My go too guy for web based welding lessons :)

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I'm sure all you here know of Jody that makes all those interesting and sometimes funny welding videos.In case you don't, go here and check him out.http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...echniques.htmlI love the guy.
Reply:+1   He's awesome.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Who doesn't love Jody!Idealarc 250AC 225SVictor OA-older made in USA stuff.And a crap ton of other stuff.
Reply:Originally Posted by kaldWho doesn't love Jody!
Reply:"Dan" with his channel called "Weld Fever" is very cool and new....This guy's channel "Michael Reggie" has some really cool heavy equipment welding repair and line boring videos as well. Last edited by SuperArc; 12-24-2013 at 08:22 PM.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:of all the videos out on youtube, I think Jody it the tops along with Thorton.  Granted Thorton is more pipe oriented, you can still apply the techniques to other joints.  ZTFab has a channel that is great too.
Reply:Originally Posted by Scott Youngof all the videos out on youtube, I think Jody it the tops along with Thorton.  Granted Thorton is more pipe oriented, you can still apply the techniques to other joints.  ZTFab has a channel that is great too.
Reply:I was looking at that weld repair on the bucket.. Where did that guy learn how to weld? I remember watching two videos about stringers that were used: He cold have done a nice job of that repair!!
Reply:FieldRes is an insane welder too.  His stick welds look like a machine did it.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcFieldRes is an insane welder too.  His stick welds look like a machine did it.
Reply:I think Jody it the tops along with Thorton.
Reply:Don't forget "Lanse" here too.  I think he has more welding videos on YouTube than all the others combined.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Thanks guys  i'll go check out all the others you mentioned
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Thorton (field res on youtube) does some excellent stuff. His antics are not something I would want associated with my business tho. If you view his vids from an entertainment standpoint, an entirely different matter.I honestly think he could have a career as a stand up comedian tho. An extremely skilled comedian.My fave is the one where he's swigging Crown Royal & rolling around on the floor of his Quonset hut in those extension cords with the rubber spider dangling above him.I about peed my pants on that one. The one with the burned up welding truck was great too.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Thorton (field res on youtube) does some excellent stuff. His antics are not something I would want associated with my business tho. If you view his vids from an entertainment standpoint, an entirely different matter.I honestly think he could have a career as a stand up comedian tho. An extremely skilled comedian.My fave is the one where he's swigging Crown Royal & rolling around on the floor of his Quonset hut in those extension cords with the rubber spider dangling above him.I about peed my pants on that one. The one with the burned up welding truck was great too.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749I can't remember the name of the video but it was something like "disposable welders".You'll laugh your butt off. At least I did. Swamp Donkey welding was another good one. I think that was the name of it. He's a very skilled pipe guy. I wish he would come around the site. I was a little gruff about his vids at first, until I looked at it from a different perspective.He's hilarious.IMHO of course
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Thorton (field res on youtube) does some excellent stuff. His antics are not something I would want associated with my business tho. If you view his vids from an entertainment standpoint, an entirely different matter.I honestly think he could have a career as a stand up comedian tho. An extremely skilled comedian.My fave is the one where he's swigging Crown Royal & rolling around on the floor of his Quonset hut in those extension cords with the rubber spider dangling above him.I about peed my pants on that one. The one with the burned up welding truck was great too.
Reply:Sadly I think he's the only channel that will actually answer you back! was looking at that titanium video he did and someone asked him a few questions.. Kevin caron will atleast say "thanks for the comment" Mr Tig will address some comments with "view our next video or go to our discussion board" so atleast those guys acknowledge their viewers. FieldRes:The pulsing technique would be used for the cap pass. With Titanium, there are 3 things - heat input, shielding gas/ppm of oxygen and cleanliness/oxide removal. The manual pulsing I am doing with the foot pedal, It looks like the arc is on consistently, but it 'isn't'. The pulsing deals with heat input, so that takes care of making sure I don't overheat the material since the interpass temperature of this material is only 200F and it warms up just like how aluminum warms up. Whats actually happening is that I will give a surge of energy to wash out the puddle, and suddenly I back completely off leaving only the hi-freq on, and I will position the torch over that ripple to allow for the ceramic cup - the size 12 I am using, that the ID is larger than the OD of the ripple I made, I will protect that 1 ripple for a count of maybe 6-8 seconds. If you do not deposit a lot of heat input to make that ripple wash out, then you do not need to protect the ripple as much for as long as you would if you made a ripple and ended up using a lot of current for a longer amount of time to wash out the ripple - the ripple would be at a higher temperature, and you would have to shield that specific ripple for a longer duration for it to come down in temperature - you will see the ripple go from an orange glow/liquid to where it solidifies to that frozen mercury of a solid, but it still needs to be protected from the shielding gas until it drops down to less than 700F I believe is the number - sometimes some publications say 800F, sometime its addressed as 500-700F, for when the titanium will not react with the atmosphere. At the same time, you have to take into effect that at certain heat inputs, such as 290C, will bring about a light straw color, brown will be 390C, Blue will be 540Celcius.. so that puddle needs to be shielded and protected so the atmosphere will not interact with it. Titanium loves oxygen, so it needs to be covered until it will no longer react with the atmosphere. From there, comes PPM of oxygen. The torch must have a PPM of less than 20. Internally, there is a chart that I show in that swamp donkey video, that 50 ppm will produce a light straw color, 25 ppm will produce a silvery color, so not only does the internal purge inside the pipe have to be shielded properly, as well as the outside, but you cannot have any leaks in those hoses. At the same time, if the flow rate/CFM is too high and the purge hose is too small, then that will create turbulence and suck in the atmosphere into the pipe. Same thing with the purge being too much inside the pipe, or the purge hose being one size and the outlet hose being smaller or another size, that will run into problems as well. On the video, I have that black screen that mentions about the purge moniter alarm tripping, and I believe I had a combination of too small a purge line for the argon to escape from the pipe internally as well as possibly a few too many CFM's, that I could have backed the CFM down slightly to produce an even gentler and effortless flow of argon inside the pipe. Otherwise, too much pressure could cause an effect where there is a chance of turbulence and oxygen may get sucked into the pipe. There is also cleanliness and oxide removal. The oxides melt at a higher temperature than the base material, they also cause resistance while welding, same as the oxide on aluminum, or milky film on something like chrome or Inconel, trying to weld over that stuff, it is resistance, and slows down the puddle, does not allow the puddle to wash out very well, as well as for the puddle to adhere to the clean sound metal which is should be adhering to without any effort. So the oxides need to be removed, but also they will melt at a higher temperature so you will bring about discoloration while welding over them. You won't be using a grinder on this material, because it creates friction from heat, but also at the very same when guys are welding things like duplex, Inconel - where the rootpass is all shiny, and suddenly only their starts and stops where they used a grinder to feather their starts and stops, (due to pinhole/resistance cause to make the leading edge of the stop immediately liquid again to carry on with the rootpass so the operator does not overheat a specific area) usually they will be all precise about heat input but forget about the friction from the grinding disk on the leading edge of the stop. So the pipe may be all cool to the touch, but the leading edge is still warm, and they end up getting a small bluish spot on the leading edge on their starts/stops. But at the same time, it contaminates the metal. Not only does it quickly overheat it those grinding disks but its like cutting aluminum with a grinding disk, the metal doesn't look too pleasant. So stops/starts will be with a file. since its a cold process and does not apply friction/heat. Cleaning will be with emery cloth to remove oxides, but also those rotary sand paper type wheels used on die grinders - flapper wheel type. A rotary file/burr is handy as long as you are conscientious about heat input. A file will be used along with sand paper. Every time before welding, when the material is at room temperature - simply because if the pipe is warm and you apply more heat to it, it gets even warmer, but you will remove the oxides with a stainless brush, both in the weld zone but also within the heat affected zone simply to remove any oxides from the material. The material will be cleaned with acetone. The filler metal will be cleaned with emery cloth and acetone also. The filler metal - the tip, will always be within contact protected by the ceramic cup. Otherwise, if the tip of the filler is exposed to the atmosphere, since the tip will be coming down in temperature just like the ripple will be coming down in temperature, if the filler is exposed/pulled out from the gas shielding, and then added to the puddle again to weld, you will immediately contaminate the weld.For the metals, it depends upon how sluggish the metal is. Whether continuous or dipping, there are as many techniques out there as there are welders. For Carbon Steel and Stainless as well as Duplex, For the rootpass, I will use continuous feed. The difference is that the stainless and the duplex is more sluggish and the sides solidify really quick, so while on carbon you could take a "z" like step side to side because the carbon is more liquid, with stainless steel/duplex, you will moving in a very fine movement side to side only because the puddle solidifies on the sides very quick and you want to keep the overall puddle 'warm' while you are having the puddle do all the work and using the puddles warmth to break down the bevel tips as well as break down the filler. You can incorporate dipping on stainless steel - found useful on the bottom, because since the duplex/stainless is sluggish, dipping will agitate the puddle and help it wash out better, but at the same time, you don't have that solid mass of filler metal trying to be fed into a liquid puddle. The solid mass chills out the puddle which will not allow the puddle to wash out since it is too sluggish and being chilled out by the solid filler. So dipping at the bottom will help add some filler metal, then remove the filler metal and allow the puddle to wash out. For Inconel, you will be 'breaking surface tension'. The way I always weld is with the filler metal being fed from inside the pipe. So with Inconel, because it has a tough time washing out with the filler metal being continuously fed, that is the reason why it is more of a 'dip' technique. But it isn't necessarily a 'dip' and pull away technique because that agitates the puddle when its dipped then pulled away, so it is more of a technique where you open a keyhole on the leading edge, the puddle will wash out slightly, and then you add filler metal and hold it in place. you can either count for a second or two or else simply move the tig torch up about 1/16th of an inch - it becomes a tug a war between the tip of the filler metal on the inside, with the puddle in the middle, and the tig torch on the outside. Surface tension breaks between the filler metal and the puddle, and the puddle takes however much metal is needed from the filler metal, it breaks surface tension on its own accord away from the filler metal and it drops into place, solidifying to allow the operator now to open another keyhole. So certain techniques are requires - but there are as many techniques as there are welders, but certain techniques will compliment a particular weld sometimes better or sometimes not as good. When it comes to capping, fill passes, etc. Continuous technique works great on carbon steel. The puddle is alive, it flows, and interpass temperature is not low like it is with something like duplex, Inconel, etc. The filler metal is a solid, and the puddle is liquid, the tig torch expends "X" amount of energy to break down the solid mass that is the filler metal. Typically the puddle is doing the work breaking down the filler metal with the torch heating up the puddle and the filler on the leading edge of the puddle. Same with stainless steel. But when it comes to metals that are sluggish like Inconel, then you need to figure out a different technique to wash that puddle out and some how break down the filler metal AND use the least amount of heat and effort (Inconel, I have procedures from 300F to 400F interpass temp)  But its sluggish. The most convenient technique that will wash out the puddle, adhere to interpass temp, and allow you to travel a fair distance without overheating the material, is simply dipping. "Dip, remove filler metal slightly, wash out puddle side to side, dip again, remove filler metal, wash out side to side, dip." This is useful because the filler metal is a solid mass and takes a great deal of effort/heat to break down. dipping and removing the filler metal from the liquid puddle will slightly agitate the puddle but also allow you to dab in just enough metal for you to remove the filler, keep the liquid puddle warm enough that it is not going to chill out from the solid filler metal, and allow you to wash out the metal side to side as needed. This seems to be the most convenient and useful  way that will compliment a sluggish puddle. In the videos, The stainless roll welding, both techniques are continuous. The Inconel, I am dipping into the puddle. The chrome/carbon roll weld is continuous feed. Merry Christmas also!
Reply:Thorton's a metronomic welding machine of precision.  Steel through duplex to titanium.  He knows metal and fusion.  Plus, his comedic elements rival SNL.  His 7018 work here is laser precise.  "Oh wow. And look at that. Gosh." LOL.Last edited by ManoKai; 12-25-2013 at 07:19 PM."Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Thorton!!Come Back!!!!!
Reply:Fieldres makes me want to just go out and buy a sa200.      C'mon kowalski
Reply:I'm waiting to see if Lanse or Jody get offered a show.They aren't Diznee enough.Lemme plug a YouTube bro who doesn't do much welding but he's an absolutely kickazz repair guy(job shop) ! Abom79  Adam Booth.It's mandatory to look like a retard to attract merican TV viewers it seems.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)