Drilling through asolid steel rod

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So I'm building a torch cart .And i bought i believe 5/8 solid steel rod for the axle part of the cart . But how do you drill a hole in the rod for a carter pin so the wheel will stay on the axle ? I'm  a experienced welder but i still have lots and lots to learn. The hole drilled will be 1/4 . But how do i do it with out a drill press. I was thinking using a center punch and a vice . ThanksMillermatic 211 with mvp plugs miller titanium series welding helmetstihl chain saws 8 ft welding table
Reply:Put the rod in a vice, file a small flat on the top then put you're center punch mark on the filed area the carefully drill your hole with a hand drill. You probably want to first drill the hole with a 1/8" drill before you go to the 1/4"Sent from my GT-S5690M using TapatalkLast edited by trouble007; 08-05-2012 at 11:17 PM._______________________OF COURSE I DON'T LOOK BUSY... I DID IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME
Reply:Use a drill press, clamp the rod and center punch it. 1/4" is WAAAYYYYY to big a hole for a cotter pin, try 1/8, or 3/16 at most. Just watch the circle the drill bit makes when you are starting to drill, it it is not the same on both sides of the hole you may need to rotate the rod slightly so that the hole goes straight through.
Reply:All the above advise has been good. Flat spot with file. Center punch. Drill in vise.Use some lubricant of some kind (cutting oil or liquid dish soap), this keeps the drill cool and helps with chip extraction. Keep your rpms down, with steel slower is better especially with a hand drill. You want two fairly continuous and even spiral chips. Too much pressure and you'll break the drill...  let the drill cut. Too many rpms will over heat the drill and dull it. Keep it cool.Here's a drill speed chart. With a hand drill I'd half the rpms to start. Charts are for rigid setups under ideal conditions but can be a handy reference.http://www.ollivier.nl/html/drillspeedchart.htm
Reply:Start with a good 1/16" bit (I've found Milwaukee to be pretty good and commonly available at the Big Box stores).  Beware cheap bits.  Lots of them in this size flex like rubber and break easily.  Go slow and pull the drill out often to clear out the chips.  Then step: 3/32" & 1/8".  If you don't start with the smaller sizes you will find that it's easy to totally dull the larger bit before you are half way through the axel.  Step drilling seems like a longer process initially but in the long run it's faster and keeps your bits sharp for much longer.
Reply:Sorry about replying to the "old" threads but the info contained in them is still good!
Reply:Originally Posted by ndr1968Start with a good 1/16" bit (I've found Milwaukee to be pretty good and commonly available at the Big Box stores).  Beware cheap bits.  Lots of them in this size flex like rubber and break easily.  Go slow and pull the drill out often to clear out the chips.  Then step: 3/32" & 1/8".  If you don't start with the smaller sizes you will find that it's easy to totally dull the larger bit before you are half way through the axel.  Step drilling seems like a longer process initially but in the long run it's faster and keeps your bits sharp for much longer.
Reply:As was said, be sure to clamp it instead of just holding it with your hand.  The bit might catch and snatch it right out of your hand doing many types of damage to you, the wall, etc.
Reply:Get a couple Self-Locking External Retaining Rings like they use on hand truck axles."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by ndr1968Start with a good 1/16" bit (I've found Milwaukee to be pretty good and commonly available at the Big Box stores).  Beware cheap bits.  Lots of them in this size flex like rubber and break easily.  Go slow and pull the drill out often to clear out the chips.  Then step: 3/32" & 1/8".  If you don't start with the smaller sizes you will find that it's easy to totally dull the larger bit before you are half way through the axel.  Step drilling seems like a longer process initially but in the long run it's faster and keeps your bits sharp for much longer.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumGet a couple Self-Locking External Retaining Rings like they use on hand truck axles.
Reply:hmm,am i the only one who thinks a 1/4 " hole would be huge for the required cotter key ?miller thunderbolt 250vlincoln square wave tig 175 prolincoln idealarc mig sp250everlast tig 210EXTeverlast power plasma 50chicago electric (hf) 130 tig/90 arcchicago electric 90 amp flux wire3 sets oxy/acet
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumGet a couple Self-Locking External Retaining Rings like they use on hand truck axles.
Reply:Originally Posted by boatbuoyhmm,am i the only one who thinks a 1/4 " hole would be huge for the required cotter key ?
Reply:Retaining rings - 50 for $4.61  Lowe's or Home Depot probably sells singles in their special hardware section.http://www.zoro.com/i/G1234992/?utm_...FewF7AodNjEALA"USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by stihl91So I'm building a torch cart .And i bought i believe 5/8 solid steel rod for the axle part of the cart . But how do you drill a hole in the rod for a carter pin so the wheel will stay on the axle ? I'm  a experienced welder but i still have lots and lots to learn. The hole drilled will be 1/4 . But how do i do it with out a drill press. I was thinking using a center punch and a vice . Thanks
Reply:Originally Posted by boatbuoyhmm,am i the only one who thinks a 1/4 " hole would be huge for the required cotter key ?
Reply:Weld a 5/8 bolt to each side of the frame, slide the wheels on and secure with a nylock nut.
Reply:Normally I would just use a 1/8" hole for a 1/8"  cotter pin. That is plenty to hold the wheel on. I would put the wheel on, washer and then cotter pin. That's all I have ever used on the many wheeled carts I have built.
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireIn the case of a 1/8" hole for a cotter pin in mild steel. Good solid punch mark, about 3000 rpm (assuming mild steel), liberal cutting oil, reasonable peck to keep the chips clear, should get your hole in about 10 seconds. One drill.
Reply:Pressure doesn't have much to do with it on a .125 hole. You need a good bit. Keep the harbor freight crap for wood and plastic.
Reply:Well I hope he's got it figured out by now.