Tig welding 18 guage sheet

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Anybody have any advice on tig welding 18 gauge steel?  I can seem to do 16 gauge alright way down at 9 amps but 18 gauge is just blow through from the moment I pull the trigger.  I have a foot pedal but it is extremely awkward and uncomfortable and I don't really think it has much of a taper on amperage at all so I don't use it.  If you have any pictures that'd be cool
Reply:Hello Rbpercussion, lots of tacks close together, a really good fit-up(tight fit, minimal gaps as possible), a close fitting heavy copper backing bar, and definitely low amps and short runs of weld skipped around. That's the short of it. Good luck and best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Yeah the copper heat sink sounds like a worthwhile investment. Appreciate that.
Reply:Does your machine have an upslope that you might gently achieve full amps?
Reply:Like asdf said, hopefully there's a slope setting you can tweak. It will make the pedal work wonders. Or if you're fancy you can always try a radial thumb remote. It takes some getting used to holding a remote and filler in one hand together but I prefer it to the pedal. Lets you move around the table without dragging a pedal or holding it under your armpit. And move fast.
Reply:Can you post pictures of the 16G welds at 9 amps? That's really low amperage for 16G.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:You're doing something seriously wrong. 9 amps for 16ga? wtf 18ga should easily take 30 or more amps...Trigger? your tig torch has a trigger?Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:What machine are you using on what type of joint?  What are ALL of your settings? Gas type, flow, cup and tungsten size, etc...I don't get your pedal issue.  I personally can't stand auto upslope and downslope, prefer to do that with the pedal.  You should easily be able to tig .045 material on DC with a pedal.You'll heed to put more info in to get a response that helps.
Reply:I can tig 18g no problem with no peddle and scratch start. I'm assuming your using 1/16 tungsten? What's the trigger for?JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeI can tig 18g no problem with no peddle and scratch start. I'm assuming your using 1/16 tungsten? What's the trigger for?
Reply:e3 1/16 tungsten.  the cup just says 5 on it.  it's about 1/2" wide give or take a little.  The regulator is also in liters opposed to cfh (this was straight from the mainland after all) and thats around 18-20.  and like the pic above, almost all of the welds are outside corners.
Reply:From that picture the welds look cold and looks like the steel overheated. That happens from low amperage.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Well, looking at just the one picture, the weld does not look that bad. It is a bit fuzzy, or it might be my old eyes. Probably more weld deposit than necessary.Which makes me wonder...What size filler maternal are you using?If the filler wire is thicker than the joint material, it will make your job more difficult, taking more heat to melt the wire than to melt the steel.If you are using 1/16 or larger wire, get some smaller dia. Maybe try .045 or .035 mig wire.No offense, but you saying the pedal is clumsy to use is funny.They are all clumsy to use at first. I am not coordinated enough to use one even stillIt is like buying a fighter jet online, and then saying it handles like a garbage truck because every time you try to do a lomcovac, it flies right into the groundOh yeah...Last edited by geezerbill; 05-20-2014 at 04:28 AM.
Reply:Practice, practice, practice. You haven't mentioned the capabilities of your machine. Automatic pulse might help. For me, manual pulse works best. Floor it, to expand the puddle, and penetrate, back off the foot and move the torch, dip, repeat. Check out Jody's videos on the subject. At about a second intervals, I find it difficult to synchronize my timing with an automatic pulse. If that isn't working for you, try Jody's Rule Of 33; 33 pulses per second, 33% peak, 33% of peak at low amperage. You'll be surprised how effective it is at preventing blow through. Remember the filler is like an ice cube down the back to the puddle. Advance the torch, just as the first sign of fingers forming to keyhole, dab filler. It will freeze the puddle, preventing blow out. Fit up is critical, it takes me much longer to tack it up than to weld it. The joint will not lay in position long enough to tack. It's up to you to manipulate sheet metal to perfect position, then tack, often an inch at a time.
Reply:By the way, did you know you can buy square tube already made. They do a nice job, I can barely see the weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BBy the way, did you know you can buy square tube already made. They do a nice job, I can barely see the weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by RbpercussionThis was just practice.The pedal is BAD, your foot sits about 10" off the floor when using it http://www.everlastwelders.ca/media/.../303_1_2_1.jpgthe link is to a picture of the pedal.  I'm using 1/16" 70 something filler wire and my machine has no auto pulse.I suppose I'll try the same fit up with everything else set exactly the same as well except amps.  I'll put it to 30 as one guy said he can do 18g no problem at 30.  I'll post a picture when I get the chance
Reply:Solution for the pedal is to put a brick on the ground for the other foot.