Walking the cup practice: Steel

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My friend who is in the pipe fitters union came by the other day to show me some walking the cup techniques. He made it look very easy and effortless. I soon found out that it takes quite a bit of concentration for a novice. But After a few tries I got the hang of it. I'm not saying I mastered it by any means. I used my Eastwood TIG 200 on 100 amps DC1.5% Lanth Tung 3/32Regular collet body with #5,6 and 7 cups1/16 ER70S-6Steel was grinded to about a 30 degree beveled edge with a 1/16 gapSo heres a few pics of my better attempts.Working on a flat piece is hard to get the edges looking nice.This is one of my more symmetrical onesI got quite a bit of undercutting going on here.I tried to get the edge of the puddle to just barely touch the edge but it didn't work so well. SO there you have it. Please critique. I'm looking forward to your comments. Thanks for stopping by.Eastwood TIG 200NAPA 83-315 MIG
Reply:You gotta clean your material MUCH better than that.You'll see....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I just started practicing my tig recently so take this with a grain of salt, but I was using 1/16 filler and was getting lots of undercut so I switched to 3/32 filler and that made a lot of difference filling in those edges.
Reply:Thanks for the comments guys. Zap do you mean clean ALL of the rust off of the entire piece? MisterB thanks for the suggestion I'll give it a try.Eastwood TIG 200NAPA 83-315 MIG
Reply:Emerald you are definatley on the right track, clean metal and acitone, goes a tremendous long way. Seems like your heat is good and your friend knows what he's talking about. Keep at it and clean that metal. You'll be killin it soon with some practice. I love screwing around so I just did this one for the thread, LOL on me, not clean but at least stainless with no corrosion. Can't afford to  waste any big scrap out of my junk pile for jobs  Attached ImagesI hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:What exactly is this technique for and when is it used? I was under the impression it was a crutch.Tim Beeker.
Reply:I should have added they look nice, and I need to try since my hands are not as steady as should be.Tim Beeker.
Reply:Originally Posted by tnjindWhat exactly is this technique for and when is it used? I was under the impression it was a crutch.
Reply:Hope this works, found the post.http://weldingweb.com/showpost.php?p...&postcount=159Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Why you using them little bitty wire?
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeEmerald you are definatley on the right track, clean metal and acitone, goes a tremendous long way. Seems like your heat is good and your friend knows what he's talking about. Keep at it and clean that metal. You'll be killin it soon with some practice. I love screwing around so I just did this one for the thread, LOL on me, not clean but at least stainless with no corrosion. Can't afford to  waste any big scrap out of my junk pile for jobs
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGWhy you using them little bitty wire?
Reply:Originally Posted by tnjindWhat exactly is this technique for and when is it used? I was under the impression it was a crutch.
Reply:Originally Posted by pat8703I do a lot of sealing face refurbishment for steam turbines in power plants.  I exclusively walk the rig on that kind of work because its much easier to get a flat bead with flat tie in.  Take these for example.  On stuff like this when machined, I am typically .020" from mill touchoff to 100% cleanup, and achieved 100% cleanup around .020-.025" above finished height.http://i.imgur.com/sE7EY.gifhttp://i.imgur.com/c7mPB.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/8XmZU.jpgSent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Reply:Inconel 625All ceramic.
Reply:wow those look great!Eastwood TIG 200NAPA 83-315 MIG
Reply:I tried some more walking the cup tonight. Same material. Cleaned a little better. I ground most of the rust off and wiped the edges with acetone. I know it should be cleaner but it was kind of crappy metal from the start.This one below was free hand. No walking the cup but the same figure 8 style movement.Eastwood TIG 200NAPA 83-315 MIG
Reply:Here's the truth! If you ever got into clean metal you would be dangerous!  Go from there! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Very nice overall. Your consistency on the edges needs some work. 1st pict it looks like the bottom edge is nice and even for the most part, but the top edge is inconsistent. That usually is a sign you are favoring one side of the joint vs the other and usually indicates a torch angle issue, and possibly a visibility issue.I'm also noting a great deal of inconsistency in your patterns. That's telling me you aren't moving the torch the same as you go along. The ends look like you've gone from a weave to almost a stringer, probably because you can't keep walking the torch the same way as you run out of material. You pattern spacing also changes dramatically throughout the bead as well.Free hand weave isn't too bad, but I'd like to see the motions tighter like you have on some when you are walking the cup. Swing side to side more rapidly and don't move forward quite as fast..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Get some clean steel and some bigger filler (3/32"-1/8") and practice some more, you are doing good already. With the bigger filler you don't have to feed into the puddle as fast and sometimes don't have to feed it at all, just walk over it. Looks like you may need to set the amps a little higher also, the end of the weld looks like the steel got too hot and got too fluid because of a slow travel speed.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Thanks welder mike I appreciate it!DSW; You hit the nail on the head.I do notice I am favoring one side. And Your right about the visibility. I'm a lefty so the edges that are decent looking are the ones toward me so I can see those pretty well and when I start to walk away I loose visibility of most of my arc and puddle which is probably why they are more inconsistant. Another problem is because of the crappy metal the cup gets hung up where the edge of my bevel meets the flat top of the metal. Or that could be operator error with the angle grinder on my part. Your right about the differnt patterns too. for the root im going side to side or "wiggling" the cup rather than walking it. Then for my next few passes I am using the figure 8 and putting my whole arm into the motion. Thanks for the compliments!Squirmy Pug: The main reason I use poor looking metal alot is because my FIL has a ton of it lying around his property. And thats were I do all of my welding so If I were to show up with nice pretty metal (which I would prefer to do, believe me.) he would look at it as a waste i guess.Eastwood TIG 200NAPA 83-315 MIG
Reply:Originally Posted by pat8703I do a lot of sealing face refurbishment for steam turbines in power plants.  I exclusively walk the rig on that kind of work because its much easier to get a flat bead with flat tie in.  Take these for example.  On stuff like this when machined, I am typically .020" from mill touchoff to 100% cleanup, and achieved 100% cleanup around .020-.025" above finished height.http://i.imgur.com/sE7EY.gifhttp://i.imgur.com/c7mPB.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/8XmZU.jpgSent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Reply:You could try a flap disk after the grinding to smooth it all out like butter for you, might solve the getting hung up bit. I see you guys tossing all these tig coupons on here and wish i had my own to play with
Reply:Well when I grind my beveled edge I start it with the flat part of the grinding disc then to speed it up a bit ill use the edge of the disc then ill smooth it out again with the flat side andRepeat this method until I get my desired edge but since the metal I used has all of those little gouges in it sometimes they will end up on my edge.  Go to tractor supply and get yourself some metal and make some coupons. These coupons I made were originally a leaf spring.Eastwood TIG 200NAPA 83-315 MIG