help with 6010 open root down

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I've been practicing with 1/8" 6010 (no-name cheap chinese rod) open root down hill. Having some trouble. 35 degree bevel, 3/32 land, and 3/32 gap. Any thoughts? Attached ImagesIan TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Try 1/8" land, 3/32 gap to start out with. Pipe, I prefer to drag uphill, as keyhole allows. Mostly, I wind up wipping it in....Dont be overly concerned with amperage, the keyhole knows all....Lincoln Power MIG 210 MP ( boat anchor )Lincoln Weld-Pac 100 HDHobart IronMan 230Cutmaster 42Jackson NexGenSumner Ultra ClampsDWM120
Reply:I'd try to get some Lincoln 6010 5P+ and see if it helps you any.  How many amps are you running?
Reply:well, for starters you might want to grind that rust off!Try a 1/16th gap, that stuff looks pretty thin. When you get a hole you have to back up and let it fill in, maybe slow down some.
Reply:Like Handt said, lose the shyte rod and get some 5P or 5P+. Then you'll know if the problem is with the rod or the operator. A few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:I like a thicker land for 1/8 6010.All I use is Lincoln 6010 5P+I wouldn't waist my time on no name 6010 rod.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:I'll get some lincoln rods and try again. Thanks for the help.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Hmmmmm... What welding machine are you using?HoboLincoln SA200's... at least 15 - 20. They come and go. Growing partial to the "Short Hoods" in my old age. Last count on Short Hoods was 13 in possession.
Reply:Personally I think ESAB's 10P has a slight edge over Lincoln's 5-P, or 5-P Plus. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by hobohiltonHmmmmm... What welding machine are you using?Hobo
Reply:one thing I see, you are welding a difficult piece to start with.  That sliver of metal you have hanging off the end will carry heat a lot differently than the wider portion.  I know you are trying to save on money, so cut the coupon in half and then weld them back together.  after they cool cut it again just to the side of the joint you made and weld it back together.  you can do this keeping your two portions closer to the same ratio than the way you were attempting it.Now, I have used two methods of laying in a root.  really three, but who is counting.  The first method is jamb the rod in the joint with the heat turn up and let the arc force blow through.  All you need to do is stay moving so your keyhole doesn't close up or blow too far open ( I know it seems contradictory).  the second method is to step it in with your traditional whip and pause.  The third method is to step it in with making circles or e's or a variation of the two keeping the heat moving.  This last method you can keep your heat on one side or the other depending upon what your keyhole is telling you.If I am setting it up here lately I have been liking 1/16 and 1/16 or a 3/32 and 3/32.
Reply:You were given some good information, so here's a couple of things I think might help. In the pictures it looks like your material is 10ga. or less, so I would drop another 5 to 10 amps. Rod angle is important. 6010 is a DC rod,so check to see if your machine is DC. If not go with 6011. Hope this helps.
Reply:fortyonethirtyAll of the recommendations will work quicker if you make theoutboard coupon much wider.An actual pipe weld has equal heat dissipation [balanced], on both sides, as do pipe-welder tests.You do not have this, so your weld is effected by this difference.     Balancing the heat-sink towards an actual pipe-joint will improve your control.Opus