Safari rack extending from a headache rack?

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Has anyone done this or have any ideas?  I have tool boxes on both sides of the truck but we need more room for luggage and equipment.  I was thinking of a safari rack cantilevered over the roof, but attached to the headache rack.  We use the truck to haul bee boxes and pull a trailer, so a trailer hitch cargo carrier is out.I thought about something like this, only longer with two supports instead of just one extending out over the cab.http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-...ier-69623.html  Here's the truck.  Any ideas? Attached Images
Reply:Your idea makes sense to me. You might have to have supports in front touching the roof though.
Reply:Crabo,Search for  "chase truck roof rack" in Google images, and you'll find a lot of ideas.Mike
Reply:I think it's a good idea and very do-able.  But if you use two receivers to attach it, I think you still need to have it anchored (temporarily) on the top of the cab somehow.  but i guess that depends on how much these bees weigh.  If you don't want to anchor it to the top of the cab with like some rubber bushings, I would use some heavy walled tubing for the main support beam, to avoid deflection.  Keep us posted, sounds like a cool project.Lincoln Weldanpower AC/DCLincoln LN-25Miller WC-115a Miller Spoolmatic 30aCheck out my youtube TV Channel
Reply:You won't be able to carry much weight on it unless you brace up the headache rack. A short gusset to the rear would work. I wouldn't put anything on the cab because the cab is on rubber mounts and the bed is solid to the frame so they will move different and you will have problems. Even if it just sets there on rubber the rubbing and squeaking would drive you crazy. How much more room do you need? Looks like some more room for another box under the bed.
Reply:I already added a 5 foot long box on the other side.  There would only be room to add one box about the size of a single in the original picture.I am planning on putting luggage on the rack which could add up to 250 pounds pretty easy.  Here is one idea that I had using expanded metal on the sides and floor. Attached ImagesLast edited by Crabo; 08-09-2013 at 08:50 AM.
Reply:I sketched what I would do in your circumstances.  The flat strip straps will keep the bed of the rack from deflecting as much.  They'll take a hell of a load in tension; so they don't need to be very thick; 1/8" or 3/16" thick would do.  You'll also need something similar on the vertical sides of the headache rack to keep it from deflecting forward.  Some large(not necessarily thick) gussets where the rack attaches to the truck bed should suffice.  I'd also mount a rubber bump stop or two under the leading edge of the rack in case a heavy load and rough road cause it to bounce and touch down on the cab of the truck. Attached ImagesBenson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:I'd probably see if triangulated tube gussets going down would work instead of anything going up even higher.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Here's a few picts of our old work truck that had some what a similar idea. We had a full rack vs just a headache rack, but if with a bit of work I'm sure you could work out something. I wish I'd thought to get some better side on picts before we sold the truck two years ago..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I have to make sure I don't put anything on the back side of the rack.  As far as going up taller, it wouldn't hurt a thing.  If all goes as planned, we will start moving the bees by semi and this truck will just be used for pulling the swinger and trailer, and carrying boxes to the different bee yards.  But it will have to go between Texas and North Dakota a couple of times a year. Attached Images
Reply:Along with the over the cab rack concept comes the slight chance of getting noise from wind harmonics. At certain speeds air will pile up on square tube (even round) and go over, under, over under at some frequency that will vibrate the cab roof. Especially when the overhead piece is low and close to the cab roof. Nothing worse than getting to your favorite running speed and having this low rumbling or groan sound drive you nuts. Just a thought. What ever you do, do it with the thought you may have to add deflectors or some slight design mod to alleviate the noise."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Here's one I built about 7 years ago for our chase trucks for Off-road racing. We used it on this F-150 and two different Superduty trucks. I designed it to hold a 120qt ice chest, Honda EU3000 gen, luggage/racing gear for 4 people, Driving lights, GPS antenna, and race radio antenna. It freed up the cab and the bed space to hold all of our fuel, tools, tires, and chase (parts) boxes full of trophy truck parts.It worked great and we used it everywhere in Baja from full peninsula runs (Ensanada to La Paz and Ensanada to Cabo) to local races in the states. The frame was made from 1.75" x .090" mild steel and expanded metal for the deck. I used 2"x.250 Angle for the "feet" that bolted through the top of the bed rails.If/when I build another one I will mount it to the floor of the bed utilizing the bed bolts for extra support. One of our Superdutys suffered some damage to the bed rails as it wasn't the best way to mount it but I built this the night before we left for the Baja 1000...I'm lucky we had one at all!  http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:I know this is not drawn to scale, but how about this idea?  It would be bolted into place on the existing rack in case I wanted to take it off when not in use.3 or 4 gussets to hold the weight, and 3 or bolts, both top and bottom to hold it in place on the rack.  The back flat piece would be touching the verticles of the existing rack with bolts to hold it solid.The rack would be the width of the truck cab, with the back piece as wide as needed to bolt up.  I might have to put a small cow catcher to cut the wind as Sandy suggests may be needed.The truck isn't here right now so I can't get any dimensions. Attached Images
Reply:I know a bee guy that just took them off a couple of his trucks because the orchardists didn't like how the racks were tearing branches off the trees. He said the branches would stick between the rack and the cab instead of bending out of the way.I have no idea if that would apply to where you haul or not, but thought I'd throw it out there in case it might be helpful.Mr. HE
Reply:Where we keep the bees there are no trees to hang up.  We don't have them in orchards, but in farmland with lots of sweet clover, canola, sunflowers, ect. Attached Images
Reply:I and a best friend drove a 2 ton GMC from Stockton Calif to St Salk Marie Minnesota.  with a full load of bees in there hives.  It took a week driving at night only, so the bees could get out and forage on the way. I learned an awful lot in one week.   Mac
Reply:The biggest issue I see with your design is that you are cantilevering a weight off the existing rack. The leverage will really work on the headache rack and the connection points, especially over rough terrain. One option might be to tie back the rack with cables, straps or chains, but that only take care of any forward forces. Chances are those would be the big ones anyways. When you need to unload the boxes, you could drop the straps and reattach them later after unloading. At least that way the cables or straps take up the tension rather than simply the welded  connection of the headache rack to the body..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThe biggest issue I see with your design is that you are cantilevering a weight off the existing rack. The leverage will really work on the headache rack and the connection points, especially over rough terrain. One option might be to tie back the rack with cables, straps or chains, but that only take care of any forward forces. Chances are those would be the big ones anyways. When you need to unload the boxes, you could drop the straps and reattach them later after unloading. At least that way the cables or straps take up the tension rather than simply the welded  connection of the headache rack to the body.
Reply:Originally Posted by CraboWhere we keep the bees there are no trees to hang up.  We don't have them in orchards, but in farmland with lots of sweet clover, canola, sunflowers, ect.