Welding truck rehab and upgrades

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First off, There will be 3 posts of photos, so please hold your comments until I have finished all three original postings.It's 2011 and a time for new starts.  I'm rehabbing my work truck and installing some upgrades.  I bought a new(slightly used) welder for my truck, and partially because business is slow right now and I have the time for upgrades.I love the 300D I've had since I started, but it has 2 shortcomings.  No CV capability and not enough aux 120/240 power.  The new machine takes care of both of these problems.  It's also much lower in hours and weighs about 400lbs less.The truck is a 98 Chevy 3500HD.  It's a solid platform to work from.  Some would say too big, but I see it as having room to grow.  But, I've never liked the flatbed that the previous owner installed, and I really didn't like the fact that he welded it to the truck frame.So, a new welder and some spare time means that I'm going to strip off the rusting hulk of a flatbed.  Fix a few nagging issues underneath, and then fab up something that I think will work better for the type of work I've been doing.  I've posted a few times over the last 18 months or so to get ideas for what I wanted to do.  So this post is those ideas put into action.  Thanks to everybody for being generous in the past with their suggestions.So, this first series of photos shows:1 - My older welder off the truck.  I'm very lucky to be able to borrow space in a large shop with an overhead crane for this work.  Can't abuse the situation, but I can at least get the demolition done and the new welder sitting on the truck.All the toolboxes and other stuff has to go...Note to self, bolts are easier to remove than welds...2 - I'm doing the new bed in thirds, and so I'm removing the old bed in sections so if I have to use the truck I'm not totally DOA before the job is done.  A borrowed plasma cutter makes fast work of hacking the old bed front third off.  This is where the welder is going.  It'll be mounted to a couple rails of 6" C channel that have tabs for through bolting to the frame.  3 - that rediculous looking thing hanging down is the front tank fuel filler neck.  It was held to the edge of the deck by two little tabs and a couple rotted machine screws.  Not sure what I'm going to do to remount it, but guaranteed it'll be better than what was there.Notice the piece of c channel nastily welded to my truck frame.  Keep watching, cause that's one of the better mounts.On to Post #2... Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:OKPicture 4 - Cut off %^()*%$ welded on mounts and use a cup brush to remove years of dirt, flaking underbody coating, and rust.  Then spray with rustoleum rust converter.  I like this stuff.  Tried a test patch on another spot on the frame last year.  No rust.  I can't do a complete job on the rails without tearing out the fuel system and cross members.  Maybe next year.The new welder will sit as low as I can make it in the space I've cut out so far.  I'll lay the c channel across the rails, web horizontal, weld tabs to the channels and through bolt to the frame with grade 8 hardware.  This will make future repairs much easier as I can just unbolt the rails and lift the welder off.5 - will also clean up all frame grounds as I go as my fuel gauge crapped out a couple months ago.  I'm hoping it's a frayed wire and not a bad sending unit.  6 - Noticed some cracking and rust on the passenger rear quarter panel of the cab.  A quick and dirty cleanup and spray with rustoleum yellow is all I have time for.  The cab is now 4 shades of yellow, some cracked, some peeling, and all of it ugly.  Still, it's a work truck and all I care about for the moment is that it doesn't rust.  At least the new yellow blends in better than the black I used last year....7 - It's tough to see in this picture but I cut out the old receiver tube.  I want to re-use it for an equipment mount or possibly as a hitch on the re-worked truck.  I'd like to have a hitch for future need.  But I'm not registered for more weight than just the truck and payload, so pulling a big trailer could get me in a tight spot with DOT.  I spent several hours the other night trying to figure out if I really needed a DOT number.  so far, I seem to be in a gray area.  If I don't leave Ohio, and if Ohio doesn't require one for all commerical vehicles, then I'm ok without one.  I'm still working on finding out Ohio's regs...I can't wait to get rid of that gooseneck hitch and that extra crossbar I installed.  I've nearly broken my ankle a couple times because of that recessed gooseneck ball.  And the second crossbar seemed like such a good idea, until I started walking around on the truck deck...next post... Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:8 - The new(to me) welder.  It's wider, but not as tall and not as long as my old machine.9 - A mockup of the new welder using the box it came in and some 4x4 timbers.  It'll sit a little lower on the channel rails.  Might have to re-install my rear-view mirror inside the cab...10 - Miller recommends 18 inches of clearance all the way around.  There's 14 inches between the back of the cab and the front side of the welder.  I hate to throw away that space, but I hate doing maintenance or repairs in cramped quarters even more.  I might mount a flat plate on that front cross member and then install my gas bottles there.  They're kind of portable, and I'm not sure where I'll put them on the rear half of the deck.  The filler neck will pop out from under the welder and get mounted to the rails.  They won't be as long as the 4x4s.I replaced some exhaust clamps while I had such easy access to them.  The rest of the exhaust system looked to be in good shape, which is surprising since the truck has 122K miles.That's what's done so far.  Tomorrow will be:1 -  demoing the rest of the bed.  I was going to salvage all the diamond plate and c channel in the original bed.  But whoever built it did an annoying job of welding it together.  It's got a tonne of rust underneath, and by the time I hack everything apart and get it sand blasted and deal with all the warping in the sheets, I could have just used new steel for the same or less money.2 - New rear bumper.  I have a piece of 8" c channel I pickup up cheap a couple years ago.  It's perfect.  Someone used an (gas)axe to hack off the ends of the frame rails.  I think this truck had a lift on it at one time.  I'm going to square up the rails, and fab some tabs tobolt the channel to the rails as a bumper. I might have some lights cut into the channel eventually, but for now it's the old box lights.3 - clean up rails and paint outsides.  Inspect everything I couldn't see before and fix any problemsOnce this stuff is done I can get on with fabbing the new bed.  I'm going to build it in thirds.  The front third is the welder, and maybe a vertical gas bottle rack.  The middle third will be tool boxes.  I think they'll be 3-4 feet wide, the same height as the cab+2", and the full width of thewheels.  Hinged doors that swing up and lay flat, or down and hang vertical.  Might put a divider in the middle to make two large compartments.  But I need to mount an air compressor, and so I may leave the box as one large space.  The box will be framed with 2" square tube, so I can use it to carry material on top.I might build some reels that fit inside the box, but so far coiling my leads and hoses hasn't been a problem for me.The last third of the bed will be flat 3/8" or  1/2" plate, 2-3 feet deep, and the full width of the truck wheels.  If it looks shallow, I'll buy or fab a piece of slotted decking(like steel stair treads or catwalk deck) that hinges up and locks in place.  The plate will have a couple receivers for a vise, grinder, and my lite duty jib crane.  All these things will fit in the toolbox.  The filler neck for the rear fuel tank will get mounted here also.  Better than the mounts I used to have.If it looks practical, then I might hang 1 or two boxes underneath the welder for more storage.The last items will be a roller for loading full sticks of tub up onto the top of the truck and a rack over the cab to support full or half sticks of tube, and an extension ladder.I almost forgot, the last item is some fenders for the rear dually tires to replace the mud flaps.  Flaps don't do a good job of keeping the dirt, salt, and water off the rest of the truck.  I just need to get someone to roll some sheet to the right radius to fit the tires.  This would involve some skirting on the sides and back of the rear 2/3rds of the deck also...I haven't really thought this part of the project out yet....  But I can rig the flaps temporarily so the people behind me get some protection from road spray and rocks.That's where this is all headed.  Stay tuned as I'll post progress photos every couple of days.  As always constructive comments are welcome... Attached ImagesLast edited by A_DAB_will_do; 01-01-2011 at 09:57 PM.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Looks good DAB, Don't forget, it is super easy to change the sending unit with the machine and bed off.
Reply:Originally Posted by daddyLooks good DAB, Don't forget, it is super easy to change the sending unit with the machine and bed off.
Reply:Looking good , i am lookin for a semi to convert into a service welding truck , i noticed u spoke of the DOT number , its a real pain in the ........... ... here in Ks , i would suggest getting one and just dealin with it , i have a trailer with my name on the side of it and had to get magnets for the truck when i haul the trailer the reason is , cops love to see someone without a dot #. The numbers free and its alot cheaper then the tickets of not having one and the lawyer fees when u go try to fight after some half cocked cop writes ya a ticket without fully knowing whats actually going on ... just a thought anyway under us dot all the cylinders fall under tools of the trade so just keep researchin ya might find it easier to get one then all the problems of not having one.
Reply:Originally Posted by LawsonWeldingLLCLooking good , i am lookin for a semi to convert into a service welding truck , i noticed u spoke of the DOT number , its a real pain in the ........... ... here in Ks , i would suggest getting one and just dealin with it , i have a trailer with my name on the side of it and had to get magnets for the truck when i haul the trailer the reason is , cops love to see someone without a dot #. The numbers free and its alot cheaper then the tickets of not having one and the lawyer fees when u go try to fight after some half cocked cop writes ya a ticket without fully knowing whats actually going on ... just a thought anyway under us dot all the cylinders fall under tools of the trade so just keep researchin ya might find it easier to get one then all the problems of not having one.
Reply:I'm likin' it A_DAB.Can't go wrong with a Chevy/Miller (Chiller) combo.Looking forward to your progress.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:http://www.puco.ohio.gov/emplibrary/...20vehicles.pdfJust some info I found on the net.anyhoo in California I have to have a State # since my truck is over 10,001lbs- which looks like ohio is going to be enforcing also but with a year to educate the public Only need a DOT # if I leave the State.I also found this about OHhttp://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/registratio...tion-usdot.htmain't it funEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Nice looking combo how do you like the 350 Pipe pro so far I looked at them but amnot to sure with the mitsubishi engine? Which engine is in the P/u  350, 454, or 6.5 t/d?Vantage 300 kubota ,miller 304 xmt ,lincoln ln 25 pro , ranger 305 G, plenty of other tools of the trade to make the sparks fly.
Reply:A couple pics of some quick and easy fenders for you to fab up for under your deck.I ripped these pictures off the website of a company I worked for (briefly) back in '07.  I mounted the crane and did the final assembly on the White C5500 with the Blue deck.  The Grey Dodge was built after I left, and moved on to my current job. The fenders use 4 bolts to secure them to the C-channel running side to side perpendicular to the main rails.Hope the pics are of some use to you. Attached ImagesLater,Jason
Reply:Thanks Ed.  I appreciate the help with finding info on the regs here in Oh.I hadn't seen the PUCO webpage before.  It's the best plain english explanation I've seen so far.  Will look over the other webpage tonight after I finish(I hope) mounting the new machine. Originally Posted by Broccoli1http://www.puco.ohio.gov/emplibrary/...20vehicles.pdfJust some info I found on the net.anyhoo in California I have to have a State # since my truck is over 10,001lbs- which looks like ohio is going to be enforcing also but with a year to educate the public Only need a DOT # if I leave the State.I also found this about OHhttp://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/registratio...tion-usdot.htmain't it fun
Reply:Thanks.  I like the Miller machine, although I only have a couple hours of time with it running.  I'm looking forward to having all the 120 power I need, and it's so much quieter than my 300D that I might be able to work without earplugs in all the time.I'm not worried about the mitsubishi engine.  I know that mitsubishi engines are used in lots of other industrial machines.  This one's been broken in already, and so I figure I"m good to go for a long while.The truck has the 6.5L turbo diesel.  Been a solid truck, with serious power train issues so far.  Some folks online complain about a lack of power(compared to other diesels) but I'm not drag racing this truck so I find nothing to complain about. Originally Posted by GmmandanNice looking combo how do you like the 350 Pipe pro so far I looked at them but amnot to sure with the mitsubishi engine? Which engine is in the P/u  350, 454, or 6.5 t/d?
Reply:Thanks for the pictures Jason.  If I can't find someone to roll some 14 gauge for a reasonable cost, then I'll steal your design for fenders.  After spending an entire day scraping, brushing, and blowing chunks of rock, dirt, and who-knows-what-else from inside the frame rails of the truck, it's definitely getting some wheel well fenders.  I'm wondering if the farmer who owned this before be buried the rear of the truck in mud at some point in the past....More photos soon.  Need to take scrap to recycler and pick up new steel.  Thanks everybody, gotta run. Originally Posted by Black WolfA couple pics of some quick and easy fenders for you to fab up for under your deck.I ripped these pictures off the website of a company I worked for (briefly) back in '07.  I mounted the crane and did the final assembly on the White C5500 with the Blue deck.  The Grey Dodge was built after I left, and moved on to my current job. The fenders use 4 bolts to secure them to the C-channel running side to side perpendicular to the main rails.Hope the pics are of some use to you.
Reply:OK...Next installment.  After many hours of labor, measuring, scraping, wire brushing, drilling, welding, cutting, swearing, bleeding, things are coming together.Here are more photos and some comments...OK, first off, if you're reading this because you're thinking about doing something similar...DO NOT WELD ATTACHMENTS TO THE FRAME OF YOUR TRUCK.If you choose to ignore my advice, do not do what the previous owner of my truck did, and weld attachments with a crappy little 110V MIG/FCAW hobby welder.  Don't stick spacers between your mounts and the frame because you did a shabby job of fitting the bed structural members.  If there's any justice in the universe, the guy or gal who welded this bed to my truck will have a cramp in their hand every time they touch a welding machine from now on.The only reason I left that mount for so long is because there were 4 others that looked OK.  One that I repaired with better(although still not recommended welding), and the hitch was tied into the rear of the deck and provided substantial support.  I could see that whoever install the hitch cross member and receiver tube used good technique and made what appear to be sound welds.  The hacker who mounted the main supports left more whiskers sticking out from his welds than I have on my face.I knocked off 5 mounts with a 2lb hammer and a quick slice with a cut-off wheel.  The mount I repaired took me 30 minutes to cut and hammer loose with the same tools.  Stupid spring perch was in the way and I couldn't notch the whole of either side of the welds.  My hammer and a 3' prybar were the only tools I had available.  The hitch receiver I cut loose with a bandsaw and a plasma in about 10 minutes total.You can see in the second photo that one side of the welded mount has about 1 inch of crappy penetration.  I ground all the old welds down flush with frame and they were all loaded with porosity.  This leads me to think they were mig welded outdoors with no wind break.Really, it's lucky that no more of these broke on me before I cut them off. The one I fixed had the same spacers jammed in it and it had cracked.  I knew they were bad, and it's just luck that I didn't overload those mounts before I got to fix them.  Good thing I didn't haul a trailer or a heavy load of steel with the truck.  Got the frame cleaned up and coated everything I could reach with rust coverter.Next post... Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:So, whenever your working on something old, you always find problems you didn't know about.  I knew about the bad flatbed mounts.  I did not know about the rotted fuel sender/pickup unit in the rear fuel tank.I am thinking of removing this tank because I don't need 55 gallons of fuel capacity for the type of driving I do.  I also don't like the idea of welding and cutting right over top of 30 gallons of diesel.  Call me crazy, call me paranoid.  But since the truck has a system that circulates fuel from one tank to another, I'm not sure which tank is primary in the loop and how/if I can bypass the rear tank.  So, it's buy a new sender and figure out how to remove the old one without ruining the tank.  Or figure out how to remove the tank entirely.  Strangely enough, none of those rotten tubes are leaking any fuel that I can see.  Maybe it's only if the tank overflows during refueling that diesel runs down the side of the tank and onto the ground...On to the new bumper.  I squared up the rear of the frame rails where someone had hacked them off with a cutting torch.  Drilled holes and mounted a new piece of 8" C channel I bought on a whim a couple year ago(before I owned this truck).  There's an obligatory weld photo for you critics.  The mounting tabs are 3x3 angle iron.  MIG welded 0.045" solid wire 80/20 gas(cause that's what they had in the shop.  I don't have a MIG welder of my own....I'm old fashioned and I spent all my money on the new engine drive)  Anyway, about 18V 180IPM and the meter on the welder read about 180 amps.  Nice and hot, with good penetration.  No wimpy light duty 0.030" wire for me.  Just joking, the right tools for each job... I know there's a time and place for small diameter wire.  But this job wasn't it.  In the second to the last photo you can see the heat marks were the MIG welds burned through  the primer opposite side of the c channel.  I took the bumper off and made all the welds in flat or horizontal positions.  I'm a little rusty with a MIG gun, and a bumper that big is noting you want falling off going down the road.  That channels about 1/4" thick.  Oh, for you novices.  Please clean your steel before MIG welding.  Grind down to bright metal before welding.  Push or pull the puddle as you prefer, but spend the time getting your preparation right.  Welding is the last 10% of most jobs.  I'll get off my soapbox now.On to welder mounts and mounting the new machine. Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:In case it wasn't obvious, I bolted the new bumper to the truck with new grade 8 hardware.On to the welder mounts.  6" c channel laid across the frame rails.  3x3"x8" long tabs to bolt through for attachement to the truck frame.  I'm trying to get everything as low as I can.Need to drop the front fuel tank an inch or so.  The fuel tubes from the send just clear the flange on the front piece of c channel.  I'm worried they'll rot through any time, so before I call this done, I'll definitely replace that sender.  The sending unit is an open circuit and I think this is why my fuel gauge is DOA.  I spent a couple hours playing with where to set those rails.  There's frame bolts to dodge, fittings on the fuel tank, and clearance issues.  The frame rails near the cab slope down as well.  There's all the clearance that miller wanted between the welder and the cab.  But I'll likely build a seperate headache rack and bottle rack to sit in that space between the cab and the welder.  There's another weld shot for those of you who like those.  Same settings and equipment as I listed in the previous post.Photo three shows everything laid out, including the foundation for phases 2 and 3 of the project.  I have 2 more pieces of 6" channel that I'll set on top of the truck rails after notching them for a couple dozen rivets. sigh.  They'll get flat tabs that run down the rails and are through bolted in place.  The tool box and work surface will rest on those, giving me clearance for the wheels and better working height.A brief comment on bolting.  Drilling those holes in the frame rails was a huge PITA.  It took a couple hours to drill 6 1/2" holes.  I don't own a mag drill, but I think I will before this is over.  The truck frame under the welder is where the front and rear frame members overlap.  With the mounting tabs, there's about 1" of steel to drill through.  I have a good quality milwaukee drill motor, quality bits, and a drill doctor.  The 1/8" pilot holes about did me in.  The 1/4" and 1/2" holes where as tough, but I'll probably go 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" for the rest if I'm drilling them by hand.  I just can't generate enough tool pressure drilling horiztonal or overhead to cut nice long chips with a hand drill using bigger bits.  The four holes to mount the welder took less than 15 minutes to drill.  Pressing down on the drill with body weight, and the speed on the dril,l makes  the steel cut like warm butter.Photo 4 is just all the mounts and the bumper painted.  Had to cut corners here a little bit.  Just Rustoleum rattle can black.  That'll get me through the winter and finishing the project.  Nice thing is with each section being modular and bolted in place I can pull them one at a time and re-paint them as needed.  Each section will get some kind of lifting lug, except the last piece that I can unbolt, jack up with pipe stands, and drive out from under.  I'm pricing the 1/2" plate for that.  I might have to frame that with square tube and go thinner on top to save money.  We'll see what my steel supplier says about the plate.The last photo is everything in place and the old tail lights installed for the drive home.  Will definitely upgrade those and install the license plate with a light before long.That's it until this weekend, when I'll fab some more and get those rear mounting rails done. Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Looks like its coming along really well man... Cant wait to see more.[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:You have some nice equipment / welders! I would have to agree mag drill is the way to go. As long as they dont slip off or loose power lol.
Reply:Nice lookin build - cant wait to see the finished product.Millermatic 135Syncrowave 250
Reply:re:DOT numbers and such ...Yup, you pretty much are in the category of needing numbers and (at least some) logs and such.  Unless all sorts of 'exemptions' negate at least some of the requirements.3500HD used commercially falls into at least some categories of GVW (OR) GVWR (OR) GCWR of 10,001 - 26,000 lbs.  Most likely #2 and #3 there.  You -may- (for now anyway) fall into some of the logbook exemption categories.Yup, paperwork and forms and records and bookkeeping and so forth.  Inspections and medical certificate too.  Oh, joy.btw, nice job so far on the truck.    Oh, but no  for a minimum of 4 hours before going "On-duty" per the regs.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Thanks, Just the new engine drive, truck and hand tools are mine.  The shop space, plasma cutter, and the MIG welder are borrowed.  One of these days I'll have the those things for myself.... Originally Posted by oxygen454You have some nice equipment / welders! I would have to agree mag drill is the way to go. As long as they dont slip off or loose power lol.
Reply:I sure like the stretch frame 1 ton's.  I was a little unsure when I bought mine, but wouldn't ever go back to an 8' bed ever again.  Longer is betterBeautiful welds as alwaysMy bed was welded to the frame too.  Took a lot of work to rebuild proper mounts.  "jsfab" had some good tips for me (thanks Joe).I hope you find the truck frame to be good and straight/square.  I had some issues with my Ford.  Nothing was quite straight.I really hate to see you chop the bed, but it's your bed, and you probably have a good reason.  Draining oil?  Access to underside of welder?  Boredom?  I really concentrate on keeping weight down to a minimum, hope you do too.  It's a shame to carry around a lot of weight you don't need.  As to all the muck/dirt/rocks under the rear frame rails........................   Wait till ya get this puppy out on some mud.  Not deep mud.  Not slimy mud.  But the teensiest weeniest bit of wet ground (a banana peel will do)  I hate dualies for working on any kind of slick groundIt looks real good so far"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Sweet Pipe Pro, What did that set you back? Also I am really liking the tread pattern on your Dually tires. What brand & weight rating are they? Thanks for all the pics. Nice projectAmerican by birth Southern by the Grace of God
Reply:I have had incredibly good luck using new unibits (step bit) for drill through this sort of steel. A half inch Unibit with a good 18 volt cordless drill will probably make fast work of those holes.Good luck and nice looking work so far.-JimMy duallys all do fairly well in the mud I have 5 of them.    They all have limited slip rear ends, The front end is usually the one that gives me the most trouble, traction is rarely the problem.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Thanks Samm.  All those welds were flat or horizontal, so they weren't a stretch.  Like I said earlier, better to take the time to pull the parts and weld them in the easiest position.  That way I get the best welds possible, so nothing falls off while I'm driving down the road.I know the truck looks like a 1 ton, but it's a HD.  Payload on this truck is ~9700lbs according too the factory brochure.  It'll tow a 16,000lb trailer with the right hitch according to the factory specs.I read JSFAB's posting and I followed your truck rebuild closely.There's a laundry list of reasons I chopped up the flatbed that came on the truck:RustMore RustWarped deck platingGooseneck hitch I'd never use and always tripped onRolled edge and stakebed pockets that always made it tough to clamp anything to the bedToo high off the groundBotched mounts to the truck frameyes, draining oil from the lincoln was a pain.  I actually changed it with a suction pump gadget I found on amazon.  It was slow but worked OK; 20 minutes to drain the oil.and a few more reasons I can't remember right nowHonestly I didn't measure the frame before I mounte the welder.  But I did check the c channel I laid across the frame for the welder to sit on.  They were square to the cab and each other within 1/16".The truck rides like a horse drawn hay wagon without the weight of the bed in back.  I'm going to pay attention to keeping the weight down.  Been reading what Lincoln's welding books have to say about designing machine frames to be stiff and light.  I'll post my designs for the rest of the bed so you can see what I'm talking about, what I get them done.One of the important features I'm adding to the new design are wheel wells to keep the mud out of the frame and underbody(I hope).Stay tuned for more photos, but probably not until this weekend. Originally Posted by farmersammI sure like the stretch frame 1 ton's.  I was a little unsure when I bought mine, but wouldn't ever go back to an 8' bed ever again.  Longer is betterBeautiful welds as alwaysMy bed was welded to the frame too.  Took a lot of work to rebuild proper mounts.  "jsfab" had some good tips for me (thanks Joe).I hope you find the truck frame to be good and straight/square.  I had some issues with my Ford.  Nothing was quite straight.I really hate to see you chop the bed, but it's your bed, and you probably have a good reason.  Draining oil?  Access to underside of welder?  Boredom?  I really concentrate on keeping weight down to a minimum, hope you do too.  It's a shame to carry around a lot of weight you don't need.  As to all the muck/dirt/rocks under the rear frame rails........................   Wait till ya get this puppy out on some mud.  Not deep mud.  Not slimy mud.  But the teensiest weeniest bit of wet ground (a banana peel will do)  I hate dualies for working on any kind of slick groundIt looks real good so far
Reply:Thanks.  I could tell you what I paid for the welder, but then I'd have to kill you.    I bought it used with about 400 hours on it, so I got a good deal on the machine.  I checked it out, connected the battery, and fired it up for the first time last night.  My push mower with a 5hp B&S engine is louder than this welder.  And the machine runs smooth enough to set a handful of loose nuts and bolts on the top.  They'll still be there when you come back.  My lincoln ran smooth when I had it load banked.  They tech at teh service shop commented on how smooth it ran.  But when the lincoln was running, I had to corral all the small parts and hand tools on the bed or they'd dance around and I'd find them in the dirt.The tires are another story.  The fronts I bought from a dealer; it was an emergency and I paid full price.  The rears have turned out to be the deal of the year for me.  They are from an outfit I found on the web called Treadwright.  They are re-capped tires.  The carcasses are a matched set of Goodyear load rating F, size 245 70 R19.5.  I paid $118 each including shipping .  My local GMC dealer mounted them for another $12.50 each. I've got maybe 1000 miles on them, but they run great and they're quieter than the bald tires I replaced.  Service from Treadwright was excellent, and I'll go back to them when I need more tires for this truck. Originally Posted by 74fencerSweet Pipe Pro, What did that set you back? Also I am really liking the tread pattern on your Dually tires. What brand & weight rating are they? Thanks for all the pics. Nice project
Reply:Correct me if I'm wrong, but- I thought unibits were meant for material 1/8" or less in thickness.  I have unibits, but I've burned them up drilling through thick material before.-  You still need a pilot hole before you can use a unibit.It's the pilot holes that are a PITA.  1/8" bits are easy to break when drilling by hand through 1" of steel.  Larger bits are just about impossible to use for a pilot hole because I can't apply enough pressure to get them to cut well when I'm drilling sideways.  Drilling down is no problem, but the holes in the frame are a real chore. Originally Posted by kb0thnI have had incredibly good luck using new unibits (step bit) for drill through this sort of steel. A half inch Unibit with a good 18 volt cordless drill will probably make fast work of those holes.Good luck and nice looking work so far.-Jim
Reply:I stuck this truck once in soft clay, when I still had 4 bad rear tires.  Lucky for me there was a dozer on the site to push me to dry land.I haven't had cause to take the truck onto snow or mud with the new tires yet... Originally Posted by DualieMy duallys all do fairly well in the mud I have 5 of them.    They all have limited slip rear ends, The front end is usually the one that gives me the most trouble, traction is rarely the problem.
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doCorrect me if I'm wrong, but- I thought unibits were meant for material 1/8" or less in thickness.  I have unibits, but I've burned them up drilling through thick material before.-  You still need a pilot hole before you can use a unibit.It's the pilot holes that are a PITA.  1/8" bits are easy to break when drilling by hand through 1" of steel.  Larger bits are just about impossible to use for a pilot hole because I can't apply enough pressure to get them to cut well when I'm drilling sideways.  Drilling down is no problem, but the holes in the frame are a real chore.
Reply:Hello A DaBGreat score on the new kinda used welder! I have rented many of the Pro300's and LOVE how quiet they are. I am hoping that one of the local rental outfits will get the new PipePro 350 so I can give it a try. I am not in the market for a new machine but I would like to give it a workout and see how it does.I had a 98 Chevy 3500HD and LOVED that truck. it had the Vortec 454 and 4L80E. I had to sell it when I got divorced and have regretted it almost every day. If I remember correctly the first year they made them was 91 and they stopped in 2002. They should have kept it in production and put the Duramax and Allison in them and also offer them in 4wheel drive. They are 15,000GVW and 19,000GCVWR. Mine was tipping the scales at 14.6K rigged out, full of fuel and handled it just fine with never a problem. I built a goose neck hitch mounted to the frame under the bed with a door and built the reciever hitch off the rear of the frame. Mine had the 14' flat bed that was on it when I bought it.Here is a link for some useful info on the REAL HD'shttp://www.vehix.com/car-reviews/199...specificationsThe one thing I did do to it was install ceramic brake pads all the way around and that really made her stop quick. They are hard on rotors but I would rather change rotors than run the risk of getting in a wreck. There are way to many A Holes here in Southern AZ that cant drive Had to put new pads on the E Brake Drum also when my son drove it about 15 miles with the E Brake on.... He learned how to reline brake shoes so not all was lostLooking forward to seeing your all done, keep the pics coming
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doCorrect me if I'm wrong, but- I thought unibits were meant for material 1/8" or less in thickness.  I have unibits, but I've burned them up drilling through thick material before.-  You still need a pilot hole before you can use a unibit.
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doBut since the truck has a system that circulates fuel from one tank to another, I'm not sure which tank is primary in the loop and how/if I can bypass the rear tank.
Reply:Fuel tanks and payload/towing capacities for these trucks vary greatly.  The truck I have has a 25 gallon front and 30 gallon rear tank.  I've seen gas engine versions with 34 gallon front tanks and no rear tank.  Payload and towing all depend on the engine type and gearing in the rear diff.I got about 10mpg before I started this project.  I'm hoping that the lighter bed with a lower, more streamlined profile, might do better.  In any case I'm working in about a 100 mile radius tops. So a 25 gallon tank is more than enough for the way I use this truck.I did some more research and it looks like there's a fuel module that moves fuel from the rear to the front tank whenever the system senses that the front tank is draining.  This system cuts out when the rear tank reads 2 ohms or less on it's fuel sender.  So, I think I can cut out the rear tank if I can trick the fuel transfer module to think that the rear tank is always empty.  Should be a matter of just connecting the wires that run from the rear sender.  This should give me 0 ohms resistance to the fuel module and forever keep the rear fuel pump turned off.  Then it's just capping the fuel lines to and from the rear tank.A new sender for my front tank will fix my fuel gauge, I hope.... Originally Posted by tbone550I had an ex-CSX railroad 96 3500HD service truck with crane body, and it came with the factory window sticker.  It was optioned from the factory with rear tank delete.  I think the front tank held 19 gals.  I also had the 6.5TD, and I started getting nervous past 150 miles on the tank.  Before I mounted the crane I got 12 mpg, after the crane 10 mpg.  Side note: the F-550 I now own has more power, but like you said earlier the 6.5 does fine.  Aside from needing to keep a spare $300 injection pump module in the glovebox.  One thing I liked about the 6.5 was the turbo whistle at idle.  I cut the exhaust pipe behind the cab and put a turndown on it, and that thing whistled like nobody's business.  Did the same thing to the F-550 except the turndown is angled to the side, and no whistle is to be heard.
Reply:OK, here are some shots of what I'm thinking of mounting behind the welder. First I'll fabricate some runners to sit on top of the truck's frame rails.  Then add a flat work deck.  Once that's done it's on to fabricating a very large toolbox.  Then mounting lights on the box.  1 light in each corner, 2 facing rear and 2 facing forward.  All mounted on swivels.The work bench has 2 receivers for mounting a grinder or vise.  Might put the vise on a receiver mount so I can store it away in the toolbox between jobs.The tool box has posts to keep stock in place.  I've got the materials for a roller on a post so I can slide a ladder or long stock up top on the truck.  This roller mounts in a third receiver that'll also take a trailer hitch.The work bench will be 1/4, 3/8 or maybe 1/2" plate.  Cost and weight will decide which I use.  The diagonal tubes underneath should serve to stiffen the whole deck.  I'm keeping them back from the edges to make clamping things down easier.  If I decide I need more space or a good surface for torch work, I'll add a could sections of bar grate that hinge down from the rear edge of the deck.  They'll have chains or spring loaded pins to lock them up in place when not in use.I haven't drawn it up yet, but between the cab and the welder will be a gas bottle rack and another support for long stock that extends out over the cab.It's not shown in the pictures both both the bench and the toolbox will have lifting lugs so they can be taken off the truck if needed.  Both will be bolted down to the rails with 1/2" grade 8 hardware; the same fasteners that hold the rails to the truck frame.They'll be space for cable hangers, or reels inside that large toolbox.  Not sure which one I'll use.Anybody have any suggestions? Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Suggestions ?I have a trough on the rear edge of my truck's bed. It's a piece of angle iron welded to the rear edge all the way across. It's super handy for holding a piece of stock while working on it. I lay pipe, angle, channel or whatever in the trough and it won't move or roll off the bed while I'm welding, cutting or drilling on it. It's also handy to lay welding rod and soapstone in while doing a project on the bed.Kevin- Springtown, TexasTruck:Chevy cab/ chassis 1 ton dually, big block and flatbedMiller BobcatVictor cutting rigTool boxes crammed full of stuffShop:Millermatic 250Lincoln 135Lincoln 225AC tombstone
Reply:Thanks.  Something like this?  I've seen that on other rigs and thought it was a good idea.  It takes up edge that I could use for clamping...  I'll see if I can set it in the benchtop a few inches back from the edge.  That'll make the tubeframe underneath alot more complicated, but would leave me with a "thin" edge that makes it easier to clamp things down.I also need to add some tie downs for moving things on this flat deck... Originally Posted by Ayers GarageSuggestions ?I have a trough on the rear edge of my truck's bed. It's a piece of angle iron welded to the rear edge all the way across. It's super handy for holding a piece of stock while working on it. I lay pipe, angle, channel or whatever in the trough and it won't move or roll off the bed while I'm welding, cutting or drilling on it. It's also handy to lay welding rod and soapstone in while doing a project on the bed.
Reply:Once I get all this built there will be fenders for the rear wheels and maybe a skirt with under-bed storage.  But that will take some serious thought to do without making it impossible to remove this thing in sections....Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:OK,  Finally have time to post photos of more progress.Removed the rear auxilary fuel tank and cleaned up wiring. Ordered new fuel sending unit for the front tank and a new heater core, as I noticed coolant dribbling into the passenger side footwell yesterday.  sigh.Got the bed frame rails notched to sit flush on the truck frame rails.  Welded on mounting tabs.  Drilled tabs and bolted to the truck frame.  I got lucky because there were several slots cut by the factory that I was able to use for bolting.  Each side has at least 1 drilled hole, so there's no chance the rails will move.  They butt up against the edge of the front frame rails as well.Got the frame for the bed workbench cut and welded.  3/8" steel sheet will get delivered and I'll install it once I've primed and painted the rails framework, and underside of the work top.Might add some diagonal tubes to the work bench frame if I think the top has too much flex.Once the frame rails and work bench are permanently mounted, it's on to the toolbox and wheel wells....stay tuned. Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Coolant inside the cab? Sounds like the heater core is going? Trucks looking really good. Good to hear your changing out that brutal looking fuel pump sending unit. May be a big headache down the road when your welder is on the deck and the pump kicks the bucket.
Reply:Originally Posted by oxygen454Coolant inside the cab? Sounds like the heater core is going? Trucks looking really good. Good to hear your changing out that brutal looking fuel pump sending unit.
Reply:Good looking work. The only thing I can see that would be an improvement would be a red machine. That blue thing clashes with the yellow truck.
Reply:If I could afford the cost and the weight/space, I'd keep the 300D and the new MIller both on the truck.But it's just not in the cards... Originally Posted by OldtimerGood looking work. The only thing I can see that would be an improvement would be a red machine. That blue thing clashes with the yellow truck.
Reply:Making Progress...Workbench frame welded to new 3/8" steel plate.  There's nothing quite like working with new steel.  It's flat, clean, easy to weld.  And it costs a small fortune.  But for the top to the bench it's worth it.I didn't get photos but both frame rails and the underside of the work table were coated with Ospho (Thanks Dave), and then a brushed with a coat of Rustoleum semi-gloss black.  You'll notice that some of the tube steel is recycled from other projects and the previous truck bed.  The 1/2 quart of rustoleum was left over from a project earlier this year.  I'm trying to economize where I can and where it makes sense to.stitch welds on the bench made with 0.045" solid wire, 18.2 volts, 180 IPM, about 180 amps.  Mixed Ar/CO2 shielding gas.  Maybe, maybe just a little low for the 3/8" plate.  But things looked wetted in OK to me, and I was worried about burning holes through the 1/8" wall tubing.  The center cross tube is 0.09" (because it was handy and the right length) and I burned through it almost before I realized it.  Like has been mentioned before here, when welding pieces that are different thickness, set your heat for the thicker piece, keep the arc on the thicker base metal most of the time, and wash or push the puddle onto the thinner material.  Works like a charm.A friend reminded me before starting to keep my welds out of the inner corners, in the unlikely event I ever had to cut the top off of the framework.  Good advice.  Weld sequencing and assembly.  The new steel top has a camber, or curve to it from rolling in the steel mill.  I set the top so it curved away from the frame and then used clamps to pull it tight.  Welds were made starting from the center, where the plate is naturally tight to the frame.  Then each was made moving out from the center and alternating from side to side.  The end result is a flat top.Mostly this top is a place to rest pieces during work, assemble things flat and square, and transport things back to my shop.  If I were doing really heavy pulling or hammering, I'd have added more crossmembers underneath and more frequent stitch welds. Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Don't forget the cup holders!!!!AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:Originally Posted by Donald BranscomDon't forget the cup holders!!!!
Reply:Welding around tires, I know the feeling. I used to mount concrete pumpers and we had to wrap ourselves under the pump and between the dualies. Also had to make sure to remove the battery cables to prevent the computer and other electronics from frying. Oh and cover the tires with fire proof blankets lol. As for welding thin gauge to thick. I normally aim almost all my wire/heat at the thick plate and I let the puddle wash towards the thinner plate or tube. Im sure you know this. You wont get even legs on your fillet weld but its defiantly burned in good.
Reply:The plate, because it's attached to the frame thru the bed/body will warp with the twist on the frame.  Make sure it's parked on fairly level ground if you intend to use it as a portable fab table."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammThe plate, because it's attached to the frame thru the bed/body will warp with the twist on the frame.  Make sure it's parked on fairly level ground if you intend to use it as a portable fab table.