Needs some advice...

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Guys,I have been fabrications suspension components for Chevelles and corvettes over the last few years.  I recently purchased a grizzley vertical band saw that would make life much easier when cutting out some of the odd shaped parts that eventually get welded together.  However my dilema is I can't find a decent blade that will work!  They all seem to wear out and stop cutting.  I tried starting out real slow and allowing the blade to cool for a while then moderate pressure again for a few minutes on the first few parts and then gradually increasing the pressure.  I am assuming the blade I have chosen and I should also tell you that our maintenance guy had the blades at home from when his father passed away.  He gave me several madeup at different widths to try and then he said I could buy whatever ones worked.  Well none of them were stellar.  One seems to cut fairly well, but it was 1" and did not allow for very good turned cuts.  Help me out here with a brand and how many teeth etc.   Most of the stuff I cut is under 1/2" flat stock worst case would be a the very occasional 1/2" thick flat stock.  All pieces are C.R.S.I would like to get just a roll of it and then buy a unit that bonds the two together.  Any advice there would be good as well.As always, thanks for the help!  If you care to take a look at some of the stuff I make here is a link and glimps at what I do:www.azzatochips.comand here is a slideshow:Best Times with 434 Naturally Aspirated Vette60 - 1.261/8 -  6.37@ 107.25 MPH 1/4 - 10.08 & 134.9MPH1/4 - 9.60@144MPH
Reply:[QUOTE=ski_dwn_it;211374]Guys,I have been fabrications suspension components for Chevelles and corvettes over the last few years.  I recently purchased a grizzley vertical band saw that would make life much easier when cutting out some of the odd shaped parts that eventually get welded together.  However my dilema is I can't find a decent blade that will work!  They all seem to wear out and stop cutting.  I tried starting out real slow and allowing the blade to cool for a while then moderate pressure again for a few minutes on the first few parts and then gradually increasing the pressure.  I am assuming the blade I have chosen and I should also tell you that our maintenance guy had the blades at home from when his father passed away.  He gave me several madeup at different widths to try and then he said I could buy whatever ones worked.  Well none of them were stellar.  One seems to cut fairly well, but it was 1" and did not allow for very good turned cuts.  Help me out here with a brand and how many teeth etc.   Most of the stuff I cut is under 1/2" flat stock worst case would be a the very occasional 1/2" thick flat stock.  All pieces are C.R.S.I would like to get just a roll of it and then buy a unit that bonds the two together.  Any advice there would be good as well.************If one's determined to dry cut (assuming no stainless cutting), then an M2 or M42 blade will outlast the cheap blades by multiples. I do dry cutting on my vertical bandsaw--32" throat;squirting some cutting oil on thick cuts or SS. --The blade speed (in surface feet per minute) is critical to not burning up the blade.Adjust this to the slowest speed possible, for starters. My vertical has a variable speed drive.-Don't force the cut, let the saw do it's cutting with modest pressure, ALWAYS using a woodpusher stick to save those fingers.Blade Life?-Even in a high production cutting mode, in my shop (which is a small operation) I'll see several years or more between blade changes on my vertical; cutting a range of plate, thick and thin flat,aluminum stock, some stainless, plus steel pipe, shapes and structurals. This is done by:-using name brand, american made blades-Lenox, Sandvik, etc. -M2 or M 42 (cobalt varieties)[A carbon steel or hardback blade can last 30 minutes. M2 or M42 blades keep cutting even with broken or damaged teeth. They're very tough.]-either a 8-12 vari-tooth or 10-14 Vari-cut, variable rake bladewill work for you--depending on the MINIMUM thickness of material you will be cutting.-The blade manufacturer's have guidelines on which blade pitch to use, as well.-Before investing in a coil of blade stock and a blade welder--try out blades to see what works--for you.Blackbird
Reply:SFPM specs for various kinds of metal are available on a lot of websites devoted to machine work.  There's a wide variance in speeds.Last edited by farmersamm; 09-07-2008 at 06:59 PM.Reason: spelling"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Oh, and if you don't mind the mess, or can figure a way to control it, flood coolant goes a long way in preserving cutting tools."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
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Reply:Rule of thumb is 3 teeth in the material minimum, 6-12 teeth prefered.For 1/2 inch thick plate, that works out to a 6 TPI blade minimum, and 12-24 TPI prefered.  Lenox's guide suggests 6-12 TPI on 1/2 inch solid plate/bar/round.Too few teeth and you risk tooth strippage.  Too many teeth in the work piece and you risk strippage and gullet clogging (and it is slower on the cut speed too).The vari-pitch blades let you work on a range of thicknesses easier without having to change to a different pitch blade all the time.Also make sure you have your saw properly aligned.  And use the right tension on the blade.  To little tension, and the balde wanders and deflects and breaks.  To much tension and there is extra stress on the saw and the blade breaks.See www.lenoxtools.com and www.bandsawbladesdirect.com for more info and some product guides and choices.  Also Lenox tech support at 800-642-0010.Lenox Classic (M-42 bi-metal blade) is one general-purpose choice.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
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