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can anyone PLEASE tell me what the 'Land' term means in welding......Ive seen it before and Jody uses it in this link I posted at the bottom, in the second and third paragraphs. wtf is it please, its' baffling my brainhttp://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...ding-6010.html thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:Where the pipe bevel end and the face of the pipe is still flat. If you bevel the pipe to a point you have no land, if you gring it until a 1/16th is flat again you 1/16th land.
Reply:like walker said, but worded different:your "landing" is how much pipe you did not bevel. beveling all the way would be considered no landing or a "knife edge"bosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:gotcha, is there usually always a land in root pipe welding and is knife edging the bevel rare? I swear I saw a guy taking a test where there was to be 1/8" land but it looked knife edged, I may be wrong, that's why I was confused though. - Also, would you think tig welding in the root would be tougher knife edged than land? thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:I use a knife edge for Tig welding, and about 1/16-inch for SMAW. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Is there a reference book, chart, etc. specifying the proper land and gap for various pipe wall thicknesses? It would be for SMAW, if that matters. It would seem to vary quite a bit depending on what the purpose of the pipe was, such as low pressure vs. high pressure, gas or liquids, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by shortfuseIs there a reference book, chart, etc. specifying the proper land and gap for various pipe wall thicknesses? It would be for SMAW, if that matters. It would seem to vary quite a bit depending on what the purpose of the pipe was, such as low pressure vs. high pressure, gas or liquids, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by smilexelectricDepends on what electrode size you are using
Reply:I don't have an official reference source but the "rule of thumb" I was taught was that for stick on pipe use a gap 1/16th smaller than your electrode.Ranger 250 GXTSmith Gas Axe
Reply:Originally Posted by smilexelectricDepends on what electrode size you are using
Reply:I googled the crap out of this subject looking for it. Do you realize this the only thread in the world on this subject thermal arc 252i - millermatic 350P - miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs - Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:This is a good book on pipe welding. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:CEP, thanks for the reference. I'll try to locate a copy. Not trying to weld pipe at the moment, but would like to practice a bit on some to see if it's something I'd like to spend some time learning. BIG difference between flat/round steel and pipefitting!!
Reply:Originally Posted by MrLeadManI don't have an official reference source but the "rule of thumb" I was taught was that for stick on pipe use a gap 1/16th smaller than your electrode.
Reply:Technically the term for landing is the root face when you are surfing through code docs, pqrs, wps, etc. As usual, when it comes to welding the specs comes from which code you are welding to and/or the engineer's specifications.EXO Fabrication, Inc.www.exofabrication.com
Reply:For 3/32" rod I like the land to be the thickness of a dime. For 5/32" rod I like it to be a penny.The worst thing I can think of happening is if everything I ever welded instantly became UNWELDED
Reply:If I am welding say a 6" diameter sch 40 steel "carbon" pipe. I would have a 3/32 gap and a 3/32 land. With an 1/8th inch 5p++++ 6010 electrode. Machine set at about 75 ampsIf I was welding a 2 3/4" XXH pipe (very thick wall half inch plus) I would generally use a 3/32" land and maybe slightly wider gap like 1/8th". With about 80-85 amps. A thicker land will take more heat from the rod, but if you don't break down the land you will get incomplete fusion on the back side of the weld. If the land is knife edged and your amps are to high you will completely blow the bevel away. A 3/32 land/gap with 1/8 th rod will put in a great root. You want the key hole to be just barely larger than the rod while welding. Tight gaps make it very hard to know the root is in perfect. If you can't see the keyhole burn out the land and fill in behind the rod, then you can't 100% say the root has perfect fusion.Local 83
Reply:Originally Posted by woi2ldI googled the crap out of this subject looking for it. Do you realize this the only thread in the world on this subject
Reply:Originally Posted by RodBenderIf I am welding say a 6" diameter sch 40 steel "carbon" pipe. I would have a 3/32 gap and a 3/32 land. With an 1/8th inch 5p++++ 6010 electrode. Machine set at about 75 ampsIf I was welding a 2 3/4" XXH pipe (very thick wall half inch plus) I would generally use a 3/32" land and maybe slightly wider gap like 1/8th". With about 80-85 amps. A thicker land will take more heat from the rod, but if you don't break down the land you will get incomplete fusion on the back side of the weld. If the land is knife edged and your amps are to high you will completely blow the bevel away. A 3/32 land/gap with 1/8 th rod will put in a great root. You want the key hole to be just barely larger than the rod while welding. Tight gaps make it very hard to know the root is in perfect. If you can't see the keyhole burn out the land and fill in behind the rod, then you can't 100% say the root has perfect fusion. |
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