Tig filler rod or no?

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I'm practicing to weld a muffler on one of my Jeeps. I'm practicing on some thin stainless tubing, maybe 16ga or .065, based on sheet metal guage.Im using an .040 tungsten at 35 amps (lowest setting on my stick machine). Seems like I burn through too easy because of the time it takes to pause and dip the rod. Should I just use no filler and move as fast as the puddle forms?Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 and WP17. 75A AC is for pipe thawing!HH 140 - new addtion 9/2012.I didn't agree, but hoped for Hope and Change.I got change for myself and my family: for the worse.This is the reality of: Barackalypse Now. Again.
Reply:Try practicing with oxy/acetylene torch and using a coat hanger for filler metal.......1) Mufflers and pipes are mild steel that has a galvanized finish.2) It is impossible to grind off all of the galvanize. The torch will burn it off and expose the bare metal.3) The torch method will stress releive the joint and it won't crack after being in service.Another "Old School" method that worked for many years prior to arc welding being invented.Lincoln SA200's... at least 15 - 20. They come and go. Growing partial to the "Short Hoods" in my old age. Last count on Short Hoods was 13 in possession.
Reply:I've been considering cutting equipment and have my eye out for the right CL OA as one option; I realize the welding and cutting torches are different. But for now the options are: stick it with 1/16' 6013, mig it with plain steel .024 or tig it with no filler or  with ss filler.I've heard of the old school coat hanger method as well.My skill is best with stick overall, but its a crap shoot on sheet metal to this point. I think I'll have better control with tig if I get some confidence through practice. I'm considering stitching the whole thing instead of continuous bead.Last edited by jtcnj; 10-14-2012 at 11:48 AM.Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 and WP17. 75A AC is for pipe thawing!HH 140 - new addtion 9/2012.I didn't agree, but hoped for Hope and Change.I got change for myself and my family: for the worse.This is the reality of: Barackalypse Now. Again.
Reply:With what you have available I would use the mig. Just my opinion.
Reply:use mig and if you still burn thru,stitch weld with the mig.miller thunderbolt 250vlincoln square wave tig 175 prolincoln idealarc mig sp250everlast tig 210EXTeverlast power plasma 50chicago electric (hf) 130 tig/90 arcchicago electric 90 amp flux wire3 sets oxy/acet
Reply:When Muff shops used to use OA  the good muff guys  would use a big tip and 1/8 inch rod.......Hold the torch almost  flat to the weld joint and melt the filler rod as it lays into the weld joint.......Heat the tube and filler at the same time and run with it.....Takes practice but works good......OR  use you mig welder with .028 wire either way it takes practice  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:MIG shouldn't be a problem on 1/16 using .024 wire. I did a motorcycle subframe from square tube that size with .030 wire and it worked fine as long as I moved quickly.Lincoln 175HD
Reply:I've had some success with .035 wall tubing using FCAW, .030 wire was better than the .035 wire, but pulsing the trigger for a stich effect helped with the burn through, .o24 wire would probably work even better.Don't sniff that galvanize smoke A TIG with pulse would be proSqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by hobohiltonTry practicing with oxy/acetylene torch and using a coat hanger for filler metal.......1) Mufflers and pipes are mild steel that has a galvanized finish.2) It is impossible to grind off all of the galvanize. The torch will burn it off and expose the bare metal.3) The torch method will stress releive the joint and it won't crack after being in service.Another "Old School" method that worked for many years prior to arc welding being invented.