My first stick welds, comments?

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So these are my first ever stick welding attempts, used to do some MIG a few years ago.Was hoping I could get some feedback, also what settings would you use?First details:Metal is some scrap Mazda 3 control arms. 1/8" steel painted and a tad grimy, brushed some spots but I'm aware I could have cleaned it better.Used 6013 rods (a bit thick for the application, they are 1/8 rods) and DCEP setup.Remember, first EVER be gentle but honest lolThink my best weld is the one on the rightThinking this was a bit too cold or I moved too fast I was doing a forward then back movement and made those divotsThese are in no particular order some early tries, some after I got comfortable, also a few rosettes with the round one at the top being my best I think (filled in existing holes on the arm)KevinLast edited by teknics; 12-03-2012 at 02:12 PM.
Reply:Not to bad, keep at it!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Post up some info on the type of machine you are using, this may help someone to give you some settings to try.
Reply:For first time beads, those look great.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Thanks for the comments. I kept at it last night, this time I used 1/8" 7018 rods. Just kept laying beads. Here's another pic of my first t-joint (think that's what type it is)Btw I'm using a longevity 256pi (I know, I know but we all start somewhere)Trying to get some nice fresh metal instead of this scrap
Reply:Side view (I'm just winging this BTW so even tips on the shape of the weld is appreciated)
Reply:When doing a fillet with a drag rod you have to determine how high up on the vertical plate you have to point the rod to make a good 45 degree angle weld.  Usually you have to angle the rod somewhat higher on the vertical plate and let the metal flow down a bit.In the alternative you can work your toes more.  Move the rod up against the vertical plate in a side to side motion as you weld.  Right toe, left toe.  Don't whip it, just gently move it.  This establishes your toe lines, and leads to good wet in and penetration at the toes.  It also makes the welds look good.  A straight drag, depending on gravity to form the bead, takes quite a bit of practice and developed skill, and it doesn't always accomplish the job.  Just do a very gentle weave as you drag.Even though you don't see any side to side motion in the weld, there is a gentle side to side motion from vert to horiz plate while smoothly dragging the rod.  It's all about puddle control WHICH MEANS YOU HAVE TO ACTUALLY SEE THE PUDDLE.  Differentiate the molten metal from the slag, and you've got it made.The nice straigt line at the toes is made possible by creating undercut with the side to side motion, then allowing the metal to fill it.  The undercut made by the arc establishes the line, and retains the metal when it's filled, giving a nice crisp line as well as a mechanically sound weld with good penetration.  It's hard to explain, but this is the best I can do.  Remember that this occurs within milliseconds, and in a space only as wide as the bead.  Hand eye coordination, and muscle memory.  You'll develop it with time"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Thanks farmersamm for those great tips, ill give a shot at applying them in my next welds.Looking at your weld, should I be aiming for a smooth bead with slight ripples? I've been going with a move forward and then push back type of motion so far to get the larger ripple that you see in my weld, if I should aim for a smooth small ripple look Ill be sure to focus on that also
Reply:It is best to stay in the puddle with 7018... slight side to side movement is ok, no "whip and pause" though. Not bad for first welds!Miller Bobcat 250Miller Multimatic 200 Miller & 3M PPEHobart electrodesDeWaltz toolsPT standsVictor MD torchRadnor HD  torch
Reply:Thanks ironwill, I feel I'm getting the hang of it, need to finish my workspace and get a nice table Is "whip and pause" what I've been doing by going forward then pushing back? When is that used? On 6013 or only specific situations? So 7018 I should stay in the puddle, slight movement and aim for a smooth flat bead with slight ripples?
Reply:Yep, smooth uniform ripples is what your looking for with 7018. Farmersam's7018 bead up  there is about as purty as they get.. Whip and pause is a technique used with fast freeze electrodes such as 6011 6010 6013 etc.Miller Bobcat 250Miller Multimatic 200 Miller & 3M PPEHobart electrodesDeWaltz toolsPT standsVictor MD torchRadnor HD  torch
Reply:With 6010/6011 (or 70, 80, etc) a whip makes a lot of sense, as there is minimal slag so you can go back without getting slag inclusions. edit: a whip is where you're moving forward/back along the length of the weldWith all other stick rods, you're better off never moving backwards. That leaves two basic techniques: a stringer bead - where you go in a straight line - and a weave bead - where you move back and forth. When I say back and forth, I mean pretend you're repeating an upper case N, then going down to start another one, and repeating. In most cases, I tend to do a fairly narrow weave, just enough to get good tie-in at the toes. To be honest: your welds are amazing for a beginner. Some of the left ones in your first image don't look so great - I'm sure you can tell that though - and your fillet weld looks like you were going a little fast. When your bead looks too much like a V it indicates that you're moving too quickly. Overall you're doing great, you're likely a better weldor than I am. I always find it useful to ask for advice from other people though, as I find it hard to see what I'm doing wrong as everything I do has to be near perfect, right?Lincoln 175HD
Reply:Ironwill: ok ill aim for nice and smooth with 7018Slotard: thanks for breaking it down to easier to understand terms.The welds to the left in that first pic were my very first ones (also the welds holding the plate to the control arm, which were horrible) then I adjusted the machine a bit and it was easier to lay the bead. Thanks for the compliments, much appreciated, but I've got tons to learn just wish there were more videos to watch I picked up some 3"x36" 3/16" hot rolled flat bar last night so I can cut some coupons and try welding nice clean metal. I also picked up some 3/32" 7018. Which rod to use on 3/16"? I have 3/32 and 1/8
Reply:Whip and pause is 6010 6011 7010 etc rods only. Do not whip and pause with 6013.  6013 is a drag rod,JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeWhip and pause is 6010 6011 7010 etc rods only. Do not whip and pause with 6013.  6013 is a drag rod,
Reply:Originally Posted by slotard... When your bead looks too much like a V it indicates that you're moving too quickly....
Reply:Also see Rick V's stick welding class thread.  Lots of good info in that thread..Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by Rick VIMO, it looks like you are running rather 'Hot' - too many amps.Too much amperage, too much tilt angle on the rod and you will get that <<<< pattern.With too much amperage, you really can't slow down or the weld flows too wide.Try reducing your amperage, moving slower and reduce rod tilt angle.  You should be closer to obtaining a (((((( patternIMO
Reply:You last beads with the 7018 were run too fast. When you see that V shape to the ripples, it means you need to slow down some. Also it looks like you have a bit too much material concentrated on the lower plate. The bead should form roughly a 45 deg angle when done. If not you need to adjust your "aim" and rod angle to get that 45 deg angle.7018 1/8" should roughly be run at about 125 amps. That's a bit much for material as thin as you are using for newer welders. I'd recommend going to 1/4" or heavier material if you want to run 1/8" rods to learn with. We use 3/8" material for teaching stick and have the students set the machines at 125 for 1/8" 7018. 3/32" is a better choice for material less than 1/4" That's not to say you can't weld 1/8" with 1/8" rods, just that it takes more control to compensate for the added heat and many newer students have issues with this.Slag that's hard to remove could also come from not keeping your arc length correct if your amps are close. I did a good example thread for Rick V called "stick for Rick" where I showed just how simply changing the arc length changed the way the slag came off and how the bead looked. 7018 will tell you when you have your rod angle, arc length, travel speed and amps right for a certain thickness of material. The slag will simply curl right up behind you or just flake off if you lightly drag the hammer over it. 7014 and 6013 will also do the same thing. I find most students have a bit more trouble with 6013 then they do with 7014 or 7018 for some reason. All are drag rods, though some 7018's prefer a bit more arc length than simply dragging the flux on the material..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYou last beads with the 7018 were run too fast. When you see that V shape to the ripples, it means you need to slow down some. Also it looks like you have a bit too much material concentrated on the lower plate. The bead should form roughly a 45 deg angle when done. If not you need to adjust your "aim" and rod angle to get that 45 deg angle.7018 1/8" should roughly be run at about 125 amps. That's a bit much for material as thin as you are using for newer welders. I'd recommend going to 1/4" or heavier material if you want to run 1/8" rods to learn with. We use 3/8" material for teaching stick and have the students set the machines at 125 for 1/8" 7018. 3/32" is a better choice for material less than 1/4" That's not to say you can't weld 1/8" with 1/8" rods, just that it takes more control to compensate for the added heat and many newer students have issues with this.Slag that's hard to remove could also come from not keeping your arc length correct if your amps are close. I did a good example thread for Rick V called "stick for Rick" where I showed just how simply changing the arc length changed the way the slag came off and how the bead looked. 7018 will tell you when you have your rod angle, arc length, travel speed and amps right for a certain thickness of material. The slag will simply curl right up behind you or just flake off if you lightly drag the hammer over it. 7014 and 6013 will also do the same thing. I find most students have a bit more trouble with 6013 then they do with 7014 or 7018 for some reason. All are drag rods, though some 7018's prefer a bit more arc length than simply dragging the flux on the material.
Reply:Here you go...http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=58537.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Ok had some time to practice:3/32" 7018, 3/16" hot rolled steelThis I thought was a good fillet passThe next bead I put down, I thought this was really nice, I used the "N" pattern someone mentioned beforeThe profileCouple of flatsBunch of flatsI tried to focus on keeping it slow, smooth bead, watching the puddle to keep it round, and trying to find the right amperage.Flat beads were mostly 85-95 ampsFillets at 100 amps (had a hard time striking an arc any lower)So improved or no?
Reply:IMO the bead pattern looks better.Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:DSW- Thank you for posting the link to your demonstration thread.
Reply:Wish I could quit my job to stay home and weld all day