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Hi all, I want to start by saying that I've been reading through posts here and other welding sites for the last 3-4 weeks trying to decide on a welder. I am a total noob, never welded, always wanted to. I also suffer from analysis paralysis - so I'm looking for some experienced feedback.Let me preface this as well by stating that my initial goal with all of this was to weld safety spotter arms/j-hooks/pull-up bar for use with a home made squat rack (similar to the Rogue SM-2 designed here: http://www.roguefitness.com/rogue-sm...quat-stand.php). This design would be mostly bolt-together with 1-inch hardware and 7-gauge steel (which I believe is 3/16"?). I know it will take a significant amount of practice before I get to a comfortable level for any sort of welds of this nature - this was just my initial motivation. Overall I see welding as a life-long skill that will be valuable in many regards and I'm looking forward to learning and practicing.Research HistoryI started out looking at the 110 volt flux core route, decided against it after reading here. Further research led to the Stickmate LX 235. I have a 30 amp dryer plug a few feet from the door to the garage, so this would be running off of that with a dryer-to-welder cord as described in other posts on here.However, after looking through more of the beginner threads/stickies, it seems like Migs are the recommended way to go for ease of use. I don't mind taking the time to learn something like stick, but I don't know if this is the best route. Many of the beginner posts were similar to my situation, but I guess I just want some experienced/professional feedback before I sink a decent amount of money into gear.The Main Criteria For My Welding SetupAlright--sorry, that was kind of long--and it's late here and I should really be going to bed, but here goes . . .Budget: Ideal: $600 for a welder, Goal: $1000 total for welder+accessories+other tools Absolute Max: $1300-$1500 for tools needed for squat rack project - welder/accessories/safety equipment, bench top drill press (cheapy-maybe?), grinder(s) (I liked one poster's idea of having 3 grinders, wire/cutoff/sander), possibly a cutoff saw/similar, clamps, any other tools you guys can think of to start?Type of Welding planned: mild steel, up to 1/4" for now.Looking to buy new for sake of ease and not having to wait forever for something to pop up. Haven't seen anything in the past 3 weeks locally worthwhile/in my price range.Overall, I guess I'm asking stick vs. mig or stickmate lx 235 vs. [something else] in the $600 price range that would work on a 30A dryer plug and be able to at least weld 3/16" to 1/4" steel (without gas). The other thing I have seen is that it seems relatively inexpensive to buy rods for stick welding vs. the more expensive spools for mig. Does this even out over time, or is flux core on a mig simply more expensive?I know this is similar to the hundreds of other "help me pick a welder" posts, but I do think getting some personalized feedback will be very helpful, so I really appreciate you guys taking the time to look at this and respond. I work during the day, but hopefully I can get on at lunch and answer any questions you might have.Thanks for the help!Jeff
Reply:Thermal Arc 181i multiprocess for $899.You can mig and change to stick or DC tig when needed.Migs gonna shine with thin stuff, but it's also the easiest method to get good looking welds that are weak and non penetrating. Some practice with stick and your welds generally behave like what they appear to be. In experienced hands, all welds are just as strong. But if the welder is inexperienced, I'd rather trust a good looking 7018 stick weld over a mig weld any day.
Reply:I started with the Stickmate you mention and loved it. Only sold it after I bought a Syncrowave 250, which will also do stick. I don't know enough about MIG to comment, other than people telling me that you could get welds that LOOK good but aren't...
Reply:I think you should take a welding class to compare both mig and stick. I think if you do you will find mig is a more user friendly process than stick when it comes to clean up and painting. It will cost a little more to set up for mig but in the long run it will save you time and money especially if your doing many of what you plan to weld. Stick is very good but you will have spadder to clean up along with chipping the slag off before you can do any painting. If you use mig with C25 gas and hard wire you will be able to paint pretty much right after it cools down, very little to no clean up with mig.Next, your dryer plug will probably run a stickmate but to weld 1/4 inch steel properly I'm pretty sure you will be running your circuit to it's maximum capacity and may pop the breaker. The stickmate requires a 50 amp breaker to run. I know, you say you don't need to weld anything heavier than 1/4 steel but after you learn to weld I guarantee at some point you will need to run your stickmate at a higher amperage than the 30 amp circuit can handle. If you buy the stickmate put in a 50 amp circuit.Next, a mig powerful enough to weld 1/4 will run on your 30 amp circuit with no problem. The Hobart 190 and 210 will weld 1/4, the 190 needs a 20 amp circuit and the 210 takes 24 amps to run. I see no problem for your existing circuit. Both the 190 and 210 are very good welders, the 190 can be bought for around $650 in my area, it also comes with a regulator so all you need is a tank of C25 or C02 and a roll of hard wire to start welding. A 2 pound roll of hard wire is less than $10.00 in my area but if you plan to weld many of your parts the bigger 10 pound roll is much more economical. Also, the 190 and 210 are NOT production welders so if you plan to mass produce your parts you need to look into a bigger setup. I own a 210 and it's been an outstanding welder for me and it's over $200 less than a miller or Lincoln in my area.In my humble opinion I think you would be better off with a mig welder. A mig is more user friendly because it can mig weld, flux cored weld(similar to stick)weld aluminum(with a spool gun) and also weld stainless. The mig process pretty much covers what the average hobby person needs to weld.What ever you do good luck,
Reply:How far from Springfield are you?http://springfieldil.craigslist.org/tls/4408904482.htmlAlso, I have this one, and am as tickled with it as I am with my Miller 250 Twin, and my Lincoln Weld Pak 155:http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5145_200485145Taking a welding class at the local Jr. College is a good idea.It will save you an awful lot of trial and error(mostly error).It will also give you confidence knowing why you are choosing to use a certain process over another, and why that process needs to be set up a certain way.Have fun!!
Reply:Wow-thanks for all of the responses guys! You have hit on the things I asked about, as well as others that I didn't or didn't elaborate on. Drf255, I didn't realize there was a multiprocess machine sub-$1500 - The Thermal Arc 181i is a little more than what I was thinking, but if it would be worth it in the long run, I may consider the extra cost. Kelvin-thanks for the feedback on your experience with the Stickmate. I have read great things about it, especially for the price. I too have heard the "cold weld" issues with mig. One of the biggest reasons I was hesitant with mig was obtaining/using the gas and what I would be able to weld I guess. Kctgb - thanks for all of the info - you actually answered probably my biggest question, which I'm not really sure I emphasized at all or very well in my initial post. This was with regard to amp draw/power consumption (specifically on the 30A dryer outlet). I had read about guys running the stickmate around 90A and not tripping the 30A breaker, but clearly this is not the max capacity for the unit, which, as you said, is designed for 50A. I really don't want to go the route of installing a new 50A breaker. I have been looking all over the place for specifics on how many amps the various machines draw at various operating amperage. I read a few days back that with the transformer welders, there could be an initial spike > 40A regardless of actual operating amperage, which would trigger the 30A breaker. Knowing that the Hobart 190/210 need 20A and 24A respectively is great to know and exactly what I have not been able to find (I'm not sure if these are specified on the spec sheets and I missed them/didn't understand how to read them, or there is some calculation I could do to figure it out). Just to clarify - both the 190 and 210 should be able to run full steam on the 30A breaker without tripping it based on this information, right? I didn't want to mis-interpret that information.Based on this information alone, I am all but sold on going the mig route, not to mention the relative ease of use for a beginner (at least compared to stick). I do want to take a class--we had a community education newspaper flyer a few weeks ago and there was a welding workshop, but I don't have the sheet and can't find it onlline. We do have some community/jr. colleges around town that I may look into.So if I go the mig route, is it worth it to start out with flux core (no gas), or just invest in the full setup with solid core and gas? How difficult is it to go the gas route in terms of getting the gas (either pick up or delivery)? Is it best to go with the largest tank? I am in Bloomington, IL, and I believe there is at least one welding supply, as well as the usual big box stores/Farm and Fleet/TSC. How expensive is it? Will this be another 4-500 on top of the cost of the welder or more/less? I assume either way it would be worth it? Are there any limitations for the size of tank I can have in a residential garage?Geezerbill - I am about an hour or a little more from Springfield. How does the quality of that lincoln compare to the Hobarts mentioned by Kctgb? I know most of these machines have great reviews and feedback, and that usually you can't go wrong with the Lincoln/Miller/Hobart route. Your Northern Tool welder looks great and it's nice to hear from a user that it works well. I appreciate the feedback. I think part of the problem is being new and not having a ton of information/background, and there being so many possibilities/options to choose from.Thanks again for the help!
Reply:I am going to hop in on the side of the ta181i. I love the hobart, but the multiprocess capabilities of the ta make it a great starting welder. I will do everything you need for years to come. By the time you outgrow it, you will have all the experience you need to know what you need next. Sent from my SPH-L900 using TapatalkMultimatic 200Ellis 1800Haberle S225 9" cold sawMM 300; Spoolmate 30A w/ WC-24TB 302GDynasty 280 DX Tigrunner
Reply:While not the exact machine as the one in the link, I used to have a Lincoln Power Mig 180c, which was a very nice machine.It did have infinite voltage control instead of stepped control.That is one of the reasons I did get the Northern Tool hybrid - along with the increased duty cycle, and spool gun.The only reason I sold the 180, is I needed cash to get a slip roll. I had my Lincoln 155 and 180 on c'list, and the 180 sold first.A big plus for the TA is the lift start feature with TIG.While I am perfectly comfortable with scratch start (which is what I have with the NT), lift start makes life a lot easier when tigging.Last edited by geezerbill; 04-25-2014 at 08:56 PM.
Reply:1st) Both the 190 and 210 will run on a 30 amp breaker. Go to the hobart web site and click on each welder and all the specifications are there. I'm sure a Miller or Lincoln will do the same but I don't have the specifications for those welders. I live in Wisconsin and Fleet Farm has 190's at $649.00 as of today.2nd) For the welding you plan on doing I would go mig with hard wire with C25, the flux cored is much like stick welding with a lot of clean up and not so good for welding thin stuff.3rd) If you plan on doing lots of welding my advice is to buy a 150 cubic foot tank of C25, its more economical to fill the larger tank than it is to fill a small tank. Last week I bought a 150 tank of argon filled for $225.00, a refill is $43.00. I get between 9 and ten hours of weld time out of the 150 for tig and about 7 hours of weld time for my mig welder.4th) In my area the 150 is the biggest tank a person can buy and I have no limitations or restrictions on the tanks where I live.5th) the miller and Lincoln welders are every bit as good as the Hobart but in my area they are over $200 more than the Hobart. Both Hobart and Miller are owned by the same parent company (ITW) Illinois tool works. I don't like to bad mouth any welder but when it comes to service and repair here in Wisconsin it's Hobart, Miller or Lincoln. I have had outstanding service from Miller, Hobart and lincoln. I'm pretty sure you will have a hard time getting the Northern welder repaired at your local welding store, where I live they won't even look at it.6th) I'm not a fan of multi process machines, in my experience they don't hold up as well as a single process welder( this is my opinion so take it for what it's worth). for the welding you plan on doing I don't see a multi process machine would be good for you at this time. Learn how to weld first before you buy the latest greatest multi process welding machine. They tend to be quite expensive and most times not necessary.If you buy the 190, a 150 cbf tank and a 2 pound roll of hard wire you should be up and welding for somewhere around $900.00. Maybe a few extra tips and everything should be golden. Don't forget about a helmet and gloves.I still think a welding class would be good before you buy anything.Good luck,Last edited by kctgb; 04-25-2014 at 10:19 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by kctgb1st) Both the 190 and 210 will run on a 30 amp breaker. Go to the hobart web site and click on each welder and all the specifications are there. I'm sure a Miller or Lincoln will do the same but I don't have the specifications for those welders. I live in Wisconsin and Fleet Farm has 190's at $649.00 as of today.2nd) For the welding you plan on doing I would go mig with hard wire with C25, the flux cored is much like stick welding with a lot of clean up and not so good for welding thin stuff.3rd) If you plan on doing lots of welding my advice is to buy a 150 cubic foot tank of C25, its more economical to fill the larger tank than it is to fill a small tank. Last week I bought a 150 tank of argon filled for $225.00, a refill is $43.00. I get between 9 and ten hours of weld time out of the 150 for tig and about 7 hours of weld time for my mig welder.4th) In my area the 150 is the biggest tank a person can buy and I have no limitations or restrictions on the tanks where I live.5th) the miller and Lincoln welders are every bit as good as the Hobart but in my area they are over $200 more than the Hobart. Both Hobart and Miller are owned by the same parent company (ITW) Illinois tool works. I don't like to bad mouth any welder but when it comes to service and repair here in Wisconsin it's Hobart, Miller or Lincoln. I have had outstanding service from Miller, Hobart and lincoln. I'm pretty sure you will have a hard time getting the Northern welder repaired at your local welding store, where I live they won't even look at it.6th) I'm not a fan of multi process machines, in my experience they don't hold up as well as a single process welder( this is my opinion so take it for what it's worth). for the welding you plan on doing I don't see a multi process machine would be good for you at this time. Learn how to weld first before you buy the latest greatest multi process welding machine. They tend to be quite expensive and most times not necessary.If you buy the 190, a 150 cbf tank and a 2 pound roll of hard wire you should be up and welding for somewhere around $900.00. Maybe a few extra tips and everything should be golden. Don't forget about a helmet and gloves.I still think a welding class would be good before you buy anything.Good luck,
Reply:I finally managed to find the summer welding course offering. Here it is: https://communityedregistration.hear...assNumber=2786 It looks reasonable to me. $190 for 5 sessions on Sundays 1-4 PM. Stick/Mig and Oxy. Would this be a good investment? Would I lose anything by getting a welder setup and learning on my own beforehand? I don't really want to wait until mid-July to start. I know that whatever ability I gain on my own will probably vastly improve under proper instruction. It certainly doesn't seem like a bad way to go, and I'd get some experience in other types of welding (even if I end up only doing mig at home).
Reply:The only thing you will lose is money if you buy the setup before you take the welding class. There are certain techniques that an instructor should teach you for welding in different situations. I have seen many people go buy a welding setup thinking they can learn welding by them self, after spending lots of money on materials they become frustrated because they can't lay down a good weld and usually quit and sell everything cheap on Craigslist. My advice to you is take the class first, learn the techniques for welding flat and vertical up they are the two most common positions. After you have mastered that you can add to your skill level and learn other techniques for welding. When your spending the better part of a $1000 it's always best to be patient and learn first. I don't think $190.00 is excessive for a good welding class if they supply all the materials, it will be money well spent.What ever you do good luck,
Reply:Just read your post on here and you can get c25 gas from your local TSC. Good luck and welcome to the wonderful world of welding!Hobart 125 EZHobart Handler 140Everlast STH 160Generic 210 Amp Welder/GeneratorHobart Air Force 500i plasma cutterChinese 50 amp plasma cutter! Youtube Channel : Henrymac100
Reply:Thanks kctgb - I am heeding your advice (as well as the dozens of other posts I've seen for beginners) to take the class first and get some instruction. I'm not a fan of wasting money, espcially when a lot of money is involved, and I know that even though anyone can pull the trigger, getting quality welds will come fastest with a little instruction. I'm a big proponent of being able to ask questions and get feedback on any sort of skill, so this definitely seems like the best route. July isn't too far away and it will give me something to look forward to this summer. Then, after/during the class I can look into getting a welding setup and start off on the right foot. I just signed up for the class so hopefully it won't be full (I'm not sure on the total class size and there is no count on seats left). Thanks again for your insight with all of this - I have a much clearer picture of what I want/need to do and the best way to get started.Henrymac-thanks for mentioning about c25 at TSC. I had read on some posts that TSC had a gas exchange program. I know some guys said it was a little more expensive but in their eyes worth it because of the convenience of the store and the hours (being open later). I think we have a rental place that may exchange tanks as well, I know they do for oxy-acetylene because my grandfather exchanges his there. I did some research and we have a couple of other welding supply places apparently, PraxAir and Encompass Gas. Not sure how those work, but I figure if I take the class, I can probably ask the instructor or others in the class with some experience where to get gas (besides broccoli and beans )Thanks again - looking forward to learning a lot!
Reply:I wouldn't recommend going with a MIG...too easy to make welds that look good but aren't. With stick welding, if it looks good, it probably is. You aren't planning on welding anything thin from the sound of it, and some of what you are welding could hurt you if you don't weld it correctly (squat rack). I understand the attraction to MIG, but my advice is to gos tick to start.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:And $600 is too much to pay for a stick ate LX AC/DC.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:This little 230 amp AC welder will do everything you want for $100. This is a good way to start out with little investment. Pick up some 6011, 6013, and 7014 rod, and that will get you started. Also, if you do this, it will make you a better MIG welder later on.http://peoria.craigslist.org/grd/4426404970.htmlMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:Thanks for the comments Louie1961. This was my original plan-learn on stick, move to mig later. $100 setup is much more reasonable-would you recommend grabbing something like that and learning/messing around a bit? I am signed up for an intro class in July (stick/mig/oxy). There seems to be a division on whether to start with stick or mig. I don't like the idea of cold welds, though I would hope after a class I would feel more confident. Would grabbing a welder like that one be a good option to start on my own? I mean could grab that today even. Would it be okay on a 30A dryer outlet?Thanks again!Last edited by CodingAndWelding; 04-26-2014 at 02:18 PM.Reason: Forgot to add something.
Reply:I am no expert by any means. But I think my case is very similar to yours. I am self taught. I started on stick, and honestly haven't fully mastered it yet (still working on out of position welds), but am pretty comfortable welding tee, lap and butt joints in horizontal. Bought a MIG after about a year, just because I "had" to have it. MIG is fun, but stick is more fun. MIG is definitely easier, and I think easier to make mistakes with. Once you get good with stick, there are few reasons I can see where I would choose MIG over stick: when you are indoors and don't want to deal with the smoke, thin stuff, and production type work where you want to lay down lots of bead fast (within the single pass limits of the machine). Most machines overstate their single pass capability. In my opinion, it is easier to make good welds on 3/16ths and thicker material with a stick welder. You can really burn it in there. I found that working with stick helped me with MIG...learned how to visualize the puddle, etc. I think a good used stick welder on the cheap is the best way to start. Minimal risk financially, and buzz boxes (cheap transformer welders) have lots of virtues. They are virtually indestructible. They are just a transformer. If the current owner can demo that it welds, it will likely never break. Farmers have been using these for decades to build or repair lots of stuff. You won't weld aluminum, but do you really need to? There is almost nothing you can't do with one of these and say an oxy acetylene torch. Will you outgrow it and want something bigger or fancier in a year? Probably. But for $100, who cares????Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:And no need to wait. Just make sure you have the correct personal protective gear and read everything out there on welding safety, just so you don't go in blind. Watch the Steve bleil videos on YouTube. And then jump in. No need to wait. Again, I am completely self taught. There are no classes in CT other than the full blown welding certificate courses at the local community college, and those cost thousands of dollars. So school is not an option for something that is a hobby for me.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:You should have no problem welding 1/4" with a "Buzz Box".My vintage Lincoln will go to 180amps MAX and it is corded for a 30 amp breaker.Most stick welding with 1/8" rod is done in the 110 to 130 amp range.Building what you describe you would probably go with 3/32" rod in the 75 to 110 amp range.As far as Duty Cycle, you need to learn to Weld, then Weld good before you ever think about mass producing something where you want more Duty Cycle.My 2 Cents!
Reply:I'm with Louie on starting with stick. I think it would be easier to teach yourself stick than to teach yourself MIG, at least until you can take a course.I took a course at the local CC and it was probably 90% stick, 8% TIG (because I wanted to learn to use my Syncrowave) and 2% MIG. I think you can learn more about the general principles (that apply for all types of welding seeing the puddle, controlling the puddle, getting proper penetration, etc) by learning stick well, than you would learn on MIG, even with an instructor. MIG takes arc length out of the equation, but it adds other variables that for me, at least, added more confusion.I like that stick is in some ways simpler (both the machine itself and the fundamentals of the techniques)...set your amperage, then get your stick angle and arc length and travel speed right...you can learn a LOT.Good luck in whatever you decide. It's a lot of fun!
Reply:Sorry it took me so long to get back on here and post - we were out and about today. Louie, I took your advice and agree that what is $100 when I was already planning on spending quite a bit more. As I said earlier, when I was first doing research, I was pretty set on going stick (albeit with an expensive stickmate lx). It seemed straightforward, maybe a little challenging, but I felt like I couldn't go wrong. Then I was reading some posts about some Lincoln 220/230v machines having a 40+ amp peak upon striking, and then triggering the breaker making it impossible to weld on a 30A breaker even at lower amp ranges. Thanks drujinin for throwing in your two cents--definitely getting more than my money's worth on this forum so far! Great stuff. I'm glad to hear your old Lincoln can max out on a 30 amp breaker, and I won't be doing production or anything like that for a long time. Anyway-I called up the guy for that powr-kraft, he was available today and said it worked great. He wouldn't budge on the price and it wasn't worth any haggling to me just to get a couple dollars off (I thought I'd see if he go down to $80). Once I got there, he had it in his shop - he was a retiree trying to clear out some space-had a couple of nice old tractors in the shop though. He said he was no welder, but that he had it for basic maintenance off and on. He explained how to use it and fired it up. He had some 1/4 inch plate about 6 inches long and ran a couple of 1-2 inch beads. He let me try it out-which I wanted too but was a little aprehensive as I was wearing shorts and a T-shirt-probably not the best (not to mention he had no welding gloves-trust me-I won't be welding this way when I'm doing it). Threw the helmet on and after tapping the rod a couple of times to the plate it sparked and I was welding away. So thanks Louie for sharing your experience-as it is very similar to my situation and definitely pointed me in a good direction-and for scoping this little[big] guy out. There are so many welders out there on CL/eBay/classifieds that I'd never know if they were good buys or not. I know with a lot of the old buzzboxes you can't go wrong if they are working, but I feel much better having an opinion from people with welding experience.Having never welded before, all I can say is WOW-it was ridiculously fun! Here are a couple snapshots of the welder for good measure. He threw in a basic helmet. I plan on getting a nicer auto-darkening helmet and a good set of gloves/welding jacket/good fire extinguisher etc. before I start with it. Still have to make an adapter/extension cord for the dryer plug. I'm planning on a 50' extension cable if possible. I haven't done any research on this so I don't know if it is feasible/safe with the 30A. I'd need at least a 15-20' cable to be able to weld in the garage, but a 30-50 footer would allow me to venture to the driveway area if I wanted to. I'm looking forward to getting some practice in with this and having something to use during the week between each class this summer. Thanks again for all of the help-I'd say I'm already hooked from all of 30 seconds of welding experience . I'm sure once I get better that it will be difficult to not get into mig/tig, but I gotta say that I feel even better spending 100 bucks instead of 1000 right now. Though I should mention, I know these things are heavy - but man, no one told me I was gonna need a squat rack BEFORE getting a welder just to lift the darn thing . The cart on it is pretty janky, so my first project after I get some practice may be with some angle iron, wheels or air-filled tires, and some kind of round/square tube for a handle to upgrade the cart.Thanks again everyone for your help, insight and feedback!Jeff
Reply:Originally Posted by kctgb I'm not a fan of multi process machines, in my experience they don't hold up as well as a single process welder
Reply:Originally Posted by CodingAndWeldinghaving never welded before, all I can say is WOW-it was ridiculously fun!Originally Posted by geezerbillIndeed it is!It will probably be outlawed for private use soon, because, along with being enjoyable, it is also highly addictive.Excellent choice on the first hitIt has been around a while, still works, and will probably outlive even the cockroaches.Beware, Stick welding produces high levels of Testosterone!
Reply:You picked a great way to start. I hope it runs off a 30 amp. My Lincoln AC/DC225 would not burn 1/8 rod on a 30 amp breaker. Would pop it every time. In terms of multiprocess machines lacking durability, I feel it depends on the type of machine and processes offered. I think the truth in this statement stems from the Chinese Tig/Plasma combo units. They're just junk.Steve 7A749 uses a TA multiprocess mig on a daily basis and reports zero problems with them. I have an XMT which is 10-20 years old and is a beast. Tig/Mig/Stick, and an inverter.
Reply:Originally Posted by geezerbillWow, I wasn't aware of that.Can you share some of the issues you have had with faulty multiprocess machines?
Reply:Originally Posted by geezerbillWow, I wasn't aware of that.Can you share some of the issues you have had with faulty multiprocess machines?
Reply:@CodingandWelding: Congrats! I recommend you start with some 3/32 6013 rod. It is called a drag rod because you can lightly drag the rod on the steel you are welding. Takes arc length out of the equation for a beginner. That rod will run at low amps (60-70 I think), so not much risk of blowing the breaker. It was also designed to run on AC. You cannot use rods designed exclusively for DC, such as 6010, 5p, etc. But it is no big deal. There are AC equivalents for almost everything.If it turns out that you pop that dryer breaker with larger rods then use the money you saved to have a dedicated 220 volt, 50+ amp circuit dropped into your primary work area. You will eventually need it anyway. Invest in some good PPE and a quality auto-darkening helmet. You will want some angle grinders too. I always have one with a grinding wheel and another with a wire brush. Get yourself a portable welding table from Harbor Freight for $59 with the coupon (search on this board for details)Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255You picked a great way to start. I hope it runs off a 30 amp. My Lincoln AC/DC225 would not burn 1/8 rod on a 30 amp breaker. Would pop it every time.
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961@CodingandWelding: Congrats! I recommend you start with some 3/32 6013 rod. It is called a drag rod because you can lightly drag the rod on the steel you are welding. Takes arc length out of the equation for a beginner. That rod will run at low amps (60-70 I think), so not much risk of blowing the breaker. It was also designed to run on AC. You cannot use rods designed exclusively for DC, such as 6010, 5p, etc. But it is no big deal. There are AC equivalents for almost everything.
Reply:Originally Posted by HenrymacDo I sense a sliver of sarcasm in that?? hehehehehe!! |
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发表于 2021-8-31 23:14:01