Question about 45's

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I don't really know how to ask this question so I'll do the best I can. When you miter a 45, on say square tubing, how do you go about welding the outside edge of that joint? The top bottom and inside is not a problem there is plenty of "meat" but the outside edge always gives me issues due to how thin that corner is, and also there's not much there to weld to, it's just baiscly a point. Do you grind it down flat a little bit by  putting a "land" on it, or do you just make do wih what you have. Sorry if this is a silly question, it's just something that has always caused me some issues. I mostly run stick, but from time to time I will run a mig gun.  Thanks
Reply:Not a silly question at all - I grind a flat on the outside edge.  That thin knife edge doesn't weld right.Any type of cut that gives me that knife edge, I grind it down.  Same for aluminum.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:45'S are small records that play at 45 RPM...LP'S are big records played at 33 1/3 RPM....78'S are played at 78 RPM.........zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveNot a silly question at all - I grind a flat on the outside edge.  That thin knife edge doesn't weld right.Any type of cut that gives me that knife edge, I grind it down.  Same for aluminum.
Reply:Hello CodyJo, here's a sketch that might show what the others are talking about. Best regards, Allan Attached Imagesaevald
Reply:I make those fits a lot on handrails using tubing that is 1/8" wall. On that I cut the tubes a little shorter than the actual dimentions and put a 1/8" gap in the fit that I weld with MIG. If I am stick welding it I gap 3/32". I never cut tube and then miter it. That is cutting it twice. More work. When I cut one 45 degree miter on a tube I get another miter free that I can use. Starting with a new stick of tubing I can build a square frame with four miter cuts by making only five cuts. If you cut it to length first and then miter it that same frame would take twelve cuts.The worst thing I can think of happening is if everything I ever welded instantly became UNWELDED
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmOr I leave the material a hair short so the cut doesn't make it clear to the end of the tube.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Agreed.  At least when starting with a squared cut piece.Is that to avoid getting a length a little off because that results in three times the cutting per corner.
Reply:Originally Posted by tackitI thought this was going to be a question about a Gary Reeder 45 long colt.
Reply:Thanks guys I see what all of y'all are saying and it make perfect sense to me. I know everyone has their own way of doing things, so I figured at least one of y'all could put me on the right track.
Reply:I used to mitre right off the stock. I had a lot of issues with inconsistent lengths then. Even if it was just 1/8" over, sometimes it was enough to throw everything off. Also took much longer for me to actually position it because it was difficult for me to see where the blade would come down. So now I cut to length first, then mitre, in this case, I can set up a stop that will position the tubes so just the end is taken off, and repeatability is almost perfect. I do A LOT of odd angle mitres so for me it just makes sense to bundle cut 12-16 pieces in my bigger band saw and while the next batch is cutting, I'll take the cut pieces and mitre them in my little band saw or in the cold saw. Also, most of my work is with thin wall square tubing, so I like to mitre the pieces 1/2 to 1 degree smaller than desired so I have a nice small gap at the corner I can fill in with weld. Right now I'm working on a batch of benches with over 300 pieces all mitred on at least one end in different angles. So if I can cut out the grinding the knife edge step by the way I cut my metal, I just saved hours of work.John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:I have also been making my cut lengths before mitering.  I can set my stop and cut a bunch of the one length, once I've got all my pieces cut I set a stop for my 45 degree cuts.  I've been doing a lot of angle with my bandsaw for making guards for pulleys, conveyor heads, and bearings.  I set my stop so the the thickness of the outside edge isn't cut at a 45, made a drawing what I'm talking about.  Only thing you have to remember is to figure in that thickness into your welded dimensions.  So say you're using 1/8" angle and you're building a box 10" x 10", you'd make your cuts 9 3/4", twice the thickness of the material.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Agreed.  At least when starting with a squared cut piece.Is that to avoid getting a length a little off because that results in three times the cutting per corner.
Reply:There's a big difference between using tube vs other shapes. With tube your cut end is the same but with say angle your cut would be opposite anyway. On tube cutting it 90 degrees before the miter cut wastes tubing.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapster45'S are small records that play at 45 RPM...LP'S are big records played at 33 1/3 RPM....78'S are played at 78 RPM.........zap!