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I have a DeWalt chop saw that I use to cut my steel with. I dont do heavy material; just home projects - nothing more than 0.5 inch thick really. Also I'm usually cutting mild steel.My problem is that with the 14" wheels that you're supposed to put on the thing, it takes forever to cut something without bogging the motor down. So I've resorted to buying a 12" wheel with the idea I'd get a little more torque for the same power. This seems to work pretty well. A 10" wheel would probably do great!So do I have a piece of garbage motor or does everyone have this issue with larger cutting wheels (14")?Thanks-my Dad is "Jose" so I guess it follows I'm Hose B...My play tools:1. an old Lincoln tombstone older than I am2. a little Lincoln wire feeder3. and my Dad's Pipeliner that's older than he is...
Reply:No - it's the procedure with how you cut. Run a search, another member inquired about this and we gave him some ideas on what to do to make the cutting better.John - fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!- bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Here : http://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread...highlight=chopJohn - fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!- bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Yep, it's kinda counter-intuitive. Most tools you kinda take it easy and let the tool do it's job. Chopsaws are different.Miller EconotigCutmaster 38Yes ma'am, that IS a screwdriver in my pocket!
Reply:Thank you for the help guys. Does the heat of the cut get maintained better if I apply a little more feed pressure? After reading that other thread, I think I understand better now. It does seem counterintuitive. I always want to go easy on a motor - maybe too easy.-my Dad is "Jose" so I guess it follows I'm Hose B...My play tools:1. an old Lincoln tombstone older than I am2. a little Lincoln wire feeder3. and my Dad's Pipeliner that's older than he is...
Reply:Hose B,Heck I've probably thrown away a half dozen 10" wheels in the last year. They started life as 14" wheels but didn't stay that diameter long. Steady, constant pressure is the trick for chop saws. Too light in the pressure category and glazing of the wheel is a problem.Go to the thinnest blade available. The 1/8" thick blade is hard on the machine.I finally broke down and bought a cold cut saw. Still have the chop saw for rebar and junk material.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Anything over 3/16" thick will be hard on a chopsaw. They are mostly designed for light gage hollow shapes. Some of the Dewalts are intended for metal stud work and not for use on mill shapes. Check your model. There are many different grades and specifications on chop saws. I use a 10"X3/32" wheel with a 5/8" arbor size on a 7" side grinder for heavy cutting. I cut 4X5.8 channel like it is nothing and a blade lasts a long time if I watch what I am doing.<disclaimer: Don't try this at home! I was just making the point about the motor on a chop saw. I have a hard time choking the grinder down but not the chop saw.Last edited by mooseye; 12-10-2007 at 11:39 PM.SA200,Ranger8,Trailblazer251NT,MM250,Dayton225AC,T D-XL75,SpoolMate3545SGA100C,HF-15-1 RFCS-14 When I stick it, it stays stuck!
Reply:There are 1000's of different grades of wheels, that will make the difference in a cut. An off the shelf, might not be the correct wheel. Can you tell us the type of wheel you have. A 24 T or something like that. JohnSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases. There all here. : |
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