6010 drag vs whip an pause on pipe

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I'll make it short an sweet simple as the title, I'm a local welding school attendee bout 3 semester, I'm working on smaw pipe welding its 6" sch 80 7"-8" in coupons in the 5g, miller XMT 304. amps I run at 75-80. My instructor says I should be doing a whip an pause around the pipe however I'm not as comfortable as I am dragging, anyone else use more or less a drag technique on there root pass? An if so what amperages? I trust my instructor but I'm just trying to figure out if it's a viable technique to learn or quit while I'm ahead
Reply:Fast freeze electrodes like 6010 are made for whip and pause. It gives you the ability to burn in a good puddle and deposit filler then jump out and let it cool. Only time I've ever run 5p dragging the root was downhill welding. I don't know where you are, but USA generally frowns on downhill welds.Teach Ag Mech - Mike At Home:Lincoln Electric AC225Miller Challenger 172Gas AxeWork:eclectic bunch of 90's vintage blue boxes
Reply:Look inside, then make up your mind what works best.Lincoln Electric:Ranger GXT 250SA-200LN-25Pro MiG 256Pro Mig 180Esab CV 251Invertec 160Victor Torches”
Reply:Whipping is for the birds. If you can get the job done dragging that is what I would do.
Reply:I think you'll find most real pipe welders drag their root. But a lot of them run their root down hill too. Far as cap welds, I've played with running 6010 like 7018. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I may have to try dragging the root thenTeach Ag Mech - Mike At Home:Lincoln Electric AC225Miller Challenger 172Gas AxeWork:eclectic bunch of 90's vintage blue boxes
Reply:First must confirm we're talking uphill.  Amperage and drag or whip depends on your gap and landing and wall thickness.  Hear a lot of welders with nickel/nickel will drag at 90 and up amps.  I try for snug 1/8" gap and land at around 70 amps.  At this heat , make my start, drag till see approx. 3/16" light red colour behind keyhole, then carry on with approx. 1/8" length 'whip'.  Thus a combination drag and whip.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldSparksFirst must confirm we're talking uphill.  Amperage and drag or whip depends on your gap and landing and wall thickness.  Hear a lot of welders with nickel/nickel will drag at 90 and up amps.  I try for snug 1/8" gap and land at around 70 amps.  At this heat , make my start, drag till see approx. 3/16" light red colour behind keyhole, then carry on with approx. 1/8" length 'whip'.  Thus a combination drag and whip.
Reply:I was taught your land and gap should be same but it can depend on the individual. I like to do a very slight whip just so I keep the keyhole going and I can hear the root going in. Some other guys would drag the rod but I think everything has to be perfect for that to work going uphill. I think a slight whip and being able to see a keyhole gives more control if your fit up isn't perfect. The one thing I remember the instructors saying is not to change your technique right before the big test just because another guy's technique works for him. Pipelines are almost exclusively downhand using a drag technique when done by hand. A lot of amps too.
Reply:My guess is, when it comes to doing this on the job, you'll be good at all the techniques above.  Your fit ups aren't always going to be what you want for economical reasons,  so you'll be compensating for that the way you weld it.    I don't like to drag, and only do it when things are to tight.    I feel safer about the tie in on both sides w/ a little movement.    When I have the ideal uphill setup, its, a small clockwise circular motion.   I like excaliburs answer though,
Reply:A helpful trick member here pipe fitter told me about. When getting ready to stop, while doing your root pass. Is punch the rod through the pipe. This gives you a nice keyhole, for your tie in on the restart. Now if I could only remember to do it each time!  Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I find dragging is best for downhand and rollwelding . In position uphand I find a slight whip and pause is good but don't let your keyhole get bigger than your rod diameter or you could get internal undercut . Severe x ray picks up on that then your screwed
Reply:I was taught the whip and pause method and as far as I know it gets better penetration
Reply:Learn how to do both. Stepping in the bead works great for bad fits or to see the key hole. I use both drag and whip. Just depends in the fit. If I have my choice it's a nickel land and gap and drag it in at about 125 to 145 amps. I use 5/32 unless it's jammed up then I'll use 1/8.  Up or down it doesn't really matter just Chang your heat a little one way or the other. It's all about pressure and speed when dragging. As for the USA frowning on downhill that's the funniest thing I have heard. Most plant work it up hill but pipeline is down hill 100k miles of mainline that are all down hand. pipeline would laugh you offThe ROW stepping your root in. Takes to long. As for better root penetration I don't think it makes a difference if you are good at either technique.