Metal cutting blade capable of cutting through AR steel recommendations please.....

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Here's a photo of a Diablo 7 1/2" blade used to cut a sum total of about 9 linear feet of 1/4" abrasion resistant steel. ----There are no teeth left on that blade which.... was brand new. Some mistakes just aren't fun enough to repeat again. I'll replace this blade but I'd like to know what brands of blades can be purchased that are manufactured to cut through AR steel which.... I'm convinced Superman brought with him to earth from the planet Krypton. --I do understand a torch will cut through AR steel effortlessly. I don't have an oxy-acetylene set up and really wouldn't be comfortable using one even if I did.MM 211Smith Tru Lite O/A set, Thanks Bob!Lincoln AC-225--But you must not change one thing, one pebble, one grain of sand, until you know what good and evil will follow on that act. The world is in balance, in Equilibrium- Ursula K. Le Guin
Reply:What types of saws do you have at your disposal? Is the 7 1/4" circular saw the only one you have, or do you have a jig saw, reciprocating saw or something else? That may open more possibilities for different blades you could use/try to use.
Reply:Technique and tools. Those Freud blades are made for mild steel, not for AR. To be honest, I've not seen a blade for a circular saw that can manage that. You are going to have to find a blade -- from some kind of saw, maybe not circular -- that can manage AR steel.  I'll check with my mates to see what they use. Probably EDM.Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:A grinder with a cut off wheel may be a better choice. Take the cut about 1/16" deep at a time, then go back and do another 1/16", repeat till you get the cut made. You will still go thru several doing it, but they don't cost a lot. Just don't try to make the full depth of cut in one pass, take it a fraction of a fraction of an inch at a time.
Reply:Or if you can fit the piece in an abrasive chop saw they also work well
Reply:I have all of the saws you mentioned and then some for woodworking which I can't use for cutting metal.... something about the RPMs. The saw that blade was on belonged to the man teaching me how to weld and it was on a circular saw although I don't recall the brand he had. It's totally trashed because of the "free" plate of AR steel I was given.--I don't have many tools for welding as of yet... I'm getting there slowly but surely. After reading threads here.... I decided the very next tools I'd be buying would be the highly regarded Evolution 7-1/4-Inch Steel Cutting Circular Saw, http://www.amazon.com/Evolution-Powe...e-gardeners-20 This I might have to buy new soon as my cash flow is a little better.... either that or I'll have to wait for Christmas. I've been looking all over the place for a good used metal cutting saw and evidently people are hanging onto them. --Some day I'd like to find a gently used Bosch JS470E, http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-JS470E-1...e-gardeners-20 Sooner or later one of those will show up on Craigslist at a price I can afford to pay. It's a waiting game. --So.... in answer to your question.... all I currently have available to me is somebody else's metal cutting saw so I probably need to stick to a 7 1/2" blade which could be used for the Evolution metal cutting saw that's next on my list of "need" tools. I am going to have to find a way to cut the AR steel since that's the type of plate I have access to dirt cheap so any help is appreciated.adding something.... I forgot... I have a decent Sawzall. I'll have to go dig it out later on. I can't remember what brand or model I have.Firemanmike> I have a decent chop saw... it was one of the 1st welding tools I bought.  The plates are too heavy and too awkward for me to move on my own. I just scored another 2 x 4 1/4" plate that's being delivered in the next few weeks. Ill be setting it aside for a little cart on wheels.Last edited by Equilibrium; 07-25-2014 at 09:58 AM.Reason: adding something againMM 211Smith Tru Lite O/A set, Thanks Bob!Lincoln AC-225--But you must not change one thing, one pebble, one grain of sand, until you know what good and evil will follow on that act. The world is in balance, in Equilibrium- Ursula K. Le Guin
Reply:I used a cutting wheel on AR steel. I should rephrase that, I used three for a four foot cut. I did score it first and made multiple passes. I hit a hard , hard , section and I could see the wheel actually just whittle down from a fresh 5'' to nothing like right now.   I did hear if you attempt to drill AR, heating with a torch first may help. It is some really tough $hit. Torch is the real answer.
Reply:Plasma or oxy-fuel cutting torch.Any blade (teeth or abrasive, rotating or linear or bandsaw) is going to have a hard time (no pun intended) cutting through hard steel plate.  And AR steel is rather on the hard and abrasion-resistant side.  That is its purpose, after all.  Plasma doesn't care how hard (or soft) the metal is.  It just cuts through it.  Hmmm, even a 'little' Hypertherm PM30 would cut through 1/4" steel plate at about 30 ipm.  That would mean the 9 ft cut would be done in less than 5 minutes.  Bigger machines (like the PM45) would cut even faster.That Diablo blade is made for cutting through mild steel.  I have used it or similar to cut through mild steel plate.  It's a waaaay better way to cut IMNSHO than using an abrasive blade.  Faster than the abrasive blade, much quieter, and much better cut quality (watch out for the sharp edges!!) on mild steel plate within the blade's workpiece thickness limits.But on AR plate?  Give me the plasma.Last edited by MoonRise; 07-25-2014 at 10:04 AM.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Just curious if what your making requires AR steel?  Might be easier to sell the ar steel and buy some mild steel instead.  Your going to spend more in tools and time trying to work with it then it would cost for some mild steel.  If what your making requires AR steel then disregard my comments. They have abrasive blades for circular saws, make multi passes taking a little more each pass.   Have any friends with a torch or plasma?Last edited by Going nowhere; 07-25-2014 at 10:09 AM.
Reply:I have a 7 1/4" evolution circular like Equilibrium is thinking of buying, I don't like it. I had a Jancy Slugger also and did not like it, traded it to a guy for a hammer drill.IMO the best circ saw for metal is the 8" Milwaukee. Its worth more than it cost IMO.I have cut 1"x4" AR 400 bar with my Milwaukee, but I won't do it again, too hard on the blade and I have oxy/ace torch and plasma. I won't say that the evolution don't work, it does, but I think the Milwaukee is just way better.The worst thing I can think of happening is if everything I ever welded instantly became UNWELDED
Reply:I’m pretty sure I have my answer from MoonRise unless Robert_Hall’s buddies know of a work around. It’s not doable with anything other than a torch or a plasma cutter unless I’m willing to shell out $$$ replacing blade after blade after blade. How exactly is this AR steel made>>>? What gives it its strength…. extra carbon? Just curious.--Robert Hall> I missed your post..... It must have come in when I was editing my post 2x. Yes, please do ask your buddies. --BD1> Believe it or not….. you just hit on another problem I’m going to have….. drilling holes through the top of my new welding table. I’m gonna be in deep doggie do do if I want holes…. right? --Moonrise> A Hypertherm PowerMax 30 is waaaaaaaay out of my budget even used…. eeeesh….they cost more than the 211 I just bought. I’d sure love to have one but…. not willing to sell off one of my kidneys to get it. --Going_nowhere> I’m not making anything that requires it. I used it for my welding cart and I’m using it for my welding table only because the price was right. I’m basically getting the AR steel for the cost of a few cartons of fresh eggs…. we found out his wife liked baking with fresh eggs so whenever I have extras…. I make sure he gets them.  Once I realized how high the cost of even mild steel plate was…. I  crocheted an afghan as a thank you to him for giving us the plates for free but that only took all of like 15 hours and $25 in yarn.  I think I’m done taking “free” AR plate. Lesson learned. --NBS_Welding> Interestingly enough.... my 2nd choice was the Milwaukee but not the 8".... the Milwaukee Tilt-Lok Circular Saw Kit — 7 1/4in., Model# 6390-21. Others I've been looking at are the Northern Industrial 7 1/4in. Metal Cutting Saw  Item# 399984, the Bosch Circular Saw — 7 1/4in. Blade, 15 Amp, 6200 RPM, Model# CS5, and the DEWALT Heavy-Duty Circular Saw with Brake and Case — 7 1/4in., 15 Amp, Model# DW364K. I keep pretty good notes on what interests me just in case one shows up on Craigslist. May I ask why you didn't you like the Evolution? Until I actually buy something.... my mind is never made up.MM 211Smith Tru Lite O/A set, Thanks Bob!Lincoln AC-225--But you must not change one thing, one pebble, one grain of sand, until you know what good and evil will follow on that act. The world is in balance, in Equilibrium- Ursula K. Le Guin
Reply:The dedicated metal saws is what I would pursue. They are designed with a chip collector for the filings. The Northern one looks just like my Harbor Freight one. I don't know if HF stills handles them. The Milwaukee 8'' is probably the king, but so is its price at $300.00  If you investigate the saws you mentioned  the metal cutting ones are around 3500 to 3800 RPM'S. The standard wood cutting saws are 5800 RPM'S. Even though the Diablo steel demon is rated at 5800 RPM'S I prefer the slower 3500 saws. Those chips are flying fast enough at the lower RPM'S. I'll get the Milwaukee when my cheap HF one dies. The HF one is still going , with each use I think it maybe the last .
Reply:You'll be much better off buying one of the saws designed for cutting metal, i.e. the Evolution, the 8" Milwaukee, or even the Jancy Slugger (just bought the 9" version of that)  The wood-cutting saws, typically 7 1/4", run too fast and don't have the chip-collection feature that the metal-cutting saws do.  The Milwaukee is a nice saw and can be had reasonably...not as cheap as a wood-cutting saw, but much better for your intended purpose.  Then again, for the AR steel...you might just want to throw it in your lil black truck and bring it over here to try out a plasma cutter!
Reply:I'm wondering why you feel the need for a metal cutting circular saw. I've got a ton of metal cutting tools, yet have found a limited use for one. If you need to cut a lot of sheet steel, then it's probably justified. If you don't, I can see a lot of other tools you probably would get more use out of. I've made do on the few occasions I've needed to make cuts with my Skill Wormdrive circular saw. These saws are heavy, but because of the worm gearing, they run at slower RPMs than standard direct drive saws and well as have the snot to go thru things and simply not bog down. This isn't going to help you with AR plate, but will on mild steel. Thoughts if you do need to cut larger sheets. #1: See if you know someone who has a metal cutting circular saw you can borrow, or who might be willing to make the cuts for you.#2 See if you know someone who has a plasma or Oxy fuel torch who can make the cuts. almost all commercial shops have one or the other, if not both.# 3 Find some one with a shear rated for what you need to cut and what it will cost to have it cut by them. My supplier will do cuts at a minimal charge if it's only one or two cuts on their shear. Many times it's cheaper/easier for me to buy the whole sheet from them and have them shear it to size for me before I take it home. If it's a simple cut, say like slicing an 4 x 8 sheet into 3 16" x 8' pieces, It's almost nothing for them to toss it on the shear and bang out 2 quick cuts.I'm betting if you look around at some local metal shops, you can find someone with either OA or plasma who would be willing to make a few cuts for you at minimal cost. You have an advantage being a woman. It's sort of a "novelty" to many, and when they find out you are interested in learning to weld and work with metal, you will probably find they will make a few simple cuts for minimal cost. You may also find you have found yourself another outlet for scraps to work with.Another possible option would be to look and see if there is a local school with a night class in welding. You might find the instructor would be happy to have his students make the cuts for you on OA or plasma. Down side is they might not be the greatest cuts, depending on how good the students are..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I'd find someone with a gas ax. I just did this last year on a bucket extension project for a friend. Like a hot knife through butter. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I agree with plasma or torch. I bought a "manufacturer refurbished" plasma cutter from HTP for $600. Hypertherm plasma cutters are leaps and bounds better than all the others, but that doesn't mean they're the only good ones. You can find plenty of good plasmas on craigslist for $600 and under. Just get a reputable brand name. No Lotos or Milwaukee (The real Milwaukee doesn't make plasma cutters), or anything Chinese. Shoot even the Harbor Freight plasma cutter is made in Italy and costs around $600 new!John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:http://www.bakersgas.com/SMIMB54A-510LP.htmlEverlast PowerARC 300
Reply:If you have a sawzall  you might try one of the diamond impregnated blades ,  they are not cheap  and i have no idea how they will do on AR steel , but they dont do a bad job on cast .
Reply:A diamond wheel on a angle grinderEverlast PowerARC 300
Reply:I feel so marginalized. J/K Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:LOL, be very carefull asking about gear questions on this forum. Someone will always tell you to buy the most expensive tool possible! I'd be broke by now if I listened.get a pack of abrasive wheels for a circular saw, they are about $3 each or if you get them in a pack around $1.50 eachhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/30-PCS-HOTEC...item4d03aebca9also ebay has evolution saws for around $50. Personally I have a harbor freight circular saw and it works fine for my needs. http://www.carbideprocessors.com/Saw...ter=5-3%2F8%22if you must use carbide this place has the best prices, plus you can get just about any size you need. $15 to $30 for a 7" saw blade made for ferrous cuttinggood luck.
Reply:Im in with others who suggest the abrasive wheels.  For cost and not having a torch that's your best bet.  Wear a mask while cutting.  Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:I deal with AR400 and 500 here and there, Loaders, scrapers, dozers, and some odd ag equipment. As far as Im concerned, there is no economically practical way to mechanically cut the stuff. Torch or plasma, that's it for me. And the stuff makes a mess of Ironworker blades and punches. Anything complex I let the waterjet cutter guy do it.
Reply:Makita have a blade that will cut stainless, maybe blade is better, I don't know.Jeff
Reply:Originally Posted by EquilibriumI’m pretty sure I have my answer from MoonRise unless Robert_Hall’s buddies know of a work around. It’s not doable with anything other than a torch or a plasma cutter unless I’m willing to shell out $$$ replacing blade after blade after blade. How exactly is this AR steel made>>>? What gives it its strength…. extra carbon? Just curious.--Robert Hall> I missed your post..... It must have come in when I was editing my post 2x. Yes, please do ask your buddies. --BD1> Believe it or not….. you just hit on another problem I’m going to have….. drilling holes through the top of my new welding table. I’m gonna be in deep doggie do do if I want holes…. right? --Moonrise> A Hypertherm PowerMax 30 is waaaaaaaay out of my budget even used…. eeeesh….they cost more than the 211 I just bought. I’d sure love to have one but…. not willing to sell off one of my kidneys to get it. --Going_nowhere> I’m not making anything that requires it. I used it for my welding cart and I’m using it for my welding table only because the price was right. I’m basically getting the AR steel for the cost of a few cartons of fresh eggs…. we found out his wife liked baking with fresh eggs so whenever I have extras…. I make sure he gets them.  Once I realized how high the cost of even mild steel plate was…. I  crocheted an afghan as a thank you to him for giving us the plates for free but that only took all of like 15 hours and $25 in yarn.  I think I’m done taking “free” AR plate. Lesson learned. --NBS_Welding> Interestingly enough.... my 2nd choice was the Milwaukee but not the 8".... the Milwaukee Tilt-Lok Circular Saw Kit — 7 1/4in., Model# 6390-21. Others I've been looking at are the Northern Industrial 7 1/4in. Metal Cutting Saw  Item# 399984, the Bosch Circular Saw — 7 1/4in. Blade, 15 Amp, 6200 RPM, Model# CS5, and the DEWALT Heavy-Duty Circular Saw with Brake and Case — 7 1/4in., 15 Amp, Model# DW364K. I keep pretty good notes on what interests me just in case one shows up on Craigslist. May I ask why you didn't you like the Evolution? Until I actually buy something.... my mind is never made up.Originally Posted by ostie01Makita have a blade that will cut stainless, maybe blade is better, I don't know.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWTrue, but it's not for use in standard abrasive chop saws. That blade if for use in dedicated dry cut carbide saws running a much lower RPM than normal abrasive chop saws. The 14" blade shown is designed to be run at 1300 RPM, not 3800 RPM like on abrasive saws. Run one in an abrasive saw and you will destroy the blade like they showed picts.
Reply:Mechanically severing AR500? Not happening.  Plasma, O/A, or water jet for industry apps.  The element Boron in small:small percentages is what contributes to AR's impact toughness.  Save $, time, and headaches and have the 500 plate cut by one of the above three commonly used methods."Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:BD1 and Just_George> I guess I need to get my mindset OUT of wood so back to the drawing board for me on a metal cutting saw. Oh and Just_George.... you meant throw it in my little black Corolla not little black truck, right?  My old Corolla has been doing a great jog double dutying (sp?) as a truck for me so.... I don't see any reason why I couldn't put both back seats down and get someone to help me load AR plate in it. ----I'll pass on showing the photo of the trunk.... it's filled to the brim these days too. Have your laugh for the day gentlemen. Bet you guys are glad I'm not your wife trashing a decent car the way I have!!! Speaking of trashing a car.... do either of you know how to get rust out of my upholstery? --DSW> I’ve been picking up materials for little artsy craftsy type projects I'll be "playing" with soon as I’m set up at home.  I’ll need practice and more practice then more practice before moving onto the projects I really want to do. Smaller projects should help me get accustomed to using  my own welding machine which…. I’ll be picking up sometime next week. I don’t intend to keep any of the garden art type projects I’ll start myself out on. I seem to be gravitating toward utilitarian projects that do require metal purchased by the sheet which is why I was looking into purchasing a metal cutting saw.  --I want a utility cart with a drawer, something like this from RehabMart only not in SS,  http://www.rehabmart.com/product/3-s...ers-25703.html--Outdoor predator proof rabbit housing is a goal of mine and has been from the get go. This is a Somatco design, http://www.somatco.com/images/multifloor-rack-4p02b.JPG.  The is a FlushKleen System, http://www.bassequipment.com/files/i...Images/fkr.jpg. I’m playing with ideas for rabbit housing utilizing features from the existing rabbit housing I have as well as from both of those designs. I’m pretty sure I’ll be using flattened expanded metal for some of the housing. My design isn’t set in stone…. it seems to be evolving the more I learn how to weld.--Produce stand…. I’m all over the board on them right now. What I ultimately end up with…. who knows. I guess it will depend on the metal I can get my hands on cheap.  I'm really excited about fabricating a little farm stand for extra produce. --I need a ramp into our house for our Mastiff. He's old and really having a hard time with the two stairs. Come to think of it... we could really use a ramp type deal for the back of our trailer.... more sheet metal. --We’re probably going to try selling our home next year. We’re getting older and would like a ranch home on more land. If all goes well…. I’d get dairy goats and a bigger greenhouse out of the deal and my husband will get a pole barn for an older car he has that he fiddles with.  I will have a need for a goat milking stand similar to this, http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...SC_0401-1.jpg; more greenhouse benches and he would like shelving for car parts and perhaps even a utility cart along the lines of the smaller cart I want only larger. Even more sheet metal.  --Incredibly.... women weldors seem to be a dime a dozen in Illinois. We have minority owned shops (women owned) that hire only minority weldors (women). I ran into one such owner at a welding supply. I was offered a job and she held firm to her offer even after I told her how old I was and how many hours I had in. She has some sort of a formal apprentice program set up that's most likely funded by the state. She probably gets extra grant $$$ for hiring 50+ females. My bet is her shop is A8 and she's got a boatload of government contracts. Interesting but... I couldn't deal with that much estrogen in a day and that's definitely not the direction I want to go with my welding anyway. She'd probably cut the AR plate for me for no charge but.... I'd feel uncomfortable asking. I'm good to go without a plasma cutter or a torch.... I can get the next AR plate cut by the man teaching me.... I don't think there's a tool out there that he doesn't own 2 or 3 of and that includes torches and welding machines.--I have to tell you the more I weld.... the more I like it.MM 211Smith Tru Lite O/A set, Thanks Bob!Lincoln AC-225--But you must not change one thing, one pebble, one grain of sand, until you know what good and evil will follow on that act. The world is in balance, in Equilibrium- Ursula K. Le Guin
Reply:CEP> thanks for posting a photo of your gas ax. I'd never even heard of such a tool before. Way cool.--Econdron> "I agree with plasma or torch." Me too. I don't know that I'll ever buy a plasma cutter.... even used. I'm out of space and $$$ for toys right now.  --DXN1EL> Propane? I'll check that out. I'll ask about a diamond wheel for my angle grinder. I did call the welding supply I go to and he suggested trying abrasive wheels at only $3.50 each. He said figure 1 abrasive wheel per linear foot so thank you for suggesting another option. --FarmDad> I just looked them up. They're well under $20. I'd be willing to try a diamond blade on my Sawzall. Thanks for mentioning it.MM 211Smith Tru Lite O/A set, Thanks Bob!Lincoln AC-225--But you must not change one thing, one pebble, one grain of sand, until you know what good and evil will follow on that act. The world is in balance, in Equilibrium- Ursula K. Le Guin
Reply:Robert_Hall> "I feel so marginalized." Thanks for my morning giggle. --AluminumWelder> You aren't kidding!!!  Sometimes my head is in a spin with so many suggestions. Abrasive wheels were suggested at the welding supply yesterday. I'm definitely going to have to try a few now that you and Robert_Hall are both recommending them. --12V71> "As far as Im concerned, there is no economically practical way to mechanically cut the stuff." Unfortunately.... I'm sure you're right. --ostie01> I'll ask about that Makita blade next week. Thank you for mentioning it. --NBS_Welding> Big huge thank you for your reply. I'm cutting and pasting your whole response into the list I've got where I keep my notes on tools. I think I'm going to have to do what I did when I was looking to buy a welding helmet.... go out and find all the models that interest me and pick them up and check out all the features. I was sorta hoping I'd just be able to buy one sight unseen but it's not sounding like that's in my best interests.adding something...--ManoKai> headaches and unnecessary expenses.... exactly what I don't want. I think the free 2' x 4' AR plate coming to me is going to be my last. I really don't have anything that can cut it and won't anytime in the foreseeable future.Last edited by Equilibrium; 07-26-2014 at 09:58 AM.Reason: adding somethingMM 211Smith Tru Lite O/A set, Thanks Bob!Lincoln AC-225--But you must not change one thing, one pebble, one grain of sand, until you know what good and evil will follow on that act. The world is in balance, in Equilibrium- Ursula K. Le Guin
Reply:Originally Posted by EquilibriumCEP> thanks for posting a photo of your gas ax. I'd never even heard of such a tool before. Way cool.
Reply:I just got some 1/8" thick aluminum expanded sheet metal from american metal supply. it's very light weight and it won't rust outisde like steel willthat whole design looks like it is bolted together.IMHO You'd be better off making the whole thing out of aluminum hollow tube, wont' rust and will be easier to move, You can just use tube nuts to put the whole thing together as well, I've made structures like this before and they can easily withstand a 200 lb person climbing on them so rabbits should be easy.  1x1 tube with .062 wall is about 75 cents a foot. a structure like that might be 100 feet or $75 in tube metal, plus $80 for exapnded grates, plus nuts and bolts. http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-tube-...r-nuts/=t08q7tare nuts used in tubest slotted aluminum tube would also easily work, but it's more expnsive about $2.50 per ft for 1x1, but also much stronger. good luck.Last edited by AluminumWelder; 07-26-2014 at 12:41 PM.
Reply:I've cut lots of AR400 and AR500 steel.  If using a chop saw or angle grinder, you'll just go through lots of blades.  The process is NOT cheap.  A plasma cutter is THE tool to use, period.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Originally Posted by NBS WeldingThere are a few things I don't like about my Evolution sawThe most aggravating is the safety button that has to be pressed in beside the trigger. I often make a small mark on a piece of steel I am gonna cut and then use the mark on the end of the saw's base to line up the blade with that mark, then I hold a big speed square against the side of the saw base to keep me square. Sometimes the saw is in my right hand and the square in the left. Sometimes the saw is in my left hand and the square is in the right. When the saw is in my left hand I have a really hard time pressing the safety button for some reason. Using the speed square saves me from taking the time to make a square mark all the way across the tube, bar, or angle iron that I am cutting. It also lets me make 45 degree miter cuts perfect. It works great to make the cut you want on the steel especially when it is a tube or something that will be completely out of your view and covered up by the base before the cut is completely finished. The Milwaukee has just a trigger and no safety switch to mess with.
Reply:While I agree that plasma,OA, or band will be the best way to cut this, I'm trying to come up with a solution that will fit your budget.From your pictures, it looks like the blade wasn't running true on your saw.  Half the blade appears to have been doing the bulk of the work.  This is usually an indication of dirt on the collar or bent arbor.  If you have access to an indicator, you can measure the runout on the arbor to test your saw.If you're going to try another circular blade, look for one with a thicker and heavier plate, a negative hook and chamfers (corner breaks) on all the teeth.BradFulcrum Saw & Tool
Reply:Originally Posted by EquilibriumBD1 and Just_George> I guess I need to get my mindset OUT of wood so back to the drawing board for me on a metal cutting saw. Oh and Just_George.... you meant throw it in my little black Corolla not little black truck, right?  My old Corolla has been doing a great jog double dutying (sp?) as a truck for me so.... I don't see any reason why I couldn't put both back seats down and get someone to help me load AR plate in it.
Reply:Originally Posted by EquilibriumDXN1EL> Propane? I'll check that out. I'll ask about a diamond wheel for my angle grinder. I did call the welding supply I go to and he suggested trying abrasive wheels at only $3.50 each. He said figure 1 abrasive wheel per linear foot so thank you for suggesting another option.
Reply:CEP> what brand is this lovely tractor torch you photographed. I tried to do an image search for it and came up empty handed then looked on Craigslist and came up empty handed again. Is this “set it and forget” easy bake oven style torch called something else besides a tractor torch? I don’t know that I want one even I could buy one for only $50 but I’d  sure like to learn more about that toy you have. --AluminumWelder> For the frame…. I was thinking angle iron on plates so it didn’t sink into the ground. I won’t need to move the housing once it’s in place. I’ve been looking at perforated sheet metal for the sides for air flow. Some sort of flattened expanded metal for floors that could be slid in and out so they could be easily removed and cleaned with a little acetylene torch. I use a Weed Dragon, http://www.amazon.com/Red-Dragon-VT-...e-gardeners-20. I haven’t really thought about urine guards yet other than that they’ll need to be replaceable. I will need nest boxes…. preferably insulated and able to be attached to a side of a compartment then removed. Poop trays… I’m up in the air about those.  Would aluminum be a good choice for anything other than a frame and roofing considering rabbit urine is so incredibly corrosive?  Stainless steel would be ideal but… it’s out of my price bracket and I don’t have the personal protection I’d need to weld it. --SuperArc> I think I’m just going to throw in the towel on “free” AR steel in the future. I can’t afford to accept it any longer. --Fulcrum> “While I agree that plasma,OA, or band will be the best way to cut this, I'm trying to come up with a solution that will fit your budget.” It would be nice if a solution that I could afford was out there so thanks for trying to come up with one.  My little voice tells me there isn’t.  I got what I paid for…. the AR steel was “free”.  I think I’ll be better off buying mild plate from a surplus yard in the future. It’ll  end up costing me considerably less in long run. --I don’t have enough experience to be able to tell you whether the saw was running true on the blade or not. It’s a very good question. I will definitely ask whether it was or not. --Just_George> those photos were from the last time I went “shopping”. The time before when I went “shopping” at a neighbor’s property was worse. I had the Corolla-truck so loaded with freebie treasures that pipe, tube, and lumber was sticking out both back windows and the handle from an old snow blower I’d taken just for the wheels was sticking out the front passenger’s window. I stopped my neighbor from packing in more freebies soon as I realized I could barely see the tops of my tires. The wheel wells were down so low from what I’d already loaded that I literally had to bend over to see the tops of the tires. I attached little red flags to everything sticking out and drove home verrrrrrrrry slowly. Good thing I was only a half a mile away from home. Even better I got the Corolla-truck unloaded before anyone saw what I’d done. --DXN1EL> that looks like an oxy-acetylene set up with the same torches only instead of acetylene…. they’re using propane. I don't know that I'm ready for a “real” torch just yet so many thanks for adding the video. Now.... the Diamond-X cutter looks interesting. The advertisement mentions mild steel only so I suspect there was a very good reason why the spokesman stated it would slice through just about any metal.  It’s expensive, http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/to...in-disc-type-1. The price would be warranted if it really can outlast just 15 abrasive blades though. If you do buy it, please let me know how it holds up.MM 211Smith Tru Lite O/A set, Thanks Bob!Lincoln AC-225--But you must not change one thing, one pebble, one grain of sand, until you know what good and evil will follow on that act. The world is in balance, in Equilibrium- Ursula K. Le Guin
Reply:Here's a link to a new track torch. Quite pricy new, but I've seen them come up for sale used for reasonable prices occasionally. I don't see any right now on any of the used equipment sites I have saved. I have seen a few guys make their own home version.http://www.brweldingsupplies.com/vic...ine-0200-0221/You don't HAVE to have a track torch however. Wayne here did a really nice video of using a guide to make nice straight cuts with a standard cutting torch.  Here's the link to his youtube page with the videos. I'm too lazy to watch a bunch of them right now and find which one he did with the guide. All are very useful if you are unfamiliar with oxy fuel however and worth watching as well as reading his OA thread here he was doing when he made the videos.https://www.youtube.com/user/5tzl598p/videosPlasma is even easier to cut nice straight lines with if the machine uses drag tips like many of the better ones do. You just keep the tip in contact with both the guide and the material and move along consistently. I could have you making really nice straight cuts with minimal cleanup using one in less than 5 minutes.  Even better is the fact you can easily cut patterns using one of these. If you can cut the pattern out of say plywood or masonite, you can cut it out of steel using the pattern as the guide for the plasma. Templates don't hold up forever doing this, but for one offs, or a small quantity, it works well. If you need more, then just use the wood to make your steel template...  Price is the big issue with one of these. Avoid the cheap import ones and save for a good used unit like a Hyperthem or Thermal Dynamics. It's well worth the money..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by EquilibriumCEP> what brand is this lovely tractor torch you photographed. I tried to do an image search for it and came up empty handed then looked on Craigslist and came up empty handed again. Is this “set it and forget” easy bake oven style torch called something else besides a tractor torch? I don’t know that I want one even I could buy one for only $50 but I’d  sure like to learn more about that toy you have.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWPlasma is even easier to cut nice straight lines with if the machine uses drag tips like many of the better ones do. You just keep the tip in contact with both the guide and the material and move along consistently. I could have you making really nice straight cuts with minimal cleanup using one in less than 5 minutes.  Even better is the fact you can easily cut patterns using one of these. If you can cut the pattern out of say plywood or masonite, you can cut it out of steel using the pattern as the guide for the plasma. Templates don't hold up forever doing this, but for one offs, or a small quantity, it works well. If you need more, then just use the wood to make your steel template...  Price is the big issue with one of these. Avoid the cheap import ones and save for a good used unit like a Hyperthem or Thermal Dynamics. It's well worth the money.
Reply:"Would aluminum be a good choice for anything other than a frame and roofing considering rabbit urine is so incredibly corrosive?"you could always put some aluminum under your current rabbit piss and see what happensyou can always paint itI would think It would last longer than steel. it's lighter and probably not much more expensive if you have a good supplier near by like eastern metal or amiercanmetal.usgood luck
Reply:DSW> My 10 year old computer is about ready to bite the dust so I'm pretty sure there will be no torches of any kind or plasma cutters in my future. Neat videos though. I logged on and got hung up watching about 10 of them yesterday. He makes it look so easy.... actually.... all of you make every process look so easy. --CEP> Let me guess..... "Figuring the picking points of jelly donuts" is nowhere near Gurnee Mills or Six Flags Great America in Northeastern IL where I live, right? If it was.... I'd drive this AR plate over to you and pay you to cut it. Now that I've seen what these track torches cost new.... I think if I ever ran across one that was only $50 I'd buy it if but for no other reason other than to pass it on to the guy teaching me how to weld. That is one tool I honestly don't think he owns. If he does.... I've never seen it. --Just_George> You need to bring your plasma cutter with you next time you come to IL.... give me a demo. I'll provide a 2 x 4 piece of AR plate. --AluminumWelder> I'll pick up a piece of scrap aluminum and try it. Excellent suggestion. I've got time on my hands to see exactly what alkaline urine will do to aluminum. If the urine doesn't do a number on it.... I'd prefer to incorporate it into my design. It doesn't rust or flake like steel does so there wouldn't be any hidey holes for pests or pathogens with the added bonus that aluminum is a heck of a lot cheaper than SS. Some time this winter I'll start drawing out the ideas swirling around in my head. I'll be posting them along with the USDA's regs in the hopes others will be in a position to improve and expand on my ideas.MM 211Smith Tru Lite O/A set, Thanks Bob!Lincoln AC-225--But you must not change one thing, one pebble, one grain of sand, until you know what good and evil will follow on that act. The world is in balance, in Equilibrium- Ursula K. Le Guin
Reply:Have you given consideration to continuing to accept the free AR plate and find someone in your area that you can trade it to for mild steel pieces? Being that AR plate is more costly than plain carbon steel, there may be some one that needs some that may go and buy some new steel just to trade it with you for the AR. Then you would be getting something you can cut economically for the same price you are getting the AR. Just a thought.
Reply:re: rust stainsStep one is to not make rust stains in the first place.    Put some towels/rags on top of the seats/console/carpet before you put 'dirty' things on them.re:  'gas axe'  aka 'hot wrench' aka  oxy-fuel cutting torch.  For cutting steel, oxy-propane works fine.  For welding steel, you are generally better off with oxy-acetylene.  The track system (separate tool/machine from the cutting torch, btw) holds and guides the cutting torch for the cut (consistent travel speed and consistent hold-off and position/orientation can give nice consistent results because you then don't have a wobbly human moving the cutting torch all over the place during the attempted cut.    )Note that not all steels can be cut with an oxy-fuel cutting torch.  Stainless steel can not (without some 'tricks' such as a torch head that injects iron powder into the cutting jet to have some 'fuel' to burn during the cut, etc ,etc) and some other steels can not (high chromium alloys, like some hard-facing, and some manganese steels).Plasma don't care about the alloy.    As long as the material is electrically conductive (all metals basically    ), the hot plasma (upwards of ~10,000F) melts the metal and the air jet oxidizes or just blows the molten metal out of the way.  Result = cut in the metal.http://hypertherm.com/en-us/Training...tro_to_plasma/As to the size of a plasma cutter (you mentioned "size" as a concern), the Hypertherm PM30 and PM45 (no, I don't work for Hypertherm    )  are smaller than your black toolbox shown in your pictures of your loaded-up car-truck.  Probably lighter too.  Also, 'learning' to weld on AR plate is not necessarily the best approach.  Yes, AR steel is (usually) weldable, but sometimes needs preheat and post-weld slow cooling and sometimes a 'special' weld electrode/filler.AR steels are nice where you need the extra hardness and abrasion-resistance.  For 'regular' steel uses, use 'regular' plain mild steel.  Easier to cut and weld.  Maybe trade the AR steel to someone else for plain mild steel pieces?re: rabbit hutches and aluminum   Aluminum does not do well in an alkaline environment.  It dissolves.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Bisteneau> I 'spose I could..... he's got stacks of it. Doesn't feel right to me though because he could do that himself and make $$$. I didn't realize how expensive this type of plate was compared to mild steel. I'll keep this last piece that's getting delivered to me and use what I can for a utility cart and just call it a day. I can get it cut for free.... I just wanted to be able to cut it myself is all.--MoonRise> "Step one is to not make rust stains in the first place." Yes well... I can explain.  Pal's Steel was over an hour away from me and.... there was no way no how I was going back home without my reduced price treasures even after I saw how filthy some of it was. It's a female "thang".   My Corolla-truck looks good as new right now except for the chunks out of the dashboard from when I had to stop too fast and some pipe slid up.... the kids said they didn't want their mother driving around looking like a slum lord so they detailed the entire inside yesterday. They even got the rust stains out of the upholstery on the roof of the vehicle too. I have no clue what they ended up using to remove the rust stains but.... they did it so I'm a happy camper. And.... just in the nick of time too because they'll start leaving for college in the next few weeks. --Oxy-anything is out for a while. I just bought a 211 and need to get used to working on my own welder for a year or so before I move onto something else and I have to admit.... small torches like a Weed Dragon are ok with me.... not so sure about larger torches... I already caught myself on fire once and wasn't too happy about it. If I had the $$$.... and I don't after getting nickeled and dimed to death buying little stuff one needs to MIG weld.... I'd probably get help finding a good used plasma cutter. Those don't look as intimidating to me as the standard oxy-acetylene set ups used to cut metal. Oh oh oh.... that black toolbox that you said was about the same weight as a decent plasma cutter.... I picked it up for $3 and the little black tool box was only $2. Oopsie... didn't realize the tray was missing to the larger toolbox or that the bottom was rusted out of the small toolbox until I picked it up to bring it in the garage and a rusty tool fell out the bottom. Sometimes you just have to laugh. --There was a chunk missing out of the corner of a plate of AR. We spliced in a piece to make it "whole" again. It seemed fine to weld on but then I have very little with which to compare. I used pieces of one 3' x 5' plate for a welding cart. There's some left that I'll use to drop-in angle iron framing for a utility cart along with a piece from another 2' x 4' plate coming my way. The other 3' x 5' plate will be used for a welding table and it's going to be bolted to the frame not welded to the frame so it can be removed and replaced with 1/2" mild plate some time in the future. I'm really giving up on AR.--I'll give away any pieces of AR plate that are left over. Of the hand full of people from here that I've met in person.... all but 1 has so much "stash" they could start their own scrap yards and don't want any more. I really don't have a place to store left overs like most of you guys do so drujinin will probably get "gifted" in the middle of the night.  He only lives about 50 minutes away from me and I know they've got at least one front end loader that will need patching sooner or later. --"Aluminum does not do well in an alkaline environment. It dissolves." Thanks for commenting about that. I kinda thought that was what might happen but.... admittedly would like to know how long I'd get out of a piece before it was reduced to nothingness. My rabbits have a higher than average pH because of their diet. If I can pick up a cheap piece of scrap aluminum.... I think I'll toss it in a tray and see what my rabbits' pee does to it just to definitively rule out using it as a temporary floor grate or urine guard. I still think I'd like to try using aluminum for other components of the housing.MM 211Smith Tru Lite O/A set, Thanks Bob!Lincoln AC-225--But you must not change one thing, one pebble, one grain of sand, until you know what good and evil will follow on that act. The world is in balance, in Equilibrium- Ursula K. Le Guin
Reply:You only really need to worry about all the special ways to weld AR if you are using it as AR plate ie a cutting edge or sides of buckets. If you are using it as structural steel,don't it's not structural steel, minor stuff is probably ok buy nothing  serious.  You say that you are going to bolt the too to the table, you are going to have a hell of a time drilling into that AR to get bolts into it, you may be well served just welding it down
Reply:Originally Posted by Firemanmike69You only really need to worry about all the special ways to weld AR if you are using it as AR plate ie a cutting edge or sides of buckets. If you are using it as structural steel,don't it's not structural steel, minor stuff is probably ok buy nothing  serious.  You say that you are going to bolt the too to the table, you are going to have a hell of a time drilling into that AR to get bolts into it, you may be well served just welding it down
Reply:"Aluminum does not do well in an alkaline environment. It dissolves." Thanks for commenting about that. I kinda thought that was what might happen but.... admittedly would like to know how long I'd get out of a piece before it was reduced to nothingness. My rabbits have a higher than average pH because of their diet. If I can pick up a cheap piece of scrap aluminum.... I think I'll toss it in a tray and see what my rabbits' pee does to it just to definitively rule out using it as a temporary floor grate or urine guard. I still think I'd like to try using aluminum for other components of the housing.[/QUOTE]almost All metals dissolve in a alkaline environment, so only way to see is to test