Cutting and beveling pipe bends

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So I have never really ventured much off from from cutting tube, but looking at getting into pipe fabrication for turbo manifolds. I've mostly been an NA builder, but more and more demand has been coming in for turbo manifolds. I have a few questions in regards of those. 1) What kind of pipe beveler are you guys using the to bevel the bends?2) When cutting the bends, do you normally weld a straight tube on there and then cut it on the band saw / chop saw?3) Good sources for those bends? I know ACE Stainless supply has been mentioned before, but just curious of any others.Thanks in advance!
Reply:Can't help with beveling, but as for bend, if you're not going to bend the stuff yourself, I would buy the prebent stuff and cut what you need.  Nothing aggravates me more then see straight pipe/tube cut into little pieces to get the bends..www.thefusionsolution.com
Reply:Originally Posted by speedfreak87Can't help with beveling, but as for bend, if you're not going to bend the stuff yourself, I would buy the prebent stuff and cut what you need.  Nothing aggravates me more then see straight pipe/tube cut into little pieces to get the bends..
Reply:Ahhhhh.. gotcha now. I use a vertical band.www.thefusionsolution.com
Reply:Did you make a jig to hold it in there properly so that you can do good repeat cuts?
Reply:I don't do enough, so no. but if I had to do production, I would for sure jig it.www.thefusionsolution.com
Reply:There are two really good ways to cut pipe or tubing for manifolds.First, cold saw.  Expensive but mill like finish and very accurate.Second, band saw.  Can be expensive too, It's possible to cut by hand, then sand to final line.  You can also make or buy a jig to hold the tubing.  Here's one type for an example:  http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htmSome people can cut by hand, with a carbide cutting wheel in a hand grinder.  Usually needs finish by a sander, and can waste material, but it's not expensive to do.Beveling is usually done on a belt sander, but i've seen people do it with a grinder in a pinch.  A 36 grit will make quick work of a schedule 40 bevel
Reply:I do have a cold saw, would still need something to hold on to though. Ice Engine really like to sell expensive things. 80-150$ for a plastic cut piece .. I know that can be done on a belt sander, but it seems like people are using a special tool of sort. For example the images shown are certainly not done on a belt sander. I've seen devices that go into the tube and then bevel, but they are only meant for straight tubing and not bent tubing. Originally Posted by Mr. MooseThere are two really good ways to cut pipe or tubing for manifolds.First, cold saw.  Expensive but mill like finish and very accurate.Second, band saw.  Can be expensive too, It's possible to cut by hand, then sand to final line.  You can also make or buy a jig to hold the tubing.  Here's one type for an example:  http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htmSome people can cut by hand, with a carbide cutting wheel in a hand grinder.  Usually needs finish by a sander, and can waste material, but it's not expensive to do.Beveling is usually done on a belt sander, but i've seen people do it with a grinder in a pinch.  A 36 grit will make quick work of a schedule 40 bevel
Reply:it depends how crazy you want to go. I was faced with the same challenges to build a set of headers and this is what I builtgives me thisas far as cutting, I built this holding jig for my cold saw which I also bought just for this projectthe holding jig is made from one or 2 sizes up elbow, the beveler I have a thread here:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=45518miller 330a bp TIGmiller dynasty 200DX TIGmillermatic 185 MIGthermal dynamics cutmaster 101 plasma cuttersnap-on YA5550 plasma cutterhypertherm powermax 30 plasma cutterbaileigh CS225 cold sawetc....
Reply:turbocad6Big Kudos for your scissor/clam/elbow cold-saw fixture, its been logged in my 'poach library'.A tech-tip . . . . . .  I first used a Bevo cold-saw in 1978 on a foreign project; and in 1996 + - ;  I bought the first one I saw in the US, branded as a Scotchman.It took decades for cold-saws to migrate from exclusive machine shop use, to general-use in [the better] welding shops.It is surprising what a cold-saw can do with a bit of fixtureimagination.Now, the tech-tip . . . . .  When making a 'uni-cut' gripped by only one jaw, you need to balance/maintain the parallel of the jaw travel 'grip' so the jaws and slides are not racked. Racked means: to be to compressed out of square  -  on a plane.In a parallel vise, this results with premature jaw and slide wear.  In short, put a spacer in the open jaw, the same grip width as the 'uni-cut ' side.This will extent the life and integrity of your saw.OpusLast edited by OPUS FERRO; 02-11-2013 at 10:33 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by turbocad6it depends how crazy you want to go. I was faced with the same challenges to build a set of headers and this is what I builtgives me thisas far as cutting, I built this holding jig for my cold saw which I also bought just for this projectthe holding jig is made from one or 2 sizes up elbow, the beveler I have a thread here:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=45518
Reply:opus, yes you're right, I did notice how racked the vice became when compressing only one side of it with this clamp jig. now whenever I'm cutting a very small amount off the end of a piece of bar stock or pipe/tube I use a matching piece in the opposite jaw to counter act that, but I never bothered finding something the correct thickness to oppose this particular clamp setup. if I do another header though I will find an opposing block for it. I think this is the best way to cut these elbows and keep the cuts square and consistent, especially if you already have a cold saw miller 330a bp TIGmiller dynasty 200DX TIGmillermatic 185 MIGthermal dynamics cutmaster 101 plasma cuttersnap-on YA5550 plasma cutterhypertherm powermax 30 plasma cutterbaileigh CS225 cold sawetc....