|
|
I'm willing to jump into a projects that I've never even seen someone else bring to completion, much less ones that I've got the correct experience or training for. I guess it's a blessing and a curse. (And in a little bit, some of you will be able to tell me which side of that is going to come out more true with this project.)I got a Hobart Handler 140 (120v) MIG welder. I rented a couple of videos to figure out how to use it. From there, I started planning a wrought-iron style fence for my front yard. The fact that the fence was going to require about 3,000 individual welds didn't occur to me, right away. The fact that I was planning on putting my first project right out in front of my own yard and house occurred to my wife, but I told her there was nothing to worry about. We'd plant vines on it, which would hide the imperfections. And if it's still ugly, I could always tear it down and sell it for scrap.I'm posting this to show the process I went through -- it might be useful to other weekend hobbyists who are thinking about a project like this. I'm also interested in more-experienced guys' opinions on what I might have done wrong, along the way. It's too late to fix most of the problems on this project, at this point, but I'm not so self-impressed that I think I didn't get any (probably many) of the parts wrong.Here's the front yard. I've got a retaining wall that I used to think was 40 feet wide (more on that later), and stands out about 20 feet in front of the house. I had a neighbor with a wrought iron style fence on his wall, and my thinking was that I could pretty much copy his project -- but at a fraction of what he probably paid. Here's his fence.His fence uses 3/4" pickets and 1-1/4" supports to make 9' sections. I decided I wanted a slightly 'lighter' look, and would use 5/8" pickets and 1" supports. I decided to add a support in the middle of each of my 8' sections so that there wasn't more than a 4' span -- as insurance against sag, since I was working with 16 gauge steel.
Reply:I bought about $400 worth of steel and supplies, all told -- 20' lengths of 5/8" and 1" square tubing, cast iron finials from King Metals, some steel base plates, masonry bolts, hinges, decorative pieces and a gate top. I also got primer and paint from King -- I figured they'd have the right stuff for this kind of work.I needed to make the first set of (240) pickets the same length. I made them 30" each, so that I could cut eight from each length with no leftovers. With a 4" finial and a 2" gap underneath each picket, I'd have a 36" fence. To save myself from having to measure over and over, I bolted my saw to a piece of wood and screwed in an L-bracket as a stop. That way I could just keep feeding the length of steel to the stop, chop, and repeat. I had to finesse it with some spacers, but it worked.Both my fold-down tables come down to the same height, making this sort of cutting easier:My cutting jig:Stacks of cut pickets:The cold cut saw is a pleasure to use.Then I had to attach the finials in a way that would be consistent and easy to repeat (and repeat, and repeat). I set up a kind of goofy-looking jig to hold the two pieces in relation to each other. I just had to drop the parts in, clamp on two vise-grip style clamps, and weld the four edges.Simple, right?
Reply:Well, a couple of things. First, I'm still a terrible welder. MIG is easy, but I don't make it look that way. I'm getting better -- 3000 welds has to be good for something -- but the first set were welding steel to cast iron, which is never going to produce great fusion. But I guess this is the way it's done.Here's the fledgling welder in his garage:I tore apart a few samples to see what kind of job I was doing. It was nice when my welds were holding up as the cast iron was tearing apart:The results? Fortunately, I don't have any close-ups. But let me say it again: I'm still a lousy welder. The long and the short of it was that all four sides needed some grinding on all 240 pickets.I set up a station where I could grind while sitting. It's pretty mind-numbing work.The good news is that those welds seem to be holding up just fine.
Reply:Pretty soon I had lots of stacks of pickets:And the basic idea of the frame that the pickets would attach to was pretty simple. And I knew how I wanted the fence to look, pretty much:Then it was time to figure out how I was going to put all of this together. Not every section was going to be the same. I knew I needed a jig, but it was going to have to be flexible enough to hold the pieces for different types of panels. I ended up going with loose blocks to set the picket spacing. The frame pieces were dropped into fixed guides. I could make longer or shorter sections with the same jig.Maybe that's the way it's usually done? I have no idea. I couldn't find any good pictures of fence jigs when I went googling.
Reply:This is what the jig looked like. I've never seen a jig for a fence like this, so I might be close to what others do, or I might be off by a country mile.Then, there was a lot more welding -- and grinding -- all over again. Early on, someone had warned me that I might not understand how labor-intensive this project would be. They were right.But I worked in my spare time. Fitting. Welding. Grinding.And oh, bending.When you only weld on one side of the lateral pieces, the metal curves when it cools. I'd been warned about it. I came up with a quick and dirty system for straightening the sections, clamping the piece under a stiff piece of stock to one of my tables and then bending it in the other direction. If I did this on four different locations on the section, it seemed to straighten out pretty evenly. There was a lot of trial and error. It seemed like a good test for the structural welds.Again, there might be a simpler and more effective way to do this. I was figuring it out as I went along.Here's my first completed section, prior to grinding:Next up, the accident. I jump up on top of one of the steel tables to get a piece of stock down from the rafter shelving and I slip. It's a direct hit to the shin on the edge of the table. At first, it feels like I've maybe broken the bone. But no, I can put weight on it. But when I take my hand away from where it hurts, I'm surprised to see a hand-shaped blood stain on my jeans. By the time this picture was taken, the (tiny) cut was under control, but you can see from my sock how much blood had been there initially.Not a cutting accident. Not a grinding accident. A jumping up on the table accident. Go figure.
Reply:All right, so the sections are stacking up. Phase one of the fence is going to be all the sections that sit on top of the wall. If I get that done reasonably well, I'll connect the fence to the house on either side and put in some gates.Testing how they'll join:Stacking them up:And then, it kind of feels like you're done -- but of course you're not. Each section has to be cleaned, scuffed, primed and then painted. Everyone hates painting. Usually, I kind of like it. But hand painting a fence is very tedious work. And then a 50' tape measure arrives in the mail, and I get the big surprise. I measured the wall initially with a 25' tape measure, and -- I'm still not sure how -- I got the measurement wrong by exactly one foot. My wall is 39', not 40'. I've already got five eight-foot sections put together. The answer? I cut the middle one shorter by three pickets, and move the little center anti-sag leg over by six inches. I'm not thrilled to have failed such a basic thing as 'measure twice, cut once,' but there you go. Fortunately, I'm working with 4" sections and 4 goes into 12 just fine. Unfortunately, I'll always notice that one little leg that's between two pickets, not behind one. But there you go.
Reply:Now the project goes from super-slow to super-fast. Putting together a fence takes lots of time. Putting it up (in the case of this one, at least) is maybe two hours' work.Because it's C-shaped, I'm able to weld the sections together and let them simply stand on the wall. The big question is whether they're going to be sized right. Once I've established that part of it is okay, I'll slide the thing over a little, drill the holes for the base plates, and mount those to the top of the wall before I get the fence set in position again and weld the legs to the base plates.The first two form one corner:I moved around some portable welding curtains I picked up cheap to keep from blinding the neighbors. (You can't see it here, but I also had eye protection on the lawn side. This picture was taken with everything out of position.)Finally getting some idea of how the finished project is going to look:An even clearer idea. There in the middle you can see that moved anti-sag leg:
Reply:And that's about where I currently am. Next step is to finally secure it to the wall. Then I get started on the part that goes over uneven terrain and is going to need holes dug and concrete poured.The whole thing:And the reason it was built. The little guy immediately tried to climb it. I guess it's only a matter of time before he succeeds.Once it's finished, my wife can take over with the landscaping part. We're going to pull a lot of the plants out and put in more grass for the kid. I think we're going to have vines grow on the fence itself, but I'm happy with the fact that (as a first project), it's not really going to need vines to hide its flaws. They'll just be there because we want them.Comments? Criticisms? Things I missed that are going to bite me in the behind? After all this typing, I'll be grateful for any of the above.
Reply:I dig the fence. It came out very well, you'd never know it was not done by a professional fence company. (well, maybe you would, it probably looks better. Some fence companies are half assed.)R"I heard that!!"
Reply:I've looked at professional fences, and I would bet money that yours is built better and looks better. Great job.Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G. I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.
Reply:Jack--I'm impressed by your efforts--tackling a project with noprior experience.Since you asked......1-8' span in 1 x 1 from a side force strength standpoint; 1 x 1 is on the light side. 2-adding soft, vinyl square plugs (not the hard plastic gypo ones) to the open ends of the picket bottoms,will help stop rust staining on the concrete wall, etc. If the tube I.D.'s are notde-burred, those cutoff burrs really help retain the plugs.3-Picket beams bowing from welding--after fixturing in my fixture (which sets automatic picket spacing for 1/2" thru1" square pickets), the beams are pre-stressed, made tobow via shimming underneath--in a convex condition which is oppositeto the concave condition that will occur from weld contraction.-four corner tacks are made, starting sequentially at the outer ends of the panel, working towards the center-the beams are then pre-stressed--more to bow them the 'wrong' way-alternating top and bottom of the beam--a single weld along the lengthof the beam--not 2 welds across the beam (as you did), attaches the picketto the beam. Again, this is done sequentially working from both ends of thepanel to the middle, alternating from top to bottom of each picket attachment-welding across the length of the beam, as you did, can produce a tremendousamount of bowing--as you noticed.---some care, study and practice in doing this pre-stressing, yields panelsthat can be flat within 1/8" total; negating the need for any re-work.4-Prepping for paint-before welding--much easier to do than after assembly.-the steel is cleaned after cutoff, depending on the quality level of the job,I may also swab the tube insides to remove oil. On pickets butting into thetops or bottoms of beams, this is a must--IMHO.....which few 'professional'shops bother with--but, I do not have problems with liquid painting orpowder coating--then.-I'll have the cuts either sandblasted or rough up all the sides and cornerswith a 3M abrasive pad (AVOS or Carborundum) in angle grinder.--final prep after welding, may only consist of a lacquer thinner and metalprep wipe down.????Maybe prior to your next project, you could query this forum in advance?You'll get all manner of responses, with the hardest part being trying toseparate the wheat from the chaff!Blackbird
Reply:Dave,Can we see your jig?
Reply:I agree, looks a lot better than most of the "professional" fences I see around here. I think you have the same problem I do with my work, you know where something just isn't quite right so you notice it every time you see it even though nobody else ever will.HH 187Miller Bluestar1EAHP AlphaTig 200X
Reply:Hey, Jack!I don't know if I'm more impressed with your energy and confidence or your documentation. As another guy trying to learn the art of welding, I really enjoyed reading your post. Sure your will hear some tips from the pros, but on the other hand I'm sure you know a lot more today than you did when you started. Nothing like experience. As an old IT friend of mine used to say, if we put in the absolute best program possible today, by tomorrow you will find ways to improve it. Same with our projects, and the learning is the reason we do it.Keep up the good work. I learned a lot and look forward to the other tips that are sure to be posted.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Great project! Very ambitious for a "first." Work HARDER, not smarter! ------------------------ Miller Bobcat 250Millermatic 251Lincoln Precision TIG 185Hypertherm PM 600Hobart 135 HandlerOxweld 400 FlameMaster
Reply:Awesome job Jack and as wb4rt indicated, great project documentation! Sorry about the shin too.Only problem is it's not high enough. If that little guy has as much determination as his dad, he'll be over in no time.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Deja Vu ..... I just saw this on another forum.......... Nice job again.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenWell, a couple of things. First, I'm still a terrible welder. MIG is easy, but I don't make it look that way. I'm getting better -- 3000 welds has to be good for something -- but the first set were welding steel to cast iron, which is never going to produce great fusion. But I guess this is the way it's done.Here's the fledgling welder in his garage:I tore apart a few samples to see what kind of job I was doing. It was nice when my welds were holding up as the cast iron was tearing apart:The results? Fortunately, I don't have any close-ups. But let me say it again: I'm still a lousy welder. The long and the short of it was that all four sides needed some grinding on all 240 pickets.I set up a station where I could grind while sitting. It's pretty mind-numbing work.The good news is that those welds seem to be holding up just fine.
Reply:Man I like the write up !!! Great work, great fence, great presentation. A+
Reply:Thats a nice looking fence. For it a first project it came out very nice. I was just wondering where you got the cast iron things on the top of the pickets?
Reply:Originally Posted by Bob WarnerDave,Can we see your jig?
Reply:Nice work, and very detailed write up. For a first project you did really great.
Reply:Most excellent contribution to the site. Vary professional job.
Reply:beautiful work.verey nice. and DAM you're organized. haha.http://kawispeed.com/ -moderator and tech deluxewww.myspace.com/trickortrack -cuz i have no life
Reply:Wow. Great job - except for 'that one little leg that's between two pickets, not behind one'.You'd be a pretty precise kind of bloke, Jack?Yeah, I carry.House keys, wallet, some change, usually a newspaper, maybe a pen.Nice job Jack!It looks like all the fuss was worth it by seeing that smile on your younguns face! #1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!
Reply:i spotted that Fuchs wheel. you got a '70's 911?nvm, saw the car in the pic later.
Reply:".....ahhhh Bob! The P.C. term, we are now ordered to use is 'fixture'....."according to my copy of the Toolmakers Handybook "a jig is a guiding device, and a fixture is a holding device" i dunno if this device is for holding or guiding though, holds it while you weld it, but guides it into place before you do....i think id just call it a jigfixture and say it really fast hoping no sticklers for correctness speak up.
Reply:Ahh yes...the jig/fixture thing. Having spent a couple decades in the machining world, a jig typically holds the part AND provides guidance for a cutting tool (drill/reamer). Picture a V-Block type device, that may hold a round part..device has a drill bushing located somewhere in the jig to guide drill to drill hole on centerline of part. Jig can then be used on simple drill press...Fixture may locate/hold a part in a given orientation, but doesn't provide for any guidance of a cutting tool (that usually comes from the machine...mill, lathe..etc.). No direct interaction with a cutting tool.Pretty simplistic example..You could argue examples of both in Jack's project!Jack - Great project by the way! I need to have the same atitude with a couple projects around here!Last edited by mtncrawler; 08-11-2009 at 10:37 AM.Miller Dynasty 200DXHypertherm PowerMax 45Victor OAIR CompressorLots of blacksmithing tools and other fun toys meant to creatively disfigure, reshape, manipulate and join metal.
Reply:Couple of comments here, WOW to the organizational skills. a little obsessive compulsive are we. If we are. I wish I had some of it. WOW to the shear tenacity and ingenuity it took to to tackle a project like this. Wow to the end results.A couple of points to think about. Yours is done, but for others that might do this. The tips you used on your pickets. When we used that type of product on pickets, we stick welded them with 7024 3/32. quick easy restart and the welds don't pop from the cast quite as easy as mig. Painting a fence, hand rail, or anything like that does suck. We ended up building a dip tank. But on those rare occasions, a set of rubber gloves and a rag work wonders to paint with. As Dave said in his post, prep for paint first. we used to wipe the 24 ft lengths of tube down with a rag of lacquer thinners before we cut the to size. Tubing is usually oily, so this also makes for cleaner hands while working. I am one of those guys that doesn't like to wear gloves a lot. After cleaning the oil off the tube, we would wrap sand paper around the tube and run it up and down the length of the tube. This worked real well with 1 1/4 hand rail pipe and we just started doing it with every thing.The only prep work left after assembly might be to scrape the splatter off with a mason chisel. a fairly sharp one makes real quick work of it.Dave also mentioned plugging the bottom, Again, I agree with him, If you did de bur the inside of the tube. install the plugs with black silicone. wipe clean after each plug is installed. easy clean up that way.One thing I didn't notice was any lateral bracing any where. You might want to think about putting some somewhere in the middle of that 39 ft run. Since you didn't core drill for the install. those anchors will come loose after time goes by.1 last thing, I didn't read that you welded each picket 100 % to the horizontal pieces. You will get moisture in between the 2 components and start to get rust lines running down your pickets. You might want to paint those points real thick or multiple coats to seal that area and prevent the rust from starting.All in All, A real beautiful job! especially considering your admitted knowledge base.As far as the 39 ft versus 40 ft. Every body makes those mistakes. What separates the men from the boys is how they fix it.Lincoln Ranger 8 Lincoln 175 Drill pressLincoln 225 mig Plasma 8 ft brake 52" jump shear
Reply:Great job. I'm a little like you in that I'm too critical of my modest efforts. I finally wised up and adopted the "six months from now I won't even notice it" rule. Made life a lot easier.
Reply:beautiful work sooooo I see that early Porsche Alloy in the background. 911?Lincoln Tombstone 225 A/C Steel StickerOld Victor O2/Acetylene setupMiller Syncrowave 250 Tig/PC-300 PulserMiller Millermatic 212 Mig HTP Invertatig 201 Giant Teck D50 Plasma cutterLots of HF grinders
Reply:great job, sooo what year 911? ok sorry bout the double posts being stupidLincoln Tombstone 225 A/C Steel StickerOld Victor O2/Acetylene setupMiller Syncrowave 250 Tig/PC-300 PulserMiller Millermatic 212 Mig HTP Invertatig 201 Giant Teck D50 Plasma cutterLots of HF grinders
Reply:Great Job for first project. It is hard to imagine what you might be doing in another year or so. I am impressed as much with the neatness of your shop as I am with your project. Mine is not so neat, and I waste a lot of time looking for things and sometimes end up with 3 and 4 of the same tool. Again good job. You have me thinking about making a fence now.
Reply:JACK OLSON,I think you did a very nice job. I haven't read every posting in the thread, so part of what I say might be redundant: The jig looks great (anything that holds things in place is a jig),I am tempted to say that you may have made less work for yourself by putting the welds horizontally, behind the pickets, across the tops and bottoms of the horizontal rails: not having the welds visible (and not that they're not pretty) might have given a cleaner look, and with less distortion.Other than that, great job!
Reply:Thanks for the compliments. I really appreciate that anyone even makes it through a post this long. Originally Posted by dave powelsonJack--I'm impressed by your efforts--tackling a project with no prior experience.Since you asked......1-8' span in 1 x 1 from a side force strength standpoint; 1 x 1 is on the light side. ?
Reply:Very nice I have a 69 911T with a 3.2 engine, 1980 targa stock and a 996 not a 911, water cooled everything works A/C is cold the heat works O-well it is fun to drive....Lincoln Tombstone 225 A/C Steel StickerOld Victor O2/Acetylene setupMiller Syncrowave 250 Tig/PC-300 PulserMiller Millermatic 212 Mig HTP Invertatig 201 Giant Teck D50 Plasma cutterLots of HF grinders
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenAnybody got a source for these? In Southern California its so dry that rust is not a huge issue, but a white wall is going to show it if its there.
Reply:I'm still very impressed with your skill, especially on a first project. Looks really good. By the way, you've got a nice looking house
Reply:truly awesome, and you did it all yourself!
Reply:All right, here's my idea for adding the kind of rigidity I want for what Dave calls side force strength, which I'm assuming is the tendency of the thing to lean out and in if you stand in the center of the long span and push and pull on the fence.The correct way to do it would have been with bigger posts or at least thicker steel on those uprights, but it's too late for me to change that easily, and I do have some stock lying around that happens to just fit inside my 1" square tubing. I think I could work it where I insert a piece that's the same length as the 1" upright, then raise the whole fence up off the wall by an inch with the insert sliding down to the baseplate, weld the insert to the base plate, then slide the fence (and the 1" upright) the rest of the way down and weld it to the baseplate. Because of the concave shape of the walls of the insert tubing, I think I could confine the welds (with some grinding) to where they wouldn't interfere with the ability of the 1" tubing to slide all the way down to the base plate.Does that make sense? Am I right in thinking this will make the uprights considerably stiffer? I can also add small gussets down at the base of these. I'm only considering doing it on the uprights near the center of the long span. Everywhere else, the 16 gauge and the 90-degree changes in the fence's path provide all the side force strength I need.Here's a picture to illustrate what I'm talking about.Last edited by Jack Olsen; 08-12-2009 at 01:49 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenAll right, here's my idea for adding the kind of rigidity I want for what Dave calls side force strength, which I'm assuming is the tendency of the thing to lean out and in if you stand in the center of the long span and push and pull on the fence.The correct way to do it would have been with bigger posts or at least thicker steel on those uprights, but it's too late for me to change that easily, and I do have some stock lying around that happens to just fit inside my 1" square tubing. I think I could work it where I insert a piece that's the same length as the 1" upright, then raise the whole fence up off the wall by an inch with the insert sliding down to the baseplate, weld the insert to the base plate, then slide the fence (and the 1" upright) the rest of the way down and weld it to the baseplate. Because of the concave shape of the walls of the insert tubing, I think I could confine the welds (with some grinding) to where they wouldn't interfere with the ability of the 1" tubing to slide all the way down to the base plate.Does that make sense? Am I right in thinking this will make the uprights considerably stiffer? I can also add small gussets down at the base of these. I'm only considering doing it on the uprights near the center of the long span. Everywhere else, the 16 gauge and the 90-degree changes in the fence's path provide all the side force strength I need.
Reply:Thanks again, Dave. I'll gusset the base plates and I'll see how far I can get the inserts up there on the two center uprights. I have 3x3 base plates for on the wall -- but I have 4x4's for the two that we're talking about. Even as it sits now without base plates, most of the fence is as rigid as I'd want it. I think if I can strengthen the center portion of the long span, I'll be okay.And since I haven't welded it to the base plates, yet -- two questions:Is it worthwhile to put some kind of cement-friendly epoxy into the holes I drill for the expanding studs? Is there any downside to rotating the base plates 45°, so that they're like diamonds on top of the wall instead of squares? It seems like doing this would slightly improve the leverage the base plate has, since the bolts would be farther out from the center of the upright.And yes, as a screenwriter you not only learn to accept a lot of other people's comments, you also get pretty good at making lots of changes at the request of others (the guys who write the checks). The nice thing about a project like this is that the outside suggestions actually improve the quality of the finished product. That's rarely the case with screenwriting.Last edited by Jack Olsen; 08-13-2009 at 01:06 PM.
Reply:Jack, my responses are in bold.Thanks again, Dave. I'll gusset the base plates and I'll see how far I can get the inserts up there on the two center uprights. I have 3x3 base plates for on the wall -- but I have 4x4's for the two that we're talking about. Even as it sits now without base plates, most of the fence is as rigid as I'd want it. I think if I can strengthen the center portion of the long span, I'll be okay.And since I haven't welded it to the base plates, yet -- two questions:Is it worthwhile to put some kind of cement-friendly epoxy into the holes I drill for the expanding studs?****you'll get all kinds of answers on that. From a practical experience standpoint:-I'm assuming you will install with either wedge or sleeve anchors? (Red Head brand at Home Depot, etc.-work well.)-wedge anchors are stronger than sleeve anchors, but can crack unknown, non-structural pours, like your wall, especially if the hole is 2" or less from the wall edge. Sleeve anchors are much easier on not cracking concrete.-base plates 'normally' have a 7/16" id clearance hole for the 3/8"od, SDS rotohammer bits,which measure .390-400 od. The concrete bit has to drill a hole larger than the anchor od, for a bunch of reasons, to install the expanding anchor. Non-sds bits, in gypo 'concrete drills', drill lousy holes. 'Normally' if possible, I drill and install thru the base plate clearance to hold hole alignment--there's often some 'wander' in the hole as it's being drilled; regardless of how careful one is.-if you've got decent holes, blown out, gaged with a .375 od pin that will insert at least 2/3 of the hole depth--to make sure the anchor will enter the hole, which has to be deeper than the anchor's installed depth, epoxy is not needed. Once that anchor is hammered in, it's not coming out, if other base plate holes don't line up. (That's something one needs to experience, andfollowing that episode, they may really get tuned in, on just what-all, needs to happen, fora satisfactory anchor installation.)Is there any downside to rotating the base plates 45°, so that they're like diamonds on top of the wall instead of squares? It seems like doing this would slightly improve the leverage the base plate has, since the bolts would be farther out from the center of the upright.*****yes that helps as you reason correctly.And yes, as a screenwriter you not only learn to accept a lot of other people's comments, you also get pretty good at making lots of changes at the request of others (the guys who write the checks). The nice thing about a project like this is that the outside suggestions actually improve the quality of the finished product. That's rarely the case with screenwriting.*****OH!..okay---the screen play has to satisfy the various agendas, personal feelings andprejudices of others-regardless of how it relates to portraying the story to the audience!Blackbird
Reply:Here's what I have on hand: Powers Lok/Bolt, 5/16x1.5". The box says I should drill a 5/16 hole.Should I use something else?
Reply:1-I don't use those plastic compression sleeved ones-anymore.When tightening, the sleeve can compress enough, letting the threaded studs, pullway uP past the nut--for a sloppy install that then requires cutting off the excess thread.Anchors using metal sleeving-only, set in a gaged hole deeper than the anchor's installeddepth do not create this problem. What you've got is what's called a sleeve anchor, less likely to split the concrete2-'Normally', I use 3" anchors, .375 nom. dia. 1.5" is awfully short for something that can seesignificant leverage/force applied. Maybe consider 2.5" min. The 5/16 dia. can work and gives you more wiggle room for hole alignment, it uses a .250threaded stud. The 3/8 uses a 5/16" threaded stud. Below is the Red Head version of sleeve anchor, shown with .375 dia. hole gagingpin, and a new Hilti SDS bit. (I like the way the Hilti bits drill, btw.) [Red Head, has modified the sleeve anchor sleeves-now adding a series of 3 equallyspaced, formed nubs, to add locking and retention power.] The footplate nuts had not been tightened in this handrail install pic.http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1250192882 Attached ImagesBlackbird
Reply:Thanks. I'll get longer ones for this baseplates in the section with the long span.
Reply:Phenominal job it shows what you can do with planning and dicipline. Is your garage really that clean or did you take that picture from a magazine! Just kidding you do nice work. Keep up the good work. And post more projects.
Reply:Great job, sweet car == makes me wish I was short enough to fit in one!
Reply:Great job, great pictures!!!keith The older the boys, the more expensive the TOYS!!Previous owned;Linde 300 Amp welderMiller Gas drv welder, Tumbstone,Dayton Miller ac to dc converter,High frequency unitLongevity LS60PCurrrently owned;Longevity WeldAll 200PI |
|
发表于 2021-8-31 23:19:25