2" x 72" grinder project

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Guys found this on the net at http://www.parmarng.org/freeidaho/AlSkDjFhG/index.html,been wanting one but couldn't see spending the money, so thought i would give it a try. With no mill or lathe there is a lot of old school work, and grinding. Dont worry i wear iron pants. The last two pics are of the ajuster bracket; how do you drill a hole all the way through, or what kind of bits do you use. i had to follow his drawings, which ment drill from both sides. I would have perfered to start on one side and go all the way through. Ok fire away. I used a lincoln wire matic 250 with .35 wire, i have a Miller tig but am uncomfortable with it. Attached Images
Reply:When I followed your link I was a little confused... but then I found the grinder link. This is the direct url: http://www.parmarng.org/freeidaho/Al...ltGrinder.htmlIt looks like your making good progress. Are you buying the wheel or how do you plan on making them?
Reply:most likely will have to buy them. I tried to post the drawings but they didn't show up.
Reply:was having a feed problem with the mig, think i fixed it.
Reply:http://www.parmarng.org/freeidaho/Al...derPlansV1.pdfOk fiquered it out
Reply:cool build Z3,I didn't read through the plans, but would the main arm need to be adjustable since there's a tensioner pulley?  It looks like the arm telescopes out.This is a project I would love to build also.I'm guessing the point of keeping the motor near the floor is to lower the center of gravity?I like the position of the switch, foot activated, but I don't like the switch.  I would think a "momentary on" switch would be safer, but I don't really know; never used a belt grinder before.  Or at least a switch that's easier to hit with your foot.Looking forward to your progress Lincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....
Reply:if you grind on the platen very much,you'll want to try graphite or ceramic wear surface. the graphite wears out faster but is less expensive---ebay. either one makes the grinder run a lot easier with less heat. nice grinder design.miller thunderbolt 250vlincoln square wave tig 175 prolincoln idealarc mig sp250everlast tig 210EXTeverlast power plasma 50chicago electric (hf) 130 tig/90 arcchicago electric 90 amp flux wire3 sets oxy/acet
Reply:check amazon for good belt prices.miller thunderbolt 250vlincoln square wave tig 175 prolincoln idealarc mig sp250everlast tig 210EXTeverlast power plasma 50chicago electric (hf) 130 tig/90 arcchicago electric 90 amp flux wire3 sets oxy/acet
Reply:Originally Posted by dubl_tcool build Z3,I didn't read through the plans, but would the main arm need to be adjustable since there's a tensioner pulley?  It looks like the arm telescopes out.This is a project I would love to build also.I'm guessing the point of keeping the motor near the floor is to lower the center of gravity?I like the position of the switch, foot activated, but I don't like the switch.  I would think a "momentary on" switch would be safer, but I don't really know; never used a belt grinder before.  Or at least a switch that's easier to hit with your foot.Looking forward to your progress
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749The one I built has a push-pull style button switch. I used a standard Kalamazoo model sold without a motor & modified the tensioner arm for a longer belt & replaced the contact wheel. These machines aren't real difficult to build, just time consuming. This one pictured looks really nice & well thought out. I do like direct drive versus a belt tho if at all possible.One thing you'll find if you end up using one in the future, is that doing larger parts, or a series of small ones you'll often find yourself stepping away from the machine for just a moment to either flip something over, or set down a part to pick up another one.If it stays running, it works a lot better. At least in my experiences running many of them anyways. Now they do make ON/OFF maintained foot switches that work well on a machine like this. Really tho, it's whatever you are the most comfortable using Tom.Like the Guy in the link mentioned, it will be one of the most useful tools you ever own. You'll wonder how you got along without it.IMHO of course
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749I'll take some later on. My old computer crashed & I lost everything.This is what I modified.http://www.kalamazooind.com/products...fs-belt-sanderI used a solid resin composite caster wheel for the contact wheel. Added a longer arm to it to accommodate a 72" belt. It works really well for what little I have in it. I added a 2 HP motor & built a base for it. Nothing fancy, but it works. It's in need of some updating tho.I want something with a larger area for slack sanding. I have some NOS Rockwell contact wheels I bought on ePay some years ago. I'll have to do some work to set it up for that tho.I'll get some pix tonite.
Reply:For grinder parts and abrasive belts I use USA Knifemakers Supply. http://usaknifemaker.com/I have a KMG grinder and use glass on the platen.  I glued it on with JB Weld about five years ago and have had no issues with it.  Here is a shot of mineGood luck!Last edited by mjb; 11-04-2012 at 02:42 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by mjbFor grinder parts and abrasive belts I use USA Knifemakers Supply. http://usaknifemaker.com/I have a KMG grinder and use glass on the platen.  I glued it on with JB Weld about five years ago and have had no issues with it.  Here is a shot of mineGood luck!
Reply:I've probably said it before on previous posts like yours, but I really want to make a belt grinder.I have a giant sized regular bench grinder which hardly gets used, as its just easier and quicker to use an angle grinder. Now if I had something that worked better, and yielded more accurate results, that would be a massive win.I'm interested in the design you've found, as it uses relatively "thin" plate for a lot of it. Most of the other belt grinders I've seen tend to use solid 1 inch or so square for the adjustable arm, and are built WAY solid.My other sticking point on making my own is finding the contact wheels. I haven't seen too many around at reasonable prices. Not that I've been looking too hard.Look forward to seeing yours progress. cheers,matt.
Reply:Stiffman i will keep you posted on where i find the best price...i just couldn't stand to pay for of the factory made jobs.
Reply:Originally Posted by a1998z3Like your setup. Do you think you might be able to take a few other pics just so i can get some different veiws? Thanks I'll check them out.
Reply:MoreFlat platenFlat platen with tableArm assemblyOut of the waySmall wheel arm
Reply:LastThe small wheels are interchangeableVFDStandTool arm storage
Reply:great pics, gives some alternate designs. Thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by Mick120Stiffy....contact Radius Master Machinery in Mortdale for contact wheels. (02 95706566)These are the same guys that make Multi-Tool & Radius Master belt grinders, I don't know if they'd be willing to share but, they are real nice people to do business with.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Man, mjb. That,s one sweet machine.Per OP,s request, my very humble version. Extremely simple & cheap. I think I have less than $300 in it buying the actual base belt grinder & motor new retail.Made from a modified Kalamazoo machine. I have used it without issue for prolly 8+ years. One of the most useful tools I own. I do intend to modify it at some point in time soon. Want more slack sanding space & the platen could be adjusted better.Prolly not what you're looking for, the stuff posted above is far superior to mine. At the same time, it was cheap, simple to build & I did it over the span of maybe a week or two while working full time. I have pushed it real hard too, ground thousands & thousands of pieces of metal, plastic & wood with it.IMHO of course
Reply:I have some plans for a belt grinder.  It's the same design as MJB's.  Also have the same table design to be used too.  I have a 1.5hp 3 phase motor going on it, but I'm going to mount it under the table rather than on top of it.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Thought I would throw this in to show what is out there.[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKVWt2LzECE[/ame]
Reply:Great ideas for a sander.  I built a version for my woodworking business over 30 years ago and still use it almost daily.  It has turned wood wheels and runs a 6" x 147" belt, over a moving table where the work is placed.   Now that I'm getting into metalwork, I'm going to have to make something like this!Jack
Reply:Fascinating!  Kinda like the Transformers of the Grinder World!!Now, if it could be summed up, which grinder attachment would get used most frequently?  Hard to summarize, I know, but if a guy had to concentrate on one only what would it be??  Platen plate, contact wheel, slack belt?  Steve, you've used yours forever with the contact wheel and platen, do you really feel the need for change?  And thanks for the caster tip, that's brilliant.Mjb, why did you go with glass on the face of your platen?  Think  UHMW would be any good?Not trying to hi-jack, but I'm thinking a 1" belt and using serpentine pulleys off a vehicle, along with a HF 6" bench grinder motor (yea, my daughter says I'm "hella cheap").  Any thoughts?Sorry Z3, again, not trying to steal the show, I just get excited Lincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....Originally Posted by mjbThought I would throw this in to show what is out there.
Reply:Originally Posted by dubl_tFascinating!  Kinda like the Transformers of the Grinder World!!Now, if it could be summed up, which grinder attachment would get used most frequently?  Hard to summarize, I know, but if a guy had to concentrate on one only what would it be??  Platen plate, contact wheel, slack belt?  Steve, you've used yours forever with the contact wheel and platen, do you really feel the need for change?  And thanks for the caster tip, that's brilliant.Mjb, why did you go with glass on the face of your platen?  Think  UHMW would be any good?Not trying to hi-jack, but I'm thinking a 1" belt and using serpentine pulleys off a vehicle, along with a HF 6" bench grinder motor (yea, my daughter says I'm "hella cheap").  Any thoughts?Sorry Z3, again, not trying to steal the show, I just get excited
Reply:Originally Posted by Mick120They're all good alternatives but, no way would I have the patience to build my own so, this is what I have.....also being sold by VanSant Trick Tools.
Reply:7A749 Would you show some more pictures of your grinder? Does it stand up write or would you think its not needed.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749A teeny bit off the subject of this type of belt grinder, I built this one from a retired metallurgical type wet grinder I picked up at MSU Salvage for $100.Again, a Kalamazoo machine. I don't have any before pics, but it was a horizontal mounted unit. Really rough & rusty. The cover door for the belt housing was literally rusted off the hinges. Did some work to it & replaced the hinges. Added some small tap blocks to secure the door with wing style filter nuts I got at TSC for a couple bux.Cut the belt track assy off the base, shortened the factory table base it came with, made a work table for it, then basically cleaned & reworked all the moving parts. Made flat sheet metal doors & painted it with Krylon. Runs on a Harbor Freight 3HP motor inside the unit. 4 X 60" belt. Has good power & tracks pretty well for a steel drum drive wheel.I don't use it much, but for flat radiused stuff, it does a nice job.Gonna try some of those VSM belts out on it soon. Didn't mean to hijack, just throwing some more options out there if you happen to run across a retired salvage machine like this. I never would of had the money to buy it or time to build one from scratch.It took less than a week to get it running & I have maybe $300 in this one too.IMHO of course.
Reply:Update on my progress and some of the parts; had a feeding problem with my welder. fixed and started back.Pic of base, not adjustable as the plans. Pic of slider with holder. Made mine out of larger stock, scrap I had lying around. Also ordered my wheels so as they come in I will show the progress. Attached Images
Reply:Got a little done today;Starting to show shape. Attached Images
Reply:Made some more progress;ordered the belts today so more pics around friday. Also changed the way the tracking wheel was attached. Attached Images
Reply:Looks good Z3 Are you gonna build the attachment for a contact wheel?Lincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....
Reply:Originally Posted by dubl_tLooks good Z3 Are you gonna build the attachment for a contact wheel?
Reply:courtesy bump(can that be done in "projects"? or is it not "politicaly correct"?)Lincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....
Reply:While looking around YouTube for what is new in the grinder world, I ran across this collector:Seems to work pretty good!TxDoc's Photos Lincoln SP175 PlusLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln 250 LX Spool Gun Lincoln Precision Tig 225 Hypertherm 600 KMG 2x72 Belt GrinderBaldor 812RE Grinder
Reply:While looking around YouTube for what is new in the grinder world, I ran across this collector:Seems to work pretty good!TxDoc's Photos Lincoln SP175 PlusLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln 250 LX Spool Gun Lincoln Precision Tig 225 Hypertherm 600 KMG 2x72 Belt GrinderBaldor 812RE Grinder
Reply:Hadn't thought about that...thanks, may have to add a collector..
Reply:It's alive...made a couple small vids..not sure how to load them...more tomorrow.:Last edited by a1998z3; 12-01-2012 at 08:59 PM.
Reply:I mainly wanted to see how the motor was connected to the drive wheel. It looks like their is one bearing on that side.
Reply:Update;I made a few changes to the original plan.1. The adjusted for the tensioner2. The tool rest, used Burnt09's bender design to make this3. The way the motor mounted, wanted the weight to be as low as i couldI ordered the bearnings and wheels from Beaumount. The belts through amazon.I have another motor that I will exchange this one with, this is a 1/2 horse, the other is a 2 horse but the shaft was 7/8 and i will have order a three step pulley. That will get the speed up to were i want it with no lag. Also will change the foot pedal out with a switch. all of this was made out of scrap metal so about $300 to date. Hope this will help other take the plunge.Pardon the socks anf sandels, it's 74 here today......also don't like the way the wheels are working so i'll make a change to them also.Last edited by a1998z3; 12-02-2012 at 05:33 PM.
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Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749A teeny bit off the subject of this type of belt grinder, I built this one from a retired metallurgical type wet grinder I picked up at MSU Salvage for $100.Again, a Kalamazoo machine. I don't have any before pics, but it was a horizontal mounted unit. Really rough & rusty. The cover door for the belt housing was literally rusted off the hinges. Did some work to it & replaced the hinges. Added some small tap blocks to secure the door with wing style filter nuts I got at TSC for a couple bux.Cut the belt track assy off the base, shortened the factory table base it came with, made a work table for it, then basically cleaned & reworked all the moving parts. Made flat sheet metal doors & painted it with Krylon. Runs on a Harbor Freight 3HP motor inside the unit. 4 X 60" belt. Has good power & tracks pretty well for a steel drum drive wheel.I don't use it much, but for flat radiused stuff, it does a nice job.Gonna try some of those VSM belts out on it soon. Didn't mean to hijack, just throwing some more options out there if you happen to run across a retired salvage machine like this. I never would of had the money to buy it or time to build one from scratch.It took less than a week to get it running & I have maybe $300 in this one too.IMHO of course.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Lookin good. That one you just got was a good find too. I totally lucked across my upright. I think not too many ppl saw the potential when it was sitting there, covered in sediment & dirt.I would add an idler to that belt to reduce any vibration. The belt on my vertical is quite short, just enough to do the job.You did a top quality job on it for not going nuts with details. Simple, functional & does the job!
Reply:Very nice Z3, and smooth too!So you don't like the footpedal though?Lincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....
Reply:Originally Posted by dubl_tVery nice Z3, and smooth too!So you don't like the footpedal though?
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Have you thought about moving the motor closer to the top & securing the base to the floor?Hopefully you wont have any issues with belt slippage. Mine is a direct drive, but I have a base on it that's connected to the floor. I'm under the impression you want to be able to move it around?You'll be happier with that larger motor. The little ones just don't have enough torque to take heavier cuts. I had to replace the motor on my horizontal with a bigger one too.IMHO of course
Reply:are you going to add a guard for the belt? or do you think that based on the design it's far enough out of the way for it to be a non-issue?There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger