What welder is this?

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Drove past this welder this morning, stopped in later to buy it. The owner said his friend gave it to him before he died. Said it welded really good and swore by it. The casing was damaged so he made his own. He added a 120 volt receptacle onto the side, must have wired it from the fan? Came with a 20 foot stinger lead with an older Bernard short stub, 10 foot ground lead, Fiberglass fibre metal hood, cutting goggles with a cheater lens, wet box of 6013, a chipping hammer head and right hand glove. $20 bucks. In not going to do anything with the welder since its so rusty inside and the cord is in rough shape, just wanted the leads and antique helmet.Anyone recognise this thing by its innards? How old is that helmet?Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:I just realized I didn't get a good pic of the lid, ill be backNothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:No clue on the welder but the helmet type was common in the 1960's through the 1970's. I have a couple new in the box and they are kinda heavy by today's standards, but will hold up to repeated abuse seemingly forever. The headgear will last a lot longer than anything produced these days.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:Like slob said, I don't have a clue. I'd assume its only a/c, possibly a sears/roebuck. Usually a store brand would come with its own wheels attached to it like this one. I'd almost be willing to bet it welds as long as the fan works.The helmet looks like an old Jackson, I've got one in my collection it's indestructible.Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Looks a bit like the Union Carbide welder in the Checkpoint Charlie Museum in Berlin.
Reply:Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:Sad to say the head gear is broke, good for parts though. maybe ill pull it out of the scrap pile, I don't see a rheostat, or screw to adjust the shunt. I bet anything the shunt is seized. it has some wood jammed in there for some reason, he said something about checking the amps with a stick?!?Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:Originally Posted by Doug247Sad to say the head gear is broke, good for parts though. maybe ill pull it out of the scrap pile, I don't see a rheostat, or screw to adjust the shunt. I bet anything the shunt is seized. it has some wood jammed in there for some reason, he said something about checking the amps with a stick?!?
Reply:Clean up and weld looks fine .
Reply:Had a chance to throw a plug on this beast. My brother, the electrician was out for a late thanksgiving. He robbed a plug from a heater and took it back off once the test was over. The casing on the power cable is in poor shape and scary so it will get a new cable and plug before I use it again.   Here is the result. It welded super cold with a 3/32 6013. Everything I could do to make it weld was pull a long arc and make it drip onto the plate lol. After a few beads it ran better, but after so long it would cut out, so im thinking I was getting close to the duty cycle  limit. My brother gauged the welding amps at 90, not sure what the ocv and welding voltage was, thought he said 24 or 28 when I was welding. I was surprised how quiet this unit was, the fan and while I was welding.Now im set on trying to change the amperage, My brother said the more centred the iron core the higher the amperage. I cant seem to get the sucker to move. Shot some penetrating lube down there. Any helpful insight?Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:With movable-shunt transformers, the current is lowest when the shunt is directly between the windings, and highest when the shunt is completely outside the space between windings. Some shunts have the iron laminations in a plastic carrier so it may be hard to tell which is which.Some welders have a crank that moves the shunt, some have a system of levers moved by a handle. I can't tell by your pics which type it is but generally, lubricate all the moving parts of the shunt mechanism and apply "persuasion" as necessary to get it moving.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps