6G TIG welding 6" Steel Pipe

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As stated in my intro post I began working on my 6G TIG pipe certification. Just wanted to post my progress and get any input yall may have.This is done on a Miller scratch start rig. I ran the tacks at 85 the root at 90 and the hot pass at 100 even. Im using 1/8 high carbon steel filler rods.Here is a pic of the pipe after the first tack-Close-up of the first tack-Finished with the root pass-Thats as far as i got it today. Tomorrow i will put one hot pass in it then ill switch to SMAW for the fill and cap passes using 7018 electrodes. More pics and progress continues
Reply:Who cares about the outside, lets see the inside!Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Not bad. Is there a landing on your bevel? What's your gap? Why are you switching to stick after the hot pass? Free hand or walking the cup?
Reply:just from looking I'd say you need to go up about 20 on your root, that looks like a 1/8th gap, you'll need some heat to get the bead in good with a 1/8th wire. you'll need enough heat to where you can push that wire into the puddle without it getting stuck. Personally, I would use a 5/32 gap.I always turn up at least 25 for the hot pass. Most people don't use a land for TIG root, unless you're in Louisiana.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hoosier_WelderNot bad. Is there a landing on your bevel? What's your gap? Why are you switching to stick after the hot pass? Free hand or walking the cup?
Reply:Looks good. I like to run a few  amps higher for the root. Going to use 3/32 or 1/8 7018? Next time try to keep the arc strikes in the bevel, or you can run the arc up the filler and snap out.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Gonna use 3/32" E7018s for the hot and cap passes. Those arc strikes are killing me to, had a real problem with them when i was running 6010 roots on this same pipe. Just something i have to learn to control.
Reply:FowlMouth I'm not a real Tig weldor, but play one on the Internet! For walking the cup, I bevel my cups on a fine grinding wheel, use an 80-grit sanding pad on the pipe bevels, and a mil file on the outside edge so the cup slides real easy. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I do hit up the bevels with a soft pad grinding wheel to get em nice and smooth. But you actually grind down your cup? If so thats interesting. Ive been using a #6 cup up till now. Is that an adequate size or would you reccomend something different?
Reply:I use a #6, sometimes a #7. I prep the pipe with 37 1/2 degree bevels, knife edge, 3/32-inch gap, 1/8-inch filler for the root, anywhere from 90 to 100-amps. For the hot pass, 3/32-inch filler, and try to never increase the amps more than 10. Suck back can wreck a nice root pass! This is the inside of a 5-G weld. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:#4 - #8 just depends on the groove and how you want to do it. #8 is good if you are going to walk the cup for all passes, makes a wide weave easy for the cap.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG