Dry saw clamp

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Quick easy clamp for dry saw. I just tig welded 2 pcs. of angle iron together, works great. It's less wear on the carbide blade when you cut on a corner, not on the flat side of the metal. Having the saw blade sharpened about twice a year is a pain, but the dry saw is way better than my old abrasive chop saw(sparky). Made about 30 cuts on some 2 inch 0.090 wall square tube for an upcoming project. All went well, clamp held tight and the pipe didn't come flying out of the saw. Attached Images
Reply:works good, I like it. Attached Images
Reply:I like it a lot ZZweld, I think I will copy it for my abrasive chop saw.But do you really need to clamp the rectangular tube like that for the blade saw?I thought only abrasive saws clogged when cutting on a flat surface.Telwin Force 165 InverterDewalt abrasive chop saw
Reply:This is definitely a copy for me...good job. Attached Images
Reply:Not clogged, but there isn't enough pressure on the carbide teeth for it to dig in, so it scrapes. That makes a bunch of heat Originally Posted by latzamanI like it a lot ZZweld, I think I will copy it for my abrasive chop saw.But do you really need to clamp the rectangular tube like that for the blade saw?I thought only abrasive saws clogged when cutting on a flat surface.
Reply:Great idea! Will copy for use on my jet....POVERTY...is the Mother of InventionMillermatic 211Millermatic 140Miller Thunderbolt XLArcOne 100STS inverter w/TIGThermal Dynamics 38XL Victor Oxy/AcetyleneJancy Slugger Holemaker IIJet 5x6 BandsawNever enough time & sleep.
Reply:If you simply adjust the fence forward or backward it changes how the saw contacts to work piece so that it does not comes down square against the lat part of the tube.
Reply:Nice idea!Tagged saw"Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:That's cool. When i used my 6190 saw daily, I was mostly cutting 45's but that little tool you built would have been a quick and easy thing to throw in the vise for cutting short pieces of 2x2 90's. Pre cutting 20' sticks, you'd want to make a spacer that would support the opposite end of the material that matched the height of the material while clamped in your widget.That widget would really help when cutting 2x2 and 3x3 square tubing cause the blade hits the material in the flat with that saw. you dont need that widget when cutting 1.5x1.5 when you have the fence in the deepest position. The blade basically hits 1.5x1.5 in the same position as your widget.nice work! That tool will imporve the accuracy of your cuts provided you are accurately supporting the other end of the material being cut.
Reply:Nice design. I use a design similar to that 'cept I use 2 and mine has a single angle mounted to flatbar. I occasionally have to miter hundreds of 1/2" x 20' sq stock across the diagonal. I use a bandsaw.  I weld bundles and gang cut 9 at a time.  The reason for using flat bar is so I can adjust the clamp in the vise and allow the material to rest on the bottom of the saw deck.Have you  tried the hf blade sharpener.  I have one, it is still in the box after a yr.Last edited by tapwelder; 05-16-2013 at 09:24 AM.
Reply:The reason for this jig is because a carbide tipped dry saw blade lasts MUCH longer if you don't cut the square tubing across, rather at an angle. Less contact with the metal when cutting is a very good thing. I do this a lot. I think this jig is a great idea. I don't have one, so rather than using the jig, I use a 4 inch piece of 2 inch square and lay it at the fence, THEN put the piece that needs cutting after it. This causes the blade to hit the work at an angle rather than straight. I love my drycut saw. Its a Makita 12 inch and is leaps and bounds better than an abrasive. Good job on the jig!
Reply:That will work, looks like the insert that slides on the clamp of my evolution saw.PeterEquipment:2  old paws2  eyes (that don't look so good)1  bad back
Reply:NICE little saw buck ill make oneTO INVENT  YOU NEED A GOOD IMAGINATION  AND A  PILE OF JUNK'' - THOMAS EDISONMost Of The Time People Don't see The Quality of a Good Job Unitl they see a Bad Job !! -Scott Esplin
Reply:Originally Posted by DeveThe reason for this jig is because a carbide tipped dry saw blade lasts MUCH longer if you don't cut the square tubing across, rather at an angle. Less contact with the metal when cutting is a very good thing. !
Reply:Well, I made a few more cuts with the "W" clamp and it's time to get the blade sharpened. It's been about 6 months since it's been sharpened. The blade is leaving very small chips(almost powder). Squeezed a few more cuts out of it by making the "W" clamp. I've seen a similar clamp in the shape of a "K", I may make a few of those too.Anybody found a replacement Milwaukee Endurance 72 tooth dry cut blade? They go for $100.00 or more! Kind of expensive. I'd like to keep a back up sharp blade around. The fence/clamp on my Milwaukee saw moves a lot when you tighten your pc. in it. Angles are pretty far off. Thinking about completely redesigning the whole clamp/table for the saw. Unbolt the motor/blade/pivot arm assembly and start over with a better table/clamp. This has been  discussed on other threads as well as replacement blades. A wet saw is still too expensive for me right now, but I have to admit, my dry saw beats the heck out of my abrasive "old sparky". I recently picked up a Milwaukee deep cut porta band saw, thing works GREAT !!! Going to be making a nice small aluminum table/jig for the porta band(thread and pic's coming soon).@ walker: I'm a little hesitant about moving the fence/work pc. away from the blade to get the proper cutting angle. I like to keep the work as close to the pivot side of the blade as possible. That blade is spinning pretty fast and I don't want any sudden surprises with the saw blade exploding or spitting the work pc. out.@ tap welder: I have not tried the Harbor Freight saw blade sharpener.@ crabo: I don't think it will matter when cutting with a horizontal band saw. They are used more for cutting solid bar stock, either round, square or rectangular. Just clamp your pc. in, hit the start button, come back later, and it's done. I use my dry cut saw on thin metal or square/round pipe only. I found a small trick using a 2 inch spacer at the end of your work pc. against the stop(remember to add 2 inches on your measurement) and remove the spacer before cutting so the pc. falls away from the blade and doesn't bind up when it's threw cutting(see pic's). Note wood brace on left side of the saw for leveling the long work pc. being cut(see pic's). Thanks for the complements on the "W" clamp, feel free to copy it. I'm sure many people have made those before, but I did think of that myself. Always trying to think outside the box....ZZ... Attached Images