Deck over trailer

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What sort of gap do you guys think is reasonable for a deck over trailer in between the deck it self and the tire? I've seen a few with very minimal distance and a few with 6 or more inches.Theres going to be a decent amount of weight on this trailer at all times and I'm using two 6000 pound axels but will not have near that amount of weight on it. So I guess the question would be how much does an average trailer axel leaf spring give you when it compresses if you will?
Reply:Follow this link and click on ask the expert. There is a lot of good help from these folks. I'm thinking what you want to do a four inch underside clearance is required to provide adequate impact jounce clearance to the bottom of the trailer deck. This why there is a steel plate over the tire and not lumber to give additional clearance yet keep the deck as low as possible. http://www.redneck-trailer.com/SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:I would think the distance between the top of the axle and the frame plus a couple of inches should do it.  DanManipulator Of Metal
Reply:There are actually formulas for that measurement but I can't put my hands on them now. I when I built mine I used Redneck and built as per their design using Dexter parts vendored by them. The service is free too.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:What you are asking about is how much does the spring compress with a static load plus the shock load of hitting an obstacle at speed. Don't forget to think about the ground clearance of the tail of the trailer, especially if you use the trailer off road, cross curbs, or go up steep drives. Good luck with your build.
Reply:Tire diameter is your first consideration.  Find the diameter online from any tire manufacturer.  Tire diameters will vary with tire size, and load range.Next.......Using 6000lb axles means you'll be using slipper springs with a beam type center equalizer.  Quite simply,,,,,,the axle travel is limited by the equalizer.  The equalizer will hit the frame at the end of it's travel.  This is the limit of upward wheel travel.  Axle to frame clearance is not a real consideration with most setups, unless you go stupid, and use hangers that are too short.  Offhand, not knowing your tire size, desired deck height, and other structural considerations....this would be a good suspension setup http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Susp...ne/APT6SE.htmlSpring compression..........Trailer springs MIGHT compress about 1 1/2" under a full load, although it's very rare.  Trailer springs are much much stiffer than truck springs.  They don't give much, so don't get all worked up about it, and design something ridiculous.  Trailer springs are designed to maintain a nominal deck height even when loaded.Set your equalizer on your bench, mounted to the center equalizer hanger.  Measure the distance between the equalizer end, and the bench, with the equalizer level.  This is the distance the wheel will travel.  Add about 3" or less (I'm set up at around 2.5") and you have the dimensions you need to build the trailer to."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I can't stress enough the difference in tire sizes.  A 16" tire is not a 16" tire is not a 16" tire.  MAKE SURE YOU BUILD TO THE TIRE SIZE YOU'RE USING."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:So once I figure out tire diameter, I will be using that to figure out what I need to make my Hangers at to leave me enough room? Also, is it necessary to use slipper springs. I know they hold weight better but they ride a bit ruffer and are harsher on my wallet. Double eye 6000 pound springs are cheaper.
Reply:I've never seen a commercially built trailer in the 12,000gvw range with double eye springs, but I guess it's your choice.  A standard APT5 hanger kit will hold up to 7,000lb axles according to this http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Susp...xter/APT5.html  Personally, I wouldn't choose this suspension, but..............I have the identical suspension kit under my trailer (7000gvw), and I'm stacked to 16 1/2" deck-to-axle clearance with 15" tires.  Average 16" tire runs between 30-31+ inches.  15" tire will run about 28+ inches.  Add 2" to your stack, and you ought to be ok.You're really not saving much money by using the double eye configuration.  Maybe $100Only thing I've ever had against slipper springs is their tendency to wear the slipper pads unevenly due to the outrageously cambered axles offered by suppliers.  Dexter has the most insane camber.  Rockwell American has a more reasonable camber.  Anyways...over time you'll get corresponding wear in the APT5 system with cambered axles.  It's the nature of trailer suspensions.  Class 8 trucks will show the same wear patterns with slipper springs, although to a lesser degree due to less camber on the axles.I have nothing against cambered axles per se, but a mild camber is generally adequate.  Straight axles are crap, and sag under load."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Ok, well I have had a bit of a change of plans and am now stuck with a set of 3500 pound axels and leafs. I'm still putting the deck on the trailer just a different design. But with how I have it right now I'm only getting 2in or so of clearance. And I am worried that, that will not be enough, but I also do not want to have to jack it to the sky and have the trailer sitting way up in the air. But it seams that is my only option is a lift kit of sorts? Attached Images
Reply:Your deck over looks a lot like mine in its first days.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ler&highlight=old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:What was the distance from the bottom of your deck to the top of your tire. I'm to the point to where I'm going to have to lift it wich I want to avoid or get smaller tires. I'm calling it a deck over but in all reality it's just going to be a utility bed sitting on top of the frame but it's easier to explain it as a deck over. But with the utility box on top of the trailer it will make it hard to get into if I make it much higher
Reply:Are those drop axles that you're rolling over? Just askin."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:I'm running approximately 2.5" clearance with no problems when loaded.  My deck height is 31 inches or so.If you're worried about clearance, add something to the bottom of the frame where the hangers will attach to shim it up.To determine the travel limit on your suspension simply jack one axle up to the point where the wheel won't go any further upwards without lifting the trailer on the equalizer.  This will be the practical limit of travel you're facing.  Shim to raise the frame if necessary.  Again, remember that trailer springs won't compress much under load.I pushed the limit on this one, and it's been ok so far.  I anticipated trouble changing tires, and allowed for enough clearance between the tire and side rail so that the tire could be easily tilted to change/mount it on the axle.  As you can see.......the tires are clearly up inside the deck crossmembers (3" channel).  This gives you an idea how tight I'm running"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Dunno how long you've actually looked at threads here, but you might want to check this out http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...=trailer+rehab  It was completed before your join date.I put up with a lot of crap on this one, let's hope it doesn't start again.  My moron tolerance is at low ebb these daysLast edited by farmersamm; 10-14-2014 at 11:58 PM."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:If those are indeed drop axles, you're going about it wrong.  You need to build a box to raise the frame.  Something similar to what you'll see in my thread.I don't believe you should reverse drop axles."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by DanD78I would think the distance between the top of the axle and the frame plus a couple of inches should do it.  Dan
Reply:Yes they are drop axels, wich I have never done or seen them flipped like I plan, but for right now I'm going to have to make do. I dont intend to travel more than a few miles down the road with this trailer a few times a year , and I live in a very rural area.  But if I were to travel often down a busy road I can't say that it's the best idea.Dont want to put anyone at danger by a stupid idea.
Reply:Thank you farmersamm I plan on doing just that and we'll if it's higher than I'd like I'll buy a dam step stool. Just would hate to only have 2 inches of clearance get it all welded up and get it loaded and have it skiding on the tires.
Reply:Originally Posted by flashflood394What was the distance from the bottom of your deck to the top of your tire. I'm to the point to where I'm going to have to lift it wich I want to avoid or get smaller tires. I'm calling it a deck over but in all reality it's just going to be a utility bed sitting on top of the frame but it's easier to explain it as a deck over. But with the utility box on top of the trailer it will make it hard to get into if I make it much higher