7018 Restrike:

admin

What do you guys do when you interupt a bead, or tack with 7018 to ease it's restrike ability to finish out the rod? I usually clamp a piece of scrap close to what I'm welding and smack the rod onto it then jump right back onto what I'm needing to weld before it cools too much. Kind of wondering if there is something easier?Thanks,SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:I have hear of 3 tips: slinging the slag off the end of the rod as soon as you finish a weld, using a brick to bang the tip of the rod on before restriking, or using a file (non-grounded) to remove that slag.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Pinch the end to break the slag off.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:I am in the long time habit of pinching off the end right before a restart with my fingers. Generally after that a light tap on/in the joint and away we go.
Reply:Concrete bend and grind lol, side of chipping hammer, back of some annoying guys head as he walks by, or whatever else is readily available. I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeConcrete bend and grind lol, side of chipping hammer, back of some annoying guys head as he walks by, or whatever else is readily available.
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugPinch the end to break the slag off.
Reply:I either tap ahead of the weld, swipe on concrete, or swipe on file.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:I keep a red brick on the bench next to me.  It's just another tool.  I don't like files in my pocket on on the bench.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Depending on how the rods are running, pinch the end or swipe on the file.In a pinch, my beard stubble will knock most of it off  Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:This is all fine and dandy, but if you're doing code work, don't get caught doing any of these suggestions. Machines with hot start can really be a big help to guys who have a hard time starting a rod. Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPThis is all fine and dandy, but if you're doing code work, don't get caught doing any of these suggestions. Machines with hot start can really be a big help to guys who have a hard time starting a rod.
Reply:I tried pinching the end of both the 7/32nd, and 1/8th rod through tig gloves and was having difficulty. Wasn't really having good luck but was using 10+ year old rod with my overhead welding practicing to get it used up. I used a new can of 7018 for the trailer tongue repair and really didn't have too many problems, I did use the clamped scrap to bang on after each partial bead.I don't know what the term "hot start" means? My Hobart is DC only and readily strikes an arc with anything I've tried except 7018 until the end is banged against something after the first spark. A new rod runs great and steady though it's entire length if one doesn't stop for some reason. My other Hobart does exactly the same so discounted a machine fault. Thanks,SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPThis is all fine and dandy, but if you're doing code work, don't get caught doing any of these suggestions. Machines with hot start can really be a big help to guys who have a hard time starting a rod.
Reply:A lot of machine have hot start. My 1937 Idealarc 300 has it too. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:At work I'm always using a bernard style holder, so I tap the tip of the rod a couple times hard on the floor, or whatever non-grounded hard surface is handy.  If I'm at home using my tong style holder, I just pop the rod out and tap it on my table with my free hand.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeI am the king of rod waste, at work and at home. My buddy at work recently said jeesh you sure know when Mikes been on a job. The floor is covered with half used rods. In theory rods are not that expensive, so when it comes to 7018 even at home I hate scratching, tapping or taking a glove off to do anything unless im twisted up like a pretzel under a piece of equipment so I waste alot and go with a clean start every time, or at least as much as possible. If its a junk job/project thats a different story, but in general I blow through rods with no care. Thats just me though.
Reply:Had a welding instructor go through the scrap Ben once and divide the partly used rod up among us. Hate using other people's rod.
Reply:Back to the topic at hand.If I'm working in one spot at a table, a wood rasp is kept on the table. It sits on an old and torn welding glove. The wood rasp has little "metal mountains" that just require a tap to penetrate to bare metal and knock off the flux nub.If crawling on the ground, then a piece of concrete, a brick, or a rock is used. Hot start is great but sometimes it needs help.Lincoln AC buzzboxLincoln AC/DC buzzboxHobart 125EZ (110V flux-core)Everlast PA200 (stick)Everlast PA300 (stick)Everlast PP70 (plasma cutter)O/A outfitSeveral Metabo, Bosch, HF grinders set up differentlyMisc tools
Reply:Ben Franklyn gave us a large number of quotes we can improve our lives by using. There's a guy in Alaska who takes lots of pictures. Like Franklyn, he's so ugly he's never in them, He is brilliant though, He says "set it hot enough it won't stick, and go like H&ll." I'm sure I messed up the quote, but the wisdom shines through.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BBen Franklyn gave us a large number of quotes we can improve our lives by using. There's a guy in Alaska who takes lots of pictures. Like Franklyn, he's so ugly he's never in them, He is brilliant though, He says "set it hot enough it won't stick, and go like H&ll." I'm sure I messed up the quote, but the wisdom shines through.
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopJust what is that supposed to mean??
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPThis is all fine and dandy, but if you're doing code work, don't get caught doing any of these suggestions. Machines with hot start can really be a big help to guys who have a hard time starting a rod.
Reply:I just say f it 6011 is good enough for me.
Reply:Originally Posted by mikecwikI just say f it 6011 is good enough for me.Haha funny stuff. Im glued....at least till dinner is ready. Then snoozie time. 6011 is a great rod for blowing out jobs in a timely fashion when time is money and it still stronger than your base metal. Also left out root passes over junk.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshop6011 is for hobbyists.Aka, garage hacks who weld their broken lawn mower blades back together.
Reply:6010 is my choice.
Reply:I've never run too much 6010 or 6011, for some reason, and I don't know why we always had 7018 on the job.....................I've had really good luck with Hobart's 335A 6011. That stuff is childs play to run!Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by johnrbauer6010 is my choice.
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopJust what is that supposed to mean??
Reply:Originally Posted by storemanseems to resemble.  Shoe fit?
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshop6011 is for hobbyists.Aka, garage hacks who weld their broken lawn mower blades back together.
Reply:On a good day.
Reply:I know l have to use 7018 but don't like it. I like Lincoln 5p+ a good downhill rod with very little slag.
Reply:I have several methods to solve this little problem there slob. #1 At work nobody cares about arc strikes when we fix stuff so I flip hood down and start banging like a wood pecker on a rotten pine till I get fire and drag it to the weld joint.#2 When it is a paying job for me most of the time like weldermike I will grab a fresh one every time so I dont have to fight a start when twisted into some not happy position.#3 At the fab table give it a drag on the bottom side of the table, make sure there are no puppies or toddlers under the table.#4 Grab a 5p+ like johnrbauer said and get at it uphill or down.All things considered my favorite approach is to grab a fresh one every time.Last edited by KineticWeldingServic; 09-22-2014 at 08:53 PM.Reason: forgot somethingRanger 250 thick stuffHobart Handler 140 not thick stuffthe pane and oxy setup
Reply:You guys are just mean  Reminds of Waylon-Jennings The good ol boys.  At the end of the song 1:25 he saiz," Im a good ol boy, my momma loves me, but she dont understand why the keep showing my hands and not my face on TV".  You got good hands AK. They cant take that from you I mostly use 7018 cold but it warms to about 280F* whenever I strike an arc. Go figure? I learned the pinch the tip with gloves here on WW. I like it but will use a file, rock or fire brick whatever. The gloves just make the most sense IMHO. The whip doesnt work for me and would probly start a fire if it did.Im just a good ol boy and garage hack who likes 7018 and 6010. I even built my first weld bench using 7018 and 6010 on my AC only buzz box. Its holding up just fine and looks better than the one Im now using.
Reply:I have absolutely no desire to pinch it off or to touch the end of the electrode period. Maybe that would be fine if I removed it from the holder but that just seems like a extra step, maybe some of yall in the cooler areas dont have the liquid saturated conductive gloves that come free with every summer. I have been buzzed several times from wet gloves so for me touching the end of is a no go for me.Ranger 250 thick stuffHobart Handler 140 not thick stuffthe pane and oxy setup
Reply:I never imagined what I thought was such a simple question would garner such varied responses. I'm not much of a stick welder and am on a strong learning curve but it is seemingly only 7018 that I've noticed this restrike difficulty with, but I only use a limited amount and type of electrodes. I probably ran through 7-8 pounds of 7018 in 7/32, and 1/8th teaching myself after advice from this site on how to weld both overhead, and vertical up. I learned a lot from this little experience but it's been over 10 years since I used my G-213 welder and then just for buildup with 7014, and hardfacing when the mines were in operation here. The G-258 is a new to me unit and until this trailer tongue job came along was unproven, (to me). I now look at the machine with high regards as once you get it to singing, it does quite well. When I was under the tongue area of the trailer closing up the bottom of the tubes, at first I couldn't seem to get comfortable enough to carry a good steady arc for a bit. I wound up using 6010 to tack everything into place because of the restrike problem of the 7018. Practice I know but once into a good position that was moderately comfortable, and once a rod started burning, there really wasn't a lot of trouble to carry a nice bead the width of the 2" tube. I did need to play with the heat a little to "optimize" the puddle, or deposition. I figured about 15% heat reduction was about right for the underside welding compared to the verticals or flat horizontals.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Most of the time I just use 7018 on a roll. No restrike issues! i used to use lots of 6010, as I had a ton from the utility company, but most times now, I use 7018 if I am stick welding. I dont mess with restrikes too much, just grab another rod. Tacking is about the only time I restrike, and usually just strike it a little harder, otherwise tap it on the concrete.
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshop6011 is for hobbyists.Aka, garage hacks who weld their broken lawn mower blades back together.
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshopJust what is that supposed to mean??
Reply:Time for ALL hacks to unite  6010/6011 takes a little attention to detail.  Quite an art to make it look good.Good stuff for gappy fitup, good stuff for heavy metal, good stuff for rusty metal (rail car repair comes to mind), great stuff for sheet metal (just ask Don, seen him do 16ga with the stuff), good stuff when you don't have an O/A handy, and you need to punch a hole or do a rough cut."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:AND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  You get more rods per pound cause there's less of that nasty flux coating, thus allowing more rods to fit in a given box sizeNow, I'm just spitballin' here  Sure as this the Interweb, some dooood is gonna go out and count the rods in a tin "Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Or maybe it's like potato chips, "contents filled by weight, contents may settle" "Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:The trick for getting 7018 to restrike easily has to do with the way you've broken the previous arc.   If you do it to gently you end up with a ball of solidified slag stuck to the end of the rod that you have to hammer at to break off.  Which then often times results in your also breaking off some of the new, unused flux coating at the tip of the rod which in turn contributes to a rough restart because you don't have adequate shielding for the puddle at first.   But if you terminate your previous weld by snapping the arc off by flicking your wrist hard enough to sling the last drop of molten slag off before it can freeze to the end of the rod you only end up with a little rim of un-burnt flux that's highly friable and easily breaks off with a little pressure from your gloved thumb and forefinger.  This will leave you with just enough exposed core wire on the end of the rod to where it will easily and smoothly fire back off.   On a safety note...you need to take into account where the last bit of molten slag you flick off is going to end up.   Especially if you're in your garage where there's  likely to be more combustible material close by than there would be in a more industrial setting.   It can easily go 5 or more feet from where you're working.
Reply:Originally Posted by HT2-4956The trick for getting 7018 to restrike easily has to do with the way you've broken the previous arc.   If you do it to gently you end up with a ball of solidified slag stuck to the end of the rod that you have to hammer at to break off.  Which then often times results in your also breaking off some of the new, unused flux coating at the tip of the rod which in turn contributes to a rough restart because you don't have adequate shielding for the puddle at first.   But if you terminate your previous weld by snapping the arc off by flicking your wrist hard enough to sling the last drop of molten slag off before it can freeze to the end of the rod you only end up with a little rim of un-burnt flux that's highly friable and easily breaks off with a little pressure from your gloved thumb and forefinger.  This will leave you with just enough exposed core wire on the end of the rod to where it will easily and smoothly fire back off.   On a safety note...you need to take into account where the last bit of molten slag you flick off is going to end up.   Especially if you're in your garage where there's  likely to be more combustible material close by than there would be in a more industrial setting.   It can easily go 5 or more feet from where you're working.
Reply:I was welding some 1-1/2 3/16 square tube the other day with 7018...  What a PITA stopping to clean the rod end to re-strike. It got me thinking...(scary).   What about an electric "rod grinder"???   I am going to grab a cheep little Harbor Fright bench grinder and rig up a guide to poke the rod into; sort of like an electric pencil sharpener.   I would keep the grinder running at a slow speed and near my work so I don't have to move very far to grind a rod.   I wouldn't take the rod out of the holder to do this.  I could just reach over and give the rod a quick poke; and start welding; time is money.
Reply:Billdacat, thats a good idea but not the electric grinder part. I thought of a non conductive pencil sharpener just for 7018 that could be approved for code work. Something you could carry in your pocket.
Reply:Just use a sidecutter or MIG pliers.