Non Flamable Floor

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OK...here goes.I'm building my shop/shed in a few weeks and it will have a plywood floor (has to be a non-permanent structure, so I cant slab it) and I will be welding in it. I have been looking for a way to keep the floor and lower walls protected from weld spatter and burning. I've been leaning towards cement board like Hardie board for the floor and lower walls but the Silica dust from it isn't real good for you. Does anyone know of a coating or a floor tile/mat system that is weld proof?Any help would be great.HF 180 amp/240 volt Mig (cap mod)1987 Harley FLHTP (project)1990 F350 XLT Lariat S/C dually1990 S&S 11SC Cabover Camper2011 Ford Ranger S/C XLT
Reply:Thin set and slap some tile on it.Loose set concrete pavers. Weight would be an issue.Steel treadplate. I've seen it sold in 12"x12" squares with adhesive on the back, not sure how it holds up.I've done the paver thing. I set the building on 4x6 PT skids that made up the base of the wall. Then I put a couple of inches of sand inside and made it really smooth and level, I used dry sand. Then set the pavers carefully, working from the pavers I'd already set. When done I broomed more sand over it and ran a plate compactor over it. It was basically like a concrete floor, but not quite as smooth.Mr. HE
Reply:I'm guessing you're looking for as cheap as possible? Will you be rolling things around in there or is everything stationary? Harbor Freight sells 8x8 welding blankets for $38. You could just lay that down under your welding work area, or even buy enough to cover your whole shop floor and screw them down nice and tight. Or there's always the peel and stick tiles. They won't catch on fire, but they may melt... I asked a similar question on here a while back and I think someone mentioned there's fire retardant coating you could "paint" onto plywood.John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:Find a local place that sells steel roofing that rolls their own panels. Ask if you can buy the amount you need to cover the floors and walls. I know of a few companies around here that have their own presses, and roll out the size roofing panels you need. Some of them may work with you to sell you the amount you need, without forming it into roof panels. It comes in long rolls, so they can just roll out what you need and cut it for you or you can take it home and cut it to length your self. Then just screw it down making sure to overlap some. Worth a shot to ask'em if you want to go that route. You will have a big choice of colors to choose from too, if that matters any.
Reply:Dude , you live in SoCal where air quality is a bigger concern than the weather. You weld and emit toxins and your worried about silica dust? The silica is only when you cut it.
Reply:Thanks for the answers so far. Yes I will be rolling things on this floor and I do have a large welding blanket that I use when welding inside the cars. I have thought about doing 16ga sheets on the floor and the sides.Insaneride...yes I worry about the Silica dust. I will have an exhaust fan for the fumes and I wear a mask when welding. Silica dust WILL FUC$ you up, If its not coated with something the Silica is friable and it will ALWAYS be in the air. Trust me coming from the water/sewer industry......you do not want to put this stuff down and then work on it without some kind of coating on it to keep the Silica contained.HF 180 amp/240 volt Mig (cap mod)1987 Harley FLHTP (project)1990 F350 XLT Lariat S/C dually1990 S&S 11SC Cabover Camper2011 Ford Ranger S/C XLT
Reply:Anyone used BanFire Intumescent Fire Retardant Paint?HF 180 amp/240 volt Mig (cap mod)1987 Harley FLHTP (project)1990 F350 XLT Lariat S/C dually1990 S&S 11SC Cabover Camper2011 Ford Ranger S/C XLT
Reply:Hey Scout,I can't help with the paint, but research this:http://www.ardexamericas.com/en-us/P...es/TLWOOD.aspxIt's an underlayment so will need floor covering or an overlayment, but Ardex makes the best cement based patch material in the world.Sent while hiding at work using Tapatalk Lincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....
Reply:Simply pour a minimum of 2" of concrete over the existing floor. More if the floor is "bouncy"..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:You need to remember that hot spatter will roll for some distance before it stops so if you've got wooden walls and a concrete floor you need to make sure theres no dust or flammable items laying around, otherwise you could be calling 911
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauFind a local place that sells steel roofing that rolls their own panels. Ask if you can buy the amount you need to cover the floors and walls. I know of a few companies around here that have their own presses, and roll out the size roofing panels you need. Some of them may work with you to sell you the amount you need, without forming it into roof panels. It comes in long rolls, so they can just roll out what you need and cut it for you or you can take it home and cut it to length your self. Then just screw it down making sure to overlap some. Worth a shot to ask'em if you want to go that route. You will have a big choice of colors to choose from too, if that matters any.
Reply:Originally Posted by Gerry1964You need to remember that hot spatter will roll for some distance before it stops so if you've got wooden walls and a concrete floor you need to make sure theres no dust or flammable items laying around, otherwise you could be calling 911
Reply:I see the sheet metal overlay as troublesome. I would think splatter would stick to it causing headaches while rolling on a creeper.I like Doug's suggestion of a concrete overlay, but if I was in your position, I'd just go for a real slab poured incognito if need be Sent while hiding at work using Tapatalk Lincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....
Reply:I'm in a rental place so I'm not allowed to screw things into the wall etc, so I'm making a structure within the structure using the lightweight steel house framing that is available these days.  It will be free-standing, and will have gal sheeting on the floor, ceiling and walls.
Reply:Can you just mist it down with water? I used to do that all the time in wood floor buildings doing industrial rehabs. A good spray would leave the floor damp for hours. Not wet, just damp. And then a good spray at the end of the shift to make sure...
Reply:Originally Posted by desertscoutAnyone used BanFire Intumescent Fire Retardant Paint?
Reply:Why can't it be a permanent structure?  Around here many 10'x12' garden sheds are non permanent so they don't have to pay building permit/property taxes.  But if it's non permanent you can't wire it either so where is the go go juice to run the welder?   Really what you are asking/wanting to do is very ignorant all the way around.  If it's small enough of a structure to have a wood floor no matter what you do sparks and slag is going to hit the flammable walls.  So now your sheathing the entire thing.  Still to small for good ventilation so your destroying your lungs. Small buildings have higher material cost per square foot.  So pony up and get  a building permit and build a real shed.  If you can't because you live in a subdivision or someplace similar your neighbors are going to call the police on you for the noise and racket that welding paraphernalia will make. So for the very infrequent welding that you will be able to do just put your welder on a cart or buy longer leads and do it outside.  I have a 32x60 shop and I still do a majority of stick welding outside so I don't have to pull vehicles out and worry about grinding grit and fire any where. 100' of lead purchased has done me well. Tig is still done indoors but somehow I doubt your doing thatLast edited by firebrick43; 06-20-2014 at 11:57 AM.
Reply:Be very careful about sheet metal over a flammable subfloor. Heat can transfer right through the sheet metal to the wood, and start the wood below smoldering. How about pouring self leveling concrete or gypcrete over your wood floor. Then seal it with the cheapest epoxy garage floor sealer you can find. Sheet metal for the walls. This would be very strong and flat and completely fireproof. Or, lay down hardibacker with sheet metal over that for a wear surface. If spatter sticks to the floor metal might be annoying though. If your subfloor was stable you could do a thin layer of self leveling concrete over hardibacker too.
Reply:Originally Posted by firebrick43Why can't it be a permanent structure?  Around here many 10'x12' garden sheds are non permanent so they don't have to pay building permit/property taxes.  But if it's non permanent you can't wire it either so where is the go go juice to run the welder?   Really what you are asking/wanting to do is very ignorant all the way around.  If it's small enough of a structure to have a wood floor no matter what you do sparks and slag is going to hit the flammable walls.  So now your sheathing the entire thing.  Still to small for good ventilation so your destroying your lungs. Small buildings have higher material cost per square foot.  So pony up and get  a building permit and build a real shed.  If you can't because you live in a subdivision or someplace similar your neighbors are going to call the police on you for the noise and racket that welding paraphernalia will make. So for the very infrequent welding that you will be able to do just put your welder on a cart or buy longer leads and do it outside.  I have a 32x60 shop and I still do a majority of stick welding outside so I don't have to pull vehicles out and worry about grinding grit and fire any where. 100' of lead purchased has done me well. Tig is still done indoors but somehow I doubt your doing that
Reply:As I saiid before , sparks and slag just don't go down, they go out.  In a building that small they would be hitting both walls at the same time. So now your sheathing both walls all the up.  Now you may be be fire proof, if the metal doesn't heat up and cause the underlying wood to smolder and burn the shed in the middle of the night while your sleeping taking all your tools with it.  Also welding with mig or stick creates fumes.  Good ventilation is impertinent.  Never seen a 10x12 shed with good ventilation. So, by all means carry on. It's your money and your lungs. Or lay some pavers outside, get a portable welding table and some long leads and weld safe outdoors.
Reply:Originally Posted by firebrick43As I said before , sparks and slag just don't go down, they go out.  In a building that small they would be hitting both walls at the same time. So now your sheathing both walls all the up.  Now you may be be fire proof, if the metal doesn't heat up and cause the underlying wood to smolder and burn the shed in the middle of the night while your sleeping taking all your tools with it.  Also welding with mig or stick creates fumes.  Good ventilation is impertinent.  Never seen a 10x12 shed with good ventilation. So, by all means carry on. It's your money and your lungs. Or lay some pavers outside, get a portable welding table and some long leads and weld safe outdoors.
Reply:I would say that sheeting the floor and lower walls will not be an option for me. I am starting to think that Hardie board with a non-flammable sealer over it might be the way to go. I have found some clear non flammable coatings that I can use, but since I'm still on vacation I will have to contact the companies about its durability on a floor when I get home. Thanks to most for there help and suggestions I am still looking for an answer and will report back when I get closer to doing the building.HF 180 amp/240 volt Mig (cap mod)1987 Harley FLHTP (project)1990 F350 XLT Lariat S/C dually1990 S&S 11SC Cabover Camper2011 Ford Ranger S/C XLT
Reply:Hey Scout, if you're going with Hardie board, see if you can find some Raeco R50 to overlay it with. Extremely durable and you wouldn't need a sealer that would wear off.  Affordable too.Sent while hiding at work using Tapatalk Lincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....
Reply:Originally Posted by dubl_tHey Scout, if you're going with Hardie board, see if you can find some Raeco R50 to overlay it with. Extremely durable and you wouldn't need a sealer that would wear off.  Affordable too.Sent while hiding at work using Tapatalk
Reply:If starting with a level floor, dry laid brick would work as well as possibly being free if you scrounge for it.I used to weld only OAW and mostly outside or in large buildings.  When I started TIG, I moved inside and the space is small, about 8' by 12' and barely large enough for most things.  There's a barn door on one wall and an exterior door on the opposite side.  The ventilation is very good.  Two doors or two windows opposite from one another in the longest direction, one with a fan and you'll enjoy the same ventilation as a wind tunnel!Originally Posted by desertscoutIt always amazes me how people think that everyone is an idiot but them. I have been welding for over 20 years....I know what slag and spray does while welding. I was asking for opinions on how to semi fire-proof a small shed/shop for occasional welding.  I don't build frames or weld 6 hours a day, I'M A HOBBY WELDER, but I guess you missed that. and its obvious that you really didn't read any of the body text or you would know that I plan to treat the walls with whatever I plan to do and that I haven't decided to sheet anything with thin steel, in fact I havent even built it yet. And just because you haven't seen a decent ventilation system in a 10x12 shed/shop doesn't mean it cant be done. In your opinion if I don't build a 2000 square foot building, in which to do hobby welding, then I've wasted my time. I get that your into going big....I'm not, I'm retired and do a little welding from time to time. I weld outside most of the time, but from time to time I will be welding in the shed.
Reply:I did some OA brazing last week in a good sized garage (30'x50' or so). The boric acid flux choked me up.  I had to move outside.  I would not weld inside a garden shed period: especially if your concerned with health. Also, Im no Tiggr but I did TIG inside my 20x20 garage with doors closed and felt poisoned for a couple days.For an opinion on your floor.  Leave it dirt if you dont want it to burn.I was at a wholesale place yesterday. They now sell a fire rated (25 minutes) treated plywood in standard widths. Seems like a joke. I thought plywood was good for 15 minutes without treatment.
Reply:how about garage concrete epoxy paint? or rockguard/bedliner?http://www.behr.com/consumer_ca/prod...ge-floor-paintor https://www.duplicolor.com/products/bedArmor/you could just roll them on and let dry.
Reply:Originally Posted by firebrick43What I don't like is cheap little garden sheds with wood floors.  Had one when I lived in Menifee California in the desert and the wood floor still rotted out. Hotter than hades inside and cramped head room.  Extra money for insulation, full sheathing, a slab, and permanent wiring not only increases ones enjoyment of there work space but leads to better craftsmanship and increases the value of your property.  I still wouldn't weld inside but outside except for tig[ATTACH=CONFIG]753471[/ATTACH
Reply:Well....after going over all the crap that available for a "fireproof/resistant" coating and the cost of said products, it will be cheaper to slab the floor. (who would have thunk!) With the cost of the treated wood that's needed for the floor and the support system and the added cost for the fire coatings its actually cheaper to go with a slab as long as I do it myself.HF 180 amp/240 volt Mig (cap mod)1987 Harley FLHTP (project)1990 F350 XLT Lariat S/C dually1990 S&S 11SC Cabover Camper2011 Ford Ranger S/C XLT
Reply:try lightweight concrete, I don't know of its flammability but it is used in many commercial buildingsRegardsDave
Reply:I got my little shed/shop started.....so far got about $400.00 into it. Work is going slowly due to the amount for other things that I need to do around here.HF 180 amp/240 volt Mig (cap mod)1987 Harley FLHTP (project)1990 F350 XLT Lariat S/C dually1990 S&S 11SC Cabover Camper2011 Ford Ranger S/C XLT
Reply:Before you go through the work of laying hardy board or cement board down. Grab a small piece and whack it with a hammer.. You will change your mind. They do not hold up to any kind of pressure ,(like a wheel on a welding cart) they are made with oxygenated concrete and styrofoam beads so they are lighter, and crush very easily.Just my experience with itReal welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:I think I'm going to go with thin steel or aluminum sheeting for the inside walls. Started sheeting the outside and got all the stuff for the roof todayHF 180 amp/240 volt Mig (cap mod)1987 Harley FLHTP (project)1990 F350 XLT Lariat S/C dually1990 S&S 11SC Cabover Camper2011 Ford Ranger S/C XLT
Reply:Originally Posted by desertscoutI think I'm going to go with thin steel or aluminum sheeting for the inside walls. Started sheeting the outside and got all the stuff for the roof today
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1Painted metal for walls maybe better then shinny galvanized. You could get flashed from the shinny stuff through the back of your hood.