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Air compressor rebuild.

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发表于 2021-8-31 23:09:04 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
A bit ago I barged into someone's thread here . I have purchased a new receiver.  It looks to be welded pretty good, actually beefier than the old receiver.  But, it's got a different bung configuration on top so I'll have to do some modifications to make it work, possibly even a new hose or idler pulley.BUT, the question I have is about this pump.  I don't have access to the owner's manual.  I don't know what pump this is, Franz says it's a Quincy.Just a head-gasket leak here?  Do the head bolts require brand-new replacements and a preset torque load?How do I find out how to rebuild this pump and get the parts for it?Thanks for another newbie question answered folks!
Reply:Oh here is a pic of the pump: Attached Images
Reply:Here's a pic of the new reciever.  As you can see the main outlet is not in the end but one of the two on top (whichever I pick I guess).  I'm going to be doing some welding I think.  At least it won't be on the pressure vessel. Attached Images
Reply:Another shot of the original.
Reply:Quincy, Gardner-denver, Inrgersol, etc, have all been very nice over the years about sending (usually FAX) documentation for the older units to me. It is in their interest to do so-they make a gob on parts and gaskets, and without the manual, you can't order the parts, and if you need to buy new because you can't get the information, you'd probably go to someone that was nicer.The information you will likely need: ANY cast in number, on any part. The more numbers, the better. Nameplate with model number and serial number is the golden nugget, but if you arn't sure what it is, then probably not available. Any stamped in number. Note the locations of these. For example, on G-D, the same cylinder casting, base casting, crank, and pistons are used with 40 or 50 years worth of compressors. The MODEL number changed several times, when the head design changed, valves changed, bearing configuration was changed, etc. Hence the need for numbers off EVERYTHING if possible.That said, if it came from Sears, they should still be able to get you the parts list and tell you who made it, as well as the manufacturers mdel number. I have got informatikon from them about things much older than that compressor.
Reply:The pump has just a couple of numbers on it, nothing resembling a model or make #.The head bolts and other fasteners on it have a capital R with 3 lines under it.There are no other markings at all.
Reply:Evan "a couple of numbers" may be enough for the manufacturer to ID the pump. The Sears service number people may be able to give you more info. If it is only the head gasket weeping, that probably isn't a major one to cut yourself, anyway. If the rings are going (a possibility if there is oil coming out the head gasket) then it becomes more important to get the right parts.Still, a decent compressor is worth repair . Spent $600 on valves for a G-D last fall, and $3000 for rebuild of a large Quincy. The G-d would be 2 or 3 grand to replace, and the G-D about 6 grand.
Reply:I have made head gaskets from header gasket material. Take the head off and plug it in, if oil pools up on the pistons you need rings.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:Hey rusted - I went to the Sears parts site on the web an put in the model # of the unit in the picture  (without the '.' in it and was able to pull up all the info on it!Whatever you need - they appear to have it!
Reply:Whatever you need - they appear to have it!
Reply:That pump looks just like a 1970's Sears that I have somewhere.
Reply:Rings arn't usually a problem to get... lots of suppliers around, even for oddball ones. Theres a dealer in california (I don't remember where or who--one of our other people deals with the place for rings for his Model A truck and a late 20's Mack)that has or can make darn near any ring you want. Generally not that big of a deal though. Compresors rings, especially for mass market units, are generally off the shelf items rather than custom. Rings for one of my G-D came from NAPA.
Reply:Originally posted by Sberry I have made head gaskets from header gasket material. Take the head off and plug it in, if oil pools up on the pistons you need rings.
Reply:You probably want to replace the bolts if you can, but if they arn't rusty or damaged, they can be reused. Torque down like on an engine (work center to end, bringing up in steps) to avoid warpng the head. Torque value? Based on the bolt size. Most auto repair books will have typical torque values for bolts. Best place to start if you don't have proper documentation.
Reply:Sorry to break into this thread but since we are discussing air compressors could someone out there tell me where I can find manual, repair parts, etc. for a Westinghouse Air Brake, Co., Type G Air compressor?  There is a casting number of T34330 and the name plate has the following (a model and serial # I assume):  2G229616.   Any suggestions or direction would be appreciated.Also I enjoy this web.  I don't contribute much but I sure enjoy reading.Grumpy
Reply:I saw compression and oil rings....compression (4 used) p/n PX-11oil (2 used)                 p/n PX-12
Reply:Originally posted by enlpck You probably want to replace the bolts if you can, but if they arn't rusty or damaged, they can be reused. Torque down like on an engine (work center to end, bringing up in steps) to avoid warpng the head. Torque value? Based on the bolt size. Most auto repair books will have typical torque values for bolts. Best place to start if you don't have proper documentation.
Reply:Originally posted by Brad-Man Hey rusted - I went to the Sears parts site on the web an put in the model # of the unit in the picture  (without the '.' in it and was able to pull up all the info on it!Whatever you need - they appear to have it!
Reply:Originally posted by Brad-Man I saw compression and oil rings....compression (4 used) p/n PX-11oil (2 used)                 p/n PX-12
Reply:I don't know squat about compressors, so here are the parts I figured would be right to replace.Cylinder gasketHead gasketValve gasket   (those three are all in the cylinder/head assembly)Crank bearingsRingsHead capscrews (which are available!)Now, how about flapper valves, other piston or rod parts, just order them based on inspected condition at teardown?
Reply:Grumpy: (see PM for deleted parts)I take it this is a rotating machine of the obsolete variety. Westinghouse has been VERY helpful  to my shop over the years in tracking down parts and documentation on legacy parts. I will check saturday when I get to my shop to see if I have any info on the type G, but I doubt I do (most of our loco's are GE, and GE never got on well with Westinghouse, and tended to use G-D or I-R, or whatever else when they could) The contact we have used at (Wabtec) is . He is in the locomotive products division. The parts number (worth a shot... A lot is available for even very old products) is  The publicly posted version of this will have the address and phone number removed.
Reply:enplckThanks for the response.  I'll, if I can get my kid to post them, have photos.  Yes it is a one cylinder rotating machine.  Made real well--heavy sucker.Grumpy
Reply:my 5 horse cambel hausfeld took a dump on me and i had a spare i bought off a buddy fer $20 its the exact same compressor you got there it seems to be pretty good but i still want to buy a new one at least 60 gallon
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