Favorite or best anti-spatter protection product?

admin

My new machined top welding table will be delivered on Wednesday and I couldn't be more excited. It is going to have to last me many, many years so I need to take very good care of it. I searched the forum for anti-spatter information and the last big thread was way back in 2010. So now I'd like to find out what the current opinions were? I did an online product search and found a number of available products.What anti-spatter product do you prefer to use to keep welding spatter from adhering to your table?Thanks.
Reply:Pam cooking oil. Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
Reply:Since Pam is organic, does your table ever get to smelling rotten or rancid?
Reply:Originally Posted by LuMaxSince Pam is organic, does your table ever get to smelling rotten or rancid?
Reply:IMHO there is nothing worse than a oil covered and slippery welding table.Every time you touch it you get your hands filthy and that is unacceptable in my world.Flap disc works extremely well on the battle with spatter....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:You're better keeping a 120grit flapper disc on hand for any spatter that sticks, and then you will have a cleaner, smoother table top and get a better ground connection for low amperage welding.Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
Reply:LuMaxI take a different approach than most with table hygiene.It's a Shop Law - no fluids of any type on the fab tables.The tables are not fixtures, they are surfaces to carry fixtures.All of the welding is elevated some distance from the table in said fixture. This provides 'enough air' that splatter typically balls before contacting the table. C25, and proper gun angle/distance are also part of the mix.I run .024 and .030 Hard-Wire in one gun, and .035 and .045Dual-Shield in the other - without splatter spray.I have had a 12oz. can of Jokisch LB-100W for over 15 years, it's 1/3 full, and still has pressure.It is only used for initial coating of a new contactor-tip, or nozzle. Then: carefully run stringers until the gun is hot, immerse in Mig Dip, hang the gun so it drains and cools [until the Dip congeals]. I repeat the: dip, hang, weld cycle several times.You can season a tip/nozzle just like a cast-iron kettle, and they will last for years.  I never spray a table because it collects grit, and inevitably ends up polluting your tools, gloves, and clothes.Because the table is dry, all I use to clean and protect the surface is a feather duster, and a 14" Mill-Bastard.A couple of times a year I'll scrub them with 409 and a 3M pad, then tack-rag.Opus
Reply:None. Don't use it. Never have. Learn to set the machine for the task at hand.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Tig welding is my fav anti spatter.-AaronJet 17.5" Drill Press1942 South Bend 16x84 Lathe1980s Miller 320A / BP --- 2013 Power Mig 2562012 Jet 7x12 Horizontal BandsawVictor O/A Setup
Reply:Is your table hardened or a blanchard ground homemade table? Im am guessing you are asking this for the protection of the table, not for what you are welding? I like the Weld Kleen for this, see the label on the gallon jug, "protects parts, tooling, fixtures".my table is hardened so splatter does not stick.(very often) The WeldKleen was shipped with my table and I have continued to buy it. Thank you Amazon Prime. It really protects and conditions the top of the table really nice for cleaning it. it is perfectly dry when finished and maintains the black finish whereas water turns the black coating a milky color for alittle while. i found this splatter to be too liquidy for light gauge (14ga) mig welding. it will cause porosity cause it just runs down into the joint. It is probably fine for 200+amp heavy wall stuff. But I use the WeldKleen for cleaning the table 99% of the time. I use compressed air and brush tools to punch out all the holes.The super small dust splatter that gets transferred to my tubing is from not keeping my tip clean. That is my fault when it happens due to lack of maintenance. I dont get many if any true splatters due to good ground, clean material, fresh cut wire every arch ETC. None of my projects get the welds ground down or painted. All the tubing is cleaned and clear coated so joint prep is important. I use antisplatter as a safety barrier because I cannot use a flap disc or wire brush on my welds to clean off splatter, only Scotchbrite pads and dawn soap.So the antisplatter I use is the from the LWS in the aerosol cans. I found there is a difference from brand to brand with respect of porosity getting into the weld. Some of it is too much antisplatter inside the joint itself. I have always used it because it makes a difference in my final product. Attached ImagesLast edited by Jimmy_pop; 06-25-2014 at 05:20 PM.
Reply:Great posts, differing opinions, but great posts nonetheless.  Thanks guys.