Tried some stainless, thoughts?

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Tried a cap on a 3" round stainless pipe. 63amps max, 3/32 blue lanthanted, 15cfh, 1/16th 308 filler and tried back purging for the first time. Put the hose in the end and used some aluminum tape and set it to 10cfh on the flow meter.Not hot enough? It's mostly grey in color (except the inside pic) is grey the color I'm looking for?Last edited by Gamble; 10-28-2012 at 12:45 AM.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:No the grey is too hot. Youarelookingfor a rainbow look. Youshould see red bule yellow purple ect.Offering CNC Plasma cutting and welding projects.Follow me on facebook https://www.facebook.com/nobigdeal.fabSupport those that support WW.
Reply:Gamble, as mentioned grey is too hot. Colors are Ok. Take a look at SquirmyPug's SS T joint he posted up in Ricks thread. You can see the rainbow colors where he started/stopped, where the heat radiated out from the weld, just like you see them on the sides and on the inside of your pipe. The bead itself has a very nice straw color to it which shows that the bead didn't get too hot.http://weldingweb.com/showpost.php?p...&postcount=141.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I prefer to have the cap fit the pipe so that there is a "V" all the way around the weld... not flush with the sides of the pipe.DannyMy SiteJust worrying 'bout what I can't get to today.
Reply:In the first pic I see a restart, looks like you started with low amps and went too slow so the puddle would be bigger. Try higher amps to start and get the puddle moving, after it heats up some you can back off the pedal a little. Allot of guys keep a long arc while tig welding, with stainless a really close arc and short stickout will help with argon coverage. As you practice dif. joints with tig you will notice some joints need more argon flow also, it is more noticable with stainless.
Reply:What should I have my argon flow set to when doing stainless? I usually keep it at 15cfh and don't know what types of welds or material I should have more flow for.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:What size cup? For #4 cup I usually set 10-15cfh -#6 15-20cfh #8 20-30..sometimes higher if I need a long stickout. On edge and outside corner joints you sometimes need more argon flow or shorter stickout because there is nothing keeping the argon in the joint like a T joint or a groove weld. Then theres problems if its windy..need a little more flow and sometimes a bigger cup to keep the hot area shielded. You will learn what works for you, just play with dif. cup sizes torch angles and types of joints. Have fun
Reply:It's a ck9 torch and a gas lens with a #7 cup. The only cups I have for this setup is a 6,7,8. Should I try the 6?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:The #7 cup will be fine, try a little higher cfh maybe 20 if you want to use less argon switch to a smaller cup. Run a few beads with no filler and keep the puddle the same size the whole time. Try dif. travel speeds and cfh untill you get the color weld you want (not gray)
Reply:Cool, I will try it out, Is back purging even needed on a joint like this?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:You should try 1mm filler rod or no filler at all. Also try to weld 2,5mm or 1inch at the time and let stainless to cool down. It's hard to get nice colour on edge weld like this. For #7 gas lens cup I use 5-6 lpm (10-12cfh). You can do a test of shielding gas --> grab a piece of stainless and melt a point for few seconds, then let it cool down (leave torch in the same position and use 10s of post flow). Weld should be silver without any discoloration. If it's not, try higher argon flow. If that doesnt help, you probably have leak or bad argon bottle.Last edited by ravselj; 10-28-2012 at 03:43 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleCool, I will try it out, Is back purging even needed on a joint like this?