Ok what am I doing wrong? tacking alum w/ tig

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Im following this video from welding tips and tricks.[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ny-glWjl9pk[/ame]And this is what I come up with.THEN the very next time (without changing any settings) I get this.Its real thin sheet (like .030) and here are my settingsMiller syncrowave 2501/6th 2% tung   #4 cup  35 amphad amp control on "panel", output "remote", 30% balance, HiFreq continuous (couldn't get anything on Hi freq start.)no pulse or any that fancy stuff on this machine.I thought I was getting the same torch angle and position everytime, but thats the only thing I can think of that could change.If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:Watch the video again....pay close attention starting at 1:40http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:It has to be the arc length then. I will try it again tomorrow, I have a whole brand new pack of tungsten and I dont care to contaminate every damn one of them to get this right. If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:in the video he talks about using almost double if not more amperage than he would for welding to do the tacks, is 35 double what you'd use to weld that?ESAB MigMaster 275Miller Econotwin HFMiller Syncrowave 250
Reply:If you listen to Jody in his video of quick-tacking, he is using his technique on steel.  I doubt that the same method works on aluminum, due to the rapid heat conductivity.  Your first tacks are done on cold metal, and as you continue along the edge, subsequent tacks are done on hot metal.  Hence... the burn-through, since you've "pre-heated" the weld area.You'll, probably, have better luck turning the amps down on aluminum, and/or backing the joint with copper or steel to absorb some of the heat.
Reply:Double your amps, then hit the peddle all the way fast not slow, this seems to work for me...Try it on scrap's untill you figure out what the problem is...Last edited by DemonSpeeder; 02-24-2012 at 01:39 AM.Lincoln pro mig 180Lincoln Square Wave Tig 300/wp 20/home built water cooler Victor, Purox, Harris, O/A welding/cutting setupsVintage Craftsman drill pressVintage Craftsman/Atlas 12"x 36'' lathe7''x 12'' w/c band saw Everlast 140 st
Reply:Originally Posted by DemonSpeederDouble your amps, then hit the peddle all the way fast not slow, this seems to work for me...Try it on scrap's untill you figure out what the problem is...
Reply:.030 alum is super thin. You had better have your heat control down very well to get decent results. 1/16" alum will be tough enough if you are just learning because of how thin it is. 1/8" is probably a better choice, but 1/16" is doable if your heat control skills are decent..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:The fit up seems different on those two joint to me as well.  I too have a tough time tacking Aluminum with some filler.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:I can't see the video here at work, but if it is the one when he is tackin using high amps for a quick pulse, that is only good on steel."ALL DAMAGE, NO CONTROL"
Reply:So this happens because the metal is hot and not because it's dirty?When i took the class at HTP this happened to the instructor so he stopped and wire brushed it, and did it again and it worked perfectly fine.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Fitup is crucial in a joint like this.  If the two pieces can't share the heat, the puddle will retreat from the edge before you can bridge the gap.  INTIMATE contact is what's needed.  Aluminum is tricky too because when tacking the arc will inevitably favor one plate and even moving the torch toward the other plate sometimes won't get the arc to establish on the other plate in time.  It's kinda like being a snake charmer.  You have to coax the arc to heat both plates at the same time.  But once that first tack is established, running the bead is easy because the puddle is distributing the heat evenly to both sides.  But doing autogenous tacks on material that thin is asking for trouble...just get some .035 mig wire.  Even with intimate contact, once the heat hits that metal, thermal expansion takes over and if your clamping is not spot on, the plates will move away from each other.  Even a .002" gap is enough to keep the two plates from sharing the heat. And remember, autogenous welds on 6XXX series aluminum are prone to hot cracking, so you really need filler.  5XXX and 3XXX no problem though.P.S. you mentioned you couldn't get anything with your HiFreq setting on start....that's 'cause it's AC yo!  When the voltage does through zero on its way from pos to neg, the arc will extinguish without that high freq jumping the gap.  That's the way all machines of that type work.  Same reason 6010 SMAW electrodes don't work with AC power supplies.  Zero Voltage = no arcLast edited by bebo; 03-29-2012 at 03:03 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by nogoa...that is only good on steel.
Reply:Nobody is gonna be able to talk you through this bud, its kinda something you learn through experience, time practicing, and experimenting, which is what your doing now, which is great. My opinion is a long fine point on your tungsten. It will burn back when your running, but all your concerned with at this point is getting your first drop down, then the hard part is over. If your new to this I would not suggest cranking up the amps and standing on the pedal than backing off. I would suggest turning up the amperage and slightly lean on the pedal and watch you arc stumble, and feather the pedal til it catches up to what you need. With that sharp point focus your heat on the upright piece, it can take the heat better. Get your first drop on it then you could slightly add a little pedal to it, and that drop will spread right to the flat piece next to it. DONE! go next. It's hard to explain over a computer, but I hope that helped. Just remember. You can hold an infinate puddle with a tig, so wouldnt you feel more comfortable waiting till you get your foot pedal and heat just right and going about it gracefully than pounding on the pedal and trying to get a tack down like a nut because you instantley almost wrecked what you just spent a half hour preparing. Nice and easy bud, welders only look like roughnecks, gotta learn to be soft and gentle sometimes. Cheers bud, hope it helped. I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:If you will slightly gag your tungsten as soon as the two sides start to melt, they will flow together. After that strike an arc on your brass or copper ground clamp and go full pedal for just a second; don't hold it at full, then the next tack wont keep being smokier than the last.  After all tacks are made, change tungsten of regrind that one you used for tacking.Two turn tables and a microphone.
Reply:By golly I think I got it!!!!Redneck clamping system I stuck the tungsten a few times and only had one blowout today. MAN does this little trick make life easier I still aint giving up on the real thin sheet. I think I may be able to get it (consistently)  with more practice.If you cant fix it with a hammer, it must be an electrical problem."Boy, everyone starts with a full bag of luck and an empty bag of experience. The trick is to fill the bag of experience before the bag of luck is empty."-Grandad circa 1990ish
Reply:Good for you. What did you do different?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:On the original .030" material I would have used a .040 tungsten and put the amp control to REMOTE.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleGood for you. What did you do different?
Reply:The .040 ceriated tungstens are very useful and they can be pushed to do some thicker material than you would expect (just don't allow them to melt off).Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig  Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:A guy showed me a trick one time with tacking thin material because I couldn't do what you were trying to do. It was .040 thick aluminum. He said to get the aluminum a little hot then use the torch to melt the filler and that will make a tac. I tried it a few times and it works ok.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer