Flux core doesn't want to weld

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I got a lincoln mig/flux core machine a while ago from either home depot or lowes, it's a 110v machine, and it suites my needs fine.  It came with flux core so that's what I've been using(used it up this weekend, actually).  For some reason it sometimes doesn't want to weld, as in I pull the trigger and it won't strike an arc.  It does this maybe 25% of the time, and sometimes stops mid weld.I have good power, I ran a dedicated 30amp line to my garage for this and I know that's plenty of power.  I also am plugging directly in to the outlet(20 amp outlet).  I verified the ground clamp has a good connection, was on bare steel(I hit it with a grinder).  I just can't figure out my issue.It's really hard to practice to get better(I know I'm terrible lol) when I can't even get a bead going 25% of the time.I just know so little about welding that I'm wondering if there's something I am doing wrong or something like that.I'm thinking about getting gas and switching to mig, my friend says that's the issue, but he's a newbie as well(although knows a lot more than I do).EDIT:  Oh and I'm welding misc. mild steel scrap in the garage, nothing thicker than 1/8".  The welds I did on some aluminized exhaust pipe turned out decent(at least for me), and it's .030 wire.
Reply:That flux powder that gets left behind with FCAW isn't conductive. If you pass over it mid weave it can snuff your arc. Or if you try to refire without cleaning the metal it can prevent the arc from starting. Change up the weave to avoid this. Also it helps to clip the tip off the wire.Last edited by Snuffy; 11-12-2012 at 01:56 PM.
Reply:Thanks for the response.  So would this be a non issue with MIG?  Flux core is seeming to be a PITA, even though it's supposed to be easier.
Reply:Flux core has it's ups and downs. It's faster to set up and get going. It's also alot harder to see what's going on and there's alot more cleanup involved. GMAW Can be just as bad to learn with if the gas isn't right. It will however produce neater welds. You can get solid welds with FCAW or GMAW. They both have their place. I got a love hate relationship with FCAW myself.
Reply:To answer the question though, I do not believe either process is easier than the other. GMAW will however give you a better view of what's going on. You can get a better idea of what a puddle should look like and the way the metal acts under heat. Because of that, I think GMAW is a better process to learn on than FCAW. FCAW still has it's place though.
Reply:Thanks for the info.  I should post a couple pictures of what I was welding, maybe get some tips.  Most of it is terrible as I couldn't even keep a bead going due to the reasons listed above.  When I welded the aluminized exhaust pipe, though, it was a breeze and turned out pretty good(by comparison).  And I notice it's very hard to see what's going on with the FCAW.
Reply:Midway through a weld does the arc quit & the machine continue to feed wire or does it quit feeding wire? Need more info.REAL TRUCKS DON'T HAVE SPARK PLUGS
Reply:Do you have polarity set for flux core?                                          MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Sorry, wire feed never stops.  Machine keeps running(can hear the fan).  Just loses arc.  Sometimes it's almost like an off/on/off/on/off/on arc that continuously goes back and forth every second or so, even though I'm holding the trigger down continuously.  Then at times it works fine.  I think it has something to do with the material, because welding the aluminized exhaust pipe was near flawless.Does the tip of the gun have any effect?
Reply:Yes polarity is correct.  I guess I could double check it, but when I set the machine up a long time ago I read the manual and set it up for the flux core.  And no one has touched it other than myself.It's not quite as bad as I'm making it sound, as in nothing is wrong with the machine(I don't believe), it's not cutting power or anything, I think it either has to do with my error in welding, or the material maybe.  I though maybe the ground but really cleaned the metal and still not much help with that "fix".
Reply:Originally Posted by snrusnakDoes the tip of the gun have any effect?
Reply:Double check...ground...clean base metal...contact tip...drive roll tension... correct voltage & wire speed settings...use brand name wire(lincoln,hobart, etc)REAL TRUCKS DON'T HAVE SPARK PLUGS
Reply:I have had zero feeding issues, so I guess the tip is ok.  I just knock the splatter off every once in a while once it starts building up.I'll double check the ground connection in the machine, and then get some more FCAW for next weekend and screw around a bit more.
Reply:You are not approaching the duty cycle on the machine; Some of the small machines only have 20% at any setting that you could actually weld at. Check for the ground clamp having an internal loose connection. Some of them are really bad.
Reply:mwshaw, what do you mean?  I know what duty cycle is(basically, anyway).  But are you saying I can rule that out as an issue since I am only doing small portions of welding at a time?  I don't believe I'm putting much strain on the machine, reaching duty cycle(although I should look and see what the actual duty cycle is...).  I will double check grounds.
Reply:Here's some pictures:These two are from several weeks ago, when I was using a line that had a 15amp outlet on a 20 amp breaker(not dedicated).  It'd throw the breaker after about 2 inches of continuous use.  These I thought were eh...This one is from yesterday on a dedicated line with 30 amp breaker and 20 amp outlet.  No other changes.  You can see where the arc stopped and restarted.  I never let off the trigger.This is the aluminized exhaust pipe that was a little better.  I know it looks horrible but seemed to be penetrating ok.
Reply:Any other comments?I think I'm going to stick with FCAW for now and will try to get better with it, before switching to MIG.  I need to buy more wire, is it ok to use the cheap stuff like from harbor freight, or should I get the lincoln inner shield?
Reply:Check your gun triggerThe main thing is not to panic or get excited Bobcat 250, X-Treme 12VS,  MM211Meltabo, Milwaukee,Porter Cable,Dewalt,MakitaVictor O/A, Ingersoll-RandEvolution Rage2, 40 amp PlasmaLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:What should I look for?  A loose wire or something?I am very handy, I know how to do a lot, but I've never seen or touched a welder before buying this one, so it's a bit intimidating.  Id assume I can take the gun apart and inspect that there's no issues with trigger operation.  Although I don't suspect there is due to the fact that I get constant wire feed...does that make sense?
Reply:I would ensure that your contact tip is the right size for your wire (0.030"). A larger tip size (e.g. 0.035") will allow wire to feed and might work OK, but may be too loose for good consistent electrical contact, which appears to be the problem you are having.XMT304 (school)SP125+ (home)HF 4x6 BandsawGood judgement comes from experience and much of that comes from bad judgement.
Reply:^I will definitely look into that.  I never thought about that, I just used what was installed when I bought the machine.  Thanks for the info.
Reply:I don't believe it's the machine.  These are some sorta poor welds.  It's a matter of technique I believe.Pay attention to stickout length.  The big globs of spatter indicate the stickout is too long.  The wire is not burning, it's probably stubbing.  And you probably feel the wire hitting the steel instead of smoothly burning.Remove the gas nozzle, and run the self shielding wire without it.  You don't need the nozzle, and it makes it easier to see the puddle.Start your stickout at approximately 1/4-3/8".  This is the optimal length for most small diameter wire.  A lot of guys like to run longer stickout, but I don't like to.  Amps increase with shorter stickout and give smoother beads, and better penetration.Drag the gun, don't whip it.  Just smooth drag, watch the puddle, and a slight weave to establish the toes.  It's no different than stick welding, all that's different is the auto feed......no pushing the stick into the puddle."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:When I see pronounced ripples in a wire weld, or lo-hy stick weld it can only come from two things.  Either there's too much movement back into/over the puddle, or the gun/rod is being run at a steep angle.  A steep angle is a matter of preference, and it's ok provided the puddle isn't blown all over the place.  Movement back over the puddle isn't acceptable though.Some self shielding flux core at minimal stickout, max voltage acceptable for the wire, and travel speed dictated by the puddle.  Just dragging the puddle along overhead while watching for fill, undercut, and droop.  No ripples, just a smooth bead because the wire never travels back into the puddle, and the gun is pulled without anything but a gentle side to side motion.The only time you should see pronounce ripples is when going uphill.  It's just the filler drooping under the influence of gravity.  Flux core is run uphill much the same as on a flat or overhead weld............just a drag with gentle side to side movement.  No pausing at the toes is necessary when running stringers."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Thanks farmer!I do realize these are not good welds, I am trying to learn, this is the first spool of wire I've ever welded with, and have no other experience.  I also agree and do not believe it is the machine, I believe it is user error.I have been trying to keep about a 1/4" stickout length.  I will concentrate on keeping the gun closer to the metal I'm welding, maybe that is the reason I'm losing arc...?  I will also take what you said about continuous pull with side to side motion and practice that, as I was stopping before.  I'll do some practice this weekend as long as I can figure out where to buy more wire and what kind I should get.Thanks for the help.
Reply:My welder is like this(although can't remember if it's a 125 or 140 amp model...):http://www.lowes.com/pd_256722-1703-...ers&facetInfo=How do I figure out if I can put a larger spool on it?  Or should I stick with the 1 and 2 pound spools?Dude,Step #1:  RTFM.That will tell you about making sure the polarity is set correctly (most FCAW is DCEN and GMAW is DCEP).  Not sure what those mean?  RTFM.  Then the manual will also tell you things like what size wire spools you can use (most of the 'little' machines can use the 4" spools (which are usually 1-2 lbs of wire on the spool, 2 lb of solid wire for GMAW or 1 lb of FCAW wire like Lincoln NR-211-MP).  Some of the 'little' machines can also use the 8" spools, which are usually 10 lb for FCAW and 10-12 lb for solid wire GMAW .Also, this part isn't directly in the manual, but use a 'quality' wire.  Trying to learn with 'cheap' wire can be really-really frustrating because you don't know enough to tell if any 'problems' are you or the machine or the wire.I suggest using some Lincoln NR-211-MP wire.  Decent stuff (when used within its limits) and generally available.Next, back to the manual.  Read the part where you have to match the drive roller(s) and the contact tip to the wire diameter of whatever wire you are using at the time.  Some 0.035 FCAW NR-211-MP wire? Make sure you have the 0.035 contact tip in place and the 0.035 drive roller(s) (or the appropriate 0.030/0.035 combo groove on the drive roller if the machine is made that way).  Some 0.030 wire?  Use the 0.030 contact tip and the appropriate drive roller(s).  0.023/0.025 wire, make sure to have an 0.023/0.025 contact tip in place and the 0.025 drive roller(s).  Etc, etc.Using some 0.030 wire with an 0.035 contact tip in place and you will get all sorts of grief and problems when you 'attempt' to weld.Although you don't 'need' a gas nozzle when doing FCAW-S welds, Lincoln machines (at least the small/smaller ones) come with or can use an FCAW nozzle.  That's the black plastic cone-shaped nozzle 'thingy'.  It's purpose is to keep splatter and crud from getting into/onto the gas diffuser (that is essential for GMAW welding) that the contact tips screw into.  Unscrew the copper gas nozzle and use the FCAW nozzle.Next, check all the electrical connections.  Inside the wire compartment on the small Lincolns, you will find two wingnut/thumbscrew connections that allow you to swap the polarity of the machine's output (remember the DCEN and DCEP).  Make sure those are snugged properly (as well as having the polarity set properly for FCAW, which is DCEN in this case).Also check the connection where the welding  gun connects to the machine.  RTFM on where/how those things are supposed to be.Right out of the manual for the Lincoln PM140/180 machines, under the "Troubleshooting" section under "Arc is unstable - Poor starting":1. Check for correct input voltage to machine.2. Check for proper electrode polarity for process.3. Check gun tip for wear or damage and proper size – Replace.4. Check for proper gas and flow rate for process. (For MIG only.)5. Check work cable for loose or faulty connections.6. Check gun for damage or breaks.7. Check for proper drive roll orientation and alignment.8. Check liner for proper size.If everythings checks out OK after you RTFM, then you can finally get to setting the parameters on the machine.  Your couple of pictures with your weld attempts seem waaaaaay too 'cold' to me.  Especially on some thin-wall steel exhaust tube/pipe, those machines have more than enough power to blow right through that thin stuff with FCAW.After that, you need to slow down your travel speed.  Your weld attempt is just piled up on top of the surface of the base material.  From a combination I suspect of an 0.035 contact tip in place with your 0.030 FCAW wire and your machine's parameters set too low and you moving too fast.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Dude,Step #1: RTFM.That will tell you about making sure the polarity is set correctly (most FCAW is DCEN and GMAW is DCEP). Not sure what those mean? RTFM.
Reply:Originally Posted by snrusnakAny other comments?I think I'm going to stick with FCAW for now and will try to get better with it, before switching to MIG.  I need to buy more wire, is it ok to use the cheap stuff like from harbor freight, or should I get the lincoln inner shield?
Reply:^thanks that's what I was looking for.  The comments on the HF site some were good some were bad so I wasn't sure.  I'll stick with the inner sheild, I think I can get it through lowes and HD for now...
Reply:I would check to see if your MIG gun lead is securely tighten into the welder.    In my case, I was welding with gas, and I was getting terrible welds, and found the gun was loose at the machine, so I wasn't getting gas at the gun.   In your case, since your using Fluxcore,  I would assume it being loose is causing the drop of voltage or loss of arc?  I found this happens because I twist, pull, etc on the gun lead and it can gradually come loose.   Hope it's that easy of a fix!
Reply:Originally Posted by snrusnakWell, first of all I have read the manual when I bought the machine a while ago.  I did set the machine up with the correct polarity per instructions.  I know I'm new and not knowledgable on the topic but no need to be a jerk.  Other than that I appreciate the input below, I will proceed with it.  I will double check the tip size although I doubt they sent the gun set up with a .035 tip if it came with .030 wire.I will try more heat next time as well.
Reply:Some guy takes the time to give you some good tips trying to help you out & you call him a jerk?Have a tip for you bud, judging from your photos you don't have a clue to what you're doing, go take a welding course and learn the basics & lose the pissy little attitude if you want help from some of the experienced guys on these sites.
Reply:And just to be clear I really don't have an attitude, and wasn't really trying to call you a jerk moorise, just thought it was a bit rude/unnecessary.  I know I don't know what I'm doing, I'm trying to learn.  I have read the manual, I did set up polarity correctly, I believe the tip is correct(I will double check), and I know the drive is correct(.030).Through the whole thread I have pretty much said I believe the machine is ok and I'm doing something wrong.  I know my welds are bad, I posted them to see if maybe someone could comment and say "not enough heat" or "too much wire feed" or something to get me going in the right direction.  I believe the guy on page 1 answered the question as to why my arc was unstable, I believe I was probably holding the tip too far away from the material being welded.I am going to take all this advice this weekend and practice a little.I want to thank everyone for the tips.  I don't have an attitude, not trying to start pissing matches here, just looking for help.  I suppose I should have made the title of this thread "I can't get the flux core to weld"
Reply:Keep in mind the number of noobs that come to this site and ask a bunch of questions that would have been answered already if they RTFM...  that is probably why some may seem a little impatient here.  The Search function is a good idea too.   The How do I use a FCAW or MIG welder has been asked and answered many times ..Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:I do understand, just saying I'm not trying to start pissing matches here.  I should have looked in the book for the spool sizes, I get it.  The other stuff though, I have read through it.  Just that without having someone showing you how to do it personally, I believe it is difficult to learn proper technique.To relate it to my field, I am a masonry contractor, and although laying a block or even more so a brick looks like a very unskilled and easy task, it is actually quite difficult to do correctly.  It takes a highly skilled laborer to do well.  Apprentices go through years of training(trade school) before becoming a mason.  Then years and years before becoming very good and proficient.  Any one can lay a block, but not every one can do it well.  Just like any one can weld a bead(as proven in my pics), but not every one can do it well(as seen in my pics) LOLI know I won't be a great welder quickly, especially teaching myself, but I'd think I can figure it out with available resources to at least be able to do simple crap like patch my exhaust, fix the garden rake, etc.I didn't go to school to be a mechanic, but over the years have learned a lot, and can pretty much do anything on a car or motorcycle, all from diving in to it and figuring it out, with available resources such as forums.
Reply:Ok so tonight I:Verified polarity is correct.Verified correct size tip and drive wheel(.035, not .030 like I thought I was using).Verified connections are good.Realized I need to buy an upgrade kit if I want to use MIG(I forgot about that fact....no big deal, but won't be doing this anytime soon).I am using NR 211 MP wire.  I'll buy more of the same since recommended above.Machine can use either 4" or 8" diameter spools.I'll be getting more wire, rereading this thread, and practicing this weekend.  Thanks again for the help everyone.
Reply:Lot's of good info for starting out herehttp://mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm
Reply:Thanks for the link, will check it out...
Reply:Sounds like you have given the machine set up the once over pretty well.I might have missed it earlier, I know you said you cleaned and checked your ground, butare you clamping the ground directly to the work or to the table? if its a flat piece let it overhang the table and clamp it down, then put the ground directly to the work. Grind the work clean as well.Try turning up the wire speed a bit, just to try to eliminate burn back. 1/2" stick out is pretty typical with FCAW, but the stickout affects current so vary it to see if it has any effect.I hate FCAW, but I love SMAW, go figure....Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 and WP17. 75A AC is for pipe thawing!HH 140 - new addtion 9/2012.I didn't agree, but hoped for Hope and Change.I got change for myself and my family: for the worse.This is the reality of: Barackalypse Now. Again.
Reply:Here's something thats probably not in the manual, you can dial in the wire speed while welding. Set your self up within reach of the machine, strike an arc and tweek the speed while watching the effect it has on the weld. At a lower setting the wire will start to burn back to the tip as it melts faster than the feed rate, then increase the speed to the point where the wire stubs(pushes away gun) because the machine cannot provide enough current to melt wire. Some where in between is where you need to be, i'd guess closer to the high end is where you will find the sweet spot.Disclaimer*  do not adjust the voltage taps while welding, the machine will not like it.Briggs weldnpower 225/210/cvLn-25 suitcaseMillermatic 130
Reply:you can dial in the wire speed while welding. Set your self up within reach of the machine, strike an arc and tweek the speed while watching the effect it has on the weld.
Reply:I practiced for about an hour this evening and thanks to all the help from you guys I had pretty good results.  I kept the gun closer and had no issues with getting an arc.  I welded several ~1" pieces of exhaust pipe together and although ugly for the most part, I did a lot better.  One thing I noticed is that when "pulling" the gun it'd blow through the metal fairly easy.  When "pushing" the gun I had a lot more control.When you are blowing through, what can be done to prevent this?  I had it on the lowest power setting.
Reply:Immediately after you get to where you can run a solid bead on something, you need to start focusing on heat management. What's going on is actually hard to see with FCAW. Once you strike the arc, you are applying heat to the base metal. That metal will dissipate the heat as fast as it can. When heat input exceeds heat dissipation, the metal will start glowing brighter and bright until poof, big hole. The steel has a duty cycle just like your machine does. The thicker it gets, the high the duty cycle. Pulling the torch will slightly change the profile and add a bit more penetration. Couple that with the low duty cycle of the steel and you get holes.When you get down to gauge steel, you have to start using more methods to manage the heat. Back stitching is common. Even when running with gas and pushing the torch, I'll restart 4-6 times on a 2.5"  diameter exhaust pipe to keep the heat down.
Reply:Thanks Snuffy.  I did most of the welding yesterday "pulling".  I didn't realize it was easier to control "pushing" until the last piece.  That last piece though, I had no issues at all.  Still wasn't pretty, but no holes and seemed like a more controlled weld.  And I was using that method, back stitching about 1-2 inches at a time.
Reply:Self shielded flux core runs like crap when you push, and the penetration sucks.  Try to learn to pull it."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:The nature of flux core is that it's a deep penertrating weld and not ideal for thin metals but as you realized when you push weld the bead lays flatter and has less penetration. It may be ok for muffler pipe and non critical stuff but should drag welded to prevent slag being traped within the weld.to weld thin material you should use the smallest wire available, did you say you have .035? .030 would be slightly better for your machine but still being flux core it will burn hot, ideally .023 solid wire with a mig gas is best for body pannels and muffler work, it dose not penetrate as much and the gas sheilds when push weldingBriggs weldnpower 225/210/cvLn-25 suitcaseMillermatic 130
Reply:Thanks for the info.  Yes I'm using .035 currently.  I plan on buying the kit to be able to use MIG on my machine, but not right now.  Someone else told me(a gear head that is a welder) that I may want to try doing large sport welds all the way around the pipe, overlapping them as I go.  He said this will take longer but it's hard to weld a bead on thin exhaust pipe and this is usually how he does it.
Reply:Originally Posted by snrusnak.... but when I set the machine up a long time ago I read the manual and set it up for the flux core.
Reply:^I guess that's possible although the wire looked clean when using it.  I do believe I was just holding the tip too far away and after getting help here I was more conscious of it.  I still had a couple times I had trouble with the arc, and then realized the tip was very far away.  Moved closer and no issues.
Reply:If there's slag, then drag.SMAW (aka stick) and FCAW both have/use slag, so general practice with those is to "drag".GMAW (aka MIG) does not have/use slag, so for that you generally "push" and do not "drag".The "stick-out" for the small machines is usually 3/8 -  1/2 inch.  That's it.  Not very far at all (but not like holding a TIG tungsten 1/16 - 1/8  inch away from the workpiece   )So yeah, holding the wire/tip too far away from the workpiece and you will have problems with the arc (if you can get/keep an arc at all with the small low-voltage machine at all) and/or problems with the weld.For practice, I would suggest stop using a piece of galvanized thin-wall exhaust pipe.  Go get (find, buy, whatever)  some plain mild-steel about 1/8 inch thick.  Clean the metal of any grease/oil/paint/rust/whatever, clamp the workpiece clamp onto the steel, and make a little weld bead in one spot.  That's it.  No moving around, no weaving or zig-zagging, or even following a seam/joint.  Just pretty much make a single tack weld bead flat in the middle of that piece of  ~1/8 inch plain (clean) mild steel.Did you blast a hole right through the steel?  Then you have the parameters waaay too high for the thickness of metal you are using.  Not really melting into the steel and just piling up a glob of semi-melted wire on top of the steel?  Then your parameters are too low for the thickness of steel.After you do the little single bead 'dot' in one place, then go and try to make a bit of a straight bead on top of that piece of ~1/8 inch thick plain mild steel.Do that and get an idea of looking for and watching the actual puddle of molten steel (both the original materail and the  melting wire that is adding to the steel) and not looking at the bright arc.  But you sort of have to watch how the arc is 'digging' or melting -into- the original steel.Then take your 1/8 inch thick steel material and put one piece on top of another and offset the edges so you have a "lap joint" and clamp the two pieces together (metal C-clamp, or metal vise-grips or whatnot).  Set your machine's parameters for the thickness of the metal you are using (1/8 inch in this exercise), trim the starting amount of wire sticking out past the end of the contact tip to the standard recommended 3/8 inch, and make a weld right along the seam where the lap joint is.  Watch the arc melting both the edge of the piece on top and into the 'face' of the piece underneath, as well as the melting filler wire filling in and making the weld bead as you slowly move along ("dragging" in this case since you are using FCAW).http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...tatorGuide.pdfYeah, that is for GMAW and not FCAW, but look through and just remember that GMAW is "pushing" the puddle along while with FCAW you "drag".  Look at Lesson #1 and Lesson #2.Lincoln's "Learning to Weld"http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...coln3/ltw1.pdf  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...