxide the brush grabs and digs into the soft clean aluminum.The joint area can also be dressed to a clean edge with a clean sharp steel file designed for aluminum cutting.  The coarse single cut type.So, if the your gas is actually contaminated, or if you have a leak somewhere in the system, you can test this by making a moderate size puddle on a fairly heavy piece of clean steel or stainless.  You should be able to produce a perfectly clean shiny spot weld.  If not, look at the gas system, then the gas.I suspect this problem is due to improper cleaning, over agressive power wire brushing with a contaminated brush, contamination of the filler from sanding, and general handling contamination of the joint and filler.  Blowing off the wire brushed joint with compressed air could contaminate the joint with oil and/or moisture.Since the discussion of the tungsten came up here, can we please put this to rest.  The type of tungsten electrode you use will not cause this severe oxidation of melted blobs of aluminum.  Every type of electode can be used, and has been used, to successfully make clean AC TIG welds on aluminum.  Pure tungsten can cause severe erratic arcing and arc starting problems on an inverter machine, but this would shut you down before you got to melt any alumimum.  Just forget that pure tungsten exists, it does not perform anyway near lanthanated, thoriated, ceriated, or  zirconiated.Thanks for sharing, looking forward to seeing how you resolve this.
Reply:lol, thanks for the tips pulser.  I'll try em out tonight, hopefully with better results.I still think i'm gonna get fresh argon for the hell of it.  And maybe a bigger tank so i don't have to refill as often... and a new brush... and some acetone.
Reply:dj,You've gotten some good advice here from guys who really do know what they're talking about.  Unfortunately, you've also gotten some hogwash from posters who I would question if they've ever tig welded anything in their life.  Yeah, they "read it in a post somewhere".  Gas flow gentlemen is measured in CFH (cubic feet/hr) not CFM (cubic feet/min).  25 CFH is way too high.The next comment you may not want to hear.You need to spend a lot more time practicing on "non-critical" coupons before you even think about tig welding something on an automobile.Frankly, your "good welds" on that intake manifold leave a LOT to be desired.  Too cold, no consistency, etc, etc.  They are not "acceptable welds" and should not be the standard you compare the rest of your work to.Since I have not seen (in your photos) what I would call a good bead, it's hard to say exactly what your problem is.  I will say that, in my experience, that most inexperienced tiggers first response is to blame the equipment rather than accept the fact that their technique is not good.If a tigger cannot produce a "great bead" on a flat, in-position workpiece, he's fighting an uphill battle when dealing with a circumference weld (tubing).  Arc length, angle of attack, etc, all become more critical than with a flat weld.If you're looking for something/someone to blame for not producing a good weld, I'd suggest you look into a mirror rather than at the equipment.Just because you have a machine doesn't make you a tig welder.  There's a reason tig welding is considered one of the more difficult welding processes to master.PS.  I suspect one of the problems you're having is removing your filler from the covering gas while the filler is still molten.  That will cause contamination of the filler which will contaminate the bead when you go to add additonal filler.Stop blaming the equipment and practice your technique.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Here's something you may want to consider. How are you grinding your tungstens? I have been trying to weld Stainless test coupons and the welds were coming out black, instead of colored like it should be. What I realized is I was using a dedicated sanding belt for grinding the tungstens, and was wearing though the grit on the belt and coating the tungsten with the belt material. You couldn't see it on the tungsten, but it was causing problems. Went to Sears and got a new 100 grit wheel for my bench grinder, now my stainless welds aren't black any more. Maybe that is your problem. Hope this helps.kidtigger24P.S. If you want to punch something, don't punch something solid. I don't think having a cast on your hand would help your cause.  They think I’m crazy, but I know better. It is not I who am crazy. It is I who am MAD!
Reply:Silly question, did you remember to switch to A/C or aluminum setting? It kind of looks like what happens when I have forgot to switch from D/C to A/C and tried to tack a piece of aluminum. -DanOwnerDW Metalworks LLCMiller Trailblazer 302Miller 8RC FeederMiller Passport PlusMiller Dynasty 200 DX W/Coolmate 1Hobart Handler 135Hypertherm PowerMAX 30Smith O/A Torch SetPlus much much more
Reply:Jesus, all this "stare in the mirror" and "punch yourself" **** is ridiculous.I'm not claiming to be a ****ing master... I know i suck.I'm not trying to blame equipment.  Just saying that something seems very much different than when i did sucky welds before.While i think there is some amazing advice here, i think you guys interpreted me incorrectly.  I'll be the first one to tell you i suck at welding.  I know this.  I know i need practice.  I'm also not welding up roll cages or driveshafts... i'm welding up an intake and intercooler piping.I just got back from the gas place.  Showed the guy behind the counter the pics above, and he agreed entirely that there was either a leak in my line, or the argon was contaminated.  My welder only has like maybe 10 hours on it or so, and i never move it around, so a leak in the line is unlikely (though i will still do that stainless spot test when i get home tonight, pulser).I planned on getting a bigger 150cf tank anyway, so he only charged me $100 or so to upgrade from my smaller tank (which still had like 1500psi in it), and said he'd have that gas tested and let me know if it was bad.  He suspected that there was a leak during the vacuum purge.He also filled up my new 150cf tank with "ultra pure" argon (double vacuum purge) for free.I'll triple check all my lines etc, purge the system for a bit on a practice coupon (which i now have lots of lol), and try again.I know my welds aren't pretty, but there was something definitely "wrong" with my system.  Again, not trying to blame equipment... BUT... seriously... something was screwed up.  It wasn't even a matter of "form", it was me not being able to even lay a freaking bead on flat stock.Okay, now you guys can go back to telling me how ****ty of a welder i am...I'll report back tonight with whether or not it's better.
Reply:don't pay too much attention to Sundown.While searching duty cycles I came across a discussion from 2005. There was a poster there named Sundown (George) who was considering buying a bigger TIG welder, a Dynasty 200.This fellow was retired, 65 years old at that time, owned some little cheapie Hobart migs and the Maxstar, which he planned to sell in order to "move up" to the 200 amp Dynasty.One of the posters who seems to know him says the Dynasty 200 will be great for "Hobby Work" A few months later after buying the Dynasty 200, this same Sundown jokingly talks about getting back to practising tig welding on aluminium by " burning some more holes in some sheets"Doesn't sound like a commercial/professional operator to me, just an old retired guy with a hankering to do some hobby welding, no different than many of the hobbyists on here now.Maybe it is a different Sundown though, the one from 2005 is quite polite.
Reply:Originally Posted by djuosnteisn. . .all this "stare in the mirror" and "punch yourself" **** is ridiculous.
Reply:will do.  Thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by worntorndon't pay too much attention to Sundown.While searching duty cycles I came across a discussion from 2005. There was a poster there named Sundown (George) who was considering buying a bigger TIG welder, a Dynasty 200.This fellow was retired, 65 years old at that time, owned some little cheapie Hobart migs and the Maxstar, which he planned to sell in order to "move up" to the 200 amp Dynasty.One of the posters who seems to know him says the Dynasty 200 will be great for "Hobby Work" A few months later after buying the Dynasty 200, this same Sundown jokingly talks about getting back to practising tig welding on aluminium by " burning some more holes in some sheets"Doesn't sound like a commercial/professional operator to me, just an old retired guy with a hankering to do some hobby welding, no different than many of the hobbyists on here now.Maybe it is a different Sundown though, the one from 2005 is quite polite.
Reply:at least he has you believing that!This is the internet, anyone can be whatever they want.  Go read the Miller handbook then spout it back out, you will look like an expert!I'm actually Kim Kardashian pretending to be some guy who is interested in welding.djuosnteisn,sorry about the "punch yourself" comment, that was kinda low.  You've shown you have thick skin and are open to hearing many opinions, good for you.  Again, I look forward to seeing how things work out in your Al TIG.
Reply:The rod would oxidize the instant it melted.  Not when i was pulling it out.  Even the weld puddle would start to bubble up with oxidation occasionally when just pulling bead with no filler.  So imo that means there was oil on the base metal, or oxygen in my argon.. or a leak in my line.  The base metal is a brand new L bend and appears clean (though who really knows).We'll see how it goes... if it's 100% user error, then i doubt there will be any change.  I'll post results.And no hate towards sundown.. i'm sure he's the jesus christ of welding.  I just wanted to make it clear i'm not looking for a crutch or claiming myself as a good welder.  I just want to know wtf was happening.
Reply:I may have missed it, but you need to keep the sandpaper away from your work.  you mentioned you sandpapered your filler.  your work looks like it is roughed up with sandpaper.  that alone would give enough headaches to make you want to cry.....Carry on.
Reply:Originally Posted by worntornI'm actually Kim Kardashian pretending to be some guy who is interested in welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by pulserdjuosnteisn,sorry about the "punch yourself" comment, that was kinda low.  You've shown you have thick skin and are open to hearing many opinions, good for you.  Again, I look forward to seeing how things work out in your Al TIG.
Reply:Originally Posted by worntornat least he has you believing that!This is the internet, anyone can be whatever they want.  Go read the Miller handbook then spout it back out, you will look like an expert!I'm actually Kim Kardashian pretending to be some guy who is interested in welding.
Reply:Now now people.....we're supposed to be talking **** about me here... not each other.
Reply:Worntorn,The poster you're referring to was Sundown (George Bright).Great guy.  Had over 4000 posts on the Hobart board.  Posted up some great projects he had completed.George passed with cancer back in 2007 I believe.  His wife Sunshine, posted for a while after we lost George.  George was a "little" older than I am.  He was born in 1940 whereas I was born in 1947.You're right though.  I'm just a newbie to welding.  Only been tig (heli-arc) welding aluminum since 1966 and learn something new bout every time I pick up a torch.  I've owned Miller Syncrowaves since 1977.  Before that it was a 330 A/BP.  Bought my first inverter tig welder last year.Do have a little more experience with Ox/Ace and stick.  Was taught those processes by my uncle back in the early 50's.  He and my dad ran an auto body shop.  He'd been a hardhat diver/welder at Pearl during WWII.Not on here to impress anyone.  Just trying to pass on a little information learned in the school of hard knocks.  If you don't like what I've got to say, I'd suggest you use that "Ignore this poster" button.Along the way I did happen to spend 22+ years knocking around, in and out of the military special ops community.  Never did get around to the "politically correct" class.  Always called a spade a fulking shovel.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:i would have to say bad gas, also consider using a gas lens set-up (better for gas coverage)
Reply:I'll work on the nude welding pictures and Sundown can come up with some TIG welding photos
Reply:Originally Posted by worntornI'll work on the nude welding pictures and Sundown can come up with some TIG welding photos
Reply:Twas bad ghes indeed ))I was starting to think i was going insane.Here's 2 quicky welds i just spit out (first two beads since hooking up the new tank):bead on bottom flat stock was the first bead.  I purged the system by cranking up the CFH to like 35 40 and tapping the pedal a few times.  the post flow timer just ran the gas a lil bit.The top piece (coupon i guess) was a piece i was trying (and failing) to weld last night.  You can see the difference is night and day.  I just picked up where i had given up last night.Here's a close up of that piece so you can see the difference in welds:Now i know neither of these beads are "good looking" beads, but last night was ridiculous.  I have never had that much trouble trying to make even an ugly bead.  Every time the filler rod got near the puddle, it was insta-turds.So i'm a happy camper.  Oh and there was no other change other than the gas.  And i just briefly checked all the connections, but everything is so new, i just found it hard to believe there was a leak (i know this ignorance will bite me one day... and i accept that).And this was even using pure tungsten.  I forgot to get the lanth while i was at the LWS.Cheers and beers to everyone!  Thanks so much for all the help and advice (and the roasting too  ).I'm gonna go weld now.  I'll try to post up some more videos of my terminator dog later.  And i'll definitely try to contribute to the board and community much more now!  This is a nice place.
Reply:Glad you found your problem. Keep up the practice , it will pay off. Btw where abouts are you located ? I didn't see it in your profile.
Reply:MUCH better.  BTW, a leak made just as much sense as bad gas in this one.  If it's downstream of the valve, you'd never notice the loss, and surprisingly, while the gas is flowing, air can get sucked INTO the leak.  Seriously though, that manifold's welds are way cold for TIG, and that change in direction kills me to look at.  Now that the aluminum is wetting like it should, its time to keep up the practice.
Reply:"So how about you posting some pics of your Tig welding..." http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=45504  Post # 34, in a thread by Zapster showing some of his beautiful work nonetheless. Zapster is a tough act to follow (maybe impossible)I started in with TIG earlier this year, have done stick welding and O/A welding for many years.
Reply:Worntorn,Yup, you didn't learn a damn thing...  That's a sure sign of...well, I'll let you fill in the rest.--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:Originally Posted by djuosnteisnTwas bad ghes indeed ))I was starting to think i was going insane.Here's 2 quicky welds i just spit out (first two beads since hooking up the new tank):bead on bottom flat stock was the first bead.  I purged the system by cranking up the CFH to like 35 40 and tapping the pedal a few times.  the post flow timer just ran the gas a lil bit.The top piece (coupon i guess) was a piece i was trying (and failing) to weld last night.  You can see the difference is night and day.  I just picked up where i had given up last night.Here's a close up of that piece so you can see the difference in welds:Now i know neither of these beads are "good looking" beads, but last night was ridiculous.  I have never had that much trouble trying to make even an ugly bead.  Every time the filler rod got near the puddle, it was insta-turds.So i'm a happy camper.  Oh and there was no other change other than the gas.  And i just briefly checked all the connections, but everything is so new, i just found it hard to believe there was a leak (i know this ignorance will bite me one day... and i accept that).And this was even using pure tungsten.  I forgot to get the lanth while i was at the LWS.Cheers and beers to everyone!  Thanks so much for all the help and advice (and the roasting too  ).I'm gonna go weld now.  I'll try to post up some more videos of my terminator dog later.  And i'll definitely try to contribute to the board and community much more now!  This is a nice place.
Reply:I'm in albuquerque nm.No real adjustments on my machine.  It's tig for dummy's lol.  Dial knob for current (rated up to 1/4", but i've done thicker already) and a switch for AC (alum) and DC (steel).Just finished my intake   I started out welding like normal, and then i started getting "stylish" and stacking dimes.  I would start a puddle, then back off a bit, dab a fair amount, then heat up and melt it in... step and repeat.I'll post some pics as soon as the coupon cools off  (why do we call them coupons?).
Reply:Originally Posted by wintermuteWorntorn,Yup, you didn't learn a damn thing...  That's a sure sign of...well, I'll let you fill in the rest.--Wintermute
Reply:Here's the finished pics:Here's where i started trying the stacked dimes approachI really like stacked dimes now.  It honestly offers alot of control cause you can govern the speed.  Before i would basically just do it like steal, where a bead is started and you just roll with it.  But with aluminum, once the metal becomes heat soaked, the bead will just continually speed up, and you end up moving too fast.Stack of dimes lets you deposit, melt in, move on...  So much more control.  I love my foot pedal Here's the crux of the job, the MAF flangeIt was actually easier than i thought, using my new stack of dime skills lol.Here's my work station.  The stick welder in the back is what i used like a year ago.  I actually bought a pseudo tig setup for it, but i could never do AC aluminum, so i bought the hobart ez tig (re-badged miller diversion 165, but much cheaper).In car picSo yup... time to post this up on my car forum and then bed Again, thanks for your guys' help!  I'm eager to learn some more from you guys
Reply:time for down pipe today
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloCool. Good to know you found the start to your issues. Now, let's move on to some simple advice for welds. Not sure what adjustments are available to you with that particular machine. But to work on the bead shape, and 'flow' of the weld, try some things. Set the amps pretty high; Use the pedal to modulate. Start a puddle with a heavy foot; get the puddle formed QUICKLY with a good dose of heat. Dab, and back the heat down to like 1/3. Repeat as you move steadily forward. You should start to see some dimes forming. Once you get that figured, work on consistency of dip and move timing. It should start to come together quickly for you for the most part. Try to use a dedicated SS wire brush. If you use a grinder, or sand paper, then after you grind, hit it with the brush to clean off any aluminum oxide from the grinder. If you have upslope and downslope settings, try to set them for a very short time duration; .3 second ish..... Use the pedal for modulation, and speed. Learn to keep that torch pointed at the weld for 5-10 seconds to do have the postflow gas do it's job. It REALLY makes a difference on a nice part like a turbo.For the rest of the peanut gallery, it's time to switch gears and give advice on the welds. THANK YOU, Paul.
Reply:Originally Posted by djuosnteisntime for down pipe today
Reply:something for the back of your mind when the time comes....Your MAF is in a very short section of pipe, right next to the filter.  You might have a bit of trouble tuning without 6" or so straight pipe on either side of the sensor.... Or your sensor type might not care at all.. Just something to pop into your head if the ocasion ever arises that your MAF readings are irratic.Welds look good to me! But I am an uneducated consumer, not a welder yet.  I can wipe snot on a piece of metal with a cheap MIG, but have not touched a tig yet, though I am set to trade for a syncrowave 250 this friday if nothing falls through.  I will be working on pretty much the same exact types of projects as you. Aluminum IC piping / end tanks / bov flanges, intake / exhaust manifolds, air ducts for IC's, v-band turbo outlets / exhausts etc.  I will practice quite a bit before I am brave enough to offer any pics to the experts to give back "tough love" feedback!
Reply:Yeah, actually the maf location is very similar to the other intake i was using before (made out stainless, and also home built).  I didn't have any trouble calibrating it, and it behaved quite well.  Hopefully this new intake behaves in a similar manner BOV flanges were difficult for me for quite a while, but i tackled one saturday, and it came out pretty damn well actually.  I'll finish up that cold pipe, and post some pics of that as well.  Sunday was spent pulling a motor at a buddy's house, and as soon as i'm done breaking it down,i'll get back to my project.Jd, You'll love having a TIG man!  Aluminum is so easy to work with (drill & cut etc), that once you learn to weld it, you'll become your own aftermarket, lol.  Only other thing i could possibly suggest, is picking up a used electric oven off craigslist or something (i got one for $100).  Then you can get a cheap powder coat kit and you'll be 100% legit.