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Hello, this is my second time posting here since I joined in 2008 when I bought my Miller Dynasty 200DX. At that time, I got the machine second-hand from a fellow who had used it for a DIY aluminum boat welding project.Shortly after, I switched jobs, moved cross-country, and got access to a fabrication shop with larger Miller Synchrowave units. When I moved for that job, I didn't ship anything I couldn't pack in a cardboard box, so I left my TIG and MIG behind. I enjoyed welding with the TIG machines in the shop so all was well. Now I've switched jobs again, moved back and am reunited with the Miller Dynasty 200DX.As a result of this short history, I don't have a ton of time on this machine. I am working on a project now that involves welding together a tube frame made out of 6061-T6 1.25in SQ x .125 WALL aluminum square tube. I started welding the frame together last week and ran into difficulty melting the aluminum and developing a puddle. I started out with the max amps at 135, and gradually bumped it up attempt after attempt until I could melt the aluminum enough to make a puddle, dab in a bit of filler and make a tack weld. I finally ended up at 165 amps before I was able to successfully melt a small surface puddle and added a dab of filler.I was confused by this and was hesitant to continue bumping the amperage up until I had a better idea of what was preventing me from welding in the amperage range I had expected to be using (115-135A). The following day I decided to try cleaning things up even more and try adding more heat. I had been only using an aluminum-only wire brush with aluminum wire bristles; the second day I also begun carefully wiping down the brushed-clean surface with acetone and a clean rag. I wasn't able to melt the two pieces to be fused along their to-be-welded-edges and form a puddle until turning up the max amps to the machine's maximum 200A.The only thing I could think of to possibly explain some of the need to bump the amperage so high was excessive heat-sinking into the bodies of the parts to be welded and from there, into the steel welding table they were resting on. The table top is a 4'x10'x1/2" plate of hot roll steel. The table plate and steel frame start out at about 55 degrees Fahrenheit (what the shop air temp falls to overnight when the heat is off). Specs of the welding setup are below:Miller Dynasty 200DX, 1-Phase 230VAC Hook-UpMode AC, Default Settings for Sub-Menus200Amp Max, Foot-Pedal ControlledWeldcraft WP-17 Torch3/32 2% Lanthanated Tungsten3/32 5356 Filler100% Argon, 18CFHNo Preheat6061-T6 1.25in SQ x .125in WALL Tube FrameI ordered a 250degF temperature-marking chalk pen to use next time and experiment with preheating with a hardware store MAPP gas torch.I feel a bit uneasy about how the welding went and how I had to crank up the amps so far beyond the expected range. I'm also concerned that the welds at T-joints in the tube frame really struggled to get enough heat even at 200. The tube-end to tube-end butt welds melted alright once the amps were at 200, but the T-joints were not good.The entire frame ends up about 8ft x 2ft in mostly one plane and needs to be as precise as I can practically make it. I am clamping the pieces to the table to make sure I'm welding them in a common, flat plane with respect to each other. My guess is that this is causing more heat to be sunk out of the work piece and into the table that might otherwise be desired.Any advice or constructive criticism with regard to not getting a puddle formed until 200Amp instead of the expected 125Amp range? Thank you for any help.Rob Attached Images
Reply:What's your balance set at?Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:If I were doing it, I would be running 70-75% heat, 150 Hz and at least 170-180 Amps - crank it up and use the pedal. No preheat needed.- "If ya can't be handsome, ya may as well be handy!" HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln SP125+Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38
Reply:Thank you for the posts. I turned the machine on and took pictures of the AC Waveform section settings. Balance is 80. AC Frequency is 120. I have not made any changes since the welding so these are the settings I was using. Attached Images
Reply:I see your problem , You have the pulser turned on bud !! turn that bad boy off and then try it . Push the pulser button until you see the bottom light go off .Settings my not be letting you put enough heat into the work piece.Last edited by possessed; 12-27-2011 at 07:18 PM.
Reply:One of two things.Either your Dynasty is not putting out the amps it's supposed to (not likely) or you're not giving it enough pedal.You should easily be able to weld that joint at 130-140A.I generally run my balance at 75-80%. AC frequency 80-120. No pulse.200A with a foot pedal will still blow right thru that 1/8" aluminum. Even with a finger controled on/off switch I wouldn't recommend more than 160A for that weld and you're only going to be "on" for a split second.Also, might want to try putting your work lead directly on the workpiece.PS Was posting when you put up the last pictures. Possessed is right. Turn the pulser off. Don't need it for alum.Last edited by SundownIII; 12-27-2011 at 07:19 PM.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:possessed and SundownIII, thank you for the help. I will turn off the pulser and try again.
Reply:I went back and turned the machine on again and took pictures of the Pulser section settings. Not exactly my proudest moment. I think I can see why I was not getting a lot of heat in the aluminum. The pedal was pressed all the way down and I was sitting on it, but it looks like the Pulser settings kept me at only 50Amp welding current for 60% of the arc time (if I understand it correctly). The other 40% of the time I would spike up to 200Amp - what I thought I was welding at 100% of the time. Looks like it was user error on my part.Thank you again. I'll try the welding again with the Pulser off. Attached Images
Reply:Ahh, It happens to all of us sometimes .
Reply:Not knowing a darn thing about it... it seems to me that the machine is in part responsible - looks like too little critical information being displayed... unless you step through several menus = not great.Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:Add in a lot of fancy gizmos and you increase the possibility of operator error. The ones that crack me up are the people who are insistent that they are doing everything right, then after someone suggests the, apparently correct, solution, the poster never replies back again. We all learn through these posts, not just the guy with the problem.
Reply:Rick,One thing you said was spot on, "Not knowing a darn thing about it....".Actually, the front panel/settings on the Dynasty are quite intuitive.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:But the pulser is still on. I believe you need to hold down the Pulser button until all the lights are off.From Miller's 200DX manual, pg 27:ON - When illuminated, this LED indicatesthe pulser is on.Press switch pad until desired parameterLED is illuminated.To turn Pulser off, press and releaseswitch pad until the On LED turns off.
Reply:Im sure it was just on so that he could show us the setting. After the background light is lit, one more press of the pulser button will turn it off. Press it again and it turns back on, and jumps back to the peak setting. I dont like it as much as the sync 250's but with limited face space its probably the best solution.BTW, to anyone else wanting to ask a question take notes, this is how its done right here. All the information laid out in the first post, pictures of the machine face, and the problem was sorted out very quickly.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Dont feel bad man, you said it was a new machine. And these type of welders can be tricky until you get the hang of them.HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Idealarc SP250Miller 180 AC StickBy farmall:They should have held the seagull closer to the work, squeezing evenly for best deposition.
Reply:Too many bells and whistles for me......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:So with the pulser off all was well?miller syncrowave 250hobart handler 140home made 400 amp engine driven in progress...
Reply:Originally Posted by jdchmielSo with the pulser off all was well?
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterToo many bells and whistles for me......zap!
Reply:Turning off the pulser allowed me to turn down the max amps to 140 and melt the pieces of tube along the joints as originally intended. Thank you all for the help.
Reply:I use a Dynasty 300DX at work, and we weld a lot of that sort of tube. Typically my settings are:250-280 amps, (but tend to run around 210-220 once puddle is established) 120 Hz for AC frequency, and 85% DCEN balance. No pulse. You should be able to weld it just fine, but I'd basically set the machine on kill, to make sure you get good the puddle started and achieve good penetration. I think your initial settings are a bit low, and you risk simply laying the bead on top without adequate penetration. I use a 1/8" ceriated tungsten with a fairly blunt pointed tip.Proud to support Reliable Sheet Metal Works, in Fullerton, CA.Full service sheet metal fabrication serving Orange County since 1926.http://www.reliablesheetmetal.com
Reply:Hey elbob, I see you are in LI, NY. If you need a hand I am accross the sound in CT. about a mile away from the Fairfield beach. I have a Dyn 300DX. I just did some of the same tube for a resturant rack I had to fix cause someone ran it over with a truck (at least it looked that way). I had my amps at 225, Bal 77(needed a little more cleaning cause of the lack of cleaning of the rack by the employees, I won't eat there), and about 125 hz. I don't like to hang around and wait for a puddle. Hence the higher amps. If I can't get a puddle in less than three seconds I turn the heat up. Hot and fast is the key for me.T.J.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:For the life of me, I can't understand why some posters need 200+A to weld 1/8" wall aluminum tube, especially using a foot pedal.OP sure as he11 doesn't need a Dynasty 300/350/280 to weld that tube.200A would be high, even if using a on/off button and bump welding it.140A @ 120 HZ will get him a puddle right now.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIFor the life of me, I can't understand why some posters need 200+A to weld 1/8" wall aluminum tube, especially using a foot pedal.OP sure as he11 doesn't need a Dynasty 300/350/280 to weld that tube.200A would be high, even if using a on/off button and bump welding it.140A @ 120 HZ will get him a puddle right now.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIFor the life of me, I can't understand why some posters need 200+A to weld 1/8" wall aluminum tube, especially using a foot pedal.OK - I have the same machine and have been welding 1/8 inch 3003 for several months. One thing I see that wronge is that yo have the pulser on. This will really rob you of heat input. Push the button untill the pusler is "OFF". Try these settings - they work great for me !balance 70-75% , pulser off, 3/32 electrode (thoriated or cereated- sharp point) about 10-12 cfh with a gas lense, max current about 160-170 amps. frequency 20 to 150 hz as you like. I find I dont het enough penetration unless I am about 150 hz. Put your ground clamp on the work- not the table.(to avoid ugly burn marks) When you start the weld- push the pedal down about 80-90% for about 2 secconds till you see the edges of the joint melting down- then add a big drop of rod. Then let it cool for a moment. The resume again and continue your bead. ont be afraid to put your dips in pretty fast. If you cant keep up then back off the pedal. You should notice that after about 3 secconds you will have to back off the pedal to about 1/2 (from 3/4 or more) Since your welds will be short you will have to make appropriate adjustments in the pedal. Your work pieces will draw away most of the heat-the table wont sink so much. If it bothers you then put the work on some stainless blocks.Tim |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:19:40