Some stainless TIG welds from school..

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Here's a couple pics of what I've been up to this past week. Please forgive the quality of the pics, they are from my cell phone. Sorry, I dont have any pictures of the root in either pipe since my phone has no flash. I have a video showing the cap and root all the way around on both welds but I need to figure out how to get it uploaded.-6" Schedule 10 stainless pipe-Solar Flux-3/32" thoriated tungsten-3/32" gap-3/32" filler wire-48 amps-2G position-6" Schedule 10 stainless pipe-Solar Flux-3/32" thoriated tungsten-1/8" gap-1/8" filler wire used on root-3/32" filler wire used on the cap-50 amps-5G positionThanks for looking, let me know what yall think, comments and constructive criticism are encouraged.Brandon SullivanLast edited by DBSULLY; 11-07-2012 at 03:17 PM.
Reply:I am not a boilermaker, but why the gaps? On walls that thin I would just penetrate thru. And 50 amps is way to cold for my liking. Is that scratch arc amps?Otherwise you have talent.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Shovelon- thanks for the reply. I suppose you could get rid of the gap and just fuse them together, but in my opinion the gap is necessary on this thin pipe to get proper fusion and break the walls down. I was told 45-55 amps is about where you want to be with this thin gauge stainless. I've tried it on about 70 amps but heated the pipe up too much. That could be due to my travel speed not being fast enough though.   Brandon
Reply:To big of filler wire Imo. To cold as well. Smaller filler will consume faster and with a little more heat you can move on much quicker.I'll try and post a link to a thread I have on the miller forum explaining with pics. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...t-I-do-at-workLast edited by Showdog75; 11-07-2012 at 06:05 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonI am not a boilermaker, but why the gaps? On walls that thin I would just penetrate thru. And 50 amps is way to cold for my liking. Is that scratch arc amps?Otherwise you have talent.
Reply:Originally Posted by claymans13You set the gap so you can break the walls down properly and get the proper amount of reinforcement weld on the inside of the tubing. If you simply fused them together you would run the risk of suck back on the hotpass. We were taught to set a 3/32 gap, but that is HARDLY the case in the field. Last job i was on me and my partner had to weld a 3/4in gap on a slope.
Reply:Originally Posted by Showdog75Wouldn't fly on code work.I'll take a knife edge prep minimal gap on something that thin.If you push the filler in on the hot pass suck back won't be a issue.The big gap is totally unnecessary.
Reply:Boiler tubes are likely welded differently than pipe work. We tig the root, and stick the hot/flush pass with 8018, and Inconel 622 mo-10 caps.ESAB MigMaster 275Miller Econotwin HFMiller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Do you ever weld root with stick? Or is it always tig?
Reply:With carbon steel, yes you can weld a 6010 root and 7018 to fill it up and cap it. But with stainless you have to use TIG because it is very succeptable to warping from too much heat being applied and TIG welding allows for a lot more controlled weld than stick IMO. Also, to my knowledge there is no such thing as a stainless stick rod. But I could be wrong.
Reply:Originally Posted by DBSULLYWith carbon steel, yes you can weld a 6010 root and 7018 to fill it up and cap it. But with stainless you have to use TIG because it is very succeptable to warping from too much heat being applied and TIG welding allows for a lot more controlled weld than stick IMO. Also, to my knowledge there is no such thing as a stainless stick rod. But I could be wrong.
Reply:Originally Posted by ShortbusWelderThey make stainless stick rods, I welded with them before..
Reply:Sure, go ahead. I always like to see other peoples work. I didnt even know stainless stick rods existed, so id like to see some welds with them.
Reply:Here is 2 pictures from one weld, other picture is inside of the pipe and other from surface.It has been cut in half, becouse it was a test, so it was x-rayed. Pipe is 2mm thick and 48,3 mm wide?(im not sure is that the right word) Its welded with one bead, so surface and root comes at the same time. Esab 63.20 is the rod. welded uphill 6g Attached Images
Reply:Hmm, bad pictures, sorry  Im not an expert with cameras and computers.. Hope you can see it tho.
Reply:Svetsare- Thanks for the picture. Ive never seen a stainless stick weld, but from what I can see that one turned out nice.
Reply:Thank you.  it could be have been better, but it was my first test weld on stainless steel with stick. Thats why I kept it. I need to weld that test again, tomorrow or monday, so maybe I take some pictures of it, see if there is any progress on my welds. I could take some pictures of those welds that are rolled and welded downhill. They look much better. If they come out succesfull...
Reply:I've been welding pipe for 30 years and never had to use solar flux. What does it weld like, mud?,
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGI've been welding pipe for 30 years and never had to use solar flux. What does it weld like, mud?,
Reply:TimmyTIG- It doesnt weld quite as clean as with purging, but it welds just fine. As long as you let it dry sufficiently and keep it off your bevel, there should be no problems.Brandon