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Tig Joining Copper to Stainless

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:48:19 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I am a novice tig welder.  I am fabricating a part the requires joining a copper pipe to a stainless still fitting.  It is a real mess, see the pictures.  Any guidance would be appreciated.  I am using 1/16 silicon bronze rod with 1/16 tungsten, argon gas and about 70 amps.  The bronze just keeps balling up and the stainless gets / stays hotter than the copper so the bronze that does flow just climbs up the stainless.  I am trying to get a clean joint that I can file level with the copper and polish. Thanks, AndyLast edited by MuddyCrick; 11-07-2014 at 07:27 PM.
Reply:Well you probably need about 160amps for the copper and only about 85 for the stainless, and 45amps would melt 1/16 si bronze, so I would say you're in a pickle with novice experience right from jump street. What are the part thicknesses so im not just guessing. I'm just going off what I see.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:I played with a little copper Tig welding. I was shocked how many amps it takes.Thought never crossed my mind to weld stainless to copper. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPI played with a little copper Tig welding. I was shocked how many amps it takes.Thought never crossed my mind to weld stainless to copper.
Reply:I think that was only 1/8” wall pipe. I don't remember how many amps it took.Here is a 1/4” fillet weld. Once the plate gets hot, you really have to back off the pedal. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Yeah cep copper is crazy, I love it tho. I have to make it a point to play with it more. I know ztfab was doing a bunch of it for a while making some light sconces. I wish I got big jobs like that to dial everything in, but I only get to F with it once in a blue moon. Always love dialing in and learning new techniques.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:If you did much copper work, that would be a good excuse to buy a Dynasty 700! Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by MuddyCrickI am a novice tig welder.  I am fabricating a part the requires joining a copper pipe to a stainless still fitting.  It is a real mess, see the pictures.  Any guidance would be appreciated.  I am using 1/16 silicon bronze rod with 1/16 tungsten, argon gas and about 70 amps.  The bronze just keeps balling up and the stainless gets / stays hotter than the copper so the bronze that does flow just climbs up the stainless.  I am trying to get a clean joint that I can file level with the copper and polish. Thanks, Andy
Reply:The stainless is .065, the copper is .058
Reply:The stainless steel is .065, the copper is .058
Reply:I would be inclined to use some silver-bearing solder and good flux on that copper/stainless joint.  Stainless is tough to solder, so it will take practice.Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig  Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:I have very little experience with silicon bronze but I have found that high frequency pulsing helps. If your machine has that feature try and use it.I would also preheat the copper pipe.
Reply:Originally Posted by DougAustinTXI would be inclined to use some silver-bearing solder and good flux on that copper/stainless joint.  Stainless is tough to solder, so it will take practice.
Reply:Hello.  I have welded my fair share of stainless to copper in the breweries.  I used 309 wire, 1/8 2% thoriated tungsten. Make sure you sharpen the tungsten to at least a 3 to 1 taper ie. Same as a pencil. I do not preheat the copper. I just control my heat at the machine.  Start at high amps......turn down the amps as the material heats up.  Biggest trick is to make sure the stainless cools down at the same rate as the the copper, or the stainless will crack......the copper acts as a huge heat sink.  Having said all this, I have not done butt welds with SS to copper, only socket welds, or stub in's.  Good luck!
Reply:Originally Posted by Skull1Hello.  I have welded my fair share of stainless to copper in the breweries.  I used 309 wire, 1/8 2% thoriated tungsten. Make sure you sharpen the tungsten to at least a 3 to 1 taper ie. Same as a pencil. I do not preheat the copper. I just control my heat at the machine.  Start at high amps......turn down the amps as the material heats up.  Biggest trick is to make sure the stainless cools down at the same rate as the the copper, or the stainless will crack......the copper acts as a huge heat sink.  Having said all this, I have not done butt welds with SS to copper, only socket welds, or stub in's.  Good luck!
Reply:Thanks for the reply,  I have a miller 250, unfortunately it does not have the pulsing.  I will look into that.  I have seen a similar suggestion elsewhere about using pulsing to weld copper.
Reply:Thanks - This a very good way to make this joint.  I have actually been using silver with a torch until now.  My goal trying the tig is to better control the filler material, make very clean, almost invisible joints, after grinding and polishing.  Silver "bleeds" all over the surface following the heat, making for lots of clean-up and can be a bit expensive in the right formula for copper to silver.  I also had some problems when I got to the stage of pressure testing my joints, I kept finding leaks, I found it hard to fix the leaks once the solder had already been cooled for a couple of days, it was hard to get flux to where I needed the silver to flow to fill the hole.
Reply:MuddyCrick,Did you ever get this figured out?Random question. I've never welded copper to ss. I'll be doing something similar as Muddy, welding thin wall copper plumbers tubing to thin wall (.125) ss.What fillers can be used? I've read copper, silicon bronze, nickel all have been used.Thanks
Reply:@ Muddy - lots of way to slay this dragon. More to consider, http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...light=everdure"Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:I thought they were immiscible liquids
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