171 ft of fencing need advice

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Ok so im pricing out 171 ft of fencing, with two gates, the fencing is following the grade of the ground, im using 1 1/2" square tubing for the posts, channel on top and bottom, 1/2" square spindles 4" on center, posts 6' apart. Fence is 4' high with a molded cap rail on top. My first question is this, how deep should I put the posts in he ground? The job is in southern CT. I plan on using cement to anchor the posts,  how deep should I dig the holes, and how wide?My second question is what is the best way to fabricate these panels? My thought was to mark the position of each post, then using a level and tape measure, get the angle of each panel, then fabricate them in the shop, each panel having one post, and just drop them in the holes one at a time, level, weld, pour cement.  That was my thought, any one have any other way that would be easier?And my last question is what is a ballpark linear foot price form a fence like this? Including materials,  Fab, painting, and install? I just want to see if my numbers are in the right areathanks for any advice. http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:You probably already know this but... be careful about following the grade of the ground with a fence.  For it to look right you should pay attention to the line of the fence top rail and make it flow well in spite of variations in the grade.  I put up a fence once and measured the posts to keep their height above the ground to a fixed constant - looked terrible.  Every fence I have built since I flow the grade as closely as I can without causing major changes in the angle of the top rail.  This leads to some gaps and different heights above grade for some posts but is infinitely more attractive if the ground isn't mostly flat.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:Ok I will take that into consideration. But   This is for a fencing company so ill do whatever they spec. http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:So I came up with $35/ft does that sound about right? http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:$35 is about the going rate for pool fence out here. Minimum 24" depth, more is better, a few short holes won't make a lot of difference if you run into rocks. Be sure to include a hard dig clause into your contract. I wouldn't bid them for under $50 a foot, but I don't enjoy that type of work a lot. Might try calling some pool fence companies in your area to see what they are getting. Also, might try bidding it just a bit higher to cover the unexpected as well as a little profit on the job
Reply:Make sure the bottom of each hole is below the frost line for your area. If the ground freezes below the post/concrete, the post will heave.Safety 3rdGump
Reply:Originally Posted by GumpMake sure the bottom of each hole is below the frost line for your area. If the ground freezes below the post/concrete, the post will heave.
Reply:$35/ft seems awfully low for what you quoted.  You will come out upside down on that deal. I could 35/ft to fab it. Isn't that less than 7000 bucks.  You need to be check you numbers.
Reply:So, you really don't know how to do this, but you're doing it for a fencing company? (cough, cough..)-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:When I do Fence or ornamental Rails I try to do them in sections...  I would do 6' sections because your post(s) are 6' apart.  Plus its easier for transporting.Pricing or a Estimate on a job like this...  I charge $50.00 a foot.  That $50.00 covers, Material, Fabrication, Welding, Blending, Priming, and Painting.  Then I get $200.00 every 10' or $20.00 a foot for installation.  Some guys say Im expensive But...  Im very busy and I do alot of work in High Class areas in Jersey.  As far as Anchoring...  I would Dig or use a Auger a hole maybe 8"X8" get below the frost line, and I would put maybe 2" of Gravel at the base.  Sakrete makes a Concrete that you mix in the hole,  Just Mix it up Vibrate it out and put a decent finish on it.   Thats What I would do.Some Blue , Some Red & Some GreyProverbs 16:2-3.2 "All a person’s ways seem pure to them, but motives are weighed by the Lord. 3 Commit to the Lord whatever you do, and he will establish your plans."
Reply:Originally Posted by thejonn2524Setting fence post at 42" is a bit much. Many fencing companies set their post in tight bored holes and only concrete the corners or posts holding gates.
Reply:Around here it's almost all pipe fence and t-posts.Rates are $11 to $12 per foot just for materials. Posts are 2 7/8 corners down 30 inches and intermediate posts 18 inches to 24 inches. Top rail is also 2 7/8 sched 40.Run a line along the bottom to align the posts in the augered holes, usually nine inch diameter. Set a top line to roughly follow terrain as mentioned earlier for top rail. Use portasaw to cope and weld to the top rail.Fill holes for posts about 1/4 with water add dry concrete mix, more water, more concreted and then push piece of ground rod down through the concrete to mix it. Get the air out and this will stand for 30 years. I know had to pull some old fence done this way and it was concrete all the way down and would be there for another 30 no problem.$35/foot is WAY too low for that kind of job.Check out HarveyLacey.com he's an expert at building fences.Last edited by Stampeder; 08-15-2012 at 11:54 PM.Sign on East Texas payphone: Calls to God 40 cents......it's a local call...
Reply:I just bid a job @ $50 per liner foot for apartment style (CHEEP CHEEP CHEEP)  rail for balcony's that is only 42" high guardrail.    thats super cheep 5/8" 14 ga pickets and 1"x2"  top and bottom rail with sliding ends to fit the gaps within 1/2"    basic single coat enamel paint not done particularly well, just to keep it from rusting until they can finish coat at the end of the project.that price is also in a quantity of 3000+ feet and 46,000lbs of material.i wouldn't even THINK of trying to slope the fence to the ground at that price or even DOUBLE that price.    I would simply step it down between posts.    IF you want to do a GREAT job i like to bed the bottom of the tubes in gravel for drainage then concrete on top.    Here in CA anything more than 2' is over kill.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:King Metals would be a good place to start, here's a link to their fence panels.  This will give you a base.http://www.kingmetals.com/Catalog/Ca...ogDetailId=303I worked for a company that landed a contract to build fencing around a small college.  I think it was three miles of fence total.  Build your one panel and then jig off that panel.  Every other panel had the post (I believe) on each end with one in the middle.  When you get everything cut you can build fence panels pretty quick; I would say 10-15 minutes a panel tops.$35.00 a foot sounds cheap, I would figure up all of the material and hardware cost out right.  Your going to have some $$ tied up in shop materials, saw blades, grinding disc, rags, mineral spirits, paint, etc.  I would probably add a 10% overage for materials and shop supplies.  I like to figure up my exact cost if possible.  You need to have an idea of what kind of prophet you are making before you start.
Reply:I have been using King Metals for awhile now...  I honestly dont care for there Customer Service.  I recently started using a Company called "Custom Ironworks" out of Arizona,  Great People, Great Prices, and very nice Customer Service.  http://customironworks.com/Some Blue , Some Red & Some GreyProverbs 16:2-3.2 "All a person’s ways seem pure to them, but motives are weighed by the Lord. 3 Commit to the Lord whatever you do, and he will establish your plans."
Reply:I realize by now that $35/ft is too cheap. I actually gave them a higher price as a base price and might  even go higher than that.   I don't really know what's the frost line in CT, I have to do some research,  I was thinking 36" would be enough.  One thought I had (the way my old boss used to do it) was tomake every other panel with two posts, then the other panels with no posts.  Or just make every panel with one post, i like the second option better. http://www.philswelding.com