First welds

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Popped off my first welds today. Just 15 or so short runs. (It's very hot outside) Started very scraggly, was standing all wrong and kept bumping the trigger on accident, not releasing the trigger at the end of welds causing nightmares with stick out. I was also scared the Auto hood wasn't going to work immediately melting my eyeballs so I had to get that stuff worked out in my headOverall I felt like my last 3 weld were vast improvements over where I started at looks wise anyway. This is 1/8" mild with 30 flux core on 3 power setting and 38 or so wire speed. Critique of you like. I am going to get some real instruction this weekend. I will probably mess with it some more later today. Today is mostly me trying to get to know the machine a little and getting over some worries I had (such as the hood).Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Reply:Not to make fun or anything, but I laughed my head off at the melting your eyeballs comment. Actually that is why I gave up on autodarks.Last edited by shovelon; 07-24-2014 at 07:04 PM.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:# 13 is by far the most respectable, pretty even bead with what appeared to be decent penetration, not too muck cast off! What sort of machine are you using? You mentioned you were standing wrong, always remember "comfort is king" when positioning. A More relaxed position will decrease on fatigue and increase muscle memory (also gives you less to think about while welding, there is enough already!)Good luck and feel free to ask questions, we all have the same passion and like to throw our 2cents out there!,P.s, how about some pics with the slag still on (I already know what your thinking but yes.. It dose help diagnose)!!Look forward to seeing your progress!.. so far ... Not bad at all especially for your first go with the welder.Last edited by Dantheharleyman99; 07-24-2014 at 08:01 PM.Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Originally Posted by Dantheharleyman99# 13 is by far the most respectable, pretty even bead with what appeared to be decent penetration, not too muck cast off! What sort of machine are you using? You mentioned you were standing wrong, always remember "comfort is king" when positioning. A More relaxed position will decrease on fatigue and increase muscle memory (also gives you less to think about while welding, there is enough already!)Good luck and feel free to ask questions, we all have the same passion and like to throw our 2cents out there!,P.s, how about some pics with the slag still on (I already know what your thinking but yes.. It dose help diagnose)!!Look forward to seeing your progress!.. so far ... Not bad at all especially for your first go with the welder.
Reply:Penetration can't really be determined by looks. However there are some signs that show a "cold" weld that would not have good penetration. If you look at # 2, and 3 or 4 ( on the right side)  and compare them to #13, you can see how the toes of the weld are much taller and meet the base material at a steeper angle. That's a classic sign of a cold weld with poor penetration. # 13 has a much smoother slope. Setting is a bit lighter than I might have used. on 1/8" with a small machine like that you pretty much need to max out the power under real world conditions to get decent results. I'd want to be on setting #4 and adjust wire accordingly, despite what the manual might say. With FC wire you get a slight edge over solid wire and gas, but not by a great deal ( usually not enough to make a significant difference).The real test of penetration would be to cut and etch the welds or with larger material bend them. With thin material if you are doing but welds and outside corners where you can get 100% penetration and see the bead on the back side ( no sign of the original cut lines where the two pieces met, not heat discoloration) you know you are good. On T joints, laps and such it gets a bit harder to really tell how good penetration is even when cutting and etching. On average noncritical projects complete penetration doesn't really matter. However on thicker materials and critical projects things like poor fusion with the base material becomes a factor, even if you bevel and do multiple passes. The thicker material simply sucks too much heat away from the weld..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Yup that's pretty much what I was gunna say, if you can't twist off a welded nut with a breaker bar your definitely going the right direction!I'll also add to the penetration side by saying, if it is a crucial weld on thicker steel that's at the top or slightly above your machines capability, pre heat the area you are welding (good & hot) doing this will allow you to get a little more penetration (And piece of mind)Happy welding!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!