Weld Pak 175HD

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First off i am a newbee to welding and engineer for a day job, i can spec but not do ; )  That's why i am here. So I have been trying to get my race frame welded for some time now but to no avail. I cant seem to get a good weld so I through some beads down (in the pic) to see if you guys could help shed some light. My welder is a Lincoln Weld Pak 175HD. It seems that no matter how I change the settings or speed up/ slow down, I get the same results which i think is not enough penetration? I am running a .030 mig wire with C02/Argon gas. Any help would be great. I am dying just looking at all the chassis steel and parts in my car.I was trying to wled my bumper here which is .125 wall. My chassis is .049 and .065 wall. any help would be great, Thanks!
Reply:New welds from last night with them cut in half. Attached Images
Reply:I think you should try some .024 solid wire.                                               MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Is this a 220v machine? Regardless of the above, there's a bunch of setup and maintenance itemsthat one needs to stay on top of for good welder performance.Those have been addressed in stickies and every other day questions.In the enlarged image below, circled in blue, is LOF or Lack Of Fusion.Are you aware of this?Lack of heat is the obvious problem with torch angle, torch lead angle, torch direction (pushingor dragging) and contact tip to workpiece---can all contribute to LOF.This is one big reason why preheat is used--but normally on thicker work.Nobody sections their coupons to look for LOF, unless they're trying extra hard-which is a compliment to you. It's a wholly more definitive, objective method of gaging the processas opposed to beating a coupon in a vice. Some sanding and a dusting with a fibertex padwill semi-polish the sectioned coupon, to make any LOF line more visible.http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1339732163 Attached ImagesBlackbird
Reply:Originally Posted by mla2ofusI think you should try some .024 solid wire.                                               Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonIs this a 220v machine? Regardless of the above, there's a bunch of setup and maintenance itemsthat one needs to stay on top of for good welder performance.Those have been addressed in stickies and every other day questions.In the enlarged image below, circled in blue, is LOF or Lack Of Fusion.Are you aware of this?Lack of heat is the obvious problem with torch angle, torch lead angle, torch direction (pushingor dragging) and contact tip to workpiece---can all contribute to LOF.This is one big reason why preheat is used--but normally on thicker work.Nobody sections their coupons to look for LOF, unless they're trying extra hard-which is a compliment to you. It's a wholly more definitive, objective method of gaging the processas opposed to beating a coupon in a vice. Some sanding and a dusting with a fibertex padwill semi-polish the sectioned coupon, to make any LOF line more visible.http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1339732163
Reply:Originally Posted by mjalalyYes it is a 220 machine. I generally cut all my welds (especially if i am building a acing chassis) and I was aware their was a LOF there and that is my bigger concern. I am not sure what I am doing wrong here. Moving too fast?My other thought is that my tip is below the shield. how do you generally set this up? Tip slightly protruding or slightly recessed? Or is it a preference thing? Thank you sir
Reply:Originally Posted by mjalalyNew welds from last night with them cut in half.
Reply:+1 to you for actually sectioning the weld and trying to take a look at what was going on 'under the surface'.Because what you have there is pretty much 'classic' cold-lap aka Lack-of-Fusion aka inadequate penetration.  Weld 'looks' good from the top, but didn't melt 'into' the parent material and the molten filler electrode just piled up on top of the parent material.The 175HD should have enough power (amps, heat, snot, ooomph, etc) to be able to weld 1/8 wall steel with 0.030 solid wire and C25 gas.Take some 1/8 inch thick pieces, line them up for a lap joint, turn the machine to 'max' or whatever the parameter chart inside the door suggests, and weld the lap joint.  Watch the puddle, let the arc melt into the parent material and then the melting filler fills it in, move forward slightly, repeat until weld bead/seam/joint is done.More practice, lots more practice, before you even think of welding your car 'stuff' together.Regarding the tip-to-nozzle arrangement on that machine, don't worry about it.  It's not really adjustable and the settting is what it is from the factory.  Snug the tip into the gun end, snug the nozzle into place, go weld.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by mjalalyNot arguing but how would that make a difference? Doesn't the process need larger wire to weld thicker steel?
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWBy moving the gun in and out when welding, a good welder can adjust how "hot" the bead is, for example when there's a larger or smaller than normal gap in a joint, to increase or decrease penetration.