Snowblower bucket repair

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The bottom part of the bucket on my snowblower is curled in several spots:An overall view of the part that needs fixing.  as you can see, it's pretty beat in that area.:1)  The metal mic's out to 5/64"2)  I have a Miller Swinger 180 that ranges from 30 to 180 amps.  I have access to a wire feed welder.3)  Beginner level, though I can strike and maintain an arc with 6011/6013/7014I am thinking that heating and pounding out the curl is not the way to go here.  The metal does not appear all that strong.  I would just as soon do whatever surgery  it  needs up front and be done with it.  The metal removal isn't the problem, it's the patching I need  with.The most expedient thing to do would be just replace the bucket, I know, but that's cost prohibitive right now and I would really like to learn from this.
Reply:Did you notice the two bolts left attaching it to the auger housing? That's a replaceable edge put there to prevent wear on the auger housing. Just get a strip of 1/8" x 2 1/2" flat bar, mark the holes on the flat bar, drill 'em and slot them w/ a chainsaw file. Near as I can see it has 6 bolts attaching it to the auger housing. Then you're good as new!! Once you get the new edge installed and if your clearing snow off concrete or asphalt, raise the shoes up so the new edge is almost touching the surface. If you're clearing snow off gravel then adjust the shoes so the edge is 1/2"-3/4" above the surface.                                          HTH,                                    MikeLast edited by mla2ofus; 01-11-2013 at 07:23 PM.Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Mike I think for the cutting edge is fine, but the blower itself is messed up. Looks like they put a "step" in the sheet metal to support the cutting edge on the inside.I'd simply get a piece of 1/8" x 2" or so flat bar and use the old cutting edge to lay out the hole pattern, then cut off the damaged parts and weld in the new section. For some one who's not too experienced, I'd leave as much of the old stuff in place as possible and run lap welds. Myself, I'd simply cut it back at the old step probably and weld it in.As far as what to use, I'd use what ever you are most comfortable with. For me that would be solid wire mig #1, and probably 7018 or 7014 depending on what 3/32" rods I have on hand..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:mla- I thought that too.  But the way the paint is peeled 3/4 of the way to the back of the photo leads me to believe that the replaceable "wear" edge is intact and slightly worn BENEATH - ahead of - the bucket edge!  Also shows in the pic above it.  Like the design is backward!    Well, not quite ... but at least more vulnerable to wear than it should be, because of the low angle of attack.  After all, snow plows, etc have the replacement wear edge forward of the blade itself.Jar might need to do just what you said - except - weld that strap to the bucket body.  Would need to slice off the damaged part along the fold first tho ... slitter wheel on the 4.5" grinder would make short work of it.And that would be excellent practice for the MIG - tacking and alternating and clamping to try to hold that edge straight.    My kinda exercise ... keeping stuff straight!  Good for seat time!Jar - could you clarify that the edge is "ahead" of the bucket body?  Thx!Last edited by Fabn4Fun; 01-11-2013 at 08:07 PM.
Reply:DSW, I'm not one to argue for arguments sake, but all I see in the 3rd pic is a totally worn out cutting edge that is replaceable. The 2nd pic has me a little baffled as I see a curled edge w/ a gusset above it and an auger flight on the other side of the housing behind it, but I sure can't see it in the 1st or 3rd pic. It appears to me to be the area in the background of the 3rd pic.               My apologies if I'm wrong,                                                   MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:You may be right Mike. Hard to tell exactly. Pict 2 makes me think the edge is on the inside and what we are seeing is the bucket itself that's worn. I'm looking at a stepped flange in that pict where the pain is missing. I'd don't see the clear line I'd expect on the back side of a removable edge. I honestly can't remember if the cutting edge on mine is inside or outside the bucket. I have bigger toys now for moving snow and can stay mostly warm in the cab....  All I do is make sure it will fire up at the beginning of the season so a friend can use it if I can't get to her drive with the plow right away..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:It looks to me like the replaceable cutting edge is intact and the bucket is curled. Pic 2 is just another view of the bolt in pic 3.I am guessing this is an Ariens? I have the 1336, if you need me to look at it I can tomorrow.Last edited by Stick-man; 01-11-2013 at 08:20 PM."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:The curled, rusted part is part of the bucket itself.  The material to the left of that curled edge is the replaceable cutting edge.  The cutting edge is held in place by the bolts along the bottom of the blower housing and a bolt on each side from the guide shoes.  I hope I described this well enough to clear up any confusion.I was thinking along the same lines as DSW, cut out only what needs to be removed and weld in new pieces.   Donor metal of the same thickness shouldn't be too hard to find.  This is definitely one of those times when it's REAL EASY to cut off way more than needs to be removed.
Reply:I wouldn't bother with "pieces". I'd simply weld a whole nother piece in from end to end. The extra thickness won't really hurt you. Just weld the inside edge complete, so stuff doesn't get in between the old and new and grind a smooth transition between the two. Adjust the cutting edge so it catches the snow and covers the bucket bottom..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Yes, it's an Ariens, which is why just replacing the bucket isn't cost effective.  Stick-man's description is accurate.
Reply:I'm sorry, fellas, All I'm seeing is a rusty, worn out and mangled cutting edge. The orange part it's bolted to appears to be welded solidly to the auger housing. Maybe I'm full of sh!t, maybe I'm not.From what I can tell from the pics the orange part appears to only have a bevel worn on the leading edge.  On looking at the pics closer the mangled rusty part appears to be welded to the ends of the auger housing. Could it be possible the original "cutting edge" isn't even there anymore?? I'd like to see a pic of the orange part looking from the auger side to see if those bolt holes are also slotted as they are on the rusty part.                                    MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:heat the curled parts and pound flat again, then put bolts in all the hole locations.if it is really thin then deal with putting metal over that ( use it as a guide) if its still fairly solid move on and get that snow moving..Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:Cut the mangled stuff out of there, clamp a piece of 1/4 x 2 flat bar the whole length, and weld it in. Drill new holes, new cutting edge, and it will be as tough as my 35 year old AriensDisclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:The scraper bar removed from the bucketBucket overview without the scraper bar.Hopefully these pictures help to make sense of my original post.  I have a little bit of work ahead of me, but  since the machine was bought as a mechanical project, not a welding project,  any welding I get to do on/to it is simply a bonus.I appreciate the help.
Reply:OK, now I'm able to see how everything fits together. It was hard for me to see in the pics how the rusty area was actually part of the auger housing. By the looks of the cutting edge it may require new and maybe more gussets to keep the edge straight. I'm sure you'll show pics of the finished product.                                                  MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingCut the mangled stuff out of there, clamp a piece of 1/4 x 2 flat bar the whole length, and weld it in. Drill new holes, new cutting edge, and it will be as tough as my 35 year old Ariens
Reply:I am least the second or third owner of this machine, so I can only guess about how the damage took place.  However, since my driveway is quite rocky and I have damaged machines in a similar fashion, I suspect it hit more than a few solid obstructions at more than low speed.  I would not be surprised to find out that this was the reason it was set aside:  it's a beast at 10 hp and 32" cut.Mike, I will try to document things as I go along.  Please bear with any posts that ask for help in getting it done.Thanks again.
Reply:[QUOTE=jarheaddoc;211811  Please bear with any posts that ask for help in getting it done.Thanks again.[/QUOTE]   That's what we're all here for. To learn from other's accomplishments and our own and other's mistakes.                                  MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:as a novice as well, i had decent luck on that size sheet steel with 5/64" 6013. with a quick hand and a good eye 3/32" 6013 set at the lower end of the working range.1/16" 6011 has some draw because the metal is rusty, but as a beginner it will be real easy to burn through.a wire feed would be easiest though not sure if you were really asking .....
Reply:Cut out the worn out and curled part of the bucket.  Try to make the cut out section 'easy' to replace with just some plain flat bar.  I'd go more for just some plain old 1/8 inch thick flat bar.  Weld replacement steel bar in place.  Prime and paint.  Done on the bucket repair.Scraper bar.  Either buy replacement or make replacement out of, you guessed it, some plain 1/8 inch (or slightly thicker if you want) steel flat bar.  Bend ends or weld the ends, your choice.  Make the mounting holes.  Prime and paint, done.If you want to get 'fancy', then you can put some hardfacing on the scraper bar where it rubs against the ground.  See here for some of my snowblower repair 'fun'.  Thought I had put in pics of the scraper bar (aka "shave plate/bar")  replacement, but I guess I didn't post those pics (or take them).  I've also welded up some of the cracked/torn auger housing (multiple places) as well.  IIRC, there are still some ripped/cracked sections of the housing on mine.  Uggg.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=37323Last edited by MoonRise; 01-14-2013 at 12:50 PM.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:MoonRise...Now, I'm gonna show my ignorance of snowblowers (being from the south and midwest).  I'm sure I'm about to get "schooled" on the machines here, but heck, it beats a trailer-build thread!!Instead of skids on the front, can you mount an adjustable set of wheels on the blower housing, like a vertical steel bar with the wheels bolted on?
Reply:Trade that bad boy in for a boat and move on down here to FL!
Reply:83* here today. Great weather to weld in or just put your feet up and think about working.
Reply:Originally Posted by shortfuseMoonRise...Now, I'm gonna show my ignorance of snowblowers (being from the south and midwest).  I'm sure I'm about to get "schooled" on the machines here, but heck, it beats a trailer-build thread!!Instead of skids on the front, can you mount an adjustable set of wheels on the blower housing, like a vertical steel bar with the wheels bolted on?
Reply:I knew there had to be a good reason(s) for not using wheels! Thanks for clearing that up with one who has never used a snowblower .