Botched 5th wheel install. Thoughts on welding stainless piece into pickup bed.

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Had a 5th wheel put in 8 years ago and brought my spanking sweet F350 Superduty back to the same place. This time Mongo knuckle dragger did the install. Supposed to be a 4" hole. NOT! Big friggen hole with square end. And 2" closer to the cab than the install spec. And the receiver assembly was installed backwards to match the hole. And the safety tie down chain U bolts were installed on the TOP of the bed ribs. Hack drilled from below and not deburred at all. Anyway, I am thinking of making a small Stainless steel plate with a full radius on each end and welding it into the bed with the proper 4" hole location. And mig the U bolt holes shut and re paint after they are re located.Had to clean my foot from shoving it up the company owners.......Thoughts on the stainless to truck bed steel?
Reply:Sounds like someone owes you for a new bed,installation of the bed and the hitch.
Reply:They owe you a new bed and repair to the truck frame "cross members" if they were damaged. I would not accept a "sloppy" repair.Craftsman Stick WelderLincoln 180c MIG welderHarris O/A gas welder
Reply:Any photos?
Reply:They screwed up they are responseable for repairing the damage they did. I think they owe you a new bed1982 miller blue star 2E ac/dcHarbor freight flux core posVictor oa
Reply:I know I could get a new bed. Life experience tells me that process would introduce a lot of variables out of my control, as well as downtime. I just need pros and cons of welding a piece of stainless into the bed. It would not be them doing it, far beyond what they could do. It would not look like a patch when I am done (some billet type stuff in mind). The frame bolted parts are to spec and the ball hitch part can be put in either way, depends on model year.
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Reply:Originally Posted by Sputter FizzleHad a 5th wheel put in 8 years ago and brought my spanking sweet F350 Superduty back to the same place. This time Mongo knuckle dragger did the install. Supposed to be a 4" hole. NOT! Big friggen hole with square end. And 2" closer to the cab than the install spec. And the receiver assembly was installed backwards to match the hole. And the safety tie down chain U bolts were installed on the TOP of the bed ribs. Hack drilled from below and not deburred at all. Anyway, I am thinking of making a small Stainless steel plate with a full radius on each end and welding it into the bed with the proper 4" hole location. And mig the U bolt holes shut and re paint after they are re located.Had to clean my foot from shoving it up the company owners.......Thoughts on the stainless to truck bed steel?
Reply:Could you find a salvage bed and cut out a patch. For what new trucks cost there is no way you should accept the job. DanManipulator Of Metal
Reply:Originally Posted by ChrisA7164Sounds like Bradfords.
Reply:I think a nice PC of 1/8 tig welded in would look nice use stainless wire you will have to paint after don't worry about masking just take the polisher to the area you want shiney after
Reply:i dont know why you would use a piece of stainless but it wouldnt NOT workVantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Got pics of the botch job?To weld up the mis-drilled U-bolt holes and 'finish' that part of the repair, you may have to pull the bed off anyway.  By 'finish', I mean to do the weld prep and then the weld and then the planishing and/or grinding to smooth and level the weld repair spots, and then the primer/sealer coat(s) and then the base coat(s) of paint and then the clear coat(s) of paint.  On the top and the bottom of the bed.  Unless you are just going for the 'welds with rattle can primer on top of them' look.  Uggg.New (or 'mostly' new) truck and you want it to look 'nice'?  Or old beat-up work truck with some 'character' to it?As to the stainless plate welded to the carbon steel bed?  Why are you picking stainless?  You'll still have to paint and protect the weld joint (top and bottom) to keep the non-stainless part (including the weld bead itself) from rusting.  Lap joint for your proposed stainless plate to truck bed weld?  That's a major trap point for corrosion, especially in the northeast with the road salt in the winter.  And especially from underneath, where the salt and grime will be splashed up and then be able to corrode the bottom of the lap joint unseen until too late.IMHO, pull the botched bed and just replace it.  Put the correct size/location holes where they are supposed to go and paint/seal those hole edges.  Done.  Sell the botched bed to someone who can accept the 'character' of said butchered bed.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:How would you match, or weld to, the ridges in the existing bed?
Reply:I doubt the material, steel vs. stainless will make much difference, you'll need to paint it no matter what. Have you considered fastening a patch with rivets and adhesive. Butt welds on sheet metal are difficult, and prone to cracking. Fastening a patch with rivets would also allow you to paint everything ahead of time. A good sheet metal guy could make a patch that perfectly matched the ridges in the bed.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools