Boat Trailer Cross Member Fabrication Question.

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The boat I recently purchased is on a trailer that is not original and needs some modifications to properly support the boat.The position of the current front roller needs to be corrected since it's not doing anything where it is. A roller support needs to be added and positioned back about 12" from it's current location so it's contacting the flatter section of the hull. The cross member I plan to build will use 1/4" thick material for both the frame hangers and the square tubing. A straight tube without the angles may cause the hull to hit the crossmember if the boat isn't coming up straight while loading. The hanger to crossmember connection will need a miter to match the angle of the frame member.The boat weight is about 3500 lbs Opinions and suggestions would be appreciatedHobart 180 Handler
Reply:Easy Loader is a popular trailer and I am sure one of their dealers can probably fix you up with what you need.These parts would be galvanized.
Reply:Originally Posted by jaysbermanEasy Loader is a popular trailer and I am sure one of their dealers can probably fix you up with what you need.These parts would be galvanized.
Reply:Cant you just use longer Angle with slots to raise the roller?Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:My first thought was that the rollers look bolted on.  Maybe the dealer has other sizes etc. that would make this a bolt on operation.  Can't hurt (much) to ask.It looks as if you could move the rear rollers outboard or inboard to make the boat tilt up or down a little.  Not sure what it would take but perhaps the trailer can be adjusted to fit (no fabrication required)?Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Cant you just use longer Angle with slots to raise the roller?
Reply:I'd make the crossmember as per your drawing and ditch the flat roller for one with a deep vee, once the keel enters the vee the boat goes on the trailer straight.REAL TRUCKS DON'T HAVE SPARK PLUGS
Reply:Your design looks like it would work ,I would not use that 3" straight piece I would angle it from the saddles to the center roller  . Also it look like some of your rollers are deterioating and leaving those black tracks , think about new one in the future.
Reply:I don't know about the placement of rollers on boats, but I think your material choice is thicker than needed. My guess is that that trailer is either 1/8" or possibly 3/16".  Otherwise your plan looks good to me. I have run into folks using trailers not made for their boat before tho and the biggest mistake they make is putting a longer boat on a trailer not made for it. This puts the rear roller too far forward. The rear of the rollers like yours need to be right at the rear of the boat so the transome carries the majority of the weight. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like yours is short. If so you could end up with a broken boat.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Thanks for the replies I will be changing all the  rollers in the spring, as well as that front roller, yes they are marking badly. The back set of rollers (not sure if they can be seen in the picture) are  only a few inches away from the transom so the placement is pretty close but I do need a bit more tongue weight so I can move the front post forward slightly to move the boat forward and compensate. I would have used 3/16 but I had 1/4" available. As far getting rid of the 3 " section, can you miter in two planes since the frame is angled in at that section?Hobart 180 Handler
Reply:Lol I have like the exact same repair to do. Keep us posted.
Reply:I personally would ditch the roller, buy 2 galvanized bolt on braces that would support a smaller bunk on each side of the boat for your support.  From my experience, these front supports are only for support.  A roller such as the one in your picture really don't help the boat roll on or off the trailer, it's only for support.  Your main rollers are the ones towards the rear of the trailer.  That's my 2 cents worth, and it's likely not worth that much.
Reply:Originally Posted by CartwrightAs far getting rid of the 3 " section, can you miter in two planes since the frame is angled in at that section?
Reply:Originally Posted by CDadI personally would ditch the roller, buy 2 galvanized bolt on braces that would support a smaller bunk on each side of the boat for your support.  From my experience, these front supports are only for support.  A roller such as the one in your picture really don't help the boat roll on or off the trailer, it's only for support.  Your main rollers are the ones towards the rear of the trailer.  That's my 2 cents worth, and it's likely not worth that much.